ThomasBorchers

Members
  • Content Count

    801
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ThomasBorchers

  1. @ Larry : Everything looks really good and the stop lights and turn signal have the same bulb. @ Terry : I checked it as you said but will not work. @ Jack : This is a good hint. I remember my 1956 Buick I had in the 90s. There I had also problems, if the turn signal lever was not absolutely in the middle : No brake lights. Has someone a wiring diagram where I can see the colors of the cables? Regards Tom
  2. Hello, with my 72 Marquis Brougham, I have the problem that the stop lights will not work. I checked the switch at the brake pedal, when I press down the pedal a bit, there flows current through the switch as it shall. I am a bit confused why I find a second hydraulic stop light switch at the master cylinder. Actually I know it so, if I press down the brake pedal, the stop light switch close the connection so that current flows through and the switch to the stop lights. But here, there flows always current. So actually the stop lights should always work... I must say, that I don't understand this system with the two switches. Help.... But I have a guess... is the switch at the brake pedal not for the stop lights? Could It be, that this one blocks the gear lever not to go into a drive position, if the pedal is not pressed down? Kind regards Thomas
  3. Hi Terry, hi RustyO, I tried it as Terry said and it worked. It was not necessary to go to a high engine speed, just after the engine started, the clutch worked already. OK, rear brake is a bit tight at the moment but not that much. So it is funny, it was possible to move the car with the starter and low speed gear. And now, the clutch works suddenly... :confused: Well, why not... Regarding starter : After Cadillac tested the system for their 1912 model, they switched for 1913 to a better system and sold the other system to some auto makers : Hudson, Oldsmobile, Cole, Packard... for their 1913 models. I have an old advertinsing here. So thank you for your help. This saves me a lot of time and work. @ rusty : The clutch housing has just a filler plug, where I can see the clutch discs but it was not possible to go between flywheel and discs.
  4. Hi Terry, thanks for the hint. It is worth a try. Just for information : The 1913 Hudson has already an electric starter, the first system from the 1912 Cadillac with the 4 x 6 Volts Batteries. And it has already a speedometer but this will not work in this case, since the cable is attached at one front wheel. Thomas
  5. Hello, I have a problem with my 1913 Hudson 6-54 Roadster. After not driving during the winter, I tried to make a small tour but... the clutch will not disengage. I tried several things like turning engine with gear in and clutch pedal down, but it still sticks. I let run the engine 15 minutes, in the hope that the clutch will warm up and then will no longer stick but... no success. Then I changed the oil in the clutch system ( wet system with cork inserts ), turned the engine some times during the next days but clutch still sticks. Has someone an hint for me what to do, except dismantle the clutch ( on the transmission is a big sign : Be careful : Very heavy... :cool: , so if not necessary... ) Kind regards Thomas
  6. Hi, the plastic container is the one for the washer fluid. It is the same I have. Yes, of course the don't do it for fun. But why Ford / Mercury stopped the expension tanks in 1967. Here at Macs I searched for expension tanks for Ford and Mercury. This ist the result : http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp?sb=0&ls=y&camid=FMP&year=0&make=&ss=expansion+tank&x=16&y=11 I guess if Ford or Mercury used the tank in 1972, Macs and the other part dealers would offer it, or? I can find it until 1967 or much younger. Well, I am thinking about this : Ford built in 1972 a lot of cars with no expansion tanks and it seems, that it worked. Why should it work not today? Kind regards Thomas
  7. Hi, thanks for the hints. I will think about it. I browsed a lot of photos of engine rooms but there were never an original expensive tank. I have an original oweners manual and there is also not metioned such a tank. And when you browse through the offers of spare parts, there are expension tanks offered but never for this year. As far as I remember until 67 or 69. This is a 66 model. It has the expension tank and there you can see is no filler cap at the radiator. But my car as a filler cap at the radiator. http://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/plugins/PostviaEmail/images/1966_Mercury_Park_Lane_Convertible_For_Sale_Engine_resize.jpg Here is a photo of a 1970 LTD : http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/1970_Ford_LTD_390_engine.JPG cooling system looks similar to my Mercury. No tank... here from a 1972 T-Bird : http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2007/11/28/01/01/1972_ford_thunderbird-pic-20784.jpeg Kind regards Thomas
  8. Hello, seems that the problem is solved. I have driven today around 20 min, at 45 to 50 mph speed. Then let run at idle ca. 5 min. Engine was not too hot and as I stopped the engine, it pressed out just a very little water. Perhaps now it was really to much water in it. Kind regards Thomas
  9. This sounds plausible. I put back the thermostat and the engine runs a bit cooler with the thermostat. The temperature at the radiator outlet was lower as it was with out radiator. But I didn't make a testdrive until now to check if water comes out again. Kind regards Thomas
  10. Hello, and thank you for your answer. I browsed through several photos but find no container. So I had a look in the spare parts list of Macs. There where two expansion tanks but just for cars from 1960 to 1967. Do you mean my problem could be the result of the removed thermostat? Perhaps water comes to fast out of the engine at the upper Radiator hose and can't get back fast enough through the lower radiator back to engine, when the engine is shut off... ??? I have to test it... Kind regards Thomas
  11. Hi, yes, I will try it with the thermostat. Regarding coolant recovery container, I can't see, that there is a space, where it was, if it was installed. Tom
  12. Hello, I recently bought a 1972 Mercury Marquis. Runs great but I have a problem with the cooling system. I can drive on the freeway, then in the city with stop and go traffic.... no problem. The overheat light is not glowing and it runs around 185°F. But... when I shut of the engine, the water is going out the overflow. So long, until the water level is half of the radiator. But I can't hear, that it is boiling... I cleaned the system recently. I have the correct 13 lbs cap but I know, that someone has removed the thermostat. So my question is, why the water blows out of the system after shutting of the engine after 3 or 4 stops. Kind regards Thomas
  13. Hello, thanks for the answers. The pump was restored about 6 years ago or so. At this time, there was installed a stainless steel shaft. But the gaskets around the shaft started to leak. We didn't take care of this. Big mistake by us. So water dripped always on the pump housing... I attached a photo, where you can see, what I mean. I marked it with an arrow. It looks already rusty by the water out of the radiator. And this part is now very thin, I even think, that it leaks already through the material or it has already a crack. The pump is an aluminium one. Thomas
  14. Hello, I recently bought a 1972 Mercury Marquis. Runs great but I have a problem with the cooling system. I can drive on the freeway, then in the city with stop and go traffic.... no problem. The overheat light is not glowing and it runs around 185°F. But... when I shut of the engine, the water is going out the overflow. So long, until the water level is half of the radiator. But I can't hear, that it is boiling... I cleaned the sytem recently. I have the correct 13 lbs cap but I know, that someone has removed the thermostat. So my question is, why the water blows out of the system after shutting of the engine after 3 or 4 stops. Kind regards Thomas
  15. Hello, at our 1918 Hudson Super Six the water pump leaked and leaks still. Water dripped onto the lower pipe which goes into the hose to radiator. Now the material is so thin, that it seems that the pipe leaks now also. I guess, that when I will remove the pump, that I will break of the pipe. So my question : Is it possible to get such a water pump? It looks like this one : http://hudsonterraplane.com/SuperSix/WaterOilPumpDist/WaterPump2.JPG Regards Thomas
  16. Hi Joe, here it would be also no problem to go to a trim shop. But then I would pay not USD 170,-, but something around 500,-. Working hours are very expensive here. I can install it by myself but need a ready to install headliner. The cheapest I found is around 300,- USD. Regards Thomas
  17. Hi Grant, nice car you have and nice color. I have to look now for the rubber mounts. Regards Tom
  18. Hello, I need a headliner for a 1955 Oldsmobile Super 88 4d sedan. But I found just for a 98 or 2 or 4d Holiday. Could someone tell me, where I can buy one? It shall be ready to install. So not just the fabric. Kind regards Thomas
  19. Hello, thanks for the hints. @ Billy : Well, every car has to go to the safety inspection, when you want a street permission with black plates. Every to years. Even with car built 1905 or so. The inspector was a friend, he owns also classic cars like a 1955 Oldsmobile and 1958 Cadillac. So he knows what he has to check. But inspectors who are not familiar to old cars, can't make these checks. The can do it but often the don't know if something is ok or not. Actually every car who has a light oil like can't pass the safety inspection. Actually every classic car can't pass the inspection. It is a problem here... if you get the wrong inspector. I have to look for the rubber mounts, I actually have not seen some... I can not remember this. @ Danny : The car runs fine. Just when I start to drive, the clutch rattles a bit, when I am to low with the trottle. Regards Thomas
  20. Hello, I have a question about the torque ball of my 1939 Buick Special Business Coupe. I was at the safety inspection here and they said, that the torque ball has a lot of play, this is not ok. When the car is standing with the wheels on the ground, a gear is in and you will spin the rear wheel forward, then the part of the torque ball which I marked on the photo will go forward, moves a bit up, down, left, right and so on. Is this correct, not correct and if not, what can I do to solve the problem? Regards Thomas
  21. Hi, I am looking for a Mercedes Pre War Kompressor car in unrestored condition. Should be untouched as possible and complete as possible. Can be a sedan or convertible. 380 K, 500 K, 540 K and also 400 and 630. Perhaps someone know one for sale? Regards Thomas
  22. Hello, a friend owns a 1949 Chrysler New Yorker with standard brakes. He asked me if it would be possible to get the Vacu-Ease break unit. Is it possible to convert the car with this unit and is it possible to get this system. Seems to be very rare, or? Kind regards Tom
  23. Hello, I own a 1949 Chrysler New Yorker and looking for a wiring diagram. I will order a shop manual but this will takes weeks until I have it in hands. Has someone a wiring diagram for this car which can send via email? Regards Tom
  24. Hello, thank you all for your answers. It should be a 1908 Roadster, I found this old ad in the internet : http://www.periodpaper.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/8022f01105bea4edf676ba39d5976c14/O/L/OLD_280_18.JPG This is like the car of my friend. The differens to the 1909 ist the firewall and the front fenders. At the 1908 cars the step boards are shorter. Kind regards Thomas