Sactownog

the large 360 engines I get cheap from my family wrecking yard, I will do a lot more to that later. I recently spoke to George Asche regarding the 230 flat head 6 and was talking about adding a Cam and larger pistons. he stated that I would need to add headers and dual intake knowing that, I may just keep the 230 completley stock, maybe regrind the cam back to spec and seal the engine up for a quicker easier rebuild. my initial thought was bore 230 with .60 pistons, cam, and go all out, but after hearing George say it would have to go with the dual carb/header setup. knowing I want to keep the stock look of the engine, doing all that seems like both a waste of money and time vs HP Gain's of about 100hp.

I would be ok with doing 1 or 2 engines a year for people. my hope is to build my next engine, a Mopar 360 or larger for a rat rod project.

really close to new. all interior is good, the exterior paint/body are great. once the drive train and suspension are done, this car will be good to drive anywhere I think.

This weekend was fun, had some buddies over and we got the engine out of the Harlean. took a good 4 hours, the lower cross member that sits between the engine oil pan and clutch/flywheel is what makes it a pain in the butt, that will get fixed, I plan to grind off the side rivets and make them into bolts for easy removal and reinstall when we put engine back in. I found the engine had blown a freeze plug from rust, and oil dripped out of a few areas. but now the engine is on a stand and I have confirmed with my instructor at the engine building class I will be taking at the local college that I can rebuild the engine in class (3 month class). so all in all it was a good productive weekend for Harlean. stay tuned.

The only real issue I had with the back of the engine so far is when I took out the starter and had it rebuilt. the starter is VERY TIGHT. and was a b*tch to get in again. but it fit. I plan to take out engine with bell housing/clutch/starter all together. when I put it back in, I plan to have the transmission on already to make it a smooth install. the larger pistons would be kind of a "while I am there" thought. but I am not sure yet, I will know more when I tear engine down.

update: I have torn down most of the engine parts (generator, oil filter, all wires & mechanical items on engine, carb, etc) and will be removing hood, radiator and grill shell, from the vehicle tomorrow and removing the engine. I have confirmed I can rebuild the 230 flat head 6 in my upcoming engine building class at the local college where I live. I will be decking the head, possibly adding a new cam, not sure if I am going to go with a bigger piston, and painting engine. stay tuned.

I spoke to the rear end shop owner, he said to use Lucas Oil 85-140 so that is what I used. 1 step closer to getting this thing back together.

So there are no numbers on the Bearing, there are on the part that holds the bearing. so it was basically usless to try and search for a new part or bearing. I rushed over to the local recommended transmission shop and gave it to the owner who will be pressing off the old bearing, measuring and then finding a new bearing. should be easy to find. figured I would let the pro's handle this part.

I am not sure if I can have the bearing on this throw out part replaced or if I will need to find a whole new unit with part that slides on transmission. please advise.

what oil to use in rear of 33 dodge with 4:37 gears?

IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED, SUNDAY IN VISTA CALIFORNIA (SAN DIEGO) THE 30TH VISTA ROD RUN WILL BE HELD IN VISTA, CA https://www.eventbrite.com/e/vista-rod-run-2019-registration-59185800322DescriptionThe Vista Rod Run features 350+ classic and specialty cars. Car owners compete for the best of the best to win one of 30 trophies. Also featured is music throughout the event, Specialty Auto vendors and great downtown shopping, restaurants and breweries.This site is used for vendor and entry registration only.Pricing:Pre-sale Registration (3/21/2019 - 7/12/2019 at 11:59pm):$25.00 - Pre-sale registration without a T-shirt, Dash Plaque and Raffle Ticket$30.00 - Pre-sale registration with a T-Shirt, Dash Plaque and Raffle TicketRegular Registration (7/13/2019 - 8/3/2019 at 5pm):$30.00 - Registration - comes with Dash Plaque and Raffle TicketDay of Registration (On 8/4/2019):$35.00- Day of Registration - comes with Dash Plaque and Raffle TicketAdditional T-Shirt:$15.00 - Small, Medium, Large, X-Large$18.00 - XX-Large, XXX-Large$20 - Women's Tank Top$20 - Long Sleeve T-Shirt$20 - Hat$15 - Commemorative License Plate*Pricing does not include prossessing feesIf you are a vendor and registering for a 10x10 space at the Vista Rod Run. Please use promotional code "vendor" after you click the register button on this page to access the vendor registration options.FAQsIs it free to attend the event as a spectator?Yes, this site is for vehicle participants and vendors only.What time can we check-in?Vehicle check-in is from 7:00am-9:00am. No late entries accepted.How do I find the entrance for check-in?Exit the 78 Fwy on Civic center and drive North to Eucalyptus or Exit Vista Village drive to Vista Way. The closest address for your GPS is 319 E. Broadway, Vista, CA 92084Is there food available for spectators and participants?We have lots of great restaurants for breakfast and lunch in Downtown Vista, plus a few additional food vendors will be scattered throughout the event.Are there ID or minimum age requirements to enter the event?No, there is no age restriction to enter the event.What are my transportation/parking options for getting to and from the event?The NCTD Vista Transit Center is a short 1 block walk from Historic Main Street. You can take the Sprinter Line or Breeze bus to this location.Parking will be available at 9am in the public lot off Eucalyptus though limited due to road closures in Downtown Vista for participant entries.How can I contact the organizer with any questions?If you have any questions about our registration, please contact us:By phone number: 760-390-2932By email: info@vistarodrun.comfacebook.com/vistarodrunfacebook.com/discovervistavillageDo I have to bring my printed registration to the event?No.Is my registration fee or ticket transferrable?NoWhat's the refund policy?All registration & ticket sales are final. Registration/ tickets cannot be refunded unless the event is cancelled. In the event of the cancellation of an event, only a refund of the face value of the registration/ticket will be provided. Registration/ticket service fees will not be refunded. Registration/tickets will not be refunded if event is rescheduled for a future date. This registration/ticket is not redeemable for cash. Unauthorized or unlawful resale or attempted resale is grounds for seizure and cancellation without compensation. This event will be held rain or shine. Reproduction of this ticket is not permitted.

free wheeling option. i have it on my 33 dodge, but it was never used, I have been told it has caused accidents and did not work correctly by others on this forum.

I have to clear the wood bed on a 1929 Ford pickup tomorrow and am not sure what sealer to use. I want to keep the wood the same color as it already is, so I do not want to get a stain. but I am sure I need an exterior type. please recommend a good wood sealer that will be clear and transparent as I am only trying to seal the wood and not stain or change color in any way. Thank you.

GOT A LINK OR PHONE NUMBER FOR MIILITARY DODGE GUYS? I FOUND "THOSE MILITARY GUYS" NOT SURE IF THAT IS THEM THO.

Where is the best place to buy a rebuild kit for my 1953 Dodge L-6 230 engine?

man, you have no idea, I am missing so many shows, missing cruising the 101 on the ocean, but when its done, my goal is to drive from my house to Temecula, CA to the winery's at a good speed on the freeway and enjoy the car. lucky me, San Diego is 99% sunny days and car being down during show season does not really affect me. but I am missing it.

update: got the backing plate gaskets made, got the backing plates and the brakes all put together and mounted to the axle. had to find shock bushings for the shock/rod part. found a kit for a 2007 jeep cheroke with the bushings that I thought would work, however they were to thick. I cut about 1/4" off of them and they now fit perfect. I have stripped the rod from the axle mounting plate to the shock and all the hardware has been painted black. just got the wheels back on and the vehicle is back on the ground again, 1st time since I took out rear end a month or so ago. see updated pic's with more to come later.

sending through message.

call George Asche he is the best in the biz.

Does anyone know how to rebuild shocks on a 1933 Dodge?

I have found bushings off a 1997 Jeep Cherokee sway bar link that will work for Shock Bushings. MOOG K3150