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HEllo so i cleaned the valves, the walls 5 et 7, changed cylinder gasket and i started the engine !! YES !🙂 the engine is running and I will do the compressions again later (the carburetor is new rebuilt) little problems : - the cooling system rises to pressure > i think that it simply the cap radiator is not efficient or ??? i will change it to confirm this state - the transmission is not efficient but there isn't oil in (OIL REMOVED for transport US to FRANCE) so security before efficient transmission ? perhaps wiring neutral switch ? strato switch not efficient ? IF YOU have test for me i take !;) Regard pHILIP

here the best pictures of cylinder 3 and 4 on the right i have rust but it is therefore thin surface layer Does it interfere with cylinder compression?

hello i will go wednesday to a garage specialized for american cars with my photos on walls cylinder and will show the 2 head cylinder i think to pass the 2 head cylinder and valves to unleaded petrol see you philippe

water ?? the car was stopped during 7 years... my question is : IS IT important the top of cylinder corroded in 3 and 4 ? CAN I i clean it with a phosphorus-based product for example or sand the top with a very thin sandpaper (over 1500) ? I would like to keep this original motor please those walls ?

here the pictures of right side - 4 photography 1-2-3-4 the 3 and 4 cylinder are corroded at the top... is it serious ? Or can i clean it with a phosphorus-based product for example or sand the top with a very thin sandpaper (over 1500) ? the 4 clinders in left side are in best state as the one cylinder in right side

I just retry the cylinder head right here the photographies the first valve in cylinder 1 (where there is compression) is in good aspect the others (where there is low compression or nothing) are dirty and some, very dirty, were allowed to pass they are easily cleaned - the inside of the cylinders looks good and the oil deposited on it remains when i turn the crankshaft it seems good and no trace in cylinders i think that it is a good news ! it seems really at odometer 50000 miles

thank you Tom i have a confusion : the number were for the valve stem : exhaust top 0.372 below 0.3715 - intake valve top 3.73 and below 0.372 sorry and there is hydraulic lifters it seems...

hello for the top this valve SEALS are good ? i'm not sure i just received the 3/8 but they fit easily at the base...grrrr i think that the model diameter 11/32 is best as oldsmobile or big block ford performance on my buick 1966 i have the engine 425 what do you think ? and I SAWN THAT THE 16 valves are identical at the top (intake or exhaust) as the picture of valve so i don't understand when you tell me that the seal 3/8-.531 is only for intake ???

Hello Please, can you tell me how to test the oil pump on my riviera 1966 (engine 425) ? > PEOPLE told me that the pump is often deficient and it can cause problem on engine if it is deficient :( i have to start my engine shortly... Thank you for yours answers ! Philippe

I JUST received my refurbished carburetor 7026240 https://unitedcarb.com/products/rochester-4mc-1966-buick it is transmitted with 2 gaskets : one high-temp composite gasket and one stainless steel shield i think that i have to put the composite gasket on the intake manifold then the stainless then the carburetor ...is it exact ? I SAWN THIS fitting here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c1-and-c2-corvettes/1978466-q-jet-carb-base-gasket-tech-info-the-hot-slot-manifold-problem.html A common mistake when installing a Q-Jet on a 1966-1970 GM V8 is that the “mechanic” uses a 1971 – 1980 carb base gasket. This results in severe exhaust gas ingestion into the intake manifold, external exhaust leaks on the driver’s side of the carb base, and possible carb base damage and engine damage from detonation. Early Rochester QuadraJet Carburetor installations (1966-1969) often used a “hot slot” exhaust groove that runs from side-to-side in the intake manifold just forward of the primary throttle bores, popularly known as the “smiley face” manifolds. The purpose of this “smiley face hot slot” was to run hot exhaust gasses under the carb to provide fuel pre-heat on cold days. The hot gasses would heat up a stainless steel plate, and the carb was bolted directly to this stainless plate for good heat transfer. Chevy used this design on ’66-’68 327/300hp, ’68 327/350hp, and ’66-’69 427/390hp Corvette engines, and Pontiac used it on their '67 4-barrel engines. There are several problems with this arrangement: 1. A hot carb with hot fuel may run very well on cold mornings in Minnesota, but this arrangement does not run well on hot summer nights in Southern California. 2. A carb bolted directly to a steel shield is highly prone to vacuum leaks between the carb and the shield. 3. Any leak in the gasket arrangement results in exhaust gas ingestion directly into the intake manifold, which leads to poor engine performance and the possibility of engine damage if the leak becomes severe. 4. Since the “hot slot” was only used for a few years, there is a high probability of “mechanics” installing the incorrect carb base gasket (late model style), resulting in exhaust gas ingestion into the manifold and external exhaust leaks due to the incorrectly-fitting late-model base gasket. To solve this problem, you need to use a special 3-piece carb base gasket “kit” for the “hot slot” manifolds. There are no parts stores who recognize the existence of such a gasket kit, so you have to create your own (I am no longer offering these for sale). Here is a typical cast iron Chevy “hot slot” “smiley face” manifold. The slot was also used on the aluminum Chevy Big Block manifolds, ’66-’68 327, and on 1967 Pontiacs. The “hot slot” is the long groove running from side to side just forward of the small primary throttle bores.

ok thank you it will be easier that upper...

hello i have a question on suspension lower ball join ON riviera 1966;) The upper ball join is welded. It is the same thing for lower ball join please ? Because it is very hard to remove. thank you for your answer ! philip

ok thank you all !!! for this answers !!🙂

1/4 OR 1/2 ?

I have removed the cover and accessed at the timing chain How tension is applicated on the chain please ? Because I find it relaxed. Do you have a tip to check this tension without tool please ? Thank you philip

ok jon ! thank you for this answer !

OTHER QUESTION : my carburetor is very old (Joint plane corroded by rust) and it is impossible to open the first barell (rust) and i must change it is a 7026240 rochester 4mc is it possible to change with a rochester 7042252 for oldsmobile 72/74 engine 455 ? it is the same model rochester 4mc BUT there are little difference : - gas bracket - out filter here the pictures i sawn a cheaper rochester 7042252 to sold ! thank very much you for your answers ! i'm waiting the the specialists ! philippe

yes there are plenty !! thanks

i have a question : Do you need absolutly 2 parallel belts to power the compressor?

bravo for this excellent job !!!🙂

here my job for new construction driver door panel - self-adhesive foam UXCELL 5mm in rubber (to reconstitute the thickness before the vinyl coating) - vinyl type Buulqo 0.6mm for recouvrement - black carpet for door panel bottom - a panel ISOREL - NEOPRENE GLUE HERE SEVERALS PICTURES

yes it is vaccum source accessory as you tell it is a answer> thank you for your photography !!☺️ i haven't trunk lock and door lock

i have a lot of pictures of chassis service manual 1966 it is on the left on carburetor as picture joined and it is vaccum outlet OK