barnett468

If the connections were clean and only lightly tightened, they would easily have a good enough connection, in which case the culprit would have been that one or both of the cables were too small or an original cable with a weak connection on the end fitting was used.

I sent you I sent you a private message. .

Yup, quite obviously bogus bidding if one understands how ebay's bidding works.

So that's why they call it a "drain" plug!

From an engine builders standpoint, I really don't know why they would run a non detergent oil, but if they do, they should change it frequently whether they drive the car much or not.

That is quite obviously not the norm and doesn't occur under normal use and normal maintenance etc.

What additive do you use, and why not just buy oil that has something similar to what you want if it is available?

Yes I know, so on those there is no need to worry about pieces breaking off of the head and plugging an oil drain port.

I have been building engines for around 45 years and do it for a living as part of my job, and I have never, ever, seen "sludge" build up anywhere other than on the head or in the oil pan, unless it is an inline engine that has the lifters on the side of the block, in which case I have seen some minor "sludge" there, and I have disassembled engines that had 1/4 thick buildup caked onto the top of the cylinder head.

If someone wants to run a low detergent oil that has high levels of zinc, one option is Valvoline "Not street legal racing oil". The quote from them below is old, and the last time I checked with them, their VR1 contained 1250 zinc and not 1300. "Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent zinc and .12 percent phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil, which contains .14 percent zinc and .13 percent phosphorus." https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq The majority of "sludge" in an engine is on the top of the cylinder head and bottom of the oil pan, so in general, the worst case scenario is that some hardened chunks of build up break off the head and completely plug up the return port that allows the oil to drain back into the pan. If someone is concerned about this happening, they can simply remove their valve cover and inspect the top of the head for caked on deposits etc. Any debris in the pan is filtered small enough by an oil filter (if the engine has one) that it is impossible for it to plug any other passages.

Here's a statement from Valvoline I just found online for you. "Keep in mind that zinc additives are corrosive above certain levels and can harm your engine. Valvoline doesn’t recommend using third-party additives to boost the zinc level. If higher zinc levels are required for your engine, we recommend using Valvoline VR-1, and always remember to consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual." https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq

What jay does or does not do is completely irrelevant and sometimes not the best thing to do. You should NOT put additives in your oil, it's that simple. Also, the fact is that ALL engine oils I am aware of have ZDDP in them, including the ones approved for cars with catalytic converters. They simply use less zddp in the oil for cat cars than they do in their non cat car racing oil lines etc. .

It has been determined to attack the metal as I stated. It wasn't an opinion or a guess. You can find this out by doing your own research, because unfortunately, as I mentioned, all this info is in my other computer, however, in a quick google search I found a scientific paper that states, " The experimental results confirmed that phosphorus has a deleterious effect on the corrosion resistance of carbon steels in H2SO4 solution as a result of the higher hydrogen activity.". This obviously isn't the same metal or same circumstance as it being used as an additive in oil for an engine, but the end results are similar. https://corrosionjournal.org/doi/abs/10.5006/1.3524835 You may or may not get an accurate answer form Lubrizol, who is the largest supplier of engine oil additives to the engine oil mfg's, or from Blackstone Labs, but you can call them and ask. ZDDP is a bit like drinking alcohol. Too little doesn't have much affect at all and too much can be seriously detrimental. .

All types of engines benefit from some zddp, especially higher performance ones. Zinc is nearly useless in oil on its own. It needs a carrier which is why they add Phosphorous to it. Some of the oil mfg's are now using Boron instead of phosphorous, and although they still refer to this combo as ZDDP, I call it ZDDB which is actually correct. .

Yes, and you may find it online, but if I recall correctly, it is more than 118 f. I have a ton of info on oil including that, but it is in my other computer that died. bobistheoilguy.com has more info on oil than you will find anywhere. .

It is in some scientific literature.

Don't put additive in the oil. Valvoline Racing has around 1250 ppm which is enough for these engines, and 20w/50 should be sufficient for most apps . Anything over around 1800 ppm of zddp won't add any additional protection and it can start to attack the camshaft.

1. Both people look nearly identical in every single way. 2. The fact that the photo was in a magazine or something similar suggests the people are famous. 3. If the car in the photo belongs to the people in the photo, it suggests they are fairly wealthy. 4. This adds up to it being more likely that it is them than not. Lillian Disney. Compare the eyes and the cheeks. ........................................................................................... .

Around one quintillion.

This was only done in one movie which was at the very beginning. I think the car was a Yellow or White Rolls or Bentley, and yes, they took many takes.

Ok, just in case you don't know, you must keep the lifters in order. As far as the valve spring shims go, they cost nearly half as much as new springs do, so you would be better off getting new springs if your current ones are even just a little low. If it was me, I would buy new ones anyway, instead of buying a spring tester.

Are you going to reuse the cam and lifters?

You can make a stop by simply cutting a 5/16" bolt to the correct length, then place it in the tester next to the spring. Even though the 54-62 pressure may be correct, it is still ludicrously low and using higher pressure would be better overall. If you need new springs, Egge Machine has them for $1.56 each. https://egge.com/part/sbi-1305-160-1120/ Here is Egge's spring pressure. 75@1.780

Post a photo of the tester. All the spring testers I have seen and used have a stop on them. If yours has a stop, you just set the clearance to 1.821 using the stop. You can do this with vernier calipers. You can also just use a tape measure to get it reasonable close, but it needs to be within around .020". 54 - 62 lbs is ludicrously low, and if that is the correct spec, and your springs are within that range, I would still install shims under them. The shims are cheap.

I does not matter what it would cost to make it or what a retailer would ask for it. Put it on Ebay and I bet you will not get an offer over $500.00. The reality is that people are not going to beat your friends door down to buy it, plus it is highly unlikely that someone will drive more than around 4 hours each way to buy it, and it would cost a boat load of money for someone to have it shipped to them.