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ThomasBorchers

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Everything posted by ThomasBorchers

  1. Hi Mudbone, I own a 1955 Buick Century, too. As you can see, it is in red and white color. I like this combination but this is also not the original color. It was cameo beige with a chekoree red roof. But I bought the car as it is. I actually would mostly say, that I would take the original color and trim if I can decide this. Regards Tom
  2. Hello, I have to change the gasket of the oil pan of our 1955 Cadillac Eldorado. Is it possible to change this gasket without to remove the engine ? Thanks for your help. Kind regards Tom
  3. Hi, we own also a DKW 1000 SP like the coral colored one. There were several cars in Germany which looked like small US Cars : 1958 to 1961 Opel Rekord ( sold in USA as "small Buick" ), 1958 to 1965 Opel Kapitaen. The Kapitaen was also available with a Chevy V 8 engine. The early one ( Diplomat A ) with the 283 cui engine and the later "Diplomat" with the 327 cui engine. This was the real last large Opel in Germany which was very close or even over Mercedes. Tom
  4. Hello, a friend owns a 1953 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible. But he is not sure if it is a real convertible or a conversion. The car has no ID Plate to find this out. Is it possible to find out if it is a real convertible or not without this ID Plate ? Has someone an idea ? Thanks for your help. Regards Tom
  5. Hello, I have 6 new ( 3 years old ), never used valve springs for sale for the 1912 Cadillac. Made in USA. Price : $ 170,- plus shipping. Location : Germany. I would accept Paypal. If you are interested, send me an Email : Borch1090@aol.com Thanks Tom
  6. Hello, an old car fan from Germany will be in USA, Naples, Florida from October, 28th to November, 11th. He would like to drive 1 or 2 hours in a 1959 Cadillac, if possible a convertible but this is not a must. He don’t want to drive by himself but it would be a pleasure for him to drive in such a car. And he of course will pay for the time. If someone is interested in this, you can contact him : hegener@hs-dus.com Herbert Hegener. Regards Tom
  7. Hi AJ, do you need to move the car during the show ? If just to move the car to the stage you can use car dollies by GoJak or similar : http://www.nextag.com/car-dollies/search-html They will not damage the tires and the car is easy to move but you can see this dollies and it looks not very authentic. Regards Tom
  8. Hi Bob, we own a 1961 Volvo PV 544 Sport B 18. The engine is a bit modified. It has a B 20 head, a sport cam shaft and now it has 117 HP. Regards Tom
  9. Jim, Pete. Thanks for your answers. Now I know that the word which I was looking for was “wobble”. Thanks for this. And thank you of course for your hints. It seems that the shaft is ok but with the hole in the fan I am not sure. I will first try it with a new key and than I will see what will happen. I guessed that, that it would be bad to drive with this wobble. So I will try to get a key here first. They will mostly sold with the castle nut and they are very cheap so the dealers here says often : This order is to less to send the part. And from USA there is a lot of shipping costs. Regards Tom
  10. Hello, I have a small problem with the fan of our 1929 Model A Roadster. I use a 2 blade cast aluminium fan. In the past it got a bit loose and it was possible to move the fan on the shaft. As I removed the fan from the shaft, I have seen, that the woodruff key is a bit worn. But I reinstalled it again since I don't have a new one at the moment, put a washer between castle nut and fan, and the fan is now fixed on the shaft. But… it turns not evenly, not round. The pulley or hub moves a bit for and backward, I would say 1 millimeter ( this is .04 inch ). I don’t mean a movement of the shaft. I hope you understand what I mean. I don't know the special english word for this movement. My question is now : Is this movement a problem and is it because the woodruff key is worn or the fan ? I think this movement could be bad for the water pump bearings. Thanks for your help in advance. Kind regards Tom
  11. Hello ! A friend owns a 1950 Desoto Custom with the Tip Toe Hydraulic Shift. What kind of oil does he need for the transmission ? Is it a normal gearbox oil or a ATF ? Thanks for your help in advance. Regards Tom
  12. Hello, we own a 1953 Cadillac and have sometimes problems to start the engine when hot. So we think about to use a spacer between the carb and intake manifold. The engine has a Carter carb. ( original equipment ) WCB 2005S. Has someone an idea where we could get such a spacer ? Thanks for your help in advance Thomas Borchers
  13. Great ! Thank you very much for your help. Kind regards Tom
  14. Hello, is the hubcap on the photo a Dodge hubcap or know someone which make it is ? Thanks in advance. Tom
  15. Hi Jeff, thank you for the information. After 2 hours of browsing the internet, I found a site with the casting numbers. http://www.antiquegmtrucks.com/GMCCastingNumbers/ After this, 3769716 indicates a 1958 to 1962 235 Chevy truck engine as you said. Tom
  16. Hello, we own a 1951 Chevrolet 3100 DeLuxe Cabin. Installed is not the correct engine because it is too long for the engine room with fan. A friend means that it is a 1969 GMC Engine but I mean that it looks older as a 1969 engine. I found this numbers : All on the right side of engine. This one is stamped in on the left site of the distributor : F 607 J. This is on the crank case on the right side of distributor : 3769716 And the on the left side of the crank case behind the starter : 00N4 F 27 Can someone say me which year this is ? And is it a Chevrolet or GMC Engine ? Kind regards Tom
  17. Hi Willie, the old part has much more looseness as the new one. A friend here who works at the "car safety inspection" told me also that it is normal, that these kind of threads has a bit looseness. I made the adjustment exactly after the shop manual. Thanks for your answer, now I am happy and ready to tour again. Tom
  18. Dear Leif, thanks for your answer. I adjusted the bracket after the description in the shop manual, to get the correct measure from the lower screw of the bracket to the upper point of the idler arm. Actually this should be ok, or ? Regards Tom
  19. Thanks for you answer. But this means, that this brand new, never used bracked with bushing is new trash ? I bought it by Cars Inc. Regards Tom
  20. Hi, thanks for your answer but there is no play between arm and bushing. There is play between bushing and support ( frame bracket ) and both are new. And : It is not possible to get the idler arm and the frame bracket with it bushing. Not at Cars inc. or Kanter, just frame bracket and bushing. Tom
  21. The support and bushing with fitting is brand new. They used a kind of black grease and I filled up with a different type. The idler arm ist still the same because I can't get these arms but the small play is in the new bushing / support thread. No play between bushing and idler arm. Tom
  22. Hi Sarah, why do you mean, that it is an Mercedes ? Regards Tom
  23. Hello, I hope someone can help me... I have just installed a new idler arm support with new bushing because I meant I have to change it because I had play there but it seems now, the old one has play and the new one has also play and is bad quality ? Or must there a bit play in this thread ? But perhaps I made mistakes so I would like to ask you, what the correct way is to install the support and bushing. As I wrote on the attached photo, I fixed / tightened the lower screw / bushing to the idler arm. Is this correct ? Then I turned in the support into this screw / bushing until it has its correct adjustment but... it has play.. this can't be correct or ? Did I bought trash or did I make mistakes ? Thanks for your help. Tom
  24. Steve, sounds great. I was not sure if the international membership fee is the same as for the US. Thanks Tom
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