Sactownog

OK, so I have to build a straight bar with a hook on one end and a hole on the other to pull the tube out. CAN ANYONE TELL ME how tall /wide the bar should be? the engine is not at my home so I would have to wait until Monday to build the bar unless someone could measure the top to bottom of the water jacket for me.

so in the jacket, I do see an open area (like a slide or slit in the metal). are you recommending that I get a wire/hook, put it in that area and tug the sh*t out of it! I will try this. its been a pain in the but.

need help! I have tried to get this water tube out of the engine for a couple weeks now. the engine is completely torn down, EXCEPT the water jacket will not pull out. I have used PB Blaster, WD40, a screw driver to wedge around the outer jacket to bend it in and try to get a good grip, but nothing. I am boarder line ready to leave the tube in and just say fk it. how the heck do I get this stupid water jacket out of the block? all help is good help.

HOW MUCH DID THAT COST.

The shop does have a hot tank, I plan on soaking/cleaning everything tomorrow afternoon. I will measure and probably get new bearings, I want things to work efficiently and be new. the rear flywheel bolts are not seated and need to be replaced, some dumb kid put a bar against them to turn the engine and jacked up all the threads, needless to say, it pissed me off, but they are only bolts so they will be replaced also. the instructor looked at the bearings and said we might be able to re-use them. but like I said, I will probably replace just to make all new.

The valve cover area has been the most gross due to pockets of oil turned to sludge in all corners, around the valve guides, f-ing everywhere. but slowly its getting cleaner. At this point I am just waiting to get this block cleaned and start ordering parts.

Well, here is the block in all its glory. The cylinder walls are clean and smooth, not issues there. the bearings are smooth with no scoring and can be reused. not planning on boring the cylinders over or anything crazy. Really I am going to freshen up, clean and put back together. nothing to crazy.

This is the back end of the crank, it looks pretty good, I have seen others that are warn down and have to be fixed. mine seem's fine, I plan to polish the crank and see how it looks. but it does not look bad at all in my opinion. share your thoughts.

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2018/11/19/collapsed-barn-find-in-pennsylvania

yeah, originally I was going to leave it off which is what made me want to ask others the question. it makes sense. mine has always been on (hot water flowing through heater core) but I will replace this valve so I can cut it off. no real need for it in San Diego, CA so the heater is more for looks than function.

take it all apart, clean it very well with solvents and wire brush, then paint it black OR coat it with a rubberized spray https://www.zoro.com/rust-oleum-rubberized-undercoating-black-15-oz-248657/i/G0903865/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2efrBRD3ARIsAEnt0ehGx4zAmx3W7FWhxYIz67HsVkUtM6XTSbLMtPgEuJ2Bb4bEuxeaWs0aAqZ1EALw_wcB I personally took all my leaf springs apart, rear end rebuild, then primer and painted the whole area black. if you are working on bottom of vehicle cab, I would go with a rubberized spray like line - x or a can of what I linked above.

UPDATES FROM LAST NIGHT'S TEAR DOWN. Got the front timing chain and large sprocket off, you can tell the chain was very loose, this will be replaced with new chain and gears. the amount of gunk in the engine is a bit ridiculous, the cam looks good, I am thinking it can be cleaned and re-used but will not make that determination until after I clean it and see how it looks. all the Pistons are out now, the bearings look good except one that seems to have a ridge on the bearing on the center, no picture of that yet, but I will get that on Monday. the tube that lubes the timing chain is for sure clogged, it may have sprayed some oil out of it but it sure does seam clogged. the lifters all look perfect and will be re-used. any tips or info, feel free to give opinions.

JUST CURIOUS, why would they put a Water Heater Shut Off Valve on the engine to stop water going to the heater core? my only thought is for summer to stop the heat from the water going into the vehicle and warming up the cab during hot days. ??

yeah, that ISH is irritating. the purists seem to take to much to heart from those original books. I had a guy tell me to always use the cork gaskets because that is what the engine is made to use. I was like, what! alright dude. however, I don't think they offer rubber gaskets for the 230 dodge engines. but ya, the updates would be good to know such as OIL to use.

so when this engine is rebuilt, you are suggesting I run 10w-30 in it?

update on engine tear down. I took out all the valve springs and valves, got the engine turned over and the oil pan/oil screen & tube off. making good progress with the time given in class at night school. goal on Wednesday night is to remove piston's, rod's, crank, and get the front timing chain off. thought the engine tear down was going to be a lot harder than it has been, but its coming apart nicely. the sludge inside is going to be great to get cleaned out. also, after many oil changes on the vehicle, somehow sludge has built back up on the bottom of the oil pan. hopefully this will not happen after the rebuild. this leads me to ask, what oil do you all run when you rebuild your engine? I was always told to use 30 weight non - detergent.

YES, these new parts coming back are very sexy.