ThomasBorchers

Hi, well, I changed the MAP but made no difference. The solution was a broken ECM. Then it was ok but after a short while I had no ignition spark. A nightmare... Finally I bought a new distributor. But I have still to adjust it, seems that the ignition is now too late. The car is running but the display shows again nothing and when I switch the ignition on, the blower is on the highest level. Seems that there is again a problem with the ECM or wiring or so... Kind regards Thomas

No, this ist not the problem.

At first to all: I am sorry for my confusion in this theme. I have here a construction side on my place with lots of dirt, noise and so on. Hard to find a clear though. Today it is quit and I studied the wiring diagram of the Lincoln and now I understand how the ignition works and where I have to look for the problem. I understand ( sides in driving direction ) that the right side of the coil with the resistor and condenser, and the part near to engine of the rotor, and the part near to engine of the distributor caps are working for the right side of the engine. Since I hooked directly a cable to the coil terminals with no resistor, I should exclude that the problems come from a resistor or to less power to and from resistor to the coils. Next step I did today was to change the ( new ) condensers from left to right. Ah! Suddenly I had good spark on the right side of the engine and bad or no one on the left side. This was a sign where the problem could be. So I took one of my old condensers. I checked the value of the new one: 0,55 micro farads. Hmm, then of the old one I still have: 0,55 micro farads. I put in the old one and then I had a really strong spark on both sides of the engine. Engine runs nice and smooth. So the new condenser was not ok. So it seems, that the problem is solved. But it could be that my condensers have not the correct capacity. 0.55 mF is too high, or? 0.31 to 0.34 is probably correct? Kind regards Tom

I have now cleaned up the ground points at the right cylinderhead but it make to difference. OK, Tom, where could I get a new set of resistors? I can't find them in the Internet. Do you have a source for me? Kind regards Tom

Hi! I find out something new today. I let the engine run and checked the spark at the ignition cables to ground. This was interesting. On the left side ( drivers side ) I have a really strong spark. On the right side… just a very small weak spark or even no one ( remember the wet plugs on the right side ). I know that the two parts of the distributor serves not just one side, I know that the cables go across. 3 on the same side, three to the other. So it can’t have to do something with the distributor because on the left side I have at all plugs a strong spark. For my understanding I must have a bad ground on the right cylinder head. Perhaps a good ground to the block, but not to the head. I will check this out and let you know. Tom

Hi Ray, hi Edinmass, at first: Thank you for your thoughts and help. And Edinmass especially for the offer to check my distributor. I can make some photos of the old one which I still have in my shelf. But perhaps it is a bit far away to send it to you. Today I got the new spark plugs, filled in fresh gas and started. It started right up and runs good. The first try I had three wet plugs in one row on the right cylinder bank but at the second try now just one. I checked now with running engine the voltage at the coil and on the left terminal I have then 4.4 volts and right 4.7 volts. The bad thing is that the generator is not working… 😒 I don’t know if the voltage is with running engine now ok or still to less. What would you say? Kind regards Tom

Hi Edinmass, thank you for your answer. I already put direct the resistors on the coil ( I even tried a resistor where I know that it works on an other car ), put direct current with two leads from the battery to the resistors terminals and also put additional ground to the distributor. Cleaned all contact surfaces. So everything was already total isolated to eliminate problems of switches and leads. Well, I have just a little bit experiences in old cars… just 27 years of working at classic cars from 1901 to the 70s.😉 But sometimes… I repaired lots of ignition problems of lots of different cars but the Lincoln tells me who the master is in this game. At the moment... The only thing I can imagine would could be the problem is a bad contact between the ignition contacts under load. I have just checked it again, with cold resistors I have now 2.7 volts at the coil with closed contacts. Tom

Hi Tom, yes, this is the way I put on the leads of the voltmeter. Perhaps I am wrong but…. I pick up so current from two terminals which have the same polarity. In this case from minus to minus. So it is in line. In line I can check the ampere and resistance but for voltage I need plus and minus. So for my understanding to check how much voltage flow, I have to put one lead at the outlet terminal of a resistor and the other one to ground. Or? Kind regards Tom

Hi Tom, thanks for your answer. Yes, I often had this with the contacts. Recently at my Model which ran not for 4 months or so. I did as you said and here are the results: Between the terminals at the resisters with points closed I read 3mV ( millivolts ) each. Between the two terminals at the ignition switch with switch pulled, I read 30mV. But the 3mV is much less at you said. Some days before I removed the resisters to contact them directly to the coil as Skip said. So this was the chance to clean up all contact surfaces at the wires and at the resisters. I used also some “tuner spray” for a good contact which I have for my vintage hifi receiver. But now the resisters are on the old spot under the dashboard again. Kind regards Tom

Hi! It will not end with our 1947 Lincoln. Still the thing with the ignition. I got back the coil rebuild by Skip. Put it in, no spark. Removed the coil, distributor, checked if the points have good contact and yes, they have. Put all in place.. suddenly I had spark. Engine started but had a rough idle and after running the engine a bit, some plug were wet. But they are old, were often wet since we have the ignition problem. Together with really old ( 2 years ) gas, this can’t work. I ordered new plugs and I am waiting for it. In the meantime I checked the voltage at the coil terminal as Skip wrote in his facts sheet which came with the coil. Fully charged new battery which has 6.36 volts. I checked the voltage at the coil. Ignition on, one point set is closed, one open. On the closed side: 2.2 volts ( where it should has around 4 ) and with open points just above 6 Volts. Ground from Battery goes directly on the engine. So Skip told me to make some other tests link a jumper cable at the ignition switch, put the resistors ( have correct one ohm resistance ) at the coil terminals and take current directly from the battery. And at least I removed the resistor out of my 1968 Mercedes which has 0.9 ohms and hooked it at the coil but at all these tests… I have just 2.2 Volts at the coil. The distributor is an overhauled one, bought at George Trickett if I remember right in 2005. New condensors. I have found an old topic in the AACA forum written by me. Already in 2004 I had the problem with the low voltage and bought then this “new” distributor and coil and the car run then. But not really good. So actually I am still at the point of 2004… I am out of ideas, and I am afraid that Skip will give up in the future. He said in the last mail, that I should try to let the engine run without the resistors but just a short time to see how it runs then. Kind regards Tom

My coil is already back at the customs here. Will wait for it and hope that the repair solves finally my problem. Tom

Seems that the coil now has reached Skip. After the tracking... I used DHL and in USA then USPS.

My coil is already on the way to Skip. I hope he will get it and will get it back, not lost during the shipping process.

I am always glad about persons who can still help us with this old stuff. As you can see, here we have no one, who can repair these coils. I owned a 1912 Cadillac and two valve springs broke. Here was no company who wanted to make these springs. I found then “House of springs” in Wisconsin. Or got valves for our 1918 Hudson from Egge. Or ignition parts for the 1912 Cadillac by an old man who collected these old ignition parts. I have bought there around the year 2000. With Skip, I have waited now two years to send him the ignition coil… so I have no reason to rush him. I am glad, when the coil reaches him and when I have it back. I have no idea how much time it will take. Kind regards Tom

It works, I got now contact with Skip. 😀

Hi Tom, thank you, good to know. I have the one above and skip@fordsrus.com. Then I will try the aol one. Tom

Thank you, Abe. Yes, I have seen these conversion kits. If I will have no other chance, I have to use this. But have seen today this Email on Skips website: rus@fordcollector.com I have tried it there, also. Perhaps this works. If not, I will try it via Ford Barn ( have just seen that I am registered there since 10 years... ). Tom

Hi, thank you. Ah, I see. Well, my problem is that I am not very good with my English over the phone... Face to face or via Email it is "ok". So I will still see how it works with Skip, will try it via Ford Barn since I get no answer with my emails. Tom

Thank you both. I will try it. It is always good to have an alternative. Dou you know if Jerry has an Email? It is a bit complicated for me via phone. Thanks Tom

Thanks for the advise. Skip is the only one I know who can make these coils. Here no one can repair them. Actually in 2020 I wanted to send Skip my coil but then came Covid-19 and with it the problems with oversea shipping. Then came Christmas and lots of parcels where around and I was afraid in to lose the coil in the package crowds. And again a year was gone… and now I have to do it because the Lincoln is made for driving. The only alternative I know to Skip is to use one of these conversion kits. But they look not really nice and are even more expensive than a repair incl. shipping. I will try it again with Skip. How can I make it via Ford Barn? Tom

Hi, who knows if Skip Haney in Florida is still in business? I tried to contact him via Email two days ago. Actually he answered within several hours but at the moment, no answer. I would like to send him my V12 coil but need new information about shipping and price. The last offer I have is really old ( 1.5 years ). I can't call him because my English over the phone is not the best. Tom

Hi Russel, thanks for your answer. No, it has no de-compression cocks, just the priming cups you mentioned. Well, I have to try it as you have said. I am still thinking about an electric starter because I am a bit afraid for my back. I have seen that you are located in Australia an in the brass car scene. Do you know one with a 1913 Hudson 6-54 with a roadster body? I had here a visit from a man from Australia which had checked out our Hudson to build such a roadster body but I had never a contact with him. It is 10 years ago or so. Kind regards Thomas

Ah, I see, thank you for the hints. A 12V battery is already installed because we need this for the ignition. It has no magneto ignition, just battery ignitions coils. Like the Ford Model T. So then I have to switch to the HCCA website and Forum there. Are there also some photos of such systems? Tom

Flat belt, sounds interesting. And this has enough friction then to turn the engine over? I have never seen this before as an engine starting system. I know them from my grandfathers old machines like a belt driven saw. Tom

An electric starter would be a really good solution. I know for example a Mercedes Simplex here which has an electric starter. I would like to do this but don't know how. Normally I would put a cogwheel on the flywheel but there is so less space between flywheel and frame, that it is not possible. I thought about to use something like the old race cars without starter. Tom