Mark Kikta

This was my first experience with them and I would recommend them to anyone now.

When I dropped it off I think he told me 17-20 weeks because they were really backed up. Today he said they were not backed up to badly and they were completing jobs in about 8 weeks right now. It took between 5-6 months to get this order.

Today I took off work and drove 2 1/2 hours to Librandi’s plating in Harrisburg, Pa to pick up my plated parts. I was very happy with the quality of work done by them. You can see my front bumper (1/2 of it), my water tube and all of the hood parts and Motormeter. I met with Larry D’Barry near Gettysburg on the way home and we had a great lunch talking about Buick’s!

Tonight I got my wife to lend me another set of hands so we could bolt my exhaust and intake manifolds on. I first torqued the bolts to 18 ft lbs but I felt like that wasn’t enough so I raised it to 25 ft lbs. seems like that should work and all the copper ring crush seals look like they are crushed evenly along the manifolds. I painted the exhaust manifold with Zybar high temp coating from Summit racing.

1928 Buick Antique Graceville, FL Owned by The Baptist College of Florida. Business hours are 8:00-5:00 Monday through Thursday $12,500 Driven 41,099 miles Manual transmission Exterior color: Blue · Interior color: Grey Good condition For sale by: Olan Strickland

AussieBuick, I think that picture is a 1923 because the end plate is on and oriented like a 23 and the distributor doesn't have a grease fitting on the 1922, at least on the US made Buicks. R, Mark

After one more day of soaking in a can of carburetor cleaner, the air valve was freed up and moves very easily now. Used the small spray stick on a spray can of brake cleaner to pressure wash the shaft of the air valve to finish freeing up it's movement. After another good hot soak and ultrasonic cleaning and I think I am good to go. Used air pressure to check high speed jet and it seems like it's very clean.

In the process of getting the manifolds ready to install, I took the flapper out of the Heat Control valve and I had the ends of the two tubes going to the carburetor welded closed.

When I took it apart there was a red cardboard type gasket in the carb body?

Jon, the carb kit I purchased did not have a gasket for the dash pot bowl. Do you know where I can find one?

The dash pot must not have been the right answer because it wasn’t around many years.

Larry, Terry copies it for me earlier today and is mailing it to me tomorrow. Thank you though. You don’t need to copy it for me

These are great Terry. Thank you!

Had to look grossvater up

This morning After overnight soaking in some liquid wrench, I was able to get the bottom plate off of the carburetor body with all the jets and air valve attached. I inspected the tip of the high speed jet and it does not appear to have any cracks. The air valve however is frozen solid so I’m putting this back in the can of carb cleaner for a while longer. If this doesn’t free it up I soak it in something else. I just don’t want to break any of those delicate parts. I took Hugh’s advice and I soldered the cracked brass bowl on the inside and outside. I could blow air through the crack before and it appears to be fixed now. I also filled it with gasoline and it did not appear to leak.

Terry, According to 1922 parts book, the 1922 should have a carb with 10-47 stamped on it which is what I have. So it is correct for 1922 at least when that book was printed.

Today I managed to cut grooves in the heads of these two rusted screws and then got them out with a screwdriver. I soaked my parts in carburetor cleaner and then tried out my new ultrasonic cleaner. The parts came out great. Unfortunately after cleaning all of the parts, I found a crack in the brass bowl on the bottom of the carb. I think I have another one on a spare carb I bought online. It doesn’t seem to be as heavy as the one that is cracked and might be a bit shorter. Hope it works ok.

I would love to have a copy. Ill pay you to make a copy for me. I have a newer version but not the 1922 version.

I already bought a kit from the Carburetor Shop.

Today I took my Marvel carburetor apart so I can clean it and rebuild it. I’m soaking all parts in carburetor cleaner overnight. I was generally able to take most of the carb apart without any issues. I did run across one major stumbling block however. I unscrewed the large bowl next to the fuel adjustment so I could get to the screws holding the bottom plate onto the carb. Unfortunately as you can see in the third picture, the heads/screwdriver slots on those two screws has been corroded away. I guess I will try to cut a new slot in each with my dremel tool or maybe just cut the head off of the screws. Anyway, I need to get that bottom plate off to clean inside. Just another challenge along the way.

Bruce Klein has the parts correct?

Thanks Larry I’ll call him

Thanks for going to the trouble to get them out and photograph them. Looks like you have plenty of snow. These are not correct for my year but I’ll go measure mine to see if I can use anything off of them

Today I picked up my gas tank at the repair shop. The tank has been coated inside with a red rubber like coating that they claim will last forever and will not break down from the ethanol. No holes were found in the tank from corrosion so no repairs were required. They did drill 3 holes in the back of the tank as access points to sandblast and coat the inside. They welded 3 small fittings that could be accessed in the future if ever needed. They will not be visible when the tank is installed unless you are underneath the car looking. It looks like they did a great job, I'm very pleased.

Thanks Morgan