barnett468

That sign was not cut down, that is the original length and is virtually guaranteed to be a reproduction, so it might be worth $300.00 to $500.00 to somebody.

It is likely going to cost over $1,500.00 if you have a shop do it.

you will need a 45 degree angle on the seats then make them the right thickness with a 60 and 30 degree stone or cutter etc as needed. make the valves 44 1/2 - 44 3/4. this improves sealing. you need to move the face of the valve back and forth across the stone as you are grinding it with the coolant running on it. test the springs . if they are a little weak you can put shims under them. you can also check the valve stem height, but unless you have a sunken valve seat, this isn't really necessary in your case. if the guides are worn and are replaceable, you can replace them with a special driver and a 3 lb mallet or the correct impact gun, however, as i previously mentioned, if they are just a little worn you can reem them out and install a "guide liner". this is easy to do, but either process must be done before cutting the seats. if the engine has a rope type crank seal and you convert to a rubber seal, you must remove the small seal retaining pin in the main cap, otherwise you will be very unhappy when your engine oils your floor. if your wrist pins are a press fit you will need to have a shop install the pistons.

No. 1. No 2. Yes

Hi Carl; Thanks very much for your detailed reply, I greatly appreciate it. The curved piece on the nose on the bonham car is actually separate just like it should be. It is only around 4" just like the rear curved piece is. It's just hard to see the seams unless you have a big screen and blow the photo up, and I'm guessing this curved piece is made from solid wood also instead of plywood, and if this is the case, I will have a hard time finding someone that can make that piece. The rest of the front and rear boxes are quite simple to make correctly once the drawings are done, and could probably be done in 40 hours minus the varnish. I have read that the original wood is oak, so it would be red oak which is easy to come by, and from others I have seen, it may not have had a stain on it, and may just have had varnish, but I haven't been able to determine that yet. As far as the opening in the front box for the steering arm goes, the opening on the bonham car is very similar to another orient I have seen photos of, plus the craftsmanship of the opening on the bonham car is very high, so it at least wasn't made in someones garage, which also suggests it may be original, however, I have also seen orients with just a large oval hole, so is it possible that both are correct? I'm also guessing the engine may need rebuilding. I'm a mechanic and can easily rebuild an automotive and motorcycle engine, so I'm guessing that this engine can't be too difficult to do and any advice is certainly welcome, and I have no idea where to even begin to look for parts if I need any. I would also definitely love to see a correct one in person if you know of any near me. I am in southern California in the Riverside area. 1906? WITH ENGINE 2768 This one has the oval hole and correctly mounted gas tank . The trim piece that sticks above the box by around 2" is different on yours, and the car above, and the one below. The piece on the one below is part of the face board, the trim piece on the car above is installed behind the face board, and it looks like yours is more like a moulding that is located on top of the box, so which one is correct, or are they all correct etc? If I had to pick just one as being correct, I would say that yours is, and it is much more like what a cabinet maker would have done. The others are cheap looking, and make me wonder why they would make that trim piece that way after going thru all the trouble to make the nose of the boxes rounded, when they could have just made them square to save time and money. . Here's another one for comparison, so is the face board with the oval hole on this one original? It does not have the molded piece on top like yours. Also look at the grain on the wood on the side. The boards are almost "mirror image", like they were sawn right next to each other, which is only done on higher end pieces. Were all the orients done this way and the people that have remade their bodies didn't notice it and therefore did them incorrectly? . .

i just used 160 as a reference. compression is reduced the more advertised duration a cam has because the intake valve closes at a later point. the overlap and lift can also affect it but that's a very lengthy subject. the dynamic compression is a more accurate reference for when detonation etc will occur.

Ok, in case you don't know, when you do the compression test the engine must be spinning quickly, so you should either use the marine battery or open the cups? or remove the plugs to reduce the compression in the cylinders you are not testing. I can assure you that if you have around 160 psi of compression or more, you will have at lest some detonation even on 91 octane, so this will need to be addressed. You may even have some if the compression is as low as around 145 if it has a short duration cam. Also, if it does it cold as well as hot, it may turn over a little easier if you retard the initial timing a little, by maybe around 3 degrees and try that as a test only for now.

. ummm....No! .

I have had every era of vette and like things about each one, and the c4's are very good looking, and with the z51 suspension, they handle like a go cart. the quality of some of the parts is unfortunately sub par, however, if one doesn't abuse the car much, they aren't really unreliable.

Thanks very much for your reply, and yours is very nice! I deleted the first photos to replace them with closer photos so it would be easier to see but I haven't had time to find them yet as they are in my other computer, but will post them asap. Do you still have yours, and if so, do you have good close up photos? My plan is to have the front and rear boxes made correctly. I'm pretty sure the seat itself is actually the original one. I can't tell if the sides of the boxes are 1 piece or 2 pieces glued together, but from what i can tell so far in other photos, it looks like they were 1 piece, which would be a custom order if i can even get them because the local hardware stores only have 10" wide pieces. Also, i need to figure out exactly what the curved wood piece on the nose of the boxes are. it looks like it is solid wood, and if so, it had to be carved out of a piece of 4' long 4x4 which seems a bit hard to do, because it is not possible to make that tight of a curve in 1/2" thick solid wood by steaming it. I am going mostly by the orient in the link below, and my guess is that the one below has all the original wood, and it is claimed to be a 1906. If you click on the highlighted link below, then click on the photo in that link, it will bring up more photos of it. You can also super enlarge the photos by clicking on them. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/22174/lot/314/ This is the one in the link above. What do you think about this one being original?

I have no idea, I just got it from a google search and it did not state where it was located.

Not for his particular app/requirements, and I have seen hundreds of heads that had that much play and more that came off good running engines, but I would prefer less myself.

I could be wrong but I'm going to guess that this body is 100% correct for a 1906.

It's only wood, so its not that difficult to make, and I could make the drawings if I had to. The hardest part would be forming the curve in the wood. It would be thousands of times more expensive if it was a metal body that had to be reproduced. I don't know anyone in my area that does this type of work though even if I were to try and have a regular custom wood shop make it.

This may very well be, and obviously, if it is, the value is far less, but it is still worth something, so I'm just trying to get an idea what a fair value is on it assuming it needs some work to get it running as well. I can live with an incorrect body if the price is right, but then will it be impossible to sell later with the wrong "home made" body if I ever decide to. It would be nice to be able to pay some 2nd year high school wood shop class some money to make the correct parts, lol.

No problem and thanks for yours and George's help. Since the boxes are likely homemade and incorrect, is it still worth anything? Any idea how much to make correct boxes? What are these worth in "C" grade condition (presentable driver grade showing minor wear)?

The one I am interested in that I posted photos of definitely does not have a radius. Below is one that does have the radius so it is easy to see the difference.

CYLINDER WEAR clean the carbon off the top of the cylinder bores going around 3/8" down into the bore, then feel if there is ANY ridge at all at the top of the bores. if there is, it must be rebored for the new rings to seat properly so it does not smoke. if there is no ridge, the bore could still be ovaled and/or tapered a little. if the combined total of out of round and taper is .0025" or less, you "can" just hone it and use it as is if you use cast iron rings, but this is still not ideal. If the combined total is .0015 or less, it will be fine to reuse for your intended purpose. VALVE AND VALVE GUIDE WEAR As far as checking for valve guide wear goes, you really should have an experience head shop check it because it is hard to explain how to do it, plus it is more of a "feel" thing when checking them, but here's one way to check them. measure the valve stem to insure it is not worn more than around .0005". make sure the tip of the valve is not concave or mushroomed out beyond the diameter of the valve stem. stick the good valve in the head holding the head of the valve around 1/2" above the valve seat. move the the head of the valve from side to side in both a 1 to 6 o clock position and a 3 to 9 o clock position. if the head of the valve moves more than a total of 1/32" in any direction, the guide is bad and needs a new guide liner at the minimum. if it is worn more than 3/32", it needs a new guide. knurling a worn guide to reduce the play is nearly worthless, but it will make a nice lubrication channel for the oil to run down right into your engine. NOTE: If you do anything to the inside of the guide to tighten it up, you must regrind the seat and valve face. HEAD DISTORTION Measure straight across the middle from one end to the other, then measure both "kitty corners". If there is less than .002" clearance under the straight edge at any point, AND there is no excessive erosion of a water passage that might not properly seal wit the head gasket, there is no reason to surface it. BLOCK DECK DISTORTION Check the block the same way.

I am looking at an Orient buckboard that I am interested in buying but don't know much about them and want to know for certain what year it is and what parts may be incorrect. In photos of other Orients I have seen, the nose of the front and rear wooden housings are nicely curved, but on the one I am looking at, they are not curved, and look more like someone made them in their garage, so I was wondering if the boxes on the one I am interested in are correct. I am also wondering what parts are wrong or missing and where I might be able to find the correct ones. It looks like there is a round "can" missing on the rear of the engine that covers up something just above the starter shaft. Thanks in advance for any help.