NTX5467

In the later '60s and earlier '70s, there were several aftermarket (i.e., not factory production) devices which allegedly kept the vehicle they were installed on (usually near the rear end) from being so prone to spin out. I remember seeing a video presentation at a new car show on one of them. The device that was in the video was a metal tube (with mounting lugs) that had a metal weight inside of the tube, with springs on each end to stabilize it, with the tube otherwise filled with oil. Kind of worked on the same principle as the clamp on balance rings you put on the inside of the wheels to balance them as they rolled down the road. All of the endorsements in the sales lit for the device included police departments, school systems, and "satisfied customers". It could also have had some car rental companies in the list too, but I don't specifically recall that. The only other steering device I remember from the old J C Whitney catalog would be what is now called a "steering damper" and is used on many 4wd and European vehicles, plus the '73 Monte Carlo and similar cars. Just a shock absorber mounted to the steering linkage and the front frame section to dampen wheel shimmy. In those earlier times, there were lots of automotive add-on gadgets that had some big promises but usually only transfered money from the purchaser to the seller. "People" said they worked and no one really said they didn't. Buyer beware. If these two items I've mentioned don't describe what y'all are talking about, please advise. Enjoy! NTX5467

Be fully aware that there are two DIFFERENT sized ring gear rear axles that have 10 bolts holding the rear cover on. When people usually refer to "10 bolt" GM rear axles, they normally are referring to the common Chevy 10 bolt with the 8.5" diameter ring gear. The rear cover for that axle is completely round. GM also has another "10 bolt" rear axle that went in a multitude of B/C cars in the later '70s to middle '80s, plus S-10 light trucks, Camaros/Firebirds, and earlier '70 lower powered 6 cylinder Chevy Nova-type cars. The rear cover on that axle is more squared than rounded. This is the 7.5" diameter ring gear rear axle. Very few if any parts interchange between them too. In the earlier '70s and prior, there were also "BOP" axles with unique Pontiac and Olds rear axles in the mix. Visible differences in the rear covers of these axles too. 2.56 gear ratios typically were replaced by 2.41 gear ratios after about '79 or so. It's one of those deals where you have to know what you have instead of just guessing. Enjoy! NTX5467

I concur with John, that it might be something other than the ring gear/pinion set. Better get it to a shop and torn down before anyone starts jumping to conclusions or makes speculations. Might even be a parking brake mechanism that has self-destructed in one of the rear brakes. Could be a one of the pinion or side gears inside the differential case has a problem. If it's the normal Chevy 10 bolt rear axle, the part number in the GM Parts database will probably be discontinued, but there is a listing for a 2.56 ratio in the GMPerformance Parts catalog that still works. Some of that stuff is also available aftermarket through places like www.ringpinion.com (Randy's Ring & Pinion), but you should be able to get the stuff locally too. When I recently had the rear axle on my '77 Camaro rebuilt (due to noise concerns), this time it took two new axle shafts (one previously replaced with the bearing and seal about 3 yrs ago with a good, used shaft) and all of the bearings. The gear set was still in good shape after over 550,000 miles so I somewhat doubt you would need a ring & pinion gear set due to wear concerns. Getting an axle out of the salvage yard will not be "cheap" either, plus you could be getting something not that much better than what you have PLUS have to swap your (perhaps in better shape) stuff onto the replacement rear axle assy. All things considered, don't try to patch it up just to get by, do it right so you won't have to worry about it again. Enjoy! NTX5467

Other than the outer "Collector Edition" ornamentation, they also had one of the first really fancy owner's manual portfolios, including a key chain that basically had the Collector Edition center from the hood ornament with a key chain chain attached. Pretty dang fancy, especially for back then. As for an engine swap, anything in the later model Olds V-8 engine family should bolt in. Nothing wrong with the 307 other than a distinct lack of horsepower compared to earlier vehicles, but they also got better fuel economy on the highway than similar Chevy 305s did (but Olds V-8s usually would do that anyway). Be cognizant that any engine swap that "looks" like a swap will probably come under tighter scrutiny from the emissions people when licensing/inspection time might come, so make sure that stuff is as it should be. You could do a lot worse than just fix what you have! The car might not be "collectible" as such, but if it's kept nice it will always be worth more than if it's trashed. Most of those cars were "not respected" as they aged and changed hands so the number remaining is probably much less than might be suspected. Those Buicks were usually trimmed out very nicely inside anyway so keeping it nice and in good shape can be a plus. Enjoy! NTX5467

Unhook it at the trans end (where it is held onto the case by one small bolt) and see if you can free it up that way by pulling on it just as you did on the other end. Before you do that, it might be advisable to put the car on a lift and change the trans fluid and filer (as when you drop the pan to check for binding in the linkage inside the pan, you'll be there anyway) plus some fluid might geyser out of the hole in the case when the cable is removed if you don't drain the fluid first. Unhooking it down there will let the trans think everything's at idle again so you'll have to manually do all shift points, probably, that aren't taken care of by the vacuum modulator valve. It would also be advisable to get a new cable from somewhere too. Enjoy! NTX5467

Most all of the GM instrument clusters by that time were electronic. The easiest way to determine which it is is to look on the left hand side of the transmission tailshaft housing. If a normal speedometer cable casing is attached, it's the older style "analog" setup. If it has wires from a speed sensor instead, it will be "electronic". In the electronic clusters, the odometer is run by an electrical stepper motor. The motor could have failed or the wiring that runs it could have a problem. If the speed sensor at the trans had failed, it would cause the speed signal to the ECM to not happen and would set a code in the computer and turn on the Check Engine Light. These stepper motors might be available in the specialized AC-Delco service part of things (a completely separate part from normal Delco replacement parts at the auto supplies or dealerships) so they could be available to a speedo shop that does those things. I suspect there might still be some in the larger metro areas, though. Typically, there are no "user serviceable" items in those clusters. At the dealership level, we would send them to an authorized AC-Delco service center for exchange. If there's one near you, you might take the vehicle to them or ship the cluster to them. Usually, their turn-around time is pretty quick. You might contact your local Buick dealer to see where they would send it and what pricing might apply (for the exchange cluster and R&R labor). NTX5467

Other than taking the door panel off, you might get a GM service manual to see where that circuit originates and such. Might just be a ground issue from a loose wire or one that has come unplugged inside the door. Not sure how the panel comes off. NTX5467

If in fact, the EGR has a bit of carbon where the plunger for the valve seats in the intake manifold, also make sure that the seating area hasn't degraded. Some of those Olds V-8s with aluminum manifolds were also known to have some problems in other areas too. It might also have a valve that's just starting to "burn" too, causing a slight miss that is only felt at idle too. If the Check Enging Light is on, pull the codes and go from there. If the vacuum line is part of the a/c vacuum harness or another non-engine-related vacuum harness, it will not be listed on the emissions decal's vacuum hose diagram. These cars were also known to have problems with the Canister Control Valve, which controlled when the charcoal canister purged and how much. It's a several tiered round valve that will be suspended by the vacuum lines it attaches to near the front of the engine. If raw gas is in any of the vacuum lines, the valve is bad. When it completely fails, it will "fog mosquitoes" out the tailpipe when everything else is operating as designed. A small valve that can make a huge difference in what comes out the tail pipe. Those cars with the Olds 307s were also known to have clogged dual bed catalytic converter problems back then. Now, an aftermarket converter would probably be a good emissions legal fix. Enjoy! NTX5467

With no instructions in the owners manual, it could well require the use of the GM Tech2 scanner to get everything programmed. The GM Tech2 scanner is a specialized computerized diagnostic tool that few non-dealership shops have and I highly suspect the non-GM-supplied scanners a private shop might have will not be able to talk to the GM computer to do this programming function. When all else fails, call the dealer. NTX5467

Some can be programmed with a simple procedure and others require the use of the GM Tech2 scan tool. Also, have ALL of the remotes you have for that car (which are operational) present when the reprogramming procedure is done as only the remotes the system is programmed to recognize at that time will work. The basic procedure starts with clearing the Remote Keyless Entry computer of all previous transmitter recognition codes. Then, the new transmitters can be programmed to be recognized by the vehicle computer. Probably up to about four remotes can be programmed for each vehicle. If the procedure can be done easily, it will be in the owner's manual, but if it requires the scan tool, you will have to have the dealer do it--provided the vehicle has the FACTORY system installed on it and it is still intact. Only GM remotes will work with GM systems on GM vehicles. Code Alarm might well have built the GM system, for example, but the Code Alarm remotes will not work with the factory GM system and only with systems sold as Code Alarm brand systems. Any time a remote is replaced, the vehicle will have to recognize it before it will work. Same with transponder ignition keys (stamped "PK3" near the rubber head of the key) too. NTX5467

Back then, the fenders might work for a couple of model years, but the chrome and garnish trim might change yearly. It would be unusual for the grilles to go more than one model year back then, but they could all go in the same place. Sometimes, what looks like it would be the same are different, too. The "wheelbase" spec is just that, distance between the centerlines of the front and rear wheels. Typically, a longer wheelbase car back then would have more rear seat leg room while the front seat room remained constant. One of the best examples of that would be the Chrysler C-bodies from the later '60s when the full size Plymouth Fury had a 119" wheelbase, the Dodge Polara/Monaco had a 122" wheelbase, and the Chryslers had 124" wheelbase. As the wheelbase increased, so did the rear seat leg room. GM and Ford did similar things too. Probably one of the best resources would be an old Chilton Crash Parts Manual. They were printed to include several years of cars in one edition. Manufacturer part numbers and such too for easy interchange investigations. Otherwise, the Hollander Manual that the salvage yards use would have this information too. Do be advised that the Hollander listings mean the part will bolt up and work, but could require some modifications regarding chrome trim and such so you can use the different year model part on your vehicle (with respect to body parts). Happy hunting! NTX5467

Any diagram you find in an aftermarket service book will probably be "representative" and not entirely accurate for your particular vehicle. GM stopped putting emissions vacuum diagrams in their service manuals in the later '70s so they could do updates without having to issue revisions for the service manuals. That leaves the underhood emissions decal as the best and most accurate source of information, unfortunately. It might be possible to still get one from GM Parts, but I'm not sure about that. If it's discontinued AND you can find a GM Parts department that has a paper catalog from back then to find the original part number for the decal (which also might be on the decal somewhere too), they can probably (or used to be able to) call GM ParTech and have them pull a print of the decal and fax it to the dealership. The fax will only be in black and white whereas the decal was in color. The decal will also detail what emission controls are on the vehicle too, with abbreviations up in one corner of the decal. Once you decode the abbreviations and identify the components of those various subsystems, it might make more sense. It seemed that those engines had more vacuum lines than any other GM engine back then--much less Ford V-8s. Back then, most of the modulation of the systems was controlled by ThermoVacuumSwitches with about the only electrical signals to the ECM being for heat, oil pressure, exhaust oxygen content, and engine speed. Typically, the tvs switches had GM part numbers cast or stamped into them and were color coded (which helps greatly). There's also an AC-Delco Emissions Parts Book that details what particular items are on each year of GM vehicle/engine combination back then--plus pictures (another great place to look, but still no vacuum hose maps). The computer systems for the engines were much less sophisticated than they are now also. You might also get a reputable shop to pull the codes and check them against the codes for that PARTICULAR YEAR of GM codes (back then, codes could change from year to year as to what they meant). That might be a good place to start! Those were good, solid cars back then. Hope this helps. NTX5467

I'd forgotten about the Teves system on those cars. It seemed like GM was playing musical chairs with which ABS system went on which car back then. It's one thing to spread the business around, but it didn't help too much on the repair side of things. The ABS module for current GM light trucks is about $800.00. When it goes out, the complaint is a "running motor under the vehicle" or similar and the ABS light being on. They have a neat "self-bleed" mode that is activated with the GM Tech2 scan tool. Pretty neat and quick. Trying to manual bleed the brake system on these light truck vehicles never seems to get the pedal to feel right, but it acts right when you drive it (as we found out after a couple of gallons of brake fluid). Any time you deal with an ABS system, you need to know the exact model year (from the VIN and not the safety inspection sticker or build date) and model of the vehicle. The model of the vehicle for the particular brake system it has and the model year as there were updated versions each year too. Probably the worst brake system we had to deal with is the older PowerMaster system on the middle '80s GM full size wagons. It had some unique (i.e., wierd!) operating characteristics (as in partially emptying the brake fluid from the master cylinder during operation) too. The principle for a small, self-contained booster that didn't require engine power to run is good, but it just didn't work out back then. This was during the time that full size GM wagons had the "low power" Olds 307 V-8 that probably didn't have enough vacuum to run the brake system, not to mention the Turbo cars too. While they were in production, we could get them new. "New" dried up and then it was strictly "reman" from GM. Then when that deal dried up, it was necessary to call some lawyer's office to get one ordered. Then that stopped too. Salvage yards were empty by that time too. Enjoy! NTX5467

The Delco TheftLock radios will "lock" each time they are unhooked from battery power. There used to be appropriate codes for each radio model in the GM Service Manuals, but the dealer typically has to call a particular tech assistance number to get the code for the particular radio. When that code is entered, the radio will work normally again. You can also program a code of your own choosing, but very few people do. That operation should also be covered in the appropriate GM Service Manual. In the future, if you have to unhook the battery, you can get another battery and jumper the battery cables so power is uninterrupted to the system. A motorcycle battery might work too. It might be a "pain" to have to go to the dealer to get the radio unlocked, but it also proves how much trouble it would be for a thief too, so things are operating as designed. You might also need to take proof of ownership of the vehicle with you should the dealership people request documentation of your ownership. Enjoy! NTX5467

During that general production time frame, the wheel speed sensors for the anti-lock brakes were an integral part of the wheel bearing hub assemblies. There is a very close spatial relationship between the magnet and the tone wheel in the hub from which the wheel speed sensor derives the wheel speed signal that goes to the anti-lock brake computer. What might also be investigated is to make sure the wiring connections from the sensors to the body wiring harness are clean and make solid contact. Similarly, the condition of the wires themselves could be an issue. Hopefully, the mechanic pulled the codes from the brake system computer to deterimine the light was on due to codes relating to wheel speed sensors and didn't just guess. I know that we sell some of these every so often, but usually just one at a time. Typically these might be dealer-only items, but I saw in GM High Tech Peformance magazine where they got some for a Firebird at a local auto supply, made by TRW. I suspect they also might be available from NAPA too. If the brake computer does not receive wheel speed signals from the individual wheels, it will prevent the anti-lock from working plus probably the Traction Control might not work either as they work from the same sensors. Your mechanic might be reputable, but my main concern would be that a full and thorough diagnosis was performed to determine that the wheel speed sensor was what was setting the paraticular code instead of just guessing. Enjoy! NTX5467

I mentioned the S-10 deal as that would generate rear disc brakes for an 8.5" rear axle that would go in the same place as a 7.5" rear axle. Similarly, the rear disc brakes on the ImpalaSS/Caprice cars are bolt-on situations for other 8.5" rear axles unlike the earlier rear disc brakes on the '79-'81 Firebirds which needed a special rear axle (with cast in caliper mounts) for the rear disc brake setup. In this case, all of these comments would apply specifically to Chevrolet rear axles. NTX5467

Thanks for your additional comments, Paul. I will strongly concur that "trouble-free" has many different interpretations just as "defect" does. When reading many of the old Consumer Reports car tests, anything that wasn't perfect was "defective", yet to me "defective" means that something broke because it wasn't manufactured as it should have been, for example a weatherstip isn't defective it it lets air by due to it being positioning incorrectly but it would be defective if it deteriorated much faster than normal. Over the years, we've been led to believe that imports were the best things around. A close friend bought a new '82 Toyota Celica GT. A pretty neat car, but as time wore on it was not quite to the level of perfection in design I had been led to suspect it was. There were some service issues plus some others. When he got ready to sell it about 2 years later, he priced it about $500.00 less than others in the Auto Trader and got one call in 6 weeks of running it. He contacted the other guys that had the same cars in there and their reports were similar. Here was the Motor Trend Import Car of the Year (for its model year) and no one wanted a good, used one? That was a little suspect in itself. He finally traded it for an Alfa GTV6 coupe. The imports have some great engineering in them, but to get the performance out of their engines it has to be that way. Oil leaks, or lack thereof, has more do do with the type of gaskets/seals than anything else. Admittedly, American manufactuers did not move to better gasketing until they had to. Also, when Chevy started painting their engines black in the '80s, out oil leak complaints went down sharply at the dealership level. When we got the Chevy Nova (which was a Corolla with "home market" sheet metal), we found out some things that further proved the imports had problems too. Brake pads typically did not last past 20,000 miles and clutch cables would break out the firewall where they passed through it. Again, not what you would expect. The other situation I feel sometimes kicks in with the imports it the "mystique" in owning one, especially a luxury make. Everyone had their own preferences, which I certainly respect, but I get the feeling that one reason a person buys a high level import probably has more to do with how it looks in the parking lot or driveway (and what it "means") than for the superior engineering or bells and whistles it might have. Such desiresability usually leads to higher lease residuals so they are cheaper to own. Those same owners never let it get out of warranty so they don't see all of the things the second or third owners do. Plus, if you ask them if they have bought a "good car" the answer probably will be "Yes" as they don't mention their service problems or whatever. Just my observations and suspicions. Currently, I have a '77 Chevy Camaro Type LT (that I bought new) with the original 305 V-8. Along about 240,000 miles the Turbo350 decided it liked to drive in 2nd gear after it had been driven for about an hour. It was replaced with a NOS Turbo350 still in the crate for a '81 Z-28. The 305 still has the same head gaskets and oil pan gasket that it came with. At 92,000 miles, I put a Cloyes Plus roller chain in it when the cam was slightly upgraded along with a 4bbl setup. Now, it just passsed 572,000 miles and is still ticking along. I did a mileage check the other night and it still hit 22mpg on the freeway route I took at "highway speeds" just as it did when new with the 2bbl. I did have to replace the rear axles and differential bearings recently too. Decent maintenance but certainly not the 3000 mile oil change sort of thing.Current Granted, we normally don't keep our domestic vehicles for this total mileage so we don't know what they might be capable of. I do get amused when oriental import brand owners brag about their car lasting over 100,000 miles with no trouble. Typically, when we think of ultra high mileage vehicles, we think of Mercedes and such. Since we've had Buicks in our dealership, we very seldom see one with any internal engine problems. One that came in with a knock still had the production black engine color oil filter on it at something like 50,000 miles. Northstars, with all of their complexity, don't break nearly as often as you might expect. Every brand of vehicle will have their quirks and idiosyncracies and things which normally have problems. These things also seem to be somewhat cyclical too. Having been around the business for a looong time, each manufactuer's products will have their strong and weak points. In the '80s, a weak point of import vehicles was paint and trim. A friend that was a Mercedes parts manager for many years related about how Mercedes would not upgrade the air conditioning on their cars in the '80s (probably where the tinted window craze came from?) until their next redesign. In short, if there was not some activity with parts failures and such on the import vehicles, there would not be any need to have a parts and service department in those dealerships. If they don't make money on parts, it has to be on service and maintenance items. No rocket science there. One way or another, there will be some costs to vehicle ownership. How each of us decide to allocate those costs in time and money are up to each of us. Enjoy! NTX5467

Paul, I completely understand your orientation, but those days are not what they used to be, especially in the metro areas. Just as finding a Buick dealership that sells just Buicks is the exception instead of the norm. Most dealerships have specified test drive routes whether the salesman goes along or not. Most times, the salesperson must drive the vehicle from the lot and then switch and let the potential customer drive on the way back. There are valid reasons for this plus some insurance considerations too. Just as with any other retail situation, the longer a salesperson spends with a customer the more desire there is for that customer to spend some money. A nice salesperson that gives everyone demo drives and makes no sales in the process is not making themselves or the dealership any money. Similarly, if you walked in and found the car you wanted and it was invoiced to that particular dealership (as evidenced on the window sticker) yet it had about 100 miles on it, the shopper might well suspect there was something wrong with it and you probably would too, hence lost sales for the dealership and the sales people. Even if that salesperson is paid a straight salary with no commission, there is still a certain level of productivity that must be obtained by the salesperson. Just like any other retail/wholesale sales situation. It is not unusual for a customer to take a vehicle overnight to show their spouse, but for that to happen there is a pretty sure idea that a sale of some kind will be made, whether with that particular car or another one. For all of this to happen, the potential customer will first have to discuss many things with the salesperson as the salesperson basically builds a database on the potential customer. In some cases, the sales trainers now want the salesperson to know almost as much about the customer as their own mother does. This way, the salesperson will have something to engage the customer in conversation with when they later see them. Extended tests drives of about 30 minutes are not unheard of either, but again, for there to be a deviation from the established test drive route, the potential customer will either have to have had prior sales experience at the particular dealership (i.e., established customer) or it be a "lead pipe cinch" that they will purchase the vehicle they are driving, especially if the sales person does not go along. The reason for doing the rental car deal is to get the vehicle in actual use situations away from the "pressure" of the dealership. You can better see how it looks in the driveway after it isn't as glossy as it was at the dealership. You can see if all your luggage will fit in the trunk too, for example. The rental car, with up to about 20,000 miles on it can also give you an idea of durability after the new wears off. And there's not a salesperson looking on waiting for you to make a decision either. All the car rental people want to happen is for you to bring their car back in the same condition as when you left with it (including a full tank of gas). To me, it would be a lot better to discover that a car you were considering just doesn't fit what you need before the contract is signed than afterward. You might also determine that some option upgrades are desireable too, whether in sound systems or engine options, for example. I mentioned the National Emerald Isle deal as it has flexibility that isn't available from other rental companies. This is important as they rent a "class" of car and not a specific model of car. That's why reconnaissance to see what's in the local fleet is necessary. I also might recommend the national car rental chains over local rental car entities too. End result it to make an informed decision on the purchase. The additional "seat time" in the rental car can be worth more than time spent with sales literature and buyers handbooks. Enjoy! NTX5467

Granted, we could fuel this debate of which is best for ages. Hondas, Toyota, and such may well be more trouble-free, but they certainly are NOT maintenance free. Back when Toyota had their "Cheap To Keep" deal going in the middle 1980s, I picked up one of their maintenance schedules with prices by them. It looked very nice and accurate. Those first years with free checks and inspections were good, but by the third year the price to start getting serious on the maintenance items drove the price of maitenance up greatly. They also figured a new battery in the 3rd year as they also figured in changing rear axle lube too, not bad and as I said, pretty accurate. If you go by 100,000 mile durability standards, everything made today will match that with no problem, but when you get out of the warranty period, the cost of repair of the beloved "high durability" makes people pay a premium to own (not only in initial price but also in normal maintenance issues) will be a good deal higher than that of a domestic make. If something unordinary breaks, it'll cost a good deal just for the parts. In those earlier days of the 1980s, it was clear that the best car to own for the long run was an rear wheel drive American car. The trim and paint certainly held up much better than any import back then and I have observed the same to be true now. If everyone who paid high labor costs for their imports knew how much time it really took to repair their cars, they might think twice, but as long as everything's still in warranty and such, then they don't have to worry about that. I'd rather have a $20,000 Impala over a $20,000 Camry any day of the week. More car for the money (features and size) and a car that feels more substantial to me (the orientals still haven't learned how to build a decent sun visor yet). Just my preference. I respect yours too. Everything has a price, whether it's a "buy-in" price for buying a maintenance intensive import (according to the factory maintenance schedule) or a domestic that is less money and with equal of greater reliability and lesser maintenance (but not NO maintenance) and will easily last well past 200,000+miles in the process. I'll take that extra time I don't need to spend at the dealership getting an import maintenanced by the book and do something else. Enjoy! NTX5467

I looked in the GM Parts database this afternoon and highly suspect you have an electronic QJet. That means it would have a Throttle Position sensor over near the accel pump (on the throttle cable side) with a 3-wire connector. Also some wires that go into the top of the carb that run the mixture control solenoid. Possibly another set of wires that go to a valve that makes the accel pump "dual stage" depending on operating conditions plus a possible set of wires for an aneroid compensator mechanism. That does not include the wire to the electric choke housing. On the QJet, what might appear to be "chokes" on the secondary side is actually the secondary air valve itself. They are adjusted with a small set screw and tension screw on the passenger side of the carb, near the end of the shaft they are mounted on. Even though there is spring tension that the air flow must work against for them to open, the rate of opening is controlled by the choke vaccum pulloff with a drilled restriction on the vacuum hose connection. It will keep them from opening too quickly, basically. Between the two air valves is a metering rod hanger that holds the metering rods for the secondary system. Under the hanger is a thin plastic washser-type cam that raises the rod hanger as the secondary air valves open. That plastic cam can wear and will not raise the secondary rods for the richer mixture required with the extra air. That can cause a lean condition too, somewhat common. Only thing is that this cam and attaching hardware are not listed in all of the parts lists for QJets in the GM Parts listings. If you find one, though, they usually fit "everything". As you manually open the secondary air valve with your finger pressure on the back of the air valves, the metering rod hanger should significantly move upward--if not, the cam is worn and needs replacing. So, several things to check for. The secondary metering rod cam. The linkage issues you have mentioned (I'm not sure why any of the stuff on the outside of the carb would be riveted together as they are all designed to be replaced and usually have screws holding them together--except for the choke coil to the carb body as there is an adjustment there that they don't desire to be changed). Might be a throttle position sensor that doesn't tell the computer you want to accelerate quickly. Might be an accelerator pump issue, but it that was an issue you'd get a backfire "pop" on sudden acceleration from a lean mixture. If you pull the top off of the carb and see little circles of red rubber-type material in the float bowl, the mixture control solenoid has failed. As previously mentioned, it will act the same as if the power valve has stuck in the full economy position, if that's where it defaulted to, but when they fail driveability typically deteriorates too. What we found out on a Chevy pickup of the general vintage as your Buick was that when the knock sensor wire grounds out, it basically cuts the advance in the distributor to zilch. That particular truck would not pull itself up hills without downshifing few gears, but when the wire was replaced, it would light the tires. Back then also, there was also a deal that GM Engineering and Tech Assistance came up with that was called a "vacuum trap". On many of the middle '80s light trucks with 305s, after a while they would get "doggy" and lacked power. These vehicles typically used full manifold vacuum to run the vacuum advance instead of the more common ported vacuum. So, you're sitting at a red light in gear and probably about 15" of vacuum. When the light turns green you throttle into it and the vacuum drops to about 10" or so. When the vaccum drops, the vacuum advance in the distributor went away too, leaving the engine to rely on the mechanical advance to work (which usually was set up to be very slow in advancing). Result, one big lack of power. The Vacuum Trap was basically a deal with two vacuum delay valves (plumbed in parallel) turned around backwards so that when the manifold vacuum dropped, the vacuum advance unit stayed charged with what it had had previously. Result, the vacuum advance kept the timing advanced until the rpm came up enough for the mechanical advance to kick in. This one deal made a world of difference in how those trucks drove and acted. We put them on most everything that had a poor acceleration/no power complaint, but on others they did not work as they did on the light trucks. They have since been discontinued but could be built with some vacuum hose and plastic tees, plus some valves scrounged from the salvage yard. I don't perceive your problem is anything really major but could just be some "maintenance" issues that you weren't expecting. If the fuel economy is still where you mentioned, there shouldn't be anything wrong with the ignition--if there was, it would be missing or cutting out under load and fuel economy would be worse than what you mentioned. All that really matters is that a spark is reliably jumping the gap in the spark plug and igniting the mixture each time. If it had failed an emissions test, having a clean set of plugs and maybe a few other ignition components might help that and might improve fuel economy some, but as long as that spark's jumping is what the main issue is. Of course, it would not hurt to change those things for good measure if it's been a while. What about the other maintenance items like fuel filter and air filter? Just curious. Hope this might help. NTX5467

Have you checked the exhaust for restrictions (i.e., partially clogged catalytic converter) and also checked to see if the wire to the knock sensor has possibly grounded out against something? I'm not sure what linkage your talking about, but the choke pulloff and secondary control are on the passenger side of the carb. I don't recall the QJets for those motors being any smaller in air flow rating that the other regular V-8 QJets so even the primary side should be adequate for your motor without the secondaries being involved. If you did open all 650cfm of carb at once, it would be vastly too much for your engine to handle unless you do some really serious modifications (which would put your mpg down to about 10 or so in the process). The other issue is that the primary side power piston that runs the metering rods up and down could well be stuck in the economy position and is not moving upward with lower manifold vaccum events (as in when you throttle into it). You can stick a large diameter and long screwdriver through the vent tube inside the air cleaner circle to lay on top of the power piston. When you throttle into the motor, it should move upward--if not, you either didn't position the screwdriver correctly or the power piston is stuck (as I suspect it is). If it has an ECM controlled mixture control valve in place of the power piston, it could be similarly bad and need replacement. Between the internal carb issues and the knock sensor wire, I suspect that's where your power concerns will be located, from my experiences with QJets and knock sensors. Enjoy! NTX5467

I believe the 8.5" ring gear rear axle was part of the GNX package and might have existed under a limited number of other A/G bodies over the years. The 7.5" axle is used in a whole lot of 78-87 A/G vehicles and S-trucks. Interestingly, in the later model S-10 pickups and small Blazers, if you ordered a 4.3L V-6 with a 5-speed manual trans, you got the 8.5" ring gear 10-bolt rear axle. Many of the S-Blazers had rear disc brakes too regardless of which axle was under them. I'm not sure how the spring mounts and widths might compare to your application, but the S-Blazer 10-bolt might provide the core from which to build what you perceive you need. Might also be some Ford 9" rear axle possibilities too. Some of the performance guys/racers (including our Moderator) might have some more information for you. Enjoy! NTX5467

Great comments, tyesac. If the LeSabre and Park Avenue were built from the same platform, comparing the LeSabre to the Park Avenue might have more merit, but the LeSabre shares its platform with the Bonneville and the Park Avenue is more Cadillac and Olds Aurora. If, perchance, the relationship between the LeSabre and Park Avenue was more in line to the differences in a Chrysler Concorde or LHS, such a comparison would be more in line with what you're thinking as both of those Chrysler LH cars are on the exact same platform and such. Granted, the Park Avenue has been around in its current form a good while and the LeSabre was updated in 2000. Each are great vehicles but do have their own unique "feel", plus the standard and optional items which can also affect things. National Car Rental usually has some of both in their fleets. You might peruse their larger airport locations to see who has some and then rent them for a weekend excursion to spend some time with them. That would be a rather inexpensive way to really compare both cars and would allow you to spend more time with them rather than a much shorter test drive with a dealership salesperson in the car with you. Getting into their Emerald Isle membership is a good deal too as then YOU choose your car instead of the rental agent (from those available in the designated Emerald Isle area). The two cars are both Buicks, but their target markets are a little different and the character of the cars tends to reflect that. There is some justification for the higher prices of the Park Avenue over the LeSabre. You might also consider ordering a Park Avenue with the equipment you want or get the dealer to dealer trade for one with your equipment choices instead of just taking what's on the lot. Happy shopping! NTX5467

Thanks for your comments, Roberta and Tarps. Tarps, in many respects, the awards banquet has become somewhat unweildy over the years--and it will tend to get worse as more Buick model years become capable of being in the show (due to the "12 Year Rule") as time goes on. There are some strategies which could speed things along, but they might stray from how things were done in the past. At the present time, strict adherance to a schedule and keeping things moving is very important and has been implemented in a variable fashion by the host chapters each year. One of the contributing factors is the way the BCA has configured its awards levels. There are three levels of awards and the number of awards at each level in each class can be totally variable beyond belief. Such high variability can also somewhat strain the meet's trophy builders in the process too! Certainly, it's not nearly as cut and dried as just giving four trophies in each class as many other car show events do. There is a valid reason for the way the BCA awards are set up and it works to support other aspects of the BCA awards process too. Add in the other Senior and Senior Preservation awards, Archival awards, and special awards presented by individuals and chapters into the mix and things can string on for a while yet. One of the "time honored" orientations of the BCA host chapters, Tarps, has been to have a host hotel that is capable of also having all show functions on its premises. As the shows grow and participation similarly grows, this becomes a harder task to make happen. In many geographic areas, finding one main hotel which has some lesser priced lodging nearby--that can meet the "one stop" criteria--just can't be done as it can it other places. Not to mean that a host hotel being remote from the show field/swap meet activities can't be done if properly implemented and planned as we did that in 1996. The BCA Board has an orientation regarding host hotel room rates. The host hotel is usually moderately upscale or moreso, as it should be. Similarly, there usually are several more mid-level/price accomodation choices nearly so that participants/attendees can make their own decision of staying at the more prestigious host hotel or something that better fits their budget. But there can be a trade-off in that decision. You can be more remote from the action or you can be more central to it. If a participant decides to get involved, then a closer accomodation would be better than one that is less expensive but farther away (which would kick in travel time and expense to and from the lodging location and the meet events plus related parking issues). End result, the higher priced more central location might be the cheapest of the options. Key thing is to be an "informed shopper" and look at total costs and not just part of the cost picture in choosing where you stay. Plus, if shuttle service is one of the amenities provided by the host chapter, lodging on that circuit would be a consideration too. As with many things, everything has its related cost involved, whether time, money, or otherwise and how each individual chooses to allocate those considerations is their own deal. There are many issues which can influence National Meet registration costs. These costs will vary from year to year and locale to locale. Part of the overhead will be the trophy expense (including the BCA castings for the awards which the host chapter must purchase from the BCA for the awards) as will other expenses which are not self-supporting from their participation fees (i.e., tours, meals, various rentals). My orientation is that during the planning stages, the host chapter would make a very conservative estimate of attendance and then juggle their registration fees and such to cover the basic costs of the meet (other than the fee-supported functions mentioned above) with the intent of not loosing money. That would be an estimated break-even point, just simple business logic. With this orientation, when more people show up as participants and registerees, profits happen for the host chapter. Hence, a big meet is always considered to be a "successful" meet for many reasons. Yet, poor planning and expense controls can lead to financial disaster regardless of how big the meet is. Everyone has their own motivations to come to a National Meet. Other than the awards banquet, there's the cars to see and the parts to browse through, not to forget the great people we meet or re-meet in the process. The awards banquet can be skipped by some as they desire. It is a somewhat social situation that can be fun and entertaining, plus being the capstone event for the meet before everyone packs up to leave on their trip home or with a BDE tour. When I was at the last Flint meet, I initially considered skipping the awards banquet, but was persuaded to attend. I am glad I did!!! The audio-visual presentation on the history of Buick was fabulous!!! I learned a great deal about Buick, its history, and then-current leadership in the process. I have never regretted attending that event! Yes, we had to sit through a whole lot of introductions of people at the very long head table, plus the awards from the various entities that gave our car awards (but not awards from the BCA judging that did not take place there), but it was a very fun event. You might think you see everyone you want to see at the show field and swap meet, but then you realize how many other people you haven't seen when you see them at the banquet. Granted, some banquets are better than others (in the various aspects that make them "good" or "bad") but if you don't attend them, you'll probably eat a meal in a eating place that is much less busy that night as everyone's usually at the banquet instead. Your judgment call on that one. As I mentioned, a BCA National Meet is or should be considered on a higher level than what we'd consider a weekend cruise-in event or even a regional event. There is a certain degree of formality that needs to be there, but not stifling in the process. Every host chapter tries to make the banquet as nice as they can in whatever orientation they are operating under. This diversity and variability from year to year can be good. Some aspects we have to tolerate and endure while trying to make things happen as expeditiously as possible. If you haven't already made and confirmed your reservations for Flint, you could well be staying a ways away from the action whether you want to or not as others have already made that decision for you by getting their reservations done earlier. Enjoy! NTX5467

Reliability -- very good, but a "chunked" timing chaing can cause problems, as with other motors. Once past the Chevrolet designed motors (back when each GM division had their own respective Head Engineer), motors of the higher level GM carlines were usually designed and machined to higher levels of refinement, durability, and performance. Still, maintenance was necessary for long life. 425 would be a Nailhead and the 430 is a newer design. DynaFlow went through many variations over the years. When properly set up and/or repaired, it was as good as anything else GM did. Seems like there was a Dual-Path DynaFlow for the compact Buick Specials of the early '60s too, that was specific to that car. DynaFlow production probably diminished with the introduction of the SuperTurbine300 two speed automatic and SuperTurbine400 3 speed automatic (i.e., TurboHydramatic 400, but with Switch Pitch) in the more middle than early 1960s. Probably somewhat coincided with the change to open driveshafts in the full size cars. The Chevrolet TurboGlide was similar in concept to the DynaFlow, but more cheaply designed and was known for lesser reliability than other GM transmissions of the time. Hope that helps some and I'm sure some others can add to that too. The reason for your curiousity might be??? Enjoy! NTX5467