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Everything posted by cxgvd

  1. I'm stoked. This afternoon my wife and I attached the side panels to the main top and top stitched both sides. There that's done. The center section of the top is a straight edge and the side panels are curves and it is the reason the whole job lays nicely without wrinkles. Trimacar is helping us with advice every step of the way. Thanks, Gary
  2. Coming along well. I've installed the rear curtain and windshield baffle and have the three parts of the main deck roughed in. I've marked where to trim before joining the parts. The top material is 100" long, Bev is going to help me support the top as eight feet of Stayfast goes through the sewing machine twice. Regards, Gary
  3. My sewing machine has been working poorly and it was not entirely the fault of the operator. The machine would sew well for a couple of feet , then the thread would begin to fray at the needle. Turns out the needle plate where the needle carrying the thread would pass through the plate to the bobbin was rough and I managed to replaced it today. Hopefully problem solved. I finished sewing the rear curtain and tacked it up, I think I will get 2 additional yards of Stayfast topping material and try again. Practice, man, practice. In the photos today are the rear curtain with the
  4. Thanks John, good catch. The size and six diamond pattern I copied from a 1912 McLaughlin located in a Museum. The original photograph, from Calgary, Alberta BTW, shows five diamonds, so I will make the correction. Thanks again. The collector, which just rescued a 1913, sent me a close up of his rear curtain and the size is smaller ( 9X20") with five diamonds. There is another photo on these forums of a 1917 McLaughlin with five diamonds in two rows with an oval shaped window. My car is a 1915 and I haven't any proof which window shape is correct. I've pointed out before when
  5. Progress, and yet another example of " over restored." The main part of the top is 4' 2'' wide, side to side, I had to cut a strip off the length of the top material. That left me with a piece which was perfect for another strap running front to back. I see that style on big, expensive cars, I got the thread of an idea to incorporate the extra support on the McLaughlin. Then I stretched the top deck over the bows to mark with chaulk the outline where the sides are going to join the deck. Pretty straight forward, the tricky part will be fabricating the diamonds of the rear window.
  6. Very sorry to loose this event, the excitement will be missed. I was organizing an AACA Snapper's pre '16 tour this summer so I can imagine the difficulties trying to deal with closed venues. The Snapper's have rescheduled our run for the summer of 2021, is that something the Reliability Tour could do? Stay well, Gary
  7. The man, with the mustache, in the photo with number 8 was my friend Emile Hermery. He lived on an acreage outside of Red Deer on the road to Sylvan Lake and was a gunsmith/ locksmith. The great fellow who owned the car started collecting cars in the 1930's, his eye sight was failing so folks of our local car club, the Central Alberta Vintage Auto Club (CAVAC) would drive him and his cars to events. Funny story, once I was with Nettie in our antique car and my wife, Bev, was driving one of Charlie's cars when word got around we were wife swappers. On the run to the Banff Windermere
  8. Another milestone along the McLaughlin path, all the parts which hold the top to the car are in place, clamps, supports and covers removed, ready for the new top. I also made a pattern for the unique McLaughlin rear window curtain. Looks like a car now, full steam ahead. Regards, Gary
  9. When I lived in Red Deer, Alberta in the 1980's there two nearby. One, was a 1930?, big six, seven passenger, running and driving. We drove the Jasper Park Buick to the Banff Windermere National Parks Centennial in Radium Hot Springs, June 30, 1985, I still have the dash plaque. The car was dark blue and the owner would point out heavy scratches in the paint on the side of the car and tell people a bear made them. Maybe there is a picture or story from the BC event? The second was an eight cylinder, seven passenger touring car in storage. Hope this helps, stay well, Gary
  10. Took a long walk after lunch, talked with my older sister this morning, still had a few hours to work on our 1915 McLaughlin convertible roof. In the top photo is my Mrs. Bev using a steam generator to remove some bagginess from the thin cotton wrapping one of the wooden bows. In the next photo is my attempt to place one of top pads and fit a side panel of the roof deck from a piece I received with the car. The masking tape line is the projected height of the new top. I like upholstery work, it's light, clean and showy. Isolating with a fixed income and an interesting project.
  11. I do not worry about the value of antique cars, as a matter of fact, I have been wanting to add a '20's - 30's roadster for the past few years though I found them too expensive. I believe we are going to get a hefty round of inflation and that will cure current low values, not this year but next year. Governments around the world are running the printing presses as fast as they will go and dropping money from helicopters. Buy something, anything cash has no value. Stay well, Gary
  12. I completed my first of six top straps, they are used to tie the top bows together and support the top material with x or cross bracing. The straps are three thicknesses of topping material and because I had some light nylon strapping I included it, too. My Singer sewing machine worked like a champ, a hot knife through butter. I needed bonded polyester # 69 thread but with the stores closed I could not order any, I turned to Amazon and even though they showed the thread delivery time was four weeks. Luckily for me, a local restoration shop gave me a spool to use as much as I nee
  13. I apologize David for putting words in your mouth and appreciate your willingness to share with me and others. I do follow your advice, using tacks instead of staples would have never occurred to me. Please drop in on this thread occasionally, thanks. Gary Van Dyken
  14. Today I cut the duck cotton, which is a rough, thin material used to cover the wooden bows and top pads. In reading David Coco's advice I cut the bow material " on the bias" or 45 degrees and I installed the "duck" with tacks instead of staples. With nails it is easier to reposition the material to remove wrinkles and I do not know why I cut the material " on the bias" , I think it has to do with wrinkles too. In the photos, the first attempt to wrap the bow left a messy look, did much better the second time. The final photo are reproduction pins which secure the sockets to the
  15. Sun is shining and the spring is the time to go for a drive. The 1939 Century started quickly since resting since Christmas and our 30 mile trip around a country block was pleasant and uneventful, except for tooting at a few people we recognized and getting waves and thumbs up from others. Washed the car in the driveway, dried it and put it away, ready for pre war events, when and if they occur. I washed the car, my wife says it is too large, she looks after the white walls. Stay well, Gary
  16. David Coco (Trimacar) is a valuable resource for the AACA. I have been watching a fellow renewing his top on the Dodge Brothers thread and David once said he can take 40 hours just to align the bows before he begins the job of sewing and installing the new top. When I read that I thought to myself how can that be but since I am doing the measuring, lining up and rounding out the bows to produce a sharp looking top, I think how does he do the job so fast? In the photos under the pile of laundry is my project covered in wood chips after using a power plane to round out the bows. T
  17. I've painted the top irons, which is the last of the refinishing, except for any missed items. 1915 McLaughlin is painted. A fellow brass car enthusiast in Ontario recently acquired and arrived home with this lovely 1913 McLaughlin model 25 touring car. He sent me a snap. Best of luck, hope the car gives you miles of smiles. Stay well, Gary
  18. Try this. When I rebuilt my 3 3/4 X3 3/4" engine I overfilled the crankcase with a few liters, spun the engine by hand crank a few times to splash oil onto the cam, lifters, fill any pockets and drained the excess off using the petcock Brian mentions. Smoked when I started the engine the first few times but it is fine now. Best of luck, great looking McLaughlin. Gary
  19. The executive of the Snappers Brass and Gas have decided to reschedule their meets from this summer and push the events to 2021, which I am thankful for and agree with. The spring and summer 5 day tours will now occur in 2021 and the 2021 events will be 2022 and so forth. The Snappers have three events in the fall and are on for now but we will see. Bev and are working on returning registration fees and will not make plans for 2021 until after the Old Car Festival in September. On the garage front, I continue to work on the McLaughlin's top sockets and bows. In the p
  20. Beginning the job of fitting a new top by installing the sockets and bows to the 1915 McLaughlin C25 touring. Regards, Gary
  21. Experimenting with photo editing software, my Model 31 parked on a gravel driveway last May during the Gilmore Museum's pre war days. Regards, Gary
  22. Today I worked on getting my horn ready for paint. After removing it from the car I washed the horn 3 times with lacquer thinner to remove all oils which would weaken the adhesion of the new paint. The original finish was a thin layer of japan black paint which a spinning wire wheel stripped quickly. Next I sanded the parts with 220 grit sandpaper again to aid in adhesion. Washed the parts again with thinners and taped off the motor. I could have sandblasted the metal parts but I wanted to keep grit out of the motor. I have a collection of other parts to coat with epoxy primer
  23. I sorted out an electrical problem with a simple fix, I hope. When I acquired our 1915 McLaughlin touring car it had been fitted with accessory, or after market, push pull switches to turn on the ignition and begin the starter/ generator spinning. I've taken out the incorrect switches but that left me with the original switch which would work but only occasionally. It seems the paddle? was worn and making inconsistent contact to the starter/ generator wire. I cut a strip of brass shim stock, 001", glued and wrapped it around the paddle. I've added 0.003" to each edge of the paddle and it
  24. Thanks Doug; These are difficult times, Bev and I have no activities which we can attend for the next few months, everything on hold. My mom and I used to be considered homebodies, now I am self isolating and supporting the health effort. Not so bad for me, Bev, also stays home and makes me lunch. Life is good with friends and photography. Regards, Gary
  25. Yes Larry, our friends Charles and Darlene invited Bev and I to a high wheeler get together at the Gilmore Museum maybe about 2015. Earlier in this thread I said "these are the good old days!" I seems I was correct since we are facing, self isolation, postponements and cancellations today. The best part of the early car hobby to me is the willingness of owners to share their cars by letting us sit in them, give rides or teach others to how to master driving them. Here are a few more photos from the recent past I picked out from my files to demonstrate. Stay well, Gar
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