Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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Except for maybe tack strips, the front posts (the part the door mounts to) on the Ford Model A are metal. If you are looking for the metal post, you would more than likely need to graft that part in rather than find a drawing of them. If you know the exact part number, you might be able to find a drawing of it in the Benson files, if it is a Ford produced body not Murray or Briggs bodies.
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The OP added a photo of the car in question and here is my last post on Facebook about it;
Thanks! That clears up a lot of miss information. It is a touring car. There is nothing "winter or sedan" about it. Looks like maybe the front header bow is there, so you are missing the clamps that hold the top to the windshield post? If the front bow needs replacing, chances are the others may need replacing too. New replacements will require fitting to the sockets, they would not be just drop in and go. Even if you did find a used replacement bow with sockets attached, chances are it would need work before using. Old nail holes plugged etc. How is the tack rail around the rear upper body? Chances are it too will need the old nail holes plugged before using. I would suggest rescheduling having the top put on. In my opinion, you may be jumping the gun on that front. The parts you will need are for 1919-1922 slant windshield touring. How are the wheels and tires, does it run/drive, have you gotten the paperwork in your name?
The OP is scheduled to have a new top installed in about a months' time, so is under a time crunch.
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Hi! Great you found your way over here. You might also post in the Dodge Brothers section down below.
Dodge & Dodge Brothers - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)
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Not like changing the polarity in a generator. This is actually rebuilding the magnet strength keeping the same polarity. Depending on engine speed, the magneto output can be anywhere from 0 to 30+ volts AC.
The plugs are fired off the coils just like any car with a single coil/points setup. Charge is built up in the primary winding, electromagnetic force opening the points when the charge reaches about 1.5 amps in the primary, dumped into the secondary windings and fires the plug. It's just that there are 4 coils and 4 sets of points instead of single coil and points on cars with a distributor.
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If you get the number(s) and can't find them, check with either of the above for the bearings. Didn't check ROMARS but Myers does list them. Depending on their condition, might want to get a new tabbed lock washer and the washer that goes behind the nut.
RE pulling the gear: You might ask down in the Dodge Brothers section. Better chance of someone that has been there before seeing it.
I have not tried pulling one yet.
Just went down and looked at the couple I have, should be able to just press off or use a gear puller. Could be when he was applying heat, the shaft it fits onto was expanding more or at the same rate as the gear, so could still be binding. Maybe try cold.
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Tractor wouldn't have anywhere for that to mount. Most Fordsons used a cross drive when fitting the magneto that was driven off the end of the camshaft. The OD of the gear and the locating boss behind it look too big to fit in place of the generator, along with the mounting hole placement for it to be Ford Model T. Rotate the housing 45 degrees counter clockwise for proper orientation on the Model T engine.
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Some caps like this were made with set-screws to hold it on the radiator neck. One cap could fit a number of different necks. If the cap is threaded, that could narrow it down.
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What is wrong with the one you have? From another post, that style is not real common anyway. If it is like the earlier ones after you take it out, you should be able to remove the back and take a look at what is going on with it. It might have 3 tabs that will need to be bent up or 3 pins. The 3 pin type, push down on the back and turn. (Don't forget to disconnect the battery first)
You might want to also post down in the Dodge Brothers section.
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All those wonderful cars and I find myself drawn to the one with the corrugated iron roof along with the two convert ones!
Thank you for posting. Forget about Sun birding in Arrizon, how about down under!
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If I understand correctly, you are in Australia with righthand drive? If so, are you running magneto or distributor? That might make a difference which switch you need.
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Should have a Stewart updraft. This is a link to a post here that will at least show what it looks like:
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Nice looking car to clean up, make safe to drive keep as is.
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You do have the lens and trim ring off? If so, the socket for the bulb should be a sliding fit in the reflector. You will need to also remove the bulb and reflector to get that spring back into place between the socket and lamp body.
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There is a Facebook page for these type cars.
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Think these are the guys I was trying to remember the other day.
Believe they do some speed work.
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It could be a house key, interior or exterior door. Known as a skeleton key.
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9 minutes ago, alsfarms said:
If I am not wrong, the pre "Fast four" engines out out about 30-35 HP? The stock Model T put out about 20-25 HP? The stock Fast Four put out 35-40 HP? A Model A put out 35-40 HP?
Al
T was a little less than 20, but otherwise those number look about right.
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Yes, David is. I have driven a few Ford Model T's that he took videos of for listings on eBay.
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Also keep in mind that grease and oil will kill the action of the Evaporust so parts should be as grease and oil free as you can get them first. Also, it will not remove paint, so any rust under the paint might not get converted. I am thinking those wire springs on the adjusters, the bent ends would have acted as locks to keep the segment gears from turning after adjusting. The one is under the segmented gear, think that is the proper place.
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Good news! Thanks for the update, I had been wondering what the outcome would be.
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The generator is mounted in the location where the distributor assembly would have mounted. The car would have used a distributor mounted in the casting just behind the pulley.
Taking a stab at this; guessing that if the casting for the magneto were removed, the hole might be there to fit a distributor into and may have used the North East 10786 TU for left hand drive and 10786-A TU for right hand drive. I believe this model was only used for a short time, between the side mounted distributors shown above and the through the head type. Those are the numbers listed in the NE catalog for 1926 to date, the catalog being 1927 issue.
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Rotated the image.
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Thank you for posting. Forget about Sun birding in Arrizon, how about down under! 
Transmission, you name it and you own it.
in What is it?
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Not Dodge Brothers. Early DB's did have cone clutches but bellhousing was aluminum and had the transmission case cast as part of it, they looked about the same as your 23 or the one in the picture, background.