ThomasBorchers

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Everything posted by ThomasBorchers

  1. Hello,<o></o> <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o> well, I tried these battery tenders which can switch on and of by itself. This works but I never had a full charged battery. So now I disconnect the battery, leave it in the car and every month I check the voltage. When the battery is half full, I charge the battery with a normal charger. <o>></o> <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o> In regions with very cold winters, the battery should be always full charged. Otherwise the acid could be freeze. This is also the problem when you use outside a battery jogger. <o></o> <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o> Greetings from Germany<o></o> <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--><o></o> Tom<o></o>
  2. By the way, ich didn't buy the car because it had a lot of filler on the right side. It had already a crack in the lacquer at the front fender. Too much work for me at the moment. Thanks for your help Tom
  3. Hi Rich, well, they have the same kit as I have. And the leather cup for the piston but no inside parts for the vaccum piston. I have not seen it in the online store. I will ask them. Thanks. Tom
  4. Hello, I have to restore the power brake at our 1955 Oldsmobile. I got a kit but there are just parts for the brake cylinder. I found out that the rubber valves inside of the vacuum piston are in a bad condition. Is it possible to get these parts, also ? Regards Tom
  5. Hello, the number which the owner gave to me is a casting number of the block. I found out that this casting says, that it is a 455 block. So it is not the correct engine... Tom
  6. Hi Bryan, ok, then you mean actualy it must be a Toronado engine ? The number which the guy gave me is not the stamped in number at the cylinder head, he told me just this. Thank you Tom
  7. Hello, after the VIN it is a 67 Toro deLuxe. Then the owner gave me the engine number : 396021 But he said nothing about a alphabetical prefix. How can I find out if it is a Toronado engine and not just a normal 425 engine ? Tom
  8. Hi Bryan, thanks for your tips. Well, I am not sure if it is a 66 or 67 Toronado because until now I am waiting for the VIN to check this. Actually I thought the 67 has not the "eyebrow" above the head lights. But this one has it. But the grille is correct for a 67. Tom
  9. Hi Pat, where are the drain rubbers in the trunk exactly located ? Tank you Tom
  10. Hello, thank you for the advice. Well, it seems that the car is in a good and rust free condition, very nice interior but has some small problems. For example, the headlights are not going to the upper position ( expensive to fix ? ). The power stearing leaks a bit, one door arm rest is missing. Tom
  11. Hello, I am thinking about to buy a 1967 Olds Toronado. Could someone say me where to watch for ? I mean, what are the typical problems of the 1967 Oldsmobile ? Where should I have a closer look ? How can I identify the correct engine ? Thanks for your help Tom
  12. Hello, The 235 engine of my 1952 Chevy 3100 leaks oil at the rear main bearing seal. One shop said, that it is necessary to remove the crankshaft and change the front and rear seal. There is no other way to do this if I want a good deal. The other shop said, it is just necessary to remove the rear mean bearing cap, change the lower seal and for the upper seal they have a special tool to change this seal. The first shop will need 16 hours, will remove the engine from the car, remove crankshaft and so on and take for this job $ 1800.-. The second shop says, they will need just 3 hours, will take around $ 200,- for the job. What shall I do ? Is it necessary to remove the crankshaft to change the seal ? Or is it ok to change the seal with a sneaky pete tool ? Thanks for your help. Tom
  13. Hello, I have some questions regarding the 1955 Cadillac Hydramatic transmission. The shifting is a little bit rough when I depress the acceleration pedal just a bit to pick up speed. When I depress the pedal more, the shifting is smooth. Is this normal ? And : How to check the automatic oil level ? The shop manual says, that the engine has to run 2 minutes or so in “N”. The level at the dip stick should be at mark “full”. But : The shop manual says nothing about if the fluid should be warm, hot or can be cold. I replaced the fluid and filled up with cold transmission to level “full”. Now I am thinking if it could be, that it is now overfilled when the fluid is really hot after or trip of 100 miles and the fluid starts to foam and that this the reason is why the shifting is hard as described above. Could someone help me please ? Kind regards Tom
  14. Hello, I have some questions regarding the 1955 Cadillac Hydramatic transmission. The shifting is a little bit rough when I depress the acceleration pedal just a bit to pick up speed. When I depress the pedal more, the shifting is smooth. Is this normal ? And : How to check the automatic oil level ? The shop manual says, that the engine has to run 2 minutes or so in “N”. The level at the dip stick should be at mark “full”. But : The shop manual says nothing about if the fluid should be warm, hot or can be cold. I replaced the fluid and filled up with cold transmission to level “full”. Now I am thinking if it could be, that it is now overfilled when the fluid is really hot after or trip of 100 miles and the fluid starts to foam and that this the reason is why the shifting is hard as described above. Could someone help me please ? Kind regards Tom
  15. Hi Mudbone, I own a 1955 Buick Century, too. As you can see, it is in red and white color. I like this combination but this is also not the original color. It was cameo beige with a chekoree red roof. But I bought the car as it is. I actually would mostly say, that I would take the original color and trim if I can decide this. Regards Tom
  16. Hello, I have to change the gasket of the oil pan of our 1955 Cadillac Eldorado. Is it possible to change this gasket without to remove the engine ? Thanks for your help. Kind regards Tom
  17. Hi, we own also a DKW 1000 SP like the coral colored one. There were several cars in Germany which looked like small US Cars : 1958 to 1961 Opel Rekord ( sold in USA as "small Buick" ), 1958 to 1965 Opel Kapitaen. The Kapitaen was also available with a Chevy V 8 engine. The early one ( Diplomat A ) with the 283 cui engine and the later "Diplomat" with the 327 cui engine. This was the real last large Opel in Germany which was very close or even over Mercedes. Tom
  18. Hello, a friend owns a 1953 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible. But he is not sure if it is a real convertible or a conversion. The car has no ID Plate to find this out. Is it possible to find out if it is a real convertible or not without this ID Plate ? Has someone an idea ? Thanks for your help. Regards Tom
  19. Hello, I have 6 new ( 3 years old ), never used valve springs for sale for the 1912 Cadillac. Made in USA. Price : $ 170,- plus shipping. Location : Germany. I would accept Paypal. If you are interested, send me an Email : Borch1090@aol.com Thanks Tom
  20. Hello, an old car fan from Germany will be in USA, Naples, Florida from October, 28th to November, 11th. He would like to drive 1 or 2 hours in a 1959 Cadillac, if possible a convertible but this is not a must. He don’t want to drive by himself but it would be a pleasure for him to drive in such a car. And he of course will pay for the time. If someone is interested in this, you can contact him : hegener@hs-dus.com Herbert Hegener. Regards Tom
  21. Hi AJ, do you need to move the car during the show ? If just to move the car to the stage you can use car dollies by GoJak or similar : http://www.nextag.com/car-dollies/search-html They will not damage the tires and the car is easy to move but you can see this dollies and it looks not very authentic. Regards Tom
  22. Hi Bob, we own a 1961 Volvo PV 544 Sport B 18. The engine is a bit modified. It has a B 20 head, a sport cam shaft and now it has 117 HP. Regards Tom
  23. Jim, Pete. Thanks for your answers. Now I know that the word which I was looking for was “wobble”. Thanks for this. And thank you of course for your hints. It seems that the shaft is ok but with the hole in the fan I am not sure. I will first try it with a new key and than I will see what will happen. I guessed that, that it would be bad to drive with this wobble. So I will try to get a key here first. They will mostly sold with the castle nut and they are very cheap so the dealers here says often : This order is to less to send the part. And from USA there is a lot of shipping costs. Regards Tom
  24. Hello, I have a small problem with the fan of our 1929 Model A Roadster. I use a 2 blade cast aluminium fan. In the past it got a bit loose and it was possible to move the fan on the shaft. As I removed the fan from the shaft, I have seen, that the woodruff key is a bit worn. But I reinstalled it again since I don't have a new one at the moment, put a washer between castle nut and fan, and the fan is now fixed on the shaft. But… it turns not evenly, not round. The pulley or hub moves a bit for and backward, I would say 1 millimeter ( this is .04 inch ). I don’t mean a movement of the shaft. I hope you understand what I mean. I don't know the special english word for this movement. My question is now : Is this movement a problem and is it because the woodruff key is worn or the fan ? I think this movement could be bad for the water pump bearings. Thanks for your help in advance. Kind regards Tom