Sactownog

update: 2/11/20 I am spending a lot of time wire wheeling bolts, cleaning, and painting every part to make sure the engine looks as good as possible. so far this is the progress from last night's late night.

so so clean. cant wait to get this engine in the car.

well, I got the engine home on the stand. now I have to put all the parts onto the engine and and get the transmission back on and painted so I can get this engine back in the car. note: need new main break line as I accidentally hit it with the grinder, so that needs to be replaced. Anyone have ideas on replacing the break line from Master Cylinder to the back break lines.

I am thinking I am going to go with the picture of the engine between the frame rails. mainly because it kind of looks like the engine is propped up from the oil pan up. with the black clutch plate matching, it looks pretty good.

OPINIONS WANTED: SHOULD I PAINT OIL PAN SILVER OR LEAVE IT BLACK?

today I got some updated pictures as I dropped off some more small parts before engine is finished. should be done this week and ready to put back in car.

@knobless nope not worn, just surface rust that had to be cleaned off.

UPDATE: 1/31/2020 Well after about 3-4 Months of going to a night college, finding out the college instructor did not know how to operate the school's bore / hone machine, or how to deck the head and block and many months of frustrations. I have finally got my engine close to the finish line. I ended up taking the engine to a local machine shop to have the head/block decked, the new valve guides installed, and bored the block .060 while the block was there, i figured, why not have the shop put the short block together, and now in about a week I should be getting the engine back. here are some updated pictures of the engine, it will be painted silver.

ACTUALLY! I was thinking Galvanized may be a better / cheaper way to go. it will last as the car is not driven daily and wont look to bad either.

I am Thinking of going with 2" Stainless Steel. I sell the pipe and can get sicks of Stainless Steel 2"x10' for $175.ea then I have to have someone bend it which shouldn't be to difficult. but it will add up quick. My plan is to use the original muffler that came with the car, not sure if that is a good idea or not, but it has worked for 2 years, just needs some clean up and it will get painted. Thought about getting a new muffler, but I like the way the old 85yr old (cherry bomb looking) muffler sounds. (like a tractor)

http://www.richer-auto-and-truck-electric.com/ Jimmy Richer Jr. is the owner and if you tell him Ralph refereed you, he will take care of you with the CAR GUY DISCOUNT.

What pipe size should be used for the dodge 230 flat head 6 engine? I am going to make the exhaust out of Stainless Steel and am thinking 2"

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT SIZE EXHAUST PIPE TO USE WITH THE 230 FLAT HEAD 6?

update: have a buddy here in San Diego who rebuilt my original distributor, its back to new. such a great job, I am very pleased with this rebuild.

is he still around?

i want to see the front of your car, beautiful ride. man that's a sleek car, especially with the convertible.

The plan this week is to remove all the parts from the pieces that were sand blasted and make sure the sand is out of the moving areas. then, I will be installing the cross member back into the vehicle with peddle assembly. Next is to take the Radiator to S&S in Oceanside and have them flush it to see if I need to have it re-cored or if it will be fine. I dont want any junk blocking the engine water way's

was not planning on it, there is nothing wrong with it.

are you speaking of the throw out bearing? clutch/flywheel/pressure plate/throw out bearing are all restored to new.