Mark Gregush
-
Posts
1,088 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Mark Gregush
-
-
Problem with searching now on eBay for parts for example, once they started having sellers use item specifics, the sellers build one and use the same one for every listing they make. Should be just for the item they are selling, but now include every make and model of any part they might sell. Now if you look for a part, if your car is in the seller set specifics, their listing(s) gets pull up. It sucks !
-
Guess you can now say you come from "old" money like the Vanderbilt's, Rockefeller's and Morgan's!
-
2
-
-
The guides are a press fit, pushed in and out from the top. How to do it is in the "Mechanics' Instruction Manual", but the valve would either need to be cut back flush with top of the guide or removed.
With all the pounding you have been doing to remove the old valve, the guide may have moved.
The top of the valve guide should be 1-7/16 inch below the top of the block, this is important, per the instructions in the MIM.
To get the old guide out, it needs to be moved down within 1/4 inch of the lifter, scored around the upper edge with a chisel then broken off with a brass drift. Then pressed down the rest of the way. Need to be careful so as not to crack the block.
With the valve cut/ground back top and bottom, there may be room to come down without having to breaking it by removing the lifter assembly. I don't know, have not tried.
With all the grinding and cutting that have been done, you will need to give it a good clean up to remove all the metal bits.
-
Tap it up from the bottom, tap it down from the top, use plenty of penetrating oil then let it soak (not WD-40), tap it down from the top, tap it up from the bottom, rinse and repeat. Tap don't hammer and use a brass punch if you can.
-
1
-
-
The bottom of that valve looks mushroomed out. if it is, best get in there with a small file and clean it up before trying to push it up. I had to do this same thing with a Model T block, just kept working at it. Only took a chunk out of one valve guide boss.
-
Flying horse poop and pee splatter protection shield...
While yes cars have dashes, the firewall replaces the dash on a carriage in function. Only now it is grease, dirt, oil and fumes.
-
Myers http://myersearlydodge.com/ ROMAR https://romardb.com/ sell new valves.
-
The wheels are 1928/29 21 inch Ford Model A.
-
Home built modern except maybe the wheels, body and springs. The front axle is Ford Model T. There is a page on Facebook for reproductions. Many of the cars on that page are not exact replicas.
Horseless carriage replica's | Facebook
The builder may have used these plans to get some ideas.
Years later MI was still offering those plans for sale. Someplace I have/had a copy of them but have not come across my copy in maybe 20+ years.
-
2
-
-
30-31 Ford Model A, the spokes are welded not laced.
-
1
-
-
Cork Headlight Gaskets (stevesautorestorations.com)
I also noted that on the last line in the description for the gaskets, it was mentioned something about reflector re-slivering. Being in Oregon, have not bought from them, so don't know if actually silver or having them done in the Uviria Inc. 541-956-6880 process.
Uviria coats in aluminum, polishes then seal coats giving close to the same results as silver plating.
-
I have not done my head lights on the Dodge but for the Model T this is what I have used.
Model T Headlight door gasket, 6578X (modeltford.com) I have not checked to see if these are long enough.
The Model A head light uses a cork gasket, it should be long enough so it could be trimmed for length but don't offhand know what the cross-section size is. Snyder's carriers them as well as other Model A parts suppliers. I was going to post a link to Snyder's but there seems to be problems with the site. The other thing you can use is cotton rope or sash cord. Think you can get in different diameters, something like 1/8-3/16" might work. Unless someone can post the actual diameter, you might have to experiment a little to find the best fit. Whatever you use has to have some squish.
-
1
-
-
When installing the seal, just use dabs of grease to hold it in place and put the split at the bottom. The split allows condensation or moisture to drain out.
Try to stay away from silicone, the gas it gives off can tarnish the reflectors but small dabs in a few places to hold the seal might be ok, just don't overdo it.
The whole seal does not have to be glued in, just held in place till the lens/bezel is installed.
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, 3macboys said:
I sent him a PM to try to help you out. He should get an email notification.
Me too!
-
18 hours ago, atram said:
Know if this is still available?
You might send them a PM, they have not been here in 10 days so might not see this.
-
When using a punch and hammer, you generally can tell that the race is seated by the sound made when installing.
-
2
-
-
On 11/4/2022 at 5:15 PM, Marty Roth said:
I got into the habit of running a matchbook cover (showing my age?) between the contacts of the points for cars that have been sitting a period of time.
I also have a Points File here somewhere, but sometimes forget where I left it last time I used it.
I am only 66, using a matchbook is how I was shown to do it.
-
Here is a link to his post on Facebook that shows what he is looking for: Facebook
-
make sure the suppliers have them in stock before you do any cutting.
Oh..if one of the suppliers do have the removable link in stock please come back and let us know. From what I had read, they didn't, but that could have been wrong. I have a couple (not extras) that are in so-so condition but would like replacements.
-
1
-
-
The gasket would need to go between the lens and reflector. It is there to keep the reflector clean and help prevent tarnishing, they were silver plated.
-
1
-
-
With the engine running at a high idle, have you checked the output? (Positive ground by the way) You can buy a new chain but not sure about the link. Contact Myers http://myersearlydodge.com/ or ROMAR https://romardb.com/
Got to wonder how they managed that even with the gear cover off!
-
Like I said in my last post, could be boat or car. More inclined to go with car as it would be grounded through the body. The bulb socket (single contact) is not sealed where it is installed in the housing, being held in place with a set screw.
-
I missed out on the one with buggered thread. I have a tool like shown in the link, but it's too big to have gotten in that tight space. I was going to use a thread file.
-
The first photo here shows the weep hole. Putting the mounting casting on top. The lens bezel (steel) can go on either way, so don't really know which is correct. Being that the housing is aluminum, have not really decided if it is car or boat or both. The mounting bracket is also aluminum. The gasket around the glass is either glass setting gimp or old type fabric tape. Did not want to take glass section out, the tape is stuck at the center.
Ebay Motors rearranged, hard to navigate. Have you tried?
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
Whenever you do a search on eBay, type "-fits" after you type in what you are looking for. That takes all those "will fit" out of the search. That is a negative sign before the word fits.
You can build saved searches and remove a lot of the sellers that don't ever seem to have parts for your car, but even with that, gets a bit tiresome to keep adding new ones that pop up all the time.