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Mark Gregush

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Posts posted by Mark Gregush

  1. 7 hours ago, Jack Bennett said:

    My 1923 Dodge Roadster has a braided string fan belt. The one I got when I bought the car might be NOS as it is still in perfect condition. Because I wanted to ensure the water pump was being powered by a belt which provided the most traction, I bought a flat, rubber, nearly exact replacement belt from McGuire Bearing, and it works perfect……and the cloth belt is stored with the tool kit in the cars trunk.

    Jack

    Fan belt does not turn the water pump. It just turns the fan...In this case it really is a "fan belt"! 

  2. I use flaps in my T clinchers. As was touched on above, many newer tires do not close up at the center like the old ones. Also, I have found that some of the tubes that are marked 30X3-1/2 really are not, they run smaller so devil of a time keeping the tube in the tire while installing. 

    Rim liners and flaps are not the same thing. Some people confuse the two. Liners go on the rim before the tire/tube, flaps go in the tire and hold the tube in place. Split rims should have flaps, clinchers are up to you. 

    In any case, use plenty of talc when installing. Talc is a mineral; I stay away from corn starch. Do an online search, except for shipping cost, not that expensive.  tire talc - Google Search

    There has to be a reason they don't sell "baby powder/corn starch" for installing tube type tires. :)

  3. 1 hour ago, stakeside said:

    I removed my shaft and had excessive corrosion on the shaft. Repacking did help but water pump still leaked. Make sure you grease the grease fitting well.

    That is the biggest issue with the old steel shafts, rust and corrosion. Using stainless steel shafting is the way to go because no amout of packing will stop the leaks if the shaft is not smooth. 

     

    Re seeing anti-freeze, that's because it's green or orange so you see it. The clear water just evaporates so it fools you into thinking it is leaking less. Ma-Ha-Ha

     

    • Like 2
  4. 29 minutes ago, Todd Puzey said:

    Thanks for the advice gents.

    when you guys suggest a new 12v coil, are you meaning a modern canister coil, or a new restoration style original coil.

    For me, with unrestored 1920, modern. Mine sits in the housing that the old coil was fitted into. Guess that depends on which way you want to go. :)

  5. 4 hours ago, nat said:

         I think Mark meant to say "built in resistor".  Without that the points will fry.  

         Try a new 12V coil, (with a resistor if the coil doesn't have one built in), and see if that brings you any closer to motoring bliss.

    Fixed my post. Yes resistor. :)

  6. You can't just change the gear on the cover, you have to change the gear on the sliding gear shaft too. Left and right hand drive setups use different tooth counts pitches and go different directions. One angles to left the other to the right when you look at them. 

     

    • Like 1
  7. RE bolts through spokes into drum, MPL shows start starting serial # in very early January 1920 at 434412 over lapping to 436468, with a notation of 12588 (DB part# of the bolt but no picture) for cars above 490734 (later June/July 1920).

    I read the 490734 date wrong last night and changed it.

    I had originally miss understood the dates of when the bolts through the spokes started and thought the ones on my car (440XXX) were wrong. Going back and seeing when they started, would indicate that they might be correct. 

     

    • Like 1
  8. 9 minutes ago, dodge28 said:

    swab you are right. Old cars on the road itself is a distraction. I myself, while driving, and I see an old car driving along I try to get closer to have a better look. But I keep it safe. A third brake light is good but all lights must be at a reasonable height to be visible Matt, and bright.

    There are a lot of people on the road that don't see them or misjudge their speed. The shape of them or color just does not register as a car. 

    I added a 3rd brake light to my 1920 Dodge touring. It is mounted at the top bolt that would hold the spare tire bracket, along with two taillights. Turn signals to come later. 

    • Like 1
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