Mattml430

Don’t kill the bees. We need them!! Cool old car hopefully someone will grab it and love it.

Can you attach a link so we can have a look. I could not find it.

Totally agree we need to have indicators these days in the traffic we are in. I got abused the other day for going to slow so I just waved and smiled as I was telling him to get F##### quietly. I fitted the old style looking led brake and indicator on the back and some small tear drop motor bike indicators on the front. I’ll try find a pic for you. I fitted H4 bulbs to my headlights and held them in with 3 springs.

Looks like your doing a nice job. Your floor is looking nice in the front.

Carpet is nice and cuts out a lot of noise.

Might be something like an early International truck with the size of the chassis rails.

Yes they will be covered in material. I used stainless only for its tensile strength. My victory is done this way and I liked it so thought I’d keep it the same. This is the only pic i have of the victory liner so you know what I mean.

Great thanks John for doing that. It’s starting to look that way here isn’t it. I’ve made a couple of calls and had similar answer. I was thinking of maybe a double sown seem about 50mm in from the front corners and run it straight to the back. How do you think that would look? I know what your saying about the fine grain, the top I have is really coarse and I do like it. I’ll definitely have a look at the tonneau cover though it might end up being the best way around it. Cheers. I managed to get my stainless gutter to bend around ok. Just need to polish it now.

Got all the shaping done today and my new rails in. Didn’t move when I unscrewed it, which was great. Just trying now to make some stainless steel gutters for the side. Getting compound angles to bend is tricky.

That makes more sense with the heater and would be easier to get it working. Could get ordinary though with an exhaust leak in the cabin.

That’s the rear heater I have to run some hose from the radiator to it. I think?

Just pulled the carpet up on mine and it looks to be 2 pieces of Oregon to me. One is 14” and the other is 6”. There is a quarter inch gap to the ground between them I can see. Would be hard pressed to get timber like that anymore.

Thanks Bob I’ll send them an email and see what they have, and see if they can ship to OZ.

Thanks,Yes definitely I’ll be epoxying it once it’s finished. That way it will be almost water proof.

I made a start today on rebuilding my new roof. The old one is rotten and not worth repairing. I’m building it out of 20mm ply and laminating it. It’s also a good way to get the shape into it and it will hold there. I have also interlocked the corners so it will be very strong. I will be folding up some stainless steel cross rails instead of timber and covering them, as I like the way the roof is done in my victory. I’ll spend the day shaping it all tomorrow and rebating the rails in. Does anyone know where I can get some roof vinyl 1800mm wide?Everyone only seems to have 1370mm wide. I really don’t want a join in it. I think if I had to I would do 2 full length joins in from each edge.

Thanks Ron I’ll check that out. My toe board in the 27 is definitely plywood and it’s from the states. It’s all delaminating. I’ll use ply on that for sure.

I have a heap of 5”x1”1/2 Oregon that I was thinking of using for my 27 floor. I was going to thickness it to the correct size and put a rebate on the edge and overlap it like that. Do you guys think that would be ok to use. I have about a 150 4foot lengths of it.

I think it’s just amazing the engineering and mechanics they did back then. Designing and building all those links and levers was incredible.

Haha never experienced a skunk but have been told they are bad.

Pics of the doors finished.

I glued just the top vertical piece above the screws. I have a bit of a gap down there so I just extended it up a bit. It hangs down about 15mm. You can see in one pic there it just touches the sill. I have a full square metre of rubber so PM me your postal address and I’ll cut 4 more and post them out to you. I made a template so it’s easier to cut without the rubber moving to much. You can then just trim the vertical piece to suit yours.

I made a start on this job today as my doors are a little gappy down low. I used 3mm ,1/8 flat rubber for the job and just cut it to shape. I definitely sealed the lower gap up a little. I got the front and rear door done and will hopefully do the other side tomorrow. I’ve brought my rubber up a bit higher just to fill the gap I have on the lower part of the door. Maybe not to original specs but I think it works ok.

I’ve also just done my 27. All the gears were in reasonable shape so I just replaced all the bearings. It’s a reasonably straightforward job if your mechanically minded which most of us are to own these old girls. Not sure what your clicking is but as suggested taking the top of gives you a good look inside if the boxes are similar.