Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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What condition is the engine itself in? I remember someone asking about the same issue, come to find out the engine had been rebuilt and was setup too tight, so starter was stalling out under the same conditions.
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Are you talking about the starter/generator or does it have a later engine installed that uses the sperate starter? The 1925 would have the starter/generator as a single unit. AKA Silent starter.
If the starter/generator; you are using 12 volt positive ground hook up?
Have you had your battery tested or checked? Even new batteries can be bad.
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Pretty sure I have seen his listings on eBay. Thanks for that link.
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Dodge Brothers did the same thing up to around 1921.
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3 hours ago, baper.da.cow said:
That's a weird glitch.
Yes it is! Big bummer when you are trying to help someone.
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I have tried fixing people photos before and when posting them, they ended up the same as what I was trying to help fix.
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If the car is titled, I go online to the DMV and fill out the paperwork showing the new owner etc. and print copies. I don't wait to mail it in. What they do with it after it leaves my property is on them.
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Thanks! It was not meant to be funny, just pointing out to a newby to this site, that as a guest they would never see your post.
Still need to know if you are working on a DB or other brand? Your other post is non specific as to what brand of car you need it for. Knowing that, may help us point you in the right direction.
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You are asking someone that logged in as a guest over 20 years ago. The OP is not going to see this and good chance they never came back after posting. They signed up as a guest so were never registered.
Is this for a Dodge Brothers or other brand?
His other post:
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You might want to reach out to the Model A section over on Fordbarn.com. They have a very active Model A group over there. You could link it back to this post so anyone that could help could contact you.
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Real early double pumper!
I was also thinking the fuel chamber looked homemade.
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14 minutes ago, AHa said:
This chassis has a hand brake lever outside the frame on the right hand side. That would make it a 13-15 frame. Most cars had left hand, center drive by 1915. Also, this frame has a battery box, which puts it later than 1911.
Not if it was sold in a righthand drive country or parts of Canada.
Note that there are holes in the same place on the other side of the top rail for the parking brake lever.
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I have a lead on the hood hooks.
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Could have oil on the points from manufacturing. Try cleaning the points. Which points are you using, modern or A style? Do you have the pigtail running from base to points plate? Do you have voltage to the points, do they spark when you break contact?
RE the suggestion to look at post on Fordbarn.com: There is a very active group in the Model A section on the site (maybe one of the better sites for Model A questions). If you have not, I would suggest going over there and take a look.
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Need 2 hood hold downs for my 1920. Rusty ok but need to have good springs inside. Also need nice hood/bonnet for same car. Mine is really pretty bad. For the hood, would like to find on west coast because of shipping cost. Thanks
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Besides the one in the car, I have 3 more in different states of disassembly along with an aluminum one that was cut off
behind the bell to use as a stationary power plant.
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On 2/6/2012 at 6:08 AM, Restorer32 said:
Excuse me, their value was immeasurable. Their PRICE was very low.
Depends on one's income how low they were! I have seen some copies of Horseless Carriage Gazettes from the 40's -50's and you needed to be in a more upper income bracket to afford some of the cars listed there.
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Not Dodge Brothers. Early DB's did have cone clutches but bellhousing was aluminum and had the transmission case cast as part of it, they looked about the same as your 23 or the one in the picture, background.
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Except for maybe tack strips, the front posts (the part the door mounts to) on the Ford Model A are metal. If you are looking for the metal post, you would more than likely need to graft that part in rather than find a drawing of them. If you know the exact part number, you might be able to find a drawing of it in the Benson files, if it is a Ford produced body not Murray or Briggs bodies.
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The OP added a photo of the car in question and here is my last post on Facebook about it;
Thanks! That clears up a lot of miss information. It is a touring car. There is nothing "winter or sedan" about it. Looks like maybe the front header bow is there, so you are missing the clamps that hold the top to the windshield post? If the front bow needs replacing, chances are the others may need replacing too. New replacements will require fitting to the sockets, they would not be just drop in and go. Even if you did find a used replacement bow with sockets attached, chances are it would need work before using. Old nail holes plugged etc. How is the tack rail around the rear upper body? Chances are it too will need the old nail holes plugged before using. I would suggest rescheduling having the top put on. In my opinion, you may be jumping the gun on that front. The parts you will need are for 1919-1922 slant windshield touring. How are the wheels and tires, does it run/drive, have you gotten the paperwork in your name?
The OP is scheduled to have a new top installed in about a months' time, so is under a time crunch.
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Hi! Great you found your way over here. You might also post in the Dodge Brothers section down below.
Dodge & Dodge Brothers - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)
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Not like changing the polarity in a generator. This is actually rebuilding the magnet strength keeping the same polarity. Depending on engine speed, the magneto output can be anywhere from 0 to 30+ volts AC.
The plugs are fired off the coils just like any car with a single coil/points setup. Charge is built up in the primary winding, electromagnetic force opening the points when the charge reaches about 1.5 amps in the primary, dumped into the secondary windings and fires the plug. It's just that there are 4 coils and 4 sets of points instead of single coil and points on cars with a distributor.
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If you get the number(s) and can't find them, check with either of the above for the bearings. Didn't check ROMARS but Myers does list them. Depending on their condition, might want to get a new tabbed lock washer and the washer that goes behind the nut.
RE pulling the gear: You might ask down in the Dodge Brothers section. Better chance of someone that has been there before seeing it.
I have not tried pulling one yet.
Just went down and looked at the couple I have, should be able to just press off or use a gear puller. Could be when he was applying heat, the shaft it fits onto was expanding more or at the same rate as the gear, so could still be binding. Maybe try cold.
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Tractor wouldn't have anywhere for that to mount. Most Fordsons used a cross drive when fitting the magneto that was driven off the end of the camshaft. The OD of the gear and the locating boss behind it look too big to fit in place of the generator, along with the mounting hole placement for it to be Ford Model T. Rotate the housing 45 degrees counter clockwise for proper orientation on the Model T engine.
I was also thinking the fuel chamber looked homemade. 
T head aluminum piston projects, Wisconsin and Locomobile
in Technical
Posted · Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
You might get more response if you put what make and year you are working on in the title per the STOP and READ at the top of this section.