Sactownog

Trans builder said AMSOIL 40W DIESEL SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION FLUID BUT I CANT SEEM TO SOURCE IT ANYWHERE????

NEED A LITTLE HELP: WHAT TRANSMISSION FLUID SHOULD I USE, I PREFER HIGH END OIL LIKE LUCAS. . CAN i USE? Lucas heavy duty high performance SAE 80W-90 GEAR OIL for the trans.

NEED HELP. DO THE FORKS OF THE SHIFT LINKS GO IN THE ROUND SLOTTED AREA? I believe the driver side "Reverse & 1st" has a "C" style mount into the slide area where my finger is pointing and the passenger side link "2nd & 3rd" go in the slot where my finger is pointing. anyone have info on this. hope you understand my quarantined drinking typing. 1st pic is rear 2nd picture is forward toward engine.

stock links from og 3spd

got the engine in the car, my issue is once I got the transmission shifter in the car, I was not able to switch gears. come to find out the links that George Asche gave me were incorrect for my 1933 Dodge stick shift I have contacted the Asche family and they said they will send me other links that may work. problem is the links I have have one linke that is low and the other link stands up a couple inches which does not allow my shifter to move the left side link that controls reverse and 1st gear. If the new link's they send me do not work, I am afraid my only other option is to switch out the OD trans for the stock 3spd. after all this work, I may end up going back to the standard 3spd again and just sell the OD 39 trans. well see.

your insight is always welcome so that I know what to look for in all areas. now I am fussing with the clutch linkage. cant remember how it went on and took shitty pics.

new drive line will be made/fabricated.

well it has to be greased the 1st time at least so I will keep searching for the correct needle / fitting to grease properly.

bro, this sucks. Spinney Hill used to constantly follow my build and posts and give me great info. as a young 37yr old, I didnt and still dont know much about old cars as I used to know. he would always share great info. RIP Spinney Hill, damn man. Rest In Peace

what is a Needle Point Adapter? my grease fitting for my 1933 Dodge Throw out bearing needs grease and I can t find the gun to work with cone fitting. who knows what goes with this?

LETS SUPPOSE: I do not want to take out the nipple due to possibly ruining the nipple, is there another hose or attachment that will work with it?

IS THERE A SPECIAL GREASE GUN THAT ALLOWS YOU TO GREASE THE THROW OUT BEARING?

the same way my front motor mount and rear bell housing mounts were from the start is how they are going to be when I put the engine back in. the lower cross member that goes under the tranny is the only concern but is easily fabricated. my engine and bell housing will mount to with front arms resting on frame and rear ball housing resting on the shifter cross member.

from my understanding of it so far, the bell housing mounts to the cross member where the shifter and food peddles are mounted. the transmission has a rear lower cross member mount that the transmission sits on. if for some reason it is different and does not sit under the trans correctly, I may have to do some modifications. right now, my next move is to get the engine in the car and jack up the transmission to find out what has to be done to make it work. but I am praying it works smoothly.

well, the engine is done, mated to the transmission this weekend. I had to take time to paint the transmission to match the engine or it would be in the car already. very happy with how it looks. now just need some time to get the engine in the car and move on to the next issue. the Transmission I got from George Asche which is from a 39 Plymouth/Dodge has a different stick shift mounting point. so I think I may need to now find a new shifter for the Trans. its always something.

I was able to push the pin's in the block and put the flywheel, clutch,pressure plate on and then slip over the bell housing, next is me trying to get the transmission into the engine. its fooking heavy.

NEED HELP: WHAT ARE THE STEPS TO INSTALLING THE BELL HOUSING, FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLATE? -I tried to put the flywheel on after the bell housing was mounted. It was very difficult. -Then I took off the bell housing, and put the flywheel on, then tried to put the bell housing, over it and it wouldn't go on. -Then I loosened the pressure plate, slid the bell housing over the flywheel, it worked. but then would have to tighten on the flywheel, then try to get the clutch and pressure plate on. I believe the 3rd try above is the correct way to get it on. but any in site would be appreciated.

NEED HELP: WHAT ARE THE STEPS TO INSTALLING THE BELL HOUSING, FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLATE? -I tried to put the flywheel on after the bell housing was mounted. It was very difficult. -Then I took off the bell housing, and put the flywheel on, then tried to put the bell housing, over it and it wouldn't go on. -Then I loosened the pressure plate, slid the bell housing over the flywheel, it worked. but then would have to tighten on the flywheel, then try to get the clutch and pressure plate on. I believe the 3rd try above is the correct way to get it on. but any in site would be appreciated.

they do this stuff and dont bring it up to the customer, they just take the liberty of changing something that has been the same for 85 years. very unprofessional and a true irritant when building a vehicle. little extra down time = days lost on build. I wont use them unless I have to in the future.

Got the front engine mount on after a little modification. I can complain about http://www.then-now-auto.com/ and what they did with my original front engine mount, but its fixed now so I wont complain about it. I just wish they would not have pulled a bait and switch on me without telling me what they were doing. anyway's I believe this new engine mount will work just fine and now I will be hoisting the enging off the stand, putting it on the ground and getting the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate, bell housing, and transmission mounted to the engine and load it into the engine bay all at once. wish me luck.

Silver and Black with Gold Bolts are looking really good. I am very happy with the look.

Got most of the engine back together. came to a stopping point when I realized that "Then and Now Automotive" who I had revulcanize my bushings, did not send me back my original parts for the front motor mount and the bolt holes on top did not line up. Apparently they are saying the front motor mount upper is flat and the lower is U shaped and that this is not standard for any years 33 - 53. so they don't have a template to make my front engine mount. now they are sending me a new front engine mount with a template for me to drill new holes in my upper engine mount to make it work "I Hope". Kind of pissed me off they kept my original upper plate but well see what the new engine mount looks like. otherwise, engine is going to get taken off of the stand this weekend and put on the ground so I can put clutch/flywheel/bell housing/ and transmission on and get ready to drop in the car.

I NEED GROWCO ENGINE ENAMEL 811 SILVER SPRAY CAN TO FINISH MY ENGINE, SEEMS THAT THE ENGINE SHOP THAT PAINTED THE ENGINE USED A PAINT THAT IS NOT READILY AVAILABLE TO ME. HOWEVER THE WHOLE ENGINE IS PAINTED, I NEED TO PAINT SOME ACCESSORIES TO COMPLETE ENGINE.

bolts are clear coated to show the DB on the heads of them on the water pump.

There are a few bolts that are 100% original to the car, some of them have the DB logo on the top of the bolts. I have decided to wire wheel, clean, and clear these bolts and keep them for hidden little gem's on the engine.