Sleep

Please stick around Black River. My Riv is heading closer to the direction of yours than stock. You're not alone. Stock to mild to wild, they're all cool.

Thanks RivNut. I'll keep what has been working for 54-55 years. It's pretty much just the metal coupler in there. Not much bushing material left. Glad to hear there are safety pins!

I know this is a fairly archaic post, but I was wondering what your opinion was RivNut. I got a new rag joint from Lares for my 63. I haven't touched it yet. Would you replace the rag joint or convert to a U Joint? I'm not going for original, I'm going for a driver.

Flipping LP's is serious "work." It is SO liberating to play a whole CD. The satellite radio is very cool. My brother and my Dad use it. I love riding with them and tuning in to some stations from the 40's or something. I just can't bring myself to give up the "hard copy" approach. I like liner notes and album art. I like reading who the artists thank. Sorry, guess this is pretty off topic now.

I've got a little over 2000 cd's and somewhere in the neighborhood of 3100 or so records. Those are 33 1/3. I have less than 100 45's. I wouldn't seriously consider running a turntable in my rivi.

RivNut is saw a tiny blurb on that car in the July/Aug issue of the Riview! I'll do a little more research!

Once I get the front end rebuilt and the brake conversion done, I plan to put a "modern" radio in that runs compact discs or aux/blue tooth. It's a shame most of my music is on vinyl...

So my 63 has an am Wonderbar in the normal location, then it's got an FM unit hanging below the glove compartment. Is this a factory set up, something the dealer would have installed, or is it an aftermarket bit? I'd like to remove it to clean up the cockpit, but don't want to detract from the "originality" of the vehicle, even though it will never be stock under my watch.

Also, they did not come with a metal sleeve.

Right on! I thought the shorter flat/cupped one might be for that but the tall conical one confused me? Since everything is apart should I change them out? There is some light cracking on the one closest to the motor. Again, just not sure whether OEM might be superior to newer aftermarket. She'll never be original and I am doing a disc conversion on the front...multiple questions to follow on that later.

Also, regarding bushings/bumpers, what are your opinions on replacing my UCA bumpers. They aren't cracked, but the replacement ones seem to be a much harder durometer. Same height, just harder and a smaller circumference. As you can see, I've managed to press the guts out of my upper ball joint. I'm not sure the press I rented will remove it. I cut the tacks on the ball joints and I'm sure they are free. Any suggestions? I was gonna take the cut off wheel to them and chisel/hammer them out.

Hey all. As some of you know I'm doing the front end (or as much as I care to right now) on my 63. Before I joined here and was aware of some alternate suppliers and resources that some of you have pointed out, I purchased a front end "kit" off ebay. It came with upper and lower control arm bushings, u/l ball joints, uca bumpers tie rods. I bought new bushings for the sway bar as well. The kit came with two of each of these bushings but I'm not sure where they go. I've got upper and lower control arms off at this point. Any help would be appreciated.

Super helpful fellas. I don't know what's gone on with the motor or the tranny. Seem to run smooth and shifts smoothly. I'll try the 1000 miles or so with the Marvel and a WIX and see where she lies. I would DEFINITELY prefer to do seals over a rebuild. You guys are great. Can't thank you all enough.

Sorry fellas! I'll get it right.

The closest filling station to me is a 7min drive but they've got leaded gas for folks gassing up their watercraft and such. Should I use that stuff or just go for the highest octane available?

Thanks Rivnut! I'll have to miss Oct. I'm scheduled to take my CWI test at the end of Oct so I'll be studying up on my code books. I appreciate the info. I joined the ROA last night.

Will do. I also need to flip my battery. I've read other posts where you recommend swapping the + terminal to the inboard side. I think I'll have to fab up a battery box. Mine has no holder and is wedged into place with a small scrap of wood:) I've gotta get my upper control arms off tomorrow and get the darned lca bushing out of the frame. Probably gonna blast upper and and lower and paint 'em up.

Thanks RivNut! I was wondering what that other floor button was on my floor board! I have the Wonder Bar radio on my 63 too! Someone crossed the wires though so my courtesy light switch operates my antennae and the antennae does my courtesy lights. I've got lap seat belts in the front of mine but none in the rear. Didn't know that was an option? I'm loving this forum and getting insight on my car.

Hey everyone, so I'm hearing don't skimp on the filter, find an oil that works for you in your budget. I've got next to nil experience with cars and what I do know was all high and dry between AZ, UT, and CO. Now I'm in GA with my 63. So for oil, and pretty crumby seals (currently leaking tranny fluid at a good rate from power steering res/tranny itself, who knows and a smallish oil leak.) What is the "consensus" on a reasonable oil for hot and gross humid climate? Filter, I'm looking at a K&N 2003, a WIX 51049, or a Purolator of some sort. I heard gold earlier, but the latest greatest on their site says BOSS? Engine and tranny rebuild are out of the question until winter really sets in hear in north GA.

Yeah I've been looking for a few years but never had the money. I moved out to northern Georgia about a year and a half ago and this one was close by. The fella who sold it to me said it was solid and that he'd drive it anywhere. Picked it up on a rainy day. Couldn't do a solid inspection. My lady was following me home and semi drifted into my lane and I got on the brakes. Spun her around 2.5 times in the middle of rush hour on 575S. Scared the pants off of us both. She pulled right under normal driving and hard left during braking. Got lucky twice that day I guess. I'll be sure to join ROA today. I see they are in Denver. I spent the last 7 years and change in the front range of Colorado but we live in Waleska, GA now. I see there is a meetup in Ocala, FL which is where my parents live now so we'll probably be checking that out this winter.

Got a 3" lowering kit from Jamco. They sent the crumby springs not the Bilsteins so that's a bummer. New wheels are American Racing Wheels with Coker 4 7/16" white walls. Lots of fuzzy wiring. Handles and locks were all shaved. No sign of the vacuum operated trunk latch in the dash but it does have an FM radio hanging in the passenger side. I've got a front disc conversion from Wilwood with a booster and a proportioning valve. AC no worky, all windows go up and down pretty smooth. Not much left of the rag joint, going to need some serious assistance in that neighborhood.

Picked up this 63 from a fella who lived in Myrtle Beach. Came with a manual that said it was a lease car from a place on Hollywood Blvd. Code says it was made in Flint...a real LEAD sled. Guy before me butchered the suspension. Heated up the coils, didn't cut em. I've got tie rods, sway bar, knuckles and lower control arms off. Got my work cut out for me. This is my first car older than 92 and I already love/detest her. Just joined the aaca.

Hey all. New to the forum. Picked up a 63 that was lightly customized about 12 years ago. I'm doing lower ca bushings, upper and lower bj's, all tie rod ends and sleeves, springs, shocks (jamco's with a 3" drop) and a Wilwood front disc conversion. Sorry to all the restoration purists. I get it, but I want a bullet proof daily, and someone already molested this one and not in the best way. Upper ball joints are welded in. Took those tacks off with a cutoff wheel. Lower ball joint looks weird to me. It appears as though the bj is almost integrated into the lower control arm. Can anyone enlighten me as to the best way to get those out? I have a bj press, vices, etc. I have a manual. Just looks off to me. Not sure where to shoulder on the pressing (top) side. Any help would be greatly appreciated.