protrash63

I just got done reading the power steering gear box rebuild thread and it played in nicely with this decision. I decided I wanted to get the suspension in order first because having a good stance is important to me and then motivates me to keep pushing things. Also, having multiple projects going sometimes I just need to save time. So, with that in mind and the fact that rear suspension bushings are 75bucks apiece, tear out and recondition old trailing arms, etc...remove and press in bushings, reassemble, I went with the BCFab link kit.....took awhile to get but it is a beauty. It is made for air ride but I will use it for springs....shouldnt be hard to come up with a mounting solution. So check it out....

Well, first of all Id like to thank JDriv for contacting me about his parts car. Super nice guy and a great story about how he's kept the car rollin'. When I discovered the engine torn up I also posted a wanted ad on the local Craigslist and within days of JDriv I got a response on C/L which I thought was a long shot. Well, about one mile from my house a guy had a 66 wildcat with a 65 401 and switch pitch ST400 sitting in it. The engine turns but dont know much beyond that. Brought it home and spent the day trying to clean it up for the discriminating viewers on this forum. 6 cans of engine degreaser, gallon of purple power, and numerous blasts with the pressure washer we are left with this mess. Not sure what direction this will take but now I have some options.

Mostly using the force and under car ninja-like skills. 😎 Some interesting updates coming soon....

Ok, one more pic jus cuz its cool...we like cars, right?

I pressure washed it when I dragged it home but the stuff is in the frame rails and stuck in corners and on top of the trans x member...then you start banging on things with the impact and some big fans blowing.....gets ugly!! On another note, these kits are getting hard to find! I upgrade all my vehicles braking systems. Let me know what ms/cyl you've used if you have gone to the dual circuit system.

Continuing to tear this thing apart cuz doing that is basically free! LOL Have the drivetrain freed up from the chassis and got the exhaust unbolted last night. Car has a newish idler arm with Jamco cast in it. Cool! Only ate a dozen or so rat turds while crawling around under it. More updates soon.

I have used the Thermo Tec Cool It bulk rolls to insulate floors and firewalls in my projects. Its relatively affordable for bulk rolls (60x36 roughly? memory) and is easy to work with. I plot out my area and lay it out on the roll then use a straightedge and utility knife to cut out the shapes. Peel and stick. I have sometimes had to bolster the adhesive with some 3M spray to get it on well but it could be lack of clean surfaces. I use handles of screwdrivers or other tools to press it down in grooves and corners. Works great.

Hey Riv, the engine matches the vin. I checked that awhile ago and some of the disappointment about the engine was that it was junk. Thought it would be nice to keep the family together! 😄 The engine was originally red or orange...it showed up thru the blue paint when I blasted the carb. There is red overspray on the trans bellhousing area. No sign of the blk/silver combo. Thought I did post that plate on the first page...is there another? I will add that I believe that the ac components have been changed at some point; just had that feeling???

I just went to 'rules' at the top of the page and it doesn't specifically say who acts in that function, although things can be deleted by someone.

........I pulled the fuel pump out last nite and the arm stayed inside the housing/waterpump area. I thought 'it must be a Buick thing' until I pulled on it hard. Found it broke the arm when it ground to a halt. New one for me!!

Well, no place for broken engines......starting to tear stuff apart and pretty amazed at how easily everything is coming apart, my back included! Im not used to hanging over engines I guess. Here we are so far....

Bringing this TTT.......any updates, how did it go, thread links?

Just saw a set on Ebay an hour ago...didnt look too closely so dont know whats in the kit.

I looked into fixing ammeters in my Chevy trucks and this explanation makes sense. You want all the load to be on one side so the gauge will show if the system is charging or being drained. NOTE: I decided not to fix any!! lol

If the car has been sitting (inactive) it may need a radiator flush, and again check the coolant flow in the radiator. 'not efficient' = inoperative? I think you figured it out.... automatic trans fluid (ATF)....do not overfill. Glad you are getting it sorted out!

Philip, Congratulations on it firing up and running!! Always good!! I would check the coolant level again to make sure its totally full. Temperature gauge working? Run it with the cap off and make sure the thermostat opens and water is flowing though the radiator. A new cap is inexpensive. FILL the Transmission before running it more!!!!!

PM sent, thank you.

Im aware of this...I have a 200-4r from another vehicle that may get put to use in this eventually. I believe the adapter kits solve most of these fitment issues. I researched Rivs for about a year and understand the many pitfalls of all the rear steer, oil pan, trans, engine swap x-member swap scenarios... thanks for the reminder.

........no such luck. The #3 rod cap came loose/bolt broke. The rod is jammed in the #4 bore with the cap visible. Bearings were in the pan, oil gallery was taken out along with the bottom of the #3 cylinder to the inboard side. What sucks is there was a 401 for sale when I bought this thing and I didnt want to pick up another engine when I hadn't had time to look this one over. Kinda regretting that now, but it will work itself out in the end. Anybody willing to pop for the 3400 dollar 425 core on Evil bay? LOL Dont think I'm there yet.

Pic please...not familiar with this but there must be something that could be done.

If you look to the left of the 'lowest' broken piece of cam ahead of the journal you can see a glint of light off the rod piece or cap under the cam. First thing I saw once I got the cam outta the way.

Well, Telriv got my curiosity up and I went out and looked again. As I mentioned I was mezmorized by the broken cam. Pried out a cam piece near the journal and sure enough there is a rod under there with the cap gone and bearing pieces in the pan. In Buick speak, I think its #3 cylinder( second back on the pass side) is blown out due to the rod going on a joy ride thru whatever it came in contact. Looks like Ill be needing a block. Good thing I dont have to drive it to work tomorrow!! lol

Dont like the sounds of that but its where I gave up this afternoon. I was hoping that the timing chain broke. That cam is jammed in there pretty well with the valve springs still pushing down on it. I'll slowly start pulling the heads off. I'll update when I get to screwing around with it at some point.

I agree.

........matter of fact, I was so enthralled with the broken cam I didnt see the bent pushrod until I posted the picture.