ThomasBorchers

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Everything posted by ThomasBorchers

  1. Hi Grant, nice car you have and nice color. I have to look now for the rubber mounts. Regards Tom
  2. Hello, I need a headliner for a 1955 Oldsmobile Super 88 4d sedan. But I found just for a 98 or 2 or 4d Holiday. Could someone tell me, where I can buy one? It shall be ready to install. So not just the fabric. Kind regards Thomas
  3. Hello, thanks for the hints. @ Billy : Well, every car has to go to the safety inspection, when you want a street permission with black plates. Every to years. Even with car built 1905 or so. The inspector was a friend, he owns also classic cars like a 1955 Oldsmobile and 1958 Cadillac. So he knows what he has to check. But inspectors who are not familiar to old cars, can't make these checks. The can do it but often the don't know if something is ok or not. Actually every car who has a light oil like can't pass the safety inspection. Actually every classic car can't pass the inspection. It is a problem here... if you get the wrong inspector. I have to look for the rubber mounts, I actually have not seen some... I can not remember this. @ Danny : The car runs fine. Just when I start to drive, the clutch rattles a bit, when I am to low with the trottle. Regards Thomas
  4. Hello, I have a question about the torque ball of my 1939 Buick Special Business Coupe. I was at the safety inspection here and they said, that the torque ball has a lot of play, this is not ok. When the car is standing with the wheels on the ground, a gear is in and you will spin the rear wheel forward, then the part of the torque ball which I marked on the photo will go forward, moves a bit up, down, left, right and so on. Is this correct, not correct and if not, what can I do to solve the problem? Regards Thomas
  5. Hi, I am looking for a Mercedes Pre War Kompressor car in unrestored condition. Should be untouched as possible and complete as possible. Can be a sedan or convertible. 380 K, 500 K, 540 K and also 400 and 630. Perhaps someone know one for sale? Regards Thomas
  6. Hello, a friend owns a 1949 Chrysler New Yorker with standard brakes. He asked me if it would be possible to get the Vacu-Ease break unit. Is it possible to convert the car with this unit and is it possible to get this system. Seems to be very rare, or? Kind regards Tom
  7. Hello, I own a 1949 Chrysler New Yorker and looking for a wiring diagram. I will order a shop manual but this will takes weeks until I have it in hands. Has someone a wiring diagram for this car which can send via email? Regards Tom
  8. Hello, thank you all for your answers. It should be a 1908 Roadster, I found this old ad in the internet : http://www.periodpaper.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/8022f01105bea4edf676ba39d5976c14/O/L/OLD_280_18.JPG This is like the car of my friend. The differens to the 1909 ist the firewall and the front fenders. At the 1908 cars the step boards are shorter. Kind regards Thomas
  9. Hello, a friend owns an early Reo Roadster. It has the 2 Cylinder engine. We are not sure about the year. I guess it should be a 1908. What do you think? The car is in a good older restored condition. He would like to sell this car. What is a correct price in the US for such a car? Thank you for your help in advance. Kind regards Tom PS : I posted this one also at the Reo section because I don't know if evereyone browse through all forums.
  10. Hello, a friend owns an early Reo Roadster. It has the 2 Cylinder engine. We are not sure about the year. I guess it should be a 1908. What do you think? The car is in a good older restored condition. He would like to sell this car. What is a correct price in the US for such a car? Thank you for your help in advance. Kind regards Tom
  11. Hi Dave, well, I can shift but not without the noise of the transmission. But someone has tried to adjust the linkage. NOW it is harder to shift to every gear. Has someone a manual how to set the linkage correct? Kind regards Tom
  12. Hello again, I adjust the clutch a bit but this will not work. Then I checked the oil level in the transmission. The oil level is at least 1,5 inches below the plug hole. Could it be, that this makes the problems with the shifting into reverse? Regards Tom
  13. Hi Bob, thanks for the answer. A kind of this test I made yesterday evening and it was as you said, the grinding was not to heavy just a little bit. I talked also to the owner before be and he said also, that I should adjust the clutch. He did this also in the past and then smooth shifting should be possible. I will try it... Tom
  14. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Hello, I own a 1949 Chrysler New Yorker 4d Sedan with the Fluid Drive Clutch. I just got this car and make my experiences. With engine running, car is not moving, it is no problem to shift in low or high. Driving also no problem. But if I want to shift in rear, it makes a horrible noise… grrrrrrr…. So actually I can’t shift into rear, just if I switch in with force. But this is not the right way, of course. So where could be the problem and how can I solve it? Thanks for your help Tom
  15. Hello, as we know now, we own a 1929 Detroit Electric Model 97 and no 1923/24. We are restoring the electric but we are not sure with positive or negative ground. We have a wiring diagram but this is from a 1924 model and it shows positive ground but at our car we have negative ground, what is correct? And we would need a wiring diagram of the 1929 Model 97, where could I find one? Regards Tom
  16. Hello Gene, thanks for your hint. The car runs now not bad, it seems as more often we drive, that it will going better. Engine did not run a lot of years. Tom
  17. Hello, I have for sale a very rare 1931 Reo Royale 4d Sedan. It has still its original paint on it in a very good condition. Body and interior is not restored but the engine and so on got an restoration. Runs and drives great. No rust. See photos at : Vintage Automobile - Reo Royale Year : 1931 Make : Reo Model : Royale Price : EUR 75.000,- Location : Zetel, Germany Contact Information : Thomas Borchers, Borch1090@aol.com Feel free to contact me if you have questions. Kind regards Tom
  18. Hello, we own a 1923 / 24 Detroit Electric. At the rear it has the original Watson Sabilator Type AA but there is now one at the front. Where could we get such stabilzer / shocks ? Thanks for your help. Regards Tom
  19. Hello Jerry, this sounds great. We had a look at the rear shocks. These are Watson Stabilator Type AA. Are these the correct ones ? Some photos would be great. And one more important question : Which how much Volts runs your car ? Is it 72 volts or 84 volts ? What is correct for this year ? We have the Model 90. Do you have a photo of the rear lamp ? We own this car about 10 years and the obly tour we made was very, very slow with fully charged batteries. So now we restore the electric system and need new batteries. Thanks for your help. Tom
  20. Hello, we own an 1924 Detroit Electric but the front shocks are missing. Where could we get some? Thanks for your help in advance. Greetings Tom
  21. Hi Rusty, I found out the solution. We had a 1955 Cadillac Eldorado and I still have the shop manual. There is a large body section and also about headliners. You were on the right track with "Or maybe the metal strip was first bent out, the headliner pushed under it, then hammered flat with a wooden mallet" The shop manual says, after installing the supportwires, tacked the headliner at the front and rear, then push the headliner at the sides with a headliner installation tool under the reatiner tabs of the side roof rails. So I think, that the windlace is tacked with staples first at the roof sides before install the headliner. Tom
  22. Hello, here is a photo of my 1955 Buick. Nice color combination, or ? Tom