Mark Kikta

I had Roger make me one for my 1922 and it is being plated as we speak.

Brian, I tried to locate this line drawing for the 1922 and this is all I have. It's not as clear but it looks different than the one you have for your 23. This looks to me like it shows the flat side of the end plate outwards on both views. Not trying to beat this to death but wondered what you think?

Thanks Brian and Don. I was sweating the load quite a bit getting ready to start drilling. I didn’t want to screw up this nice water pump shaft Larry S made for me. I think I’m off on the right track at least. I will just brush some general purpose grease on these gears before I button it up. Hugh, Thanks for the info. I ordered the wrong pin I guess. So if I can’t make this screw work, I’ll order the right pin.

Brian, Our distributors are sure different being only one year apart. You have a grease fitting which I do not. I only have an oiler up near the cap.

I just drilled a pilot hole in my shaft using my drill press vise and it came out perfectly centered on both sides of the coupling. Now I’ll wait till I get the parts I ordered and do some fitting checks on some scrap metal before drilling the final hole. By the way, what type of grease did you guys use on the gears that mesh the starter to the flywheel? Chassis type lube or heavier wheel bearing type? Brian, so the drain hole for that end cap is on the outside of the case?

Thanks Brian. I just put it on there like I took it off. I wasn't sure how it fit either so I reference the pictures I took during dis-assembly. Looking closer at it, I thought the groove with a hole at the bottom must have been made to catch the oil off the slinger on the coupling so I thought I had it right? Also I ordered both a shoulder bolt and split pin so I can see what fits better for me. I'm actually hoping I can make the shoulder bolt work for ease of removal/replacement. Drilling that hole freehand seems like a losing proposition for me? I am going to try and drill this on my drill press in a drill press vise with the sharpest new drill bits I have.

So after fitting the shaft and the coupling with shims in place, I marked and center punched the spot to be drilled. So guess I need to decide what I need to drill for. I’m leaning towards the shoulder bolt or roll pin.

So today I test fit my new water pump shaft and it fit perfectly. The gear end fit exactly like the old one. So I cut a piece of sheetmetal to get a good 4O-50 thousands clearance at the oldham coupling. After I cut the center out of the sheetmetal, I taped the two pieces onto the coupling to keep them in place.

Larry, Roger that, I remember our discussion on that subject. I am test fitting the shaft today hopefully so I can shim the coupling and as you say at least mark the shaft fit all assembled and then remove so I can drill it properly.

Larry, Thanks for that information. I copied this from one of your posts a while ago and saved it so I don't make the same mistake. I have some sheet metal around 40-50 thousands thick that I plan to make a shim from and tape it in place when I start this process. That will keep me from getting it too tight hopefully. Drilling the pin hole square in the shaft is my next concern. Also I think I want to use a bolt of some sort instead of a tapered pin, so I can remove and replace easily as I try to get this timing and all figured out. I have a drill press and that will help the process some.

Thanks Don

I am finally about ready to install my Starter-Gen and the water pump shaft and coupling. I just have one question so far. The coupling disc shown below looks essentially the same on both side except for the "S" stamped in one of the grooves. I didn't notice this when I took it apart so I am assuming that would be the side to face the Starter. Anyone know if it matters or if that correct?

Today I finally finished making my own version of an oil pan drain plug. I was frustrated because I could not stop the original drain from leaking. These things will likely leak plenty other places but I am not giving in on the oil pan drain. So I made this contraption on my new mini lathe and it has not leaked a drop in a half a day. I hope it works. Here are a few pictures of my design. The first picture shows the drain with the rotating plug removed. Then I put my pieces together with gaskets top and bottom and a copper gasket on the bolt on the bottom. So far so good.

Very cool Morgan, thanks for sharing this link!

Hey all, A friend sent me this video about Ethanol Fuel and what happens after it sits for 9 months. I found it very interesting. After watching this I need to find a place to buy fuel without ethanol for all of my vehicles. I think you will find this quite interesting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvS_D4_lF5U&feature=em-uploademail Regards, Mark

I finally figured out how to get the rocker arm shafts out to inspect them and clean them up. The oil wick inside them seemed to be OK. I poured oil into the shafts and the wicks absorbed the oil just fine. After cleaning everything well I reinstalled them onto the engine and filled them with oil.

When I was in the Navy and our aircraft carrier was in dry-dock, I asked the guys painting the hull what they used to combat/prevent rust. They told me they used Ospho to treat the metal first then painted it. The phosphoric acid in it changes the rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate and paint sticks to it very well. So in 1979 I was painting my 39 Chevy which had some large paint/ rust blisters about the size of saucers on the roof and trunk. I wire brushed the rust and painted it with ospho. The next day I did that all over again. It turned the rust a black color with some white powdery residue. I brushed the powder off, lightly sanded the area and primed and painted it. To this day not one of those blistered areas as bubbled or cracked. I swear by Ospho.

I purchased 4 Lucas tires and tubes. They seemed quite nice. I purchased everything I needed including the brass stems.

Ratfink255, I used a rim tool also to pull the rim in and make it smaller. It was relatively easy with that tool.

There is a little bit of surface rust in this tank but I think it looks very good for its age.

Tonight I removed the fuel tank. I need to get it to my radiator shop where they are going to clean it and check it out for me. I was quite surprised how clean it looked. I hosed the dust off and it looked great. It looks pretty good inside too. I don’t see any rust inside at all.

Good idea Terry, Thanks

Hugh, I looked in both parts books I have and there are no pictures of this part. The only thing I found was the drawing in Dyck's unfortunately. I'll give Jason at AER a try. Thanks, Mark

MISSING DISTRIBUTOR PART Somehow in the process of taking apart the Distributor portion of my starter-generator, I have lost a piece. I assume it was buried in the tons of petrified grease I removed from the inside and was accidently overlooked in the mess. I can't believe it could have happened but it did. The part I am missing is called the advance yoke stop, Buick part number 26038 and it is used in 21-22 6 cyl models. I hoping someone has a carcass that they would sell or one that has this part inside that they would sell. Any suggestions welcome!

Congratulations Morgan !