[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Sunday November 4, 2018:  Marvel vs. Carter

I'm finally making the switch!

 

Today marks two years of ownership.  Boy has it been a steeeeep learning curve, I can tell you!

 

So, my day started out with a 15 minute drive to enjoy the early fall air before the hurly-burly of the day begins.  I got a couple of photos of the car in the fall colors.

This is a fantastic time of year.

 

You may recall that the car has "starting" issues in that it seems like the carburetor is running dry and the accelerator pedal needs "pumping" to get her to fire over.

She fires off, always leaving a black soot mark under the exhaust pipe, and then she settles out and off we go.

 

When the odometer read 20 miles, basically my first run out with her, I checked the oil and it was black!  This was the expensive "break in oil" and it looked terrible.

So I changed it.  I wrote off the "blackness" to the moly-lube we used to smear on all the bearing surfaces during the build, and assumed it was mixing into the oil.  Made sense to me.

 

When I came home this morning, (the odometer has only 50 miles on it) I checked my oil again.  It's getting very very dark for oil that now has only 30 miles on it.  And the oil level on the dip stick is actually a hair above the "full" line, when it was exactly on it before.

John came over, and quickly realized that I'm getting gasoline in my oil, and it's coming from the Marvel.  It must be leaking out into the intake manifold and diluting my motor oil.

So today I removed the Marvel and started making the necessary parts and stuff to convert over to the Carter that I bought last year from Jon the Carburetor King.

 

I wish I did it last year.  I just hope I didn't do any damage to the engine in the meantime.

 

Day started nice enough, the cool morning and the time change made for a nice morning drive.

 

When I got home, I checked the oil.  It only has 30 miles on it, and it is getting very very dark already.  

Then I smelled gas, and when I checked the Marvel, the base was soaked in gasoline.

It all started making sense why the carburetor always seems to run out of gas, even when sitting for a short time.

 

 

I purchased this Carter 608S last year from Jon.  

 

 

This is an NOS carburetor that Jon went through and replaced the gaskets......

This has an integral automatic choke, not a divorced choke like the marvel set up has.

It also has the vacuum start switch right on the unit as well.

 

 

I already bought the new 1/4" rod to bend a new throttle linkage, and a stainless tube to bend a new gas line.

 

 

When I removed the Marvel, you can see all the wet inside the manifold down there.

 

 

So, this week I'll be bending a new throttle linkage, removing the vacuum start switch from the manifold being the Carter has that switch right on it.

I think I'll move the wiper vacuum back to where the start switch is, and put a plug where the wiper line exits.  It'll look cleaner.

The vacuum advance tube fit right in with minimal bending into the new carburetor.

I'm going to bend an all new fuel line from the fuel pump right up to the back of the Carter.

All that seems easy enough to do. I'm planning on bending thin brass rod as a template before bending the final rods.

 

***  But the question....  How do I make the "stove pipe"(?), Hot air pipe (?), Hot air feed(?).....to work the automatic choke?

It looks like a vacuum setup, but where does it pull the hot air in from?

(I was thinking of removing my automatic choke unit, fabricating a blanking plate there, and tapping it to feed the Carter automatic choke......  will that work?)

 

Any photos of what you have, or how you hook that up, please send them along.

Thanks!

 

Gary

 

 

(Time for another oil change!!!)

 

Here's the link from the original carburetor conversation last year:

 

[1939 Buick Special restoration]

Do yours go in like the '37's?  There is a locking pin you access through the door.

 

 

 

 

I don't know if you have a similar setup.

[1939 Buick Special restoration]

It's just great watching how every part added back on makes her look more and more complete by the hour!

Wish I was there!  Really looks sharp!  Keep up the great work

Gary

[1937 Headlight switch]

Good morning Bobby!

 

I had a very similar thing happen to my headlights as well.  As a matter of fact, it started a whole discussion about the headlight switch as there were a few others that were experiencing the same issue.  I'm sure you know how that switch is supposed to work when you depress the dimmer.  The Guide "Multibeam" headlights have marked lenses for Left and Right.  The "hot spot" of the left lamp illuminates the right side of the road, while the right lamp projects most of its light straight ahead and to the left side of the road. (The beams "cross")

 Between the dash mounted headlight switch and the floor dimmer switch, you can get three separate beams:

 

1. Fully Depressed. (what we would call Low Beam) illuminating the road directly in front of the car, city driving.  The UPPER filaments of both lamps light to create this beam.

2. Upper Beam:  The LOWER filaments of both lights illuminate for high speed country driving (what we would call High Beam).  

.......And then there is

3.  The Asymmetric Passing Beam: In this mode, the LOWER filament of the drivers light and the UPPER filament of the passengers light illuminate.  It is used for straight roads as not to blind the oncoming car.  (** Your headlights look like the driver's light is in what we call a high beam, the passengers light is in a low beam.  But, as the beams cross, this won't blind the oncoming car, while keeping the right side of the road bright for you to see the white line, the edge of the road....)

 

So....

1. When your dash mounted headlamp switch is in position three, "city", the floor mounted dimmer should toggle you between condition 1 and 2 above:  Fully depressed to upper beam.

2. When your dash mounted headlamp switch is in position four, "country", the dimmer switch should toggle you between conditions 2 and 3 above:  Upper to Asymmetric.

 

First, be sure your filaments are lighting, and your bulbs are good.  That both filaments come on when they should.  If the upper filament in your passenger headlight is not working, then the light will go "out" when you depress the floor dimmer.

 

Next, play with your dash mounted switch.  Slightly pull the knob out a little, push it in a little, and see if you simply have "dead spots" or maybe the detents are a little off, preventing the triangles contacts to hit the circuit board contacts just right.  

 

When I completely rewired my car, my lights were doing the same as yours.  My drivers light went out completely when I stepped on the dimmer.  It turns out, that this was a concern with Buick going back to 1933, and they chalked it off to "hasty switch operation by the operator". Apparently there are "dead spots" within the switch that can cause this issue.  So, before you go crazy like I did trying to locate the problem, first please try to easily pull, push your dash knob slightly in or out and see it the condition goes away.  You might just be landing on one of the "dead spots" and the knob is a little off.  Actually, every time I touched my battery cables to the battery, I was getting a spark.  I basically unwired the entire car to ultimately find out that the headlight switch, when in the "off" position, wasn't off at all.  The dash chrome ring was preventing the switch from fully seating!  Drove me crazy!

 

 

From Buick:

 

From the 1937 Dealer Service Bulletin... Headlight fails to light.

 

 

Here's the link to pages 34 and 35 from last year.  (I was getting a spark from the battery connection at the end of page 33)

You will get a lot of information about the headlight switch: (touch the little arrow in the top right corner):

 

 

 

 

I hope this wasn't too long winded, but I had the same issue last year.

Gary

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Thank you for taking all that time to measure, photograph and send these in.  I truly appreciate the help!

 

I'll get out there soon (as soon as the Trick-or-Treaters are finished ringing the doorbell!)

 

You guys are great!

Gary

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Wednesday October 31, 2018:  Measuring for the Robe Rail:

 

I want to show you what photos I have from the disassembly, and the trouble locating the outer mounting holes:

 

This photo shows the outer passenger side attachment, but without perspective, It's hard to see where it actually goes.

 

 

Again, this photo I thought would be the best help.  But the photo looks "flat", the seat back curves and you lose all perspective.

There is the metal back, then a heavy padding, then the fabric, so I cannot feel the holes through all that material.

 

 

Then I thought this one would help if I just measure the wood blocks and make some lines, using my mountings as a fixed reference...

 

 

Same photo:  Believe it or not, those two red lines are parallel!  So it's very difficult working off a photo.

 

 

I measured my mounts and use them as a template.

 

 

I'm pretty sure I found the inner mounting holes using push pins.

 

 

But these outer ones are the issue.  I really don't think they "wrap around" the curve...  The mount is perfectly flat and won't work there.

 

Thanks for all your help!

Gary

 

 

 

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

1 hour ago, Stooge said:

How are the replacement rear leaf springs working? same jarring effect as the new front coils?

 

The rear leaf springs (from Eaton) not only hold the car at a perfect stance, but they ride like a dream.  I just took her out for another 15 mile ride, and she takes the undulations beautifully.

 Measure your front coils.  I had mine stretched to 14 1/2".  R&H Spring Shop did a "cold stretch" on them and the front rides beautifully now.  I honestly think I could have had them stretched to 15" without a problem.

The new front coils I purchased from Eaton simply did not give at all.  Way too stiff for the Buick front end, at least for my Special.  Maybe a heavier front ended Century, Limited or Roadmaster would have a better chance of making them compress.

 

 

 

 

She's sitting nice and level now.

 

Thanks again for your help!

Gary

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Please take some measurements for me!  That seat looks exactly like mine.  

I really appreciate you guys helping me out.  I don't want to take a chance ripping the fabric at this point.....

 

You guys are the best!

Thanks again!

Gary

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Carl!

Thats the measurement I need!  Thank You so much.  

I really appreciate you doing this for me.  

I'm going to use your photo now and try out your measurements against my seatbacks.

 

Gary

 

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

I Need A Favor......

 

I want to install the robe rails on the front seat backs.

Unfortunately, the seat backs were upholstered, and LBB did not mark where the mounting holes are.

I've been trying to use a straight pin to poke, in a "hunt and peck" fashion to try to feel where the pin drops through.

I think I've got the two mounts that are the most center, but I cannot find the outer mounting holes.

 

I do have photos of my seats when I took them out, but photos are two dimensional, and it's really hard to find the exact spot.

And you only get one shot at this, I don't want to mess up the finished seat.  So....

 

If anyone out there has a Model 48, and can help with a dimensional drawing, a template, measurements....  even a better photograph, I'd be grateful!

 

Appreciate any help.

Gary

[1939 Buick Special restoration]

I used double backed tape to hold the welt in place while I measured and cut the releasing cuts.  Makes fender installation much much easier

 

Paint looks great!!

 

[1936 Roadmaster trunk liner]

Because I have the shelf, the kit also has a mat to cover the shelf and a spare tire "curtain".

 

Sorry about the multiple posts....  I re sized everything down to about 700 kb, but still could not get them into the post.

[1936 Roadmaster trunk liner]

The floor and the side panels installed.  I used headliner adhesive to secure the side panels.

 

 

The tool shelf....  or tool area has a heavily padded fabric that is cut and sewn so it drops in there just right.

[1936 Roadmaster trunk liner]

The side panels that replaced the burlap fabric.

[1936 Roadmaster trunk liner]

My Buick is a 1937 Special, and the trunk has a shelf above the spare, but here are some photos:

(***  NOTE ***   I ordered a trunk kit from LeBaron Bonney in a nice striped pattern.  It is their Fabric  TL - 25. It is not what my car had originally.  Originally I had a "burlap-like" fabric on the sides of the trunk and a rubber-type mat on the floor under the spare tire.  But I like the new fabric, so I did the entire trunk in this fabric)  Here are some photos of the panels:

 

The floor mat has the cutouts for the wheel wells.  I had to cut it to make room for the shelf support.

 

 

 

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Saturday, October 27, 2018:  Front window garnish welting / install garnish moldings

 

I feel like things are being delivered in "dribs and drabs" but this morning LBB FedEx'd the front window garnish welts.

So I took advantage of the Nor'Easter and spent a couple of hours in the garage installing the garnish moldings.

 

 

Had to clean up the workbench.  Didn't want to scratch the woodgraining.

Here's the welt that was delivered this morning.  It is the correct 65" length.

The Model 48 has only two doors, and the windows are larger that the four door models.

 

 

First, I installed these rubber bumpers in the garnish.  They had to be shortened by 1/4".

 

 

The welt comes like this.  First I wanted to make a nice finish down where the molding meets the door.

 

 

I pulled back the fabric and cut the black rubber tube.

 

 

Then, by folding the material over, I got a nice, neat finish.

 

 

I actually duct-taped the end to the inside of the garnish, and began marking out all the mountings and the curves.

 

 

Once I had it all mapped out, I made all the releasing cuts necessary so the welt would lay in nice and flat and not cover any holes.

Then, I removed all that cardboard as it made it very difficult to make nice fluid corners.

 

 

Again, using Permatex headliner adhesive, I sprayed a small, light thin coat around the perimeter.

I figured I didn't need too much as the pressure from this molding on the door frame will most likely keep the welt secure.

 

 

After allowing the Permatex five minutes to tack up, I started the welting on the rear corner, and slowly began securing it in place.

 

 

I just went by feel here, allowing the inner rubber tube to just fall over the lip nice and even all around.

 

 

Then over to the door.  I don't have any pictures as I was working alone, but first I pushed the door lock mechanism screw all the way down into the door to give me just a little more room.

Basically, I was able to lift the lower edge over the door window sill and engage the lip.

A few well placed fist bumps and the molding fell into place at the lower edge.

Then, slowly I started from the bottom corners and with pressure, seated the part little by little.

I had to use a plastic tool in the corners to get it all around the brown fabric piece that I put in last week.

(My car did not have the fabric piece under the garnish welt when I took it all apart, but I believe it is supposed to be there)

 

 

Here you can see the garnish molding, the lace welt all sitting on top of the brown fabric piece.

The curvature really came out nice and smooth.

 

 

Here's the front section.  It's finally starting to look finished!

 

 

And then it was time to get the awl and find the holes buried in there!  It takes five screws to secure it into position.

Again, everything came out nice and straight.

 

 

And then, during the build I think I lost one of the original door lock buttons.  I'll have to seriously look through everything I have but I ordered this set of replacements in the meantime.

Of course, there is the obvious difference of the overall appearance, but....

 

 

The original part has a nice threaded insert to secure it into position.

 

 

The reproduction does not.  It is just a plastic hole that you thread as you go.

These developed small hairline fractures radiating from the center when I installed them.

For now, they're in, but I need to find my originals.

 

 

 

Next couple items:

Take delivery of and then install both front door armrests / door pulls   AND  rear pull up shade. (Still waiting on these from LBB)

Install the robe rails  (rope) to the back of the front seats.  My problem is that the fabric covers the mounting holes, and I have no idea where the holes are.

I do have photos of the seat back when I took the car apart, and I was going to try to make a scale "template" to help me out...  tomorrow..

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

 

[1925 Hood detail]

Very nice Larry!

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Coil Spring Specs:

 

I just ran out to measure the wire diameter of the new coil spring.  It is  11/16", or  0.6875"

Buick specified a wire diameter of  0.648"  ( 21/32" ) for the Series 40.  (It gets progressively larger through the series)

So the reproduction coil is made from a slightly (1/32") larger diameter wire.

So, being the height, #coils, wire diameter all seem to match, It must be the material used or the manufacturing process that makes the new spring unyielding.

 

Buick fabricated their coils from Silicon Manganese and specified a deflection rate of 95   (pounds/inch deflection at the wheel)

 

 

So, there are a few variables here that can affect the way the spring acts.  

 

Gary

 

 

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

On 11/25/2017 at 6:18 PM, neil morse said:

We have multiple reasons to be grateful to Gary for creating this thread, but one of the lessons that we can take from his experience in this restoration is NEVER THROW ANYTHING AWAY when you are dismantling your original car!  I haven't been keeping a detailed score, but the headlight switch, I believe, is either the second or third item that he needed to resurrect because the "new" part that he purchased turned out to be defective in some way. 

 

 

I remember this from last year and I'm so glad I did not throw out my original coil springs.  Those 80-year old springs saved the day!  

It's so baffling to me that we cannot reproduce a part like that exactly as is should be.  Springs seem like an easy part to make as long as the steel diameter, length, metal composition...... is the same.

But it's the "rebound" that was missing.  The new springs just did not compress at all.  

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Wednesday October 24, 2018:  Front "Ride Height";  Coil Springs  (Part 2)

The car is jacked up and supported by the chassis now.   The brake drums are hanging free.

 

 

I decided to measure with the front end fully free and hanging loose.  The measurement is now 7".. which means the difference is only about 3/8" from fully loaded to fully free.

Basically the difference of the rubber bumper squashing.

 

 

I removed the stabilizer bar linkage.

 

 

Lined up the jack so it is over the control arm closest to the center of the car.

 

 

Now the jack is supporting the control arm .

 

 

I removed these four bolts.

 

 

And slowly dropped the control arm down, releasing the spring.

 

 

The old, 80-year old spring on the left.  The new replacement coil on the right.

Again, they are very comparable in height.  It seems the diameter of the wire of the new spring is heavier.  It just looks beefier.

But I don't know if the new spring is harder, is composed of different metallurgy, is heat treated,......  I don't know.

All I know is that I could have installed a 14 1/2" metal rod and it would have acted just the same as these springs!

They simply DO NOT give at all.

 

 

After buttoning it all up, I had to go for a ride!  (of course)

 

 

She is sitting just right now.

 

 

It takes the bumps beautifully.  

 

 

I went back to check my measurements, and I am around 4 5/8"  A little over, but I don't mind that at all...

 

 

She looks great now, and handles so much smoother!

 

 

Post # 180 from 4/23/2017 details the coil assembly:

 

 

 

Have a great night out there!!!

 

Gary

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Wednesday October 24, 2018:  Front "Ride Height";  Coil Springs  (Part 1)

When I did the restoration, my rear leaf springs were broken and in horrendous shape.  I figured, I may as well change the front coils while I was at it so the car sat properly.

As the build progressed, those new coils just refused to sit down.  It was always "when the engine is dropped in, they'll relax....  when you drop the body, they'll relax...  when the front sheet metal is installed........."

And finally, "when you get a few miles on it and hit a couple bumps, they'll relax..."   It just never happened.

So...Yesterday, I bought both original coils to R&H Spring Shop here in Wall, NJ.  The springs were 1/4" difference in height, and they did a "cold stretch" to make both springs the exact same length.

Then, after work it was out to the wire wheel (again!), acetone wash and a coat of chassis black.

This morning, John came over and we removed the new coils, and installed the original, 80-year old coil springs.

I'm very happy we did.

 

Flashback to April 21, 2017:  My new coil on the left, the old original coil (Still sporting it's factory yellow paint!) on the right.

Note:  The new coil was about 1/4" taller than the original.  Looks like a direct replacement.

 

 

Last night, I spent an hour wire-wheeling the original coils, cleaning and spraying them to get them ready for today.

 

 

Buick Part #1297818 is located on the top coil that is ground flat.

 

 

Part # 1297818  "daubed with (yellow) paint for easy identification."

 

 

Remnants of the yellow paint are still intact.

 

 

I backed her out of the garage, and allowed the rear tires to hit the curb so she won't move when jacked up.

 

 

Just look how high the front fender sits!  And I can jump on the front bumper and cannot get it to budge!

 

 

The manual clearly states the distance as 4 1/4" from the control arm to the chassis for the Series 40 - 60.

 

 

So, while the car was sitting on it's tires still, I measured the distance.

 

 

It measures 6 5/8".  That explains the wide gap over the front wheels.

 

 

I used a plastic tool to release the hubcaps.  Tried not to mar the new finish.

Loosen the lugs first.....

 

 

Jack it up, remove the rest of the lug nuts, remove the wheels.

Then I slid the jack under the chassis and let the jacks hold the weight of the car.

The curb stops any rearward movement.

 

 

 

Here's the link to the front end disassembly from 4/21/2017:

 

Here's the link to the Coil Spring Removal Process specifically:

 

 

 

Part 2.....   NEXT!

 

 

 

[1936 Buick Century Exhaust Bracket]

I think you may have the "rigid bracket".  I think it attaches to the block.

 

[1937 Buick Model 48: "Frame-Up" Restoration with lots of photos!]

Friday October 19, 2018:  Seats installed and our first 5-mile ride:

 

Here's the latest update..  The seats are finally installed. 

I still have a few last interior items to attend to, but she's roadworthy at this point.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And this is just a quick 16 - second video clip of my son taking her for a spin:

 

 

 

 

Gary

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Hi Randy;

Scroll up the page to post 1314.  My son and I just installed the seats yesterday.  (Friday, 10/19)

They look great and the installation didn't take but more than an hour.

Thank you for following along!

I have a few more odds and ends to install before her official unveiling!

 

Gary

 

 

[1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)]

Friday October 19, 2018:  Maiden Drive......  Road Manners

 

Kyle got behind the wheel and took her out for her first drive.

I recorded this quick 16-second video, thinking I could drop it right here on the blog, but the size limitation only allows about 2 seconds of video.

 

Heres the YouTube Link:

 

 

 

Couple of observations:

All the gauges seem to be functioning fine.  

Oil pressure is around 30 - 35  when running, drops to about 10 at idle.

Checked the speedometer with the WAZE app and its right on the money.

Temperature stayed around 140 - 160...  But rose when we parked it back into the garage to about 180 after sitting for a few minutes.

It is pulling slightly to the right, I plan to get the front aligned soon.

The front end just looks and feels like it's sitting about an inch too high.  I think my new coils are for a Century or perhaps a Special with side mounts...  Just looks a little off.

The steering wheel needs to be centered while the car is running.  I thought I had it perfect but it is a few degrees off.

The horn blows when you steer to the left, but only when sitting still.  Not when driving.

The brakes work, but feel like they need to work better.  Maybe needs further adjustment at the wheels?

She runs strong, quiet and tight!  No rattles, squeaks... I think all the Dynamat / Dynaliner really helps the quietness.

 

Like I said earlier, we only put about 5 - 7 miles on her.  Its raining today.  I hope to stretch her legs a little more tomorrow morning.

 

 

Have a great weekend!

Gary