neil morse

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/chrysler/newport/2267268.html?refer=news At $16,800.00, this looks like a screaming deal for someone looking for a solid Mopar with a gorgeous Highlander interior. I have great affection for these cars, as a former owner of a '48 Windsor. Yes, the styling was stodgy, and you will win no drag races with the flathead six and Fluid Drive, but these cars were very well engineered and will run forever.

If the engine is the original, someone switched it to a single carb setup at some point in its life. The Super came standard with dual carbs.

Peter, I saw this on Ebay this morning and thought of you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Authentic-Vintage-Carter-Carburator-servicing-instructions-1941-Buick-ephemera/183801271603?hash=item2acb68d533:g:NpMAAOSwjfBcTPSY

Thanks for addressing my question, Dave. That makes a little more sense to me than what Peter said, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know whether your "theory" is correct. At least we all agree that blocking fuel to the rear carb is a good diagnostic move.

Try pouring a little of that Woodford in the rear carb -- should fix the problem immediately! ☺️ Although I'm the lucky owner of a dual carb Buick that runs flawlessly (not because of anything I did -- it came to me that way), I'm afraid it's above my pay grade to give you much help. I'm still stumped on why you are focusing only on the rear carb when the shop manual shows that both carbs feed all eight cylinders. You say that you "plotted out" the set up, and confirmed that the rear carb feeds the rear four cylinders. I'm not following that. I really like Matt's suggestion of cutting off fuel to the rear carb and seeing what happens.

Number one, we have seen far more tedious than this, so don't feel bad. Number two, I would wager that the heat riser valves on most cars from this era are stuck closed because people don't need them since they only drive in warm weather, and they are a big hassle to keep working correctly. They are stuck closed on my '41.

From shop manual, p. 6-38: The outside barrels of both carbs feed cylinder Nos. 1, 2, 7, and 8. The inside barrels of both carbs feed cylinder Nos. 3, 4, 5, and 6.

Another thought, Peter. Do you have the shop manual? If so, take a look at pages 6-38 and 6-39.

You are definitely on the right track to have Dave coming over! 😄 As far as your questions, I'm not super knowledgeable about this topic, but unless you mean that you REALLY gunned it and actually drove it at high RPM, I don't think the rear carb would have had any effect on what you observed. My understanding is that the rear carb is mechanically linked to only kick in at around 75% throttle or above. You can observe this by just tweaking the throttle linkage when you are under the hood. The rear carb doesn't begin to open until you've moved the linkage quite a bit. Also, the manifold is set up so the both carbs supply fuel to all eight cylinders.

Two more photos: The obligatory "job's all done" shot showing everything back together. Bonus photo showing Don annealing one of the copper sealing washers before installation (another example of how fortunate I am to have Don's assistance since I had never even heard the term "annealing" before I learned it from Don!).

The end of the story (I hope) So Don and I finally were able to schedule a time for me to bring my car down to his place and go ahead and remove and replace the pump. As the photo shows, once we got the old pump off and could get a good look at it, the stains on the pump made it clear that it was leaking in the conventional way and looks like it had been leaking on and off for some time. It's the "on and off" part that's hard to understand. Why the leak started and stopped, and seemed to do so in response to taking off and putting back the thermostat housing, will remain a mystery. As long as the problem is solved (and it seems to be), I'm a happy camper! Thanks again to all of you who chimed in with helpful comments. The job turned out to be pretty straightforward, just as Dave said it would be.

What a great photo! I love the diversity of cars -- an MGA, an Austin/Morris mini, and a Dauphine, plus all those Pontiacs. It took me awhile to find the Buick peeking out from behind the red truck. Do you know if that's in Canada, by any chance?

This looks like a great car, and I wish you the best of luck with this sale, Matt. Your spiels are the best!

I don't think any thread on here gets "too long." We're all interested in whatever you want to post. But you might consider starting a thread in the "Me and My Buick" forum. That way you can have a place to post any and all developments about your Buick going forward. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/58-me-and-my-buick/

I can spot the Rolls! (Don't see those every day.)

Or, is that a '61 about five cars back on the left side?

Congratulations on the successful delivery! She looks stunning -- the red wheels are the icing on the cake for that color scheme.

Roger, someone has probably already posted this video from YouTube on this lengthy thread, but I'm going to put it up anyway because it is so striking to see a full-size version of your model in the same color scheme.

If you like the look, by all means go for it! For my taste, the photo you posted just shows perfectly how the visor interferes with the fine lines of the car.

Well since you asked.. I agree with Matt. When you say a "correct" visor for a '41 Buick, I think that is kind of a misnomer. To me, a factory accessory is "correct," but an aftermarket accessory is never truly "correct," even though I understand you mean one that might have been purchased to fit on your Buick at the time. More importantly, I think the lines of your car are beautiful without the visor and the visor would just be an unfortunate distraction from those lines. Of course it is your car, and you should do what you want to with it. But as I say, you DID ask! 😉

Thank you, everybody, for your responses. I am out of town this week but I will try Grimy's diagnostic suggestion when I get back home. It's very hard to figure out what's going on here.

Hi Mike, Yes I read all about your bypass fix when I was searching for threads about water pump issues. But I am not having any kind of overheating problem. More of a "phantom leak" problem, it seems.

There are no idle questions, either! I have not removed the pump, so I don't know anything about the bolts holding the pump on. I sealed the two bolts holding on the thermostat/bypass housing with black silicone, and used sealing washers on them. The leak is not coming from either of these bolts, as far as I can see. I did not do the "standard bypass fix for overheating." I am not experiencing any kind of overheating problem.

There are no dumb questions. Yes, I replaced the bypass hose. But there is no indication that I can see that there is any leakage from that area. Just to recap, there was leakage coming down the left side of the engine block under the generator, as shown in the photo I posted. I took off the thermostat/bypass housing, replaced the top hose, replaced the bypass hose, replaced the thermostat (and gasket), and put the housing back on with a new gasket, and the leak stopped for about two weeks. Now the leak has come back. Again, the coolant is leaking down the driver's side of the engine block under the generator, but it's very hard to figure out where it's actually coming from.