Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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From his other post, he is missing the tank. As in, it was lost.
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Does the float have any liquid inside? Do you have a scale that you can compare weights? Is it brass, mine are?
You could do the hot water test. Clean and put in a pot of water, bring the water just up to a simmer and look for air bubbles coming out of it.
Does it sink with the engine off? Or is it sinking with the engine running? Running, the oil level in the pan does go down some, mine drops quite a bit.
Try putting 5 qts of oil in, 4 isn't enough, book says 5-6 qts.
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Depends on if they are cracked or just surface checked and how pliable the rubber is. If the rubber is still pliable and just surface checked, I would have no problem using them.
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There were a number of American makes that used the "French" style hood along with the Mack Bulldog.
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If you are not hung up on new and shiny, Facebook Marketplace.
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Smokstak is a great place to ask questions about engines like this: Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines | Smokstak® Antique Engine Community
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The idea of the 3rd brake light in the rear window came out in the late 20's or early 30's. The sample I saw in a Model A book from the era, used a Neon bulb. While I don't have all the details, pretty sure that there are some upgrades allowed even in Ford Model A fine points judging that points are not deducted, such as cast-Iron brake drums and adding 2ed taillight.
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My catalog only goes to 1926/27, would guess it would be for the 2 models I posted, the one mounted at the end of the shaft off the water pump.
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While I had a lot more then 3 dead mice, most of my smell was from the seats. The truck is unrestored so after removing the seats and vacuuming as well as I could, I sprayed/soaked everything down that I could with Hydroperoxide then a weak bleach solution. I would not recommend any of what I did for a restored car, the bleach solution could/would reck havoc on the fabric. I don't know how well it will work in the end but the smell might dissipate over time.
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Looks to be the same picture in both posts. The parts book shows it as a 10062 without the 50 in front of it. For 10004 (might fit 10000 also) NE distributor, Horizontal Gear and Advance Weigt Collar.
1918 1919 1920 1921 1922 1923 1924 25 1926 DODGE GRAHAM BROS DRIVE GEAR 5010062 | eBay
OFFERED FOR SALE: 1918 1919 1920 1921 1922 1923 1924 25 1926 DODGE GRAHAM BROS DRIVE GEAR 5010062 DESCRIPTION: THIS IS A NEW DRIVE GEAR. NORTH EAST # 5010062 PLEASE SEE MULTIPLE PHOTOS FOR THE BEST DESCRIPTION. APPLICATIONS: 1918 - 1926 DODGE BROTHERS 1918 - 1926 GRAHAM BROTHERS -
Besides the 1920 Dodge and 1925 T pickup I have, there are a couple (or more I just don't know about) within a few miles (North Portland) of me. Besides AACA page there are also 2 pretty good Facebook Dodge Brothers groups. One of the two FB is connected to the Dodge Brothers Club. The DBC stores their printed matter in the AACA library. Copys of that material can be gotten from them.
If you have any questions, posting in the Dodge Brothers section \|/ here or on one of the 2 Facebook groups, should get the help you need.
Mark
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I see a Ford Model T behind it.
Nice looking DB touring. If you have not got a copy yet, suggest getting copy of the MECHANICS' INSTRUCTION MANUAL. Dodge Repair Manual 1926 1925 1924 1923 1922 1921 1920 1919 1918 1917 1916 1915 | eBay
Dodge & Dodge Brothers - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)
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ROMAR or Myers should but also check MacMaster Carr. They have the woven lining with the brass thread woven in by the foot.
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32 minutes ago, nat said:
Was the key missing as well?
Must have been or sheared. Don't recall.
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He got the overheating fixed. What it was: the shaft was turning but the impeller was not. The pin was missing.
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On 6/3/2023 at 1:26 PM, TerryB said:
Seems odd that a car belonging to a US Rubber exec would have mismatched and bald tires. May have been WWII as mentioned or the car was at the end of its use.
If was during WW2, could have doing their part for the war effort.
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1 hour ago, nat said:
Sometime after my first reply it dawned on me that ignition switches are specific to magneto, (off connects ignition to ground), or coil, (off disconnects power to coil). My U.S. manual tries not to mention the "M" word.
Your first post suggest that you have a coil switch in a magneto car.
If that's the case, put a hidden switch behind the dash that will connect the magneto terminal to ground.
I have the correct switch for my coil ignition but am too conservative, (AKA; cheap), to buy a DB89 key so I put a switch behind the dash and connected the switched side of that to the instrument light to let me know that the ignition is on.
Me too but...Dodge Graham Maxwell key 1917 1918 1919 1920 1921 1922 1923 CLUM switch key | eBay
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lol I just have to remember which car/truck I am driving. My 48 Ford F2 with 3 speed on the floor, low and reverse are switched.
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3 hours ago, Mattml430 said:
We just repaired these for a friend’s 24 Ute. They were in a bad state when we got them
But after a couple of days work and hard labour they came up really nice. Definitely worth all the effort.
before a couple of hours in the press and sandblasting. 
After Nickle plating
mounted on the car we don’t know what they came off but they fitted nicely
We had to make the mounting brackets
Very nice!
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On 5/27/2023 at 8:10 PM, Bloo said:
Back to the matter at hand.... Has anyone brought up "punkin" yet?
Center section of a Ford Model T rearend housing.
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3 hours ago, Tom99 said:
Rust free.
Does that mean the rust comes with the car at no additional charge?
And they show a car coated in a layer of rust! lol
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Even moisture/condensation trapped in a drained engine or just using plain water in a sitting engine even can lead to what you are seeing. Yuck!
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His post on Facebook says it is a custom job/top so not original equipment.
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Early Atwater Kent?
Oil Level float.
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Ford Model T takes just under 4 qts. lol