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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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When applying power to the starter, looking at the saft end, which way does it turn, should be counterclockwise? If it turns clockwise, your best bet at this point might be to get a different starter. They are not rare or hard to find.
Here is one on eBay, if nothing else, you can compare it to what you have. Such as does the bendix match what is shown?
Model T Ford Starter 6 Volt Rebuilt Complete Ready To Install | eBay
You Tube video about rebuilding the starter, might help:
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2 hours ago, Oldtech said:
As I recall the brushes are in the end cap. if the cap is installed incorrectly, i.e 1/4 turn out, wouldn't this cause reverse rotation. Just a thought
The brush holder is riveted to the end cap and its location is set by the terminal bolt. Other than the wrong field windings being used, the other could be the wires are switched around.
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Didn't you ask this question on the Model T Ford Club of America site and got all kinds of responses? If so, as I recall the starter was rebuilt by someone a while back. In any case, why not just get another starter or fix the one you have.
Starters don't care if positive or negative ground, they turn the same way they were made to turn. If it is turning the wrong direction, someone found and fitted some weird windings. The only way to fix what you have, would be to install or have installed new field coil windings. Not something most home shops can do without some specialized tools/equipment.
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Oldtech has it. Could be filed down to set the distance. But every time the clutch was used would pull the crankshaft back and forth, wearing the holes in the pressed steel pulley till it was loose at the pin. You could still buy them up to a short time ago, don't see them listed in 2021 Langs catalog. Ok for short time fix.
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1929 or 1930 Chevrolet. Someone that knows the finer details may be able to better pinpoint it.
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I got my info from "Motor's Handbook of Specifications Interchangeable Parts Service Instructions". My RADCO Carburetor and Motor Tune-Up Manual only goes to 1930 so only lists the DC8 for that year.
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Looks to be early Kingston 5 ball air inlet from around 1909. Could be Ford Model T, could be other. It would depend on size.
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My info shows 1930.
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It's my name..'nuf said.
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Guy up in the Portland Oregon area was doing the same thing. I met him sometime around 2018 or 2019 when he asked to take photos of whatever car I was driving at the time, don't remember if it was my 48 F2 or the Model T huckster. I lost track of the blog.
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If this is the one you are talking about, it was posted in technical not what is it;
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"OTOH, the driver is posed on the street side in the OP pic." LOL Ya but they wouldn't have been able to get that nice side view from the sidewalk side and wouldn't have had much light!
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Wonder if they are after market and was cheaper to cast them with round holes instead of square?
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2 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
The wheels SHOULD be Hayes, would be 25 inch. Budd never made wire wheels that I know of, only disc wheels. If you are looking for a hubcap for the spare it is special, made of aluminum.
Thanks;
Budd is listed in the wire wheel section in the Master parts list (1914 to 1927) in the notes: "Domestic orders for Budd wire wheels or their parts should be sent direct to Budd Wheel Company.." Maybe Budd came later, don't know.
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The factory wheels were either Budd or Hayes. Best bet would be to remove one of the tires, but someone might be able to tell from a good photo. The manufacture should be stamped on inside of the felloe. Hub caps were L- or Right-hand thread. If someone has them, they would need to know. The Master parts book shows a different style hub cap then the more common wood or disk wheel hub cap for the 4 wheels and a trim type of cap for the spare tire. What size are the tires on it now?
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Pay-Pal works fine for me, but only by sending or receiving an invoice, NOT Friends and Family. You have NO protection as buyer or seller using Friends and Family. I avoid anyone that cheats the system and demands to only be paid that way, F&F. If I know the person or they have a posting track record, cash or check works too.
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On 1/18/2024 at 8:56 AM, Oldtech said:
I know Model T discussions can go on forever. It seems to me that the Ford bodied cars had the headlight bar, the bodies made by Wilson didn't. But I'm not an expert.
Ford was making open bodies. The early 1926, all body types did not have a bar that was added later in 1926. Any headlight bar seen on an early 1926 was aftermarket, not Ford supplied.
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3 posts and none have the required info in the title.
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Willy you might try adding to the actual Dodge Brothers section. Ads for early Dodge stuff kinda gets lost in the later car listings. You might also confirm if you need left- or right-hand threaded piece. Around car No 1586** there was a change from both being right-hand thread to the left side having left hand thread. Who knows what has been swapped around in the last 100 plus years.
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1 hour ago, Frank DuVal said:
You are right! ❗ I've seen the design of the screen at the top, but on those the gas INLET was in the center, so the screen was over the outlet. Yours is the opposite design. 😉
Just went out and looked. My fuel inlet is in the center. It is Model S.
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I used a Ford Model A sediment bowl screen in mine and has worked just fine.
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You can post ads on the HCCA site without being a member;
https://hcca.org/resources/classified/
LOL Never mind, looks like you have done that already.
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No he did not influence me, but I did get most of my mechanical skills from him. Most all the cars he owned were out of necessity/price not as a collector. Back in the 70s, I was looking to buy a Model A, he talked me out of everyone we went to look at. He didn't see what I saw. He just saw a pile of parts (basket cases), I saw a running car.
My grandfather had a shop in Spokane Washington back in the mid to late teens, worked on Model T's, that was more the influence that led me to T's.
Model A Ford 2 tooth steering shaft alignment question (modifying for 27 Model T Speedster)
in Technical
Posted
Are your turning the box 90 degrees and doing cross steer or mounting the box the normal direction and using the Model A steering arms?