Gary W
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Posts posted by Gary W
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It's really not a bad job. The harness is clearly wired so just follow along step by step and you'll get it installed just fine. Lay it out first, get your bearings as to what wire goes where, make a few of your own labels if needed. It's pretty straightforward. If I can help at all, don't hesitate.
Good Luck!!
Gary
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Why is it that whenever you borrow a friends _________________ (lawnmower, leaf blower, snowblower, car, truck, hammer, t-shirt.....) SOMETHING ALWAYS HAPPENS????
Matt.. Safe trip! Enjoy the tour! Looking forward to photos when you return. Gary
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Hi Randy;
No updates from LeBaron. I haven't done anything with the car except start the engine a couple times a week and let it warm up, idle a bit and shut it down. I can't think of anything to do with the car until the new upholstery kit arrives. Bummer
The bad dye lot was with their Brown Bedford Cord fabric. (N7...?). They have a new supplier for the fabric, but how long it takes to remake all the bad kits..... I don't know. It took about three months for the fabric to turn green.
I hate that my project is just stalled for the last few months, but some things are completely out of my control. I had high hopes that I would have a thousand miles on her by now!
The woodgrain was done by Mr. Bob Kennedy out on your side of the country. 1.562.693.8739. A real gentleman to deal with and an artist with the grain.
Thanks for checking in! Have a great weekend and I'll get posting as soon as this kit arrives.
Gary
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I used this gold paint, thinking the timing light would really illuminate it. It doesn't. Use a good white paint to highlight the marks and run a line like Matt did above.
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Hi Rodney;
On my '37 Special I went with the Yellow wires with the cross tracers. I not 100% sure they are "correct" but they look great under the hood.
Labeled, measured and making the first cut
All assembled.
Here's the link of that day:
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Is the fan thermostatically controlled or just flip a switch?
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I don't think the glass was tinted originally. When I ordered my full replacement set of glass for the car, I was informed it comes "factory clear laminated safety glass".
I believe he said I could get a tint at an additional cost, but I wanted it original so I simply ordered a clear set.
I cannot find any corroboration in any of my manuals one way or another, so I went with his advice.
Gary
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Are your seats installed? How do you drive it around?
Did you run a dedicated ground wire to the sending unit? Might help the gauge.
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Some Springtime Photos:
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Running lean. You may also get that as you shift between the gears.
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Matt... She sounds great!! Always a good day to hear it fire right up! Nice job!
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57 minutes ago, rlcokc said:
Gary
Attempting to install my windshield on my 1936 special.
Hello Rod!
I installed the windshield center division channel AFTER the windshield glass was installed.
The night before I installed the windshield, I stretched the new rubber gasket around both glass pieces and set two 1/4" MDF blocks between the panes to create a gap and give the new rubber seal a little stretch.
Set your glass / rubber seal over the lower pinch weld first, then using a string or glass tools, pull the rubber gasket out from under the glass and around the perimeter of the glass to seat the new rubber gasket, without the center division.
Now the glass is set in position, what I did was to CAREFULLY place the 1/4" block back between the panes to again create the gap for the center division channel. If you have helpers "pulling" the glass to the edges to create the gap, it is easier to place the "spacer" block in position.
I used new rubber from Steele for the center division channel. It had to be tapped first because there was rubber in the threads. DO NOT TAP THE HOLES with the rubber assembled. Tap the holes with the rubber out on the bench. The metal is a very very soft brass material that easily bends when the screws bottom out!
So, after the metal was re-painted, slide the rubber into the channel. (Silicone helps here). I had two metal parts for inside the car. A strong steel "base" that goes under the softer, woodgrained part for support.
I used silicone over the rubber, slid the rubber between the panes and started pulling the division channel slowly using the screws. Little by little, it will pull it tight.
Now, according to the book, the center division channel goes in AFTER the garnish molding, and before the rear view mirror. So, I will once again remove my center channel when it's time to install the garnish molding.
But for now, it is keeping the space correct.
Couple Photos: (Of course!!!)
The night before glass install. The two 1/4" MDF blocks helped stretch the rubber and maintain the gap.
Sliding the lower rubber over the pinch weld. John was pulling the rubber out to make the seal. One MDF block still in the gap, but I actually removed it to ease the glass install.
Installing the center division channel. I used silicone on the new rubber, began pushing it into the gap. On the inside, you can see I just started running the screws in.
I caught one screw and started tightening it. Then I moved to the next center one, and so on. It will slowly draw into position.
You see the wood grained part. There is a steel backer plate under this cosmetic piece that gives it a rigidity.
Installed center division channel.
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1937 Shop Manual. Notice the garnish molding goes in BEFORE the center division channel.
But, being I cannot install the garnish until my interior arrives, I figured it will keep the glass positioned properly in the meantime.
Hope it helps!!!
Gary
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I got a matching set of 1930 plates, and had them restored. ( By the way, the "M" is for Monmouth County, so I considered myself lucky to find these!) I keep the registered "QQ" Historic plate on the back, but for the car shows, I put these up front.
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The Bug: "Ingrid"
1967 Volkswagen Convertible
Karmann Body (Cabriolet?)
Quick story: 14 years ago (2004), my younger brother was just turning 40. His wife asked me to find "the red convertible you guys had when you were in college" as a surprise for his 40th. She gave me about 9 months advance notice, and I found a beauty. It had only 8,011 original miles.
No rust, no rot, all original and runs like a top. The owner put some chrome do-dads on it, I did a complete brake job, installed new tires and put a newer 1971 carburetor on it. It's been 14 trouble-free years since. The car is a blast to drive! I never mentioned it because technically, I'm only the caretaker.
The car was stored at my house from 2004 to November 2016 when I purchased the Buick. I kept it detailed, running, maintained...... took care of it like it was my own! Now it's at my mom's house. She has a two-car garage. I hope to build a garage soon so Ingrid can join her "sisters" once again!
This was the "line-up" when she was with me.
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July 2017 at Monmouth Park car show.
Gary
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Do you have a two-stage fuel pump on this car?
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The rubber is from Steele Rubber. The one in the catalog that is correct for my car. It fit very nice, as does all their rubber items!
Here's the link to the windshield install with the rubber seal:
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Saturday April 14, 2018: Sharing some photos outdoors
The temperature got up into the 80's here this weekend so I dropped my plastic crate behind the wheel and drove the Buick out into the cul-de-sac to take a few photos.
It's such a beautiful time of year with the dogwoods and bradfords in bloom. It's a small "bloom" window and I didn't want to miss it!
The paint really looks nice out there, almost looking blue as it reflects the sky.
As shaky as it is sitting on a crate and pushing the pedals, boy it feels nice behind that wheel!
Enjoy!
Hopefully only a couple of weeks to the finish line!!
Have a great week!
Gary
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Matt.. I'm sure you already did this, but sometimes it's good to repeat:
Be sure to polarize the generator. As soon as I did this, the generator began charging. Might save you some work!
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I have a question about the electric fuel pump. Does it turn on to simply prime the carburetor, then it's not used? And does it pump through the Buick fuel pump or is there a parallel line that bypasses the Buick fuel pump?
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Beautiful, smart and impressive work.
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The weather got into the 80's here today, so I dropped my plastic crate behind the wheel and drove her out into the cut-de-sac for a few daytime photos!
Even the Bradford Pears are showing off!!
Have a great weekend!
Gary
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On 3/30/2017 at 12:50 PM, 1967 - 1997 Riviera said:
Now I'd like to see just how you put the new, full-flow oil filter arrangement together. And what (spin-on?) filter you have chosen to use.
Somehow last year, (March 30, 2017 to be exact), I think my thread got a little mixed in with another regarding a full-flow oil filter. I didn't install an oil filter in the engine. I actually never knew it was even an option for this engine. I overhauled the block and restored it as close to factory as I could.
I change my oil in all my antique cars every 500 miles or once every year regardless of mileage.
So I'm sorry, but I cannot add any information regarding oil filtration for this engine.
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1938 Buick Century Model 61 - Four Door Touring Sedan - Trunk Back
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Matt...what bulb did you ultimately use in the switches? I have the same issue, very dull "HEAT" and a bright "LITE". Is there a number on the correct bulb you used?