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Buick35

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Posts posted by Buick35

  1. IMG_20191015_145937.jpg.00e085db10a89e22e3019a2b60df42dd.jpgPXL_20211009_200930296_MP.jpg.d555de3582c77d238e49fc0e32d13f9c.jpgI saw a post on the cars for sale section for a 35 Buick sedan 40 series.It looks very similar to mine but the rear quarter windows are different. On mine it doesn't have the vertical strip or trim piece. Mine cranks out.Is mine missing that trim piece or are they made both ways? Just curious.Thanks. Sorry image didn't post.

    IMG_20191015_145937.jpg

  2. On 11/28/2023 at 10:02 AM, Matt Harwood said:

    I bought this for my wife, Melanie, on her 40th birthday. It still delights her even 10 years later. That's the gift that keeps on giving.

     

    2021-03-2710_25_59.jpg.f7c775d860db8e044fad5c3d0ac03b16.jpg

     

    I once bought my ex-wife a sink disposal for Christmas, thinking it was an awesome gift. I am not her husband anymore.

    That's my wife's dream car.If trade my 74mg for one for her If I could.

  3. 11 hours ago, Gary56 said:

    I can do clock repairs, give a call 5093885829 or text me and I will get back to you

    Sorry I don't text but please call me back at 321 877-2497 when you can.Thanks,Greg.

  4. Saw on Space coast Florida's craigslist.post i.d. 7703345601. Sorry I'm unable to send ad on my tablet.Says it runs o.k.,body and interior look not too bad. I don't have the storage and would probably get a divorce if I bought it, but thought I'd pass it along.Happy New Year,Greg. Maybe if I hit the lottery and split the money with her she's be on board with it,just kidding.

  5. I bought a wind up clock from e bay for my 35  Buick.I knew it might not work when I ordered it but thought I'd take a chance.When I got it yesterday I was surprised that it wound up and I could set the hands but it only winds part way and then pops like something is stripped or worn by the main spring but I think it's fixable. Dose anyone on the forum repair clocks for a reasonable price? Thanks,Greg.

  6. I know the best method is to replace with metal but I don't think there's not much metal to work with.Previous owner built up the area with a lot of body filler and it's a unibody fender.Fortunately the area is below the front bumper and isn't noticeable unless you look underneath.It's a crack about 5" long running from front to rear by the left front wheels opening. Dose the body filler with fiberglass in it work well or what should I use? I can try to get a picture.Thanks.Greg

  7. 8 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

    I 'm betting you have one of the junk Chinese mechanical distributors? Sounds like the advance is stuck. Put it on a distributor machine and run it up to check advance movement.

    Thanks,I'm thinking that too.I hope that's all it is.I'm taking it to a retired v.w. mechanic on Friday.He's got another distributor to try.I'll keep you posted.

  8. 1 hour ago, Lee H said:

    To answer your first question, yes, in the days before automatic advance mechanisms, the spark lever allowed you to return the spark to TDC (generally) so the ignition wouldn’t spark early and buck against the electric starter (or break the  arm of the human starter).

     

    The original VW pulleys have a notch at the initial timing setting (which varied with the year and transmission) that you’d line up with the crankcase split, but if I owned one today, I’d make sure that the pulley had an accurate mark at exactly top center for the #1 piston, and then use a dial-back timing light so I could set initial timing wherever I wanted, and also easily confirm that the centrifugal advance is working properly and coming in at the right RPM.

     

    And if you continue to get backfiring out of one of the carbs even when you get the timing right, I’d expect a bad or sticking intake valve (or the valves could have been adjusted incorrectly).

    Thanks for the replies.Greg

  9. I have a built up 1835 engine in a 69 v.w. with a 110 cam larger valves and dual carbs.The problem now is it won t start unless the timing is pretty retarted.If I start it that way and advance the timing set with a timing light to where it should be it runs better but when I shut it off and try to start it again in that position the starter seems to drag real bad and no start. New distributor(points type),mechanical advance.It also back fires bad out of the right carb.until it's warmed up.Could it be a bad distributor? Is that why real old cars had the lever on the steering wheel to change the spark advance after running? A friend in our car club who's a retired v.w. mechanic says he'd help by doing a compression check and other things.Hopefully he will figure it out.Happy New Years,Greg.

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