Gary W
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Posts posted by Gary W
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I have to drop my tank to get the sending unit out. Could you do it while the tank was still in the car?
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Matt.. That body really looks nice and solid! Great find!
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Wednesday December 13, 2017: Door Sill Plates
Today I woke at 3:00 am. Left the house at 4:00 am sharp and drove to Boston to pick up my oldest son from college.
After packing the truck, (3 flights up!) then a quick run to see my daughter (also in college in Boston) I drove home.
I was tired after all that, but I did manage to take on a small Buick project when I got home: The door sills.
Flashback to January, 2017: Driver's side. All the detail is pretty worn off from the driver entering and exiting for 80 years.
Passenger's side. Hard to see, but the sill paint is all over the outer side of this door sill plate.
Tonight: Condition of the underside of the sill plates. Close-up
Pulled back a little. The side labelled is the passenger side, but after I cleaned them, I saw that they actually have two different part numbers stamped in.
The "up" side. Driver's worn out (top photo). The passenger's side still has some original paint in the grooves.
To clean the underside, I went out to the shed and used my trusty wire wheel. Nice and easy here, light touch.
The up side required an hour of scrubbing with Bon-Ami, Cameo and Quick-Go right in the kitchen sink.
After cleaning and scrubbing. I wasn't 100% satisfied with the edge that's going to show when the door is opened.
It is smooth, but 80 years of crud, rust, blemishes.... It doesn't show nice.
So, what I decided to do was wipe It down with acetone and.....
I used this "Aluminum" color paint and primer combo and gave them a quick coat.
I realize there are still a few dents, but this paint evened everything out.
They look so much more presentable now.
Installed.
I know I don't have the detail highlighted with black paint, but the detail is completely worn off the other side so I may just leave It like this.
Another view of the installed part.
Again... a couple little dents remain but I think the end product came out nice. Certainly an improvement.
I'm ready for bed! Long Day
Have a great night out there
Gary
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Larry;
I'm looking for a nice set of pans so if you have a set, let me know.
Also:
The gas cap is from CARS, Inc. here in NJ: Part # GC346L. It is a nice quality reproduction.
Fan Belt is NAPA, Part # 25 - 24457
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.... I vote "Do Something Crazy!!"
Congrats.... great find! You'll be making good progress now.
Great photos.
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Tuesday December 12, 2017: Fuel Cap and Air Cleaner
Little things but really nice before and after photos.
But First;
Randy: The lamps the car came with were non-functional decorative shells only. No guts, no wires, no sockets and very rusty throughout. So I got these with the Buick Logo in the center.
Matt: If you decide to part out the car, keep me on your list for the pans and the light switch. I really like the engine pans installed.
KongaMan: I don't see anything under there that would necessitate the design change. But I don't have a '38 to compare it to.
Tom: Thanks for the heads up. Do you think $150 is too much for that switch? I don't know what they go for, or what is a fair price?
(I purchased a rebuilt one for only $30, but it doesn't work properly so maybe you get what you pay for??)
I swapped out that other gas cap for this chrome reproduction with the lock. It really is a nice heavy part. Looks soooo much better.
Air Cleaner BEFORE.
AFTER. Bob painted it base / clear to match the horns.
BEFORE photo of the air cleaner and the condition of the engine bay.
Tonight. A year later. Amazing transformation of the entire area.
Have a great night and keep the advice pouring in!
Gary
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I can't wait for those drives! Beautiful!
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I could not find any '37 tanks being reproduced. Just as another option, I shipped my tank to Moyer Tank Renu. They got all the dents out, and coated the inside with a powder-coating like substance and I'm extremely satisfied with the work.
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Hi Matt.
I think we determined the difference is the overall length of the part.
What I labelled "S" is for 1937
What I labelled "C" is for 1938
If I use the longer switch, I'll also need a longer pull rod to actuate it.
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The top "spacer ring" in the photo:
Is it part of the carburetor or does it belong inside the air cleaner as a spacer for different size throats?
I have a part like that inside the bottom of my air cleaner, kinda wedged in there.
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Larry..
Three things I asked Santa for... Rear Bumper Gravel Deflector, a nice set of Engine Pans and a properly working headlamp switch.
(If anyone out there is reading between the lines..... )
Was the gas cap originally painted body color? I was going to buy the chrome plated locking one also, so maybe I'll just go that route.
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December 11, 2017: 11 months ago today I started the restoration.
Today marks 11 months since I first cleared the garage and removed the license plates and the bumpers from the car to start this fantastic journey.
I have nothing to report tonight except where I'm at today:
January 11, 2017: Centered in the garage and ready to be restored.
December 11, 2017: Although there is still a list of things that need to get accomplished, I feel like I'm in pretty good shape.
I'm hopeful the interior kit will be delivered soon. After that, it's bumpers, hood, trunk and doors. (And everything related to those things)
I'm going to polish up the door sill plates, get the rest of the stainless polished and store it inside until ready.
Still need to finish wiring the heater/defroster, triple lamps and radio.
All in all, a very productive and rewarding 11 months. A sincere "THANKS" to all the enthusiasts out there!
For someone who was a "newbie" just a year ago, this forum has been priceless.
Have a great night out there!
Gary
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Sunday December 10, 2017: Fuel filler, gaskets, first time out of the garage on her own power...
I got a couple of small projects done today. The big event was starting her up and driving out of the garage so I could organize and clean up. Nice feeling her get up and go!
Here's the lineup when installing the fuel filler neck. I got a new fender grommet. It cannot be used. After getting everything lined up, there was no way that grommet would sit properly.
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Flashback to January 2017.
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Filler tube installed, the mud shield is powder coated "mirror black"
Comparison photograph of the new repro on the left, the original grommet on the right. Notice the original has a "crease" in the middle.
That "crease" or "dent" is absolutely necessary to get everything to fit. The fender has a pronounced shape corresponding to that bend.
Here it is, nice and snug. By the way, is this the correct cap? I'm getting a little heat for the way it looks.
A few posts ago i cleaned, primed and painted the trunk mechanism. Today I traced and cut the gaskets to ready it for installation.
The punch makes the best holes and the job looks real professional.
Another project ready to go in.
Then, I couldn't take the mess in the garage anymore, so I decided to pull her out and make some room to clean.
Started her up, I sat on a plastic bin and got her some fresh air! First time out on her own power in 11 months.
Carefully watching so I didn't hit the door frame.
The paint really "pops" when it's outdoors.
11 months ago.
Today. Coming along!
And here's the mess I had to fix. I wanted to get organized before the hood returns, the interior.....
3 hours later. I'm pooped!
Couple things on the first start up.
1. The automatic choke appears to be operating. When the car sat outside for three hours in the 32 degree air, the choke was closed off solid when I went out to start it. I let it idle 15 minutes and when I went to drive it in, the choke was fully open.
2. I notice the charge indicator is a little erratic. If I juice it, and keep it at a high idle, it stays pretty stable on the charge side. When she settles down to a normal idle, the needle kinda "clicks" up, then to middle, the pops up to charge. Not a fluid motion, "clicky".
3. Oil pressure is holding nicely at 40 pounds on start up, 15 minutes later at 30 - 35.
4. I let it idle 15 minutes, and no overheating. (Although it is freezing out). Radiator was warmer up at the top tank, and noticeably less warm at the bottom.
5. It was difficult to start after sitting outside the three hours. I had to use starting fluid to get it to finally kick over. Is it possible the fuel is running out of the carburetor when it sits? This seems to be an issue for me.
All - in - all it was really nice to get behind the wheel again. Although I need to bolt that crate down. I step on the clutch, the crate tips back! Worth every second!
Have a great evening!
Gary
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My buddy John uses a wood broomstick. He holds the top to his right ear, and as he guides the pointed "business end" of the broomstick around the block, he'll touch low to hear any crankshaft noises, higher for wrist pin, piston slap, valve tap. Generator bearings, water pump bearing... Amazing how clear the sound comes through the wood pole.
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Yup... '38
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Can I ask about the front and rear bumpers. The outer bumper bolt head shows through the outside of the bumper. My outer bolts are housed in a "Keeper" all on the inside of the bumper so the outside appearance is smooth from one end to the other. All fasteners are inside. Is this a later bumper, or is it a '36 bumper... just curious.
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On 12/5/2017 at 12:52 PM, MCHinson said:
Hopefully this photo will help you picture how they are attached.
Thanks Matt! Now I get it! I always need photos to help me along....
Have a great night
G
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54 minutes ago, pplaut said:
My '36 model 48 has 16" rims. To get the new tire / rim combo to work, we had to drop back to a 15" rim.
My '37 has 16" rims also. ( I thought all the models had 16" rims except the Century with 15" rims? ) My new tires are 6.50 - 16 Firestone bias ply. The tubes and tires fit right on the rims.
Maybe I'm not understanding exactly what you had to do to get the tire / rim combo "to work"?
I would love to see a photo of your Model 48!
Here's my '37 Hubcap. Re-chromed and the detail is a laser-cut decal
Installed.
Gary
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Model 48 like mine. I really love looking at the photos so when I install my interior kit I have a guide.
Looks like sealed beams, but mine was also converted over at some point.
I noticed the car still has the "particle board"-like pads under the carpet with the jute backing. Even the trunk wall coverings look exactly like what I found.
The glove box doesn't match, but maybe the clock was installed later and it was easier to just swap the glove box door??
There looks like an extra knob and an extra button on the left side of the dash. Maybe to work the guide lamps and possibly a starter switch if the vacuum switch failed. (again, the same way I got my car)
I would agree with Matt regarding the paint. There are two photos where the paint in the door openings appear darker. (but photos sometimes distort)
I was really studying the photos to see if there are window sweeps between the glass and the door openings (not the garnish molding side of the glass, the door side of the glass) Still stuck on that.
Overall, it looks like a very complete car and the Model 48 body lines are beautiful.... (in my humble opinion!!)
G
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The difference between your garnish and the '37 that I'm working with is that you have that extra decorative trim on the outside to hide the rivets, staples..... My '37 is only wood grained. There is no trim so if I staple, rivet.... through the metal, it'll show into the car. That's why I'm so curious how these things go on.
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Hi Matt!
Good Luck with the body, I hope it all works out for you.
I was looking at the photo above of the window sweep attached to the inside of the garnish molding. I see the staples through the sweep, but what do the staples go in to? It looks like it's all metal under there.
Thanks! Gary
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Tuesday, December 5, 2017: Update: Rear Fenders are now installed
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December 5, 2017: Update: Rear Fenders are now installed
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Think about the Model "T" Fords.... The "Driver's Door" isn't a door at all, just stamped into the body to look like a door! The only enter / exit is via the passenger's side. And that carried on until 1926.
The Model "A" also locks inside on the driver's door, outside locking handle on the passenger's side.
I always thought it was that Henry didn't want people to exit on the traffic side?
I think some of the older Buicks (1914?) also had a "dummy" door on the driver's side? (Which was the right side back then...... so ......)
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GAS TANK SENDER FIXED
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Yes. ‘37 fills on the passenger side. There is a large rubber hose that connects the fuel fill pipe that protrudes through the fender with the tank.