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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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Did they use any copper coat sealant that you can see looking at the seam? I retorque heads several times after going through several hot/cold cycles.
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12 hours ago, RAH said:
Guys, I was considering adding turn signals for my '28 Dodge Brothers Cabriolet and disliked the idea of running 4 wires All over the chassis. I decided on a variation of the European side light idea. That requires only One wire for each light and snakes across the inside of the dash and slips back under the door sill and up behind the side upholstery panels.
I started with a truck style fender marker light, discarded those sticking out lenses, and created a pattern and cast a pair of flat lenses for each of the lights ( one for each side). I am using a vintage turn signal switch that has L , R and Hazard (both), lights. A machinist friend turned the pedestal mounting posts from stainless steel. I built These in Homage to something that could look like it could have been available in the period. ENJOY!
Nice job. However, I am going to say that if you are going to put turn signals on a car, they should be where people expect to see them, two at the rear and two at the front, not hidden in the middle of the car and that low where they would only be visible with the viewer being directly in line with them. In practice, bet people getting in will be grabbing them to help get in.
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Defiantly post in the Dodge Brothers section down below. There are a number of guys that live in New Zealand and Australia that might have more experience with magnetos that post in that section. Which magneto does your car have? It might have number one indicated on the cap.
Unless fitted later, don't think any came with the impulse coupler, not shown in the 1914-1927 parts catalog.
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Ford Model A parking brake.
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What is that black goop? "I put electrical tape around the center hub cap to try to cushion it from the wrench."
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Think someone miss typed a lot of the bolt size.
114-20 = 1/4-20
5116-18 = 5/16-18
etc
the J should be a /.
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The production numbers apply to all cars and trucks. The numbers on the frame started after the introduction of the 1926 improved cars. TT's are the red headed stepchildren when it comes to information, not a lot of info out there. Don't know if the frame was ever stamped or not for the TT's. If it has two bolts mounting ears to back of block and wide low and brake pedal, it is a 1926 up block.
This link is to the Model T Ford Club of America online encyclopedia. While it is only a partial list by month, the breakdown by date is in Burce's book.
Serial Numbers - Model T Ford Club of America (mtfca.com)
I have looked at the Ford page here, not much action so spend my time on the MTFCA or Facebook pages. Think there is an announcement at the top of the page here directing people to the MTFCA page.
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You might get more response if you put what make and year you are working on in the title per the STOP and READ at the top of this section.
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What condition is the engine itself in? I remember someone asking about the same issue, come to find out the engine had been rebuilt and was setup too tight, so starter was stalling out under the same conditions.
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Are you talking about the starter/generator or does it have a later engine installed that uses the sperate starter? The 1925 would have the starter/generator as a single unit. AKA Silent starter.
If the starter/generator; you are using 12 volt positive ground hook up?
Have you had your battery tested or checked? Even new batteries can be bad.
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Pretty sure I have seen his listings on eBay. Thanks for that link.
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Dodge Brothers did the same thing up to around 1921.
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3 hours ago, baper.da.cow said:
That's a weird glitch.
Yes it is! Big bummer when you are trying to help someone.
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I have tried fixing people photos before and when posting them, they ended up the same as what I was trying to help fix.
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If the car is titled, I go online to the DMV and fill out the paperwork showing the new owner etc. and print copies. I don't wait to mail it in. What they do with it after it leaves my property is on them.
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Thanks! It was not meant to be funny, just pointing out to a newby to this site, that as a guest they would never see your post.
Still need to know if you are working on a DB or other brand? Your other post is non specific as to what brand of car you need it for. Knowing that, may help us point you in the right direction.
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You are asking someone that logged in as a guest over 20 years ago. The OP is not going to see this and good chance they never came back after posting. They signed up as a guest so were never registered.
Is this for a Dodge Brothers or other brand?
His other post:
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You might want to reach out to the Model A section over on Fordbarn.com. They have a very active Model A group over there. You could link it back to this post so anyone that could help could contact you.
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Real early double pumper! I was also thinking the fuel chamber looked homemade.
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14 minutes ago, AHa said:
This chassis has a hand brake lever outside the frame on the right hand side. That would make it a 13-15 frame. Most cars had left hand, center drive by 1915. Also, this frame has a battery box, which puts it later than 1911.
Not if it was sold in a righthand drive country or parts of Canada. Note that there are holes in the same place on the other side of the top rail for the parking brake lever.
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I have a lead on the hood hooks.
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Could have oil on the points from manufacturing. Try cleaning the points. Which points are you using, modern or A style? Do you have the pigtail running from base to points plate? Do you have voltage to the points, do they spark when you break contact?
RE the suggestion to look at post on Fordbarn.com: There is a very active group in the Model A section on the site (maybe one of the better sites for Model A questions). If you have not, I would suggest going over there and take a look.
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Besides the one in the car, I have 3 more in different states of disassembly along with an aluminum one that was cut off behind the bell to use as a stationary power plant.
Timer
in What is it?
Posted
Here is the 115 volt type: Cramer Model A Interval Timer 115V 60CV 10 Amp Type TD-1c – TZSupplies.com