ThomasBorchers

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Everything posted by ThomasBorchers

  1. Hi Jon, thanks for your answer. Well, it smokes all the time. Cold, mid warm, hot... I have the original shop manual but there I can see what to do if trouble code XY is displayed. But as I said, the diagnostic system will not work. So my guess was, to start with the O2 Sensor, since it is to rich all the time. By the way : This is ECM #3 I use... so the computer was already changed 2 times.
  2. Hello, I am trying to find out, why my 1981 Cadillac 6.0 liter with the nice DFI System runs sooo rich. Lots of black smoke and it needs gas like... don't know... I can't start the diagnostic system so I have to try to find it out the old fashioned way. I would like to start with the oxygen sensor and here is my first problem : I can't find it! Perhaps the cable(s) is off and the computer gets no signal. Can somebody tell me where this sensor is located? And every hint regarding this problem with the rich running engine is welcome. Kind regards Thomas
  3. OK, car is back under the roof... I accelerated a bit more… and then in "Dr" the gear went in and I drove onto the bench again. Then I tried it there from N into fwd gears and R. Well, it takes some seconds, then the gear is in. Or no gear in it in N. Could this be a problem of sticky valves or so?
  4. Today new game : I had to back up the Olds from the car bench for an other car. Wanted to drive it now forward, no chance. I jacked the car up at the rear and see how the wheels are working : N : Wheels spin backwards but not with "power", it is easy to stop them. Dr, S, L : No turning wheels but I can feel that the transmission is in gear because the idle speed is lower as in N. R : Wheels spin as they should and faster as in N. Now my car stands on the outer place and a thunderstorm will come this afternoon... of course... Thomas
  5. Hi all, I have a problem with my 1955 Oldsmobile Super 88 with Hydramatic transmission. I restored the car the last 16 years. The car stood still all the time, but every two years or so I let the engine run. But the car stood at the same spot. I don’t know since when the car was not on the road before the restoration. The problem is : When I start the engine, go into R with the gear selector, the idle goes a bit down ( as it should ), I can feel that a gear is in and with acceleration the car goes reverse. When I go then into Drive, it will not move forward. Also not in the other Gears like L and S. When I am in N, the idle goes a bit up again but when I accelerate the engine, it feels as when the car tries to go reverse. When I wait a while, sometimes I hear a small noise and the car has no longer the tendency to go reverse. When I then put into “Dr” it will go forward. When I jack up the rear wheels and I try all this, it is working as it should. The oil level at the transmission is at the F mark. Has someone an idea what the problem is and what I could do? Thanks for your help Thomas
  6. Thank you for all these Information. My father found now again the papers we got by AACA library. They marked the 1929 Moon 6-72 for us with the 11E engine. And there I can find the valve timing ( Intake opens 5° after DC, closes 45° after DC, exhaust opens 45° before DC, closes 5° after DC ). But what I am still thinking about, is, why the description of our car shows a 212.9 cui engine.... I will ask Montes what they think. Thomas
  7. Yes, this is true... how often will we start the engine in the next years....
  8. Hi together... thank you for all your answers and hints. Well, perhaps I should try the AACA Library, if they have a handbook for this engine, since we still looking for the valve timing. Years ago we got a list with several cars on it by AACA, also a Moon with Continental engine. I mean that there was also the specifications to read. But at the Moment, my father is looking for this paper... he can't find it again. Kind regards Thomas
  9. Well, I have found a Manual as pdf from 1930 Continental engines. There is a description how to fasten the cylinder head. And as you said, there where no torque values. In the shop manual of our 1939 Buick, there are also no torque values but the hint, to ask the manufacturer of torque wrenches for the values...
  10. Hi to all, has someone an idea what the cylinder head torque value and valve timing is for a 1928 / 1929 Continental car engine, probably model E11 or E15. It is a 6 cylinder flat head with 212.9 cui. Or where I could find it? Kind regards Thomas
  11. Thanks for your answers. Well, I am a bit unsettled... the guy told me, that it is very important to buy the correct brushes regarding the amount of copper in the brushes ( 6 Volt ) and that it is not too hard to damage the collector. On Ebay is a replacement set for 35 USD made by Ohio. And I guess that a company here can make brushes for me. One asked me already for the size. But I was confused regarding the thing with the copper and hardness... Thomas
  12. Hi all, Yesteryear helped me to find out the correct brush. It seems that the original tag on the starter is missing. So it is not possible to find out the model. The starter is sitting on a engine by Continental which is build in in a German car, it is a Hansa A6 7seater sedan from 1929. Yesteryear told me that an Autolite brush MH 54 is the right one after the sizes I gave to them. But for a set of 4 = 100,- USD? This sounds very high to me, or? Kind regards Thomas
  13. Hello, well, we tried it at a special car electric store which has often old stuff but here : No success. Don't forget... I am sitting here in Germany. In USA as I needed a stop light switch for my 1955 Buick, I went to Napa and during a minute I got it there for 7.95. Thomas
  14. Hi Gary, fine, thank you. Will try it. Thomas
  15. Hi to all, we have a starter made by Autolite # G537512 from 1929. I need new brushes, browsed the Internet but had no success. Where could I find these parts? Who could help me? Kind regards Thomas
  16. Need still help--- We have installed the Zenith carburetor above but the problem is, that at idle rpm the mixture is too lean, at 1300 rpm it is 10% CO, too rich. Has someone the size of the jets or eben a hint what to do? Kind regards Thomas
  17. Hello all, we own a 1929 Hansa A6 which is fitted with an engine by Continental. Original carb. was a Stromberg UX2 but our is totally rotten. There are some of these cabs on the market but really expensive. I found now a Zenith 9786D which could be ok for us. Good to know is the size of the jets. Has someone information about this? Or perhaps has someone an idea which carb to use instead of the Stromberg? Kind regards Tom
  18. Hello and thank you for your answers. I have fwd it to my friend and I hope. he will find it. Kind regards Thomas
  19. Hello, a friend owns a 1966 Cadillac Eldorado and we have the problem to find the VIN for our safety inspection. The plate at the left center pillar post is missing. Is there a place where the VIN is stamped in in the frame at the 1966 model? Or if not, where is the engine number located. Perhaps it is still the original engine so it should be then the VIN also. But the best would be a number in the frame. Kind regards Thomas
  20. After changing cap and rotor, it runs really good. Regards Thomas
  21. The rotor had very much play, the nut was not tight. Now it runs much better. But will need a new set of rotor and cap. Thomas
  22. There was 25% too much oil in it. Now the plugs are looking great after a test drive. But it is still the problem, that the engine runs at higher rpm not correct. Sometimes there is missing an ignition. I have to inspect the timer and rotor. I have set the coils already with the correct amps with a tester. Thomas
  23. Hi Phil, ok, thank you for the hint. Today I am at the car and opened the upper oil cock. Since 3 hours I am waiting that oil dripping stops... Soon I have to change the small bucket under the oil cock, then it will be full with 1/4 gallon oil. It takes time since the oil is cold and SAE 40 Type. Under the transmission my friend installed an extra oil pan. In it is also a plenty of oil. I have to wait how much oil will finally come out and then start a new try. Regards Thomas
  24. Hello, a friend owns a 1924 Model T. He always had problems with his engine. Now it seems, that he solved problems with the ignition, the car has a new carburetor, the gaskets to the manifolds are new and work correct. But... the spark plugs are ( except one ) very fast sooty. If we turn to more lean mixture, it starts to misfire. Engine runs very uneven at every carb setting. I have tested the compression. I have read that it should be between 50 and 70 PSI. But it has between 36 and 40. The engine got new pistons and rings a year ago, valves were lapped. So my question is, is this compression too low or should the engine run with this compression? I just have an idea... what will happen, if the oil level is much to high? I have seen, that oil bubbles were at one spark plug, as the engine run. Could come to much soot when the oil level is to high? Kind regards Thomas
  25. I searched a lot the last days, but found now one diagram via Google. I followed just the circuit from the switch through the connectors. There was always power. Last check was the connector in the trunk. Also power. I connected the cables again and... have now brake lights. :confused: But I really don't know whey--- Regards Thomas