Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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the bumpers are 30/31 Ford, the spring leaf (front) could be A or T depending on how wide and long it is.
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22 hours ago, human-potato_hybrid said:
Reverse the polarity of the field windings without changing the armature setup, or vice versa, and you will correct this issue.
Reversing the polarity is for a generator to realign the residual magnetism when changing the ground. Starters like used in the Model T or A, don't care what way the current flows, they still turn the same direction as built. There are 4 brushes used, two receive power from the battery and 2 are return path, grounded. Pretty sure if the pigtails were mounted to the grounded brush's, the motor would not even turn, just a direct short through the field windings to ground with power bypassing the armature.
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Part of the problem in adjusting might be that the shoes have not been arced/fitted to the drums.
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The Model A; used woven type lining or semi hard. I hand arced the shoes on a table saw using the sanding disk, sand paper works too. They are non asbestos but you still want to wear a mask, lots of fine particles. I had one of the AAMCO old style arcing machine and the gauge shown above. I got rid of them about 4-5 years ago. Took up a lot of space in my small shop and was not being used by me.
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The early Ford Flat head V8's used 18 mm plugs. What number it would be, I don't know. (B 4 cylinder still used 7/8")
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Original Vintage Steam Punk!
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Are your turning the box 90 degrees and doing cross steer or mounting the box the normal direction and using the Model A steering arms?
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When applying power to the starter, looking at the saft end, which way does it turn, should be counterclockwise? If it turns clockwise, your best bet at this point might be to get a different starter. They are not rare or hard to find.
Here is one on eBay, if nothing else, you can compare it to what you have. Such as does the bendix match what is shown?
Model T Ford Starter 6 Volt Rebuilt Complete Ready To Install | eBay
You Tube video about rebuilding the starter, might help:
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2 hours ago, Oldtech said:
As I recall the brushes are in the end cap. if the cap is installed incorrectly, i.e 1/4 turn out, wouldn't this cause reverse rotation. Just a thought
The brush holder is riveted to the end cap and its location is set by the terminal bolt. Other than the wrong field windings being used, the other could be the wires are switched around.
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Didn't you ask this question on the Model T Ford Club of America site and got all kinds of responses? If so, as I recall the starter was rebuilt by someone a while back. In any case, why not just get another starter or fix the one you have.
Starters don't care if positive or negative ground, they turn the same way they were made to turn. If it is turning the wrong direction, someone found and fitted some weird windings. The only way to fix what you have, would be to install or have installed new field coil windings. Not something most home shops can do without some specialized tools/equipment.
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Oldtech has it. Could be filed down to set the distance. But every time the clutch was used would pull the crankshaft back and forth, wearing the holes in the pressed steel pulley till it was loose at the pin. You could still buy them up to a short time ago, don't see them listed in 2021 Langs catalog. Ok for short time fix.
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1929 or 1930 Chevrolet. Someone that knows the finer details may be able to better pinpoint it.
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I got my info from "Motor's Handbook of Specifications Interchangeable Parts Service Instructions". My RADCO Carburetor and Motor Tune-Up Manual only goes to 1930 so only lists the DC8 for that year.
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Looks to be early Kingston 5 ball air inlet from around 1909. Could be Ford Model T, could be other. It would depend on size.
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My info shows 1930.
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It's my name..'nuf said.
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Guy up in the Portland Oregon area was doing the same thing. I met him sometime around 2018 or 2019 when he asked to take photos of whatever car I was driving at the time, don't remember if it was my 48 F2 or the Model T huckster. I lost track of the blog.
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If this is the one you are talking about, it was posted in technical not what is it;
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"OTOH, the driver is posed on the street side in the OP pic." LOL Ya but they wouldn't have been able to get that nice side view from the sidewalk side and wouldn't have had much light!
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Wonder if they are after market and was cheaper to cast them with round holes instead of square?
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2 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
The wheels SHOULD be Hayes, would be 25 inch. Budd never made wire wheels that I know of, only disc wheels. If you are looking for a hubcap for the spare it is special, made of aluminum.
Thanks;
Budd is listed in the wire wheel section in the Master parts list (1914 to 1927) in the notes: "Domestic orders for Budd wire wheels or their parts should be sent direct to Budd Wheel Company.." Maybe Budd came later, don't know.
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The factory wheels were either Budd or Hayes. Best bet would be to remove one of the tires, but someone might be able to tell from a good photo. The manufacture should be stamped on inside of the felloe. Hub caps were L- or Right-hand thread. If someone has them, they would need to know. The Master parts book shows a different style hub cap then the more common wood or disk wheel hub cap for the 4 wheels and a trim type of cap for the spare tire. What size are the tires on it now?
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Pay-Pal works fine for me, but only by sending or receiving an invoice, NOT Friends and Family. You have NO protection as buyer or seller using Friends and Family. I avoid anyone that cheats the system and demands to only be paid that way, F&F. If I know the person or they have a posting track record, cash or check works too.
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48 Dodge custom sdn....need help strong clutch pedal
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
You might cross post this in the Chrysler Products forum. This section is more for the 38 back DB's and might get more eyes on it in the other section.