Kosage Chavis

Next was the entire front seat assembly.My car has the manual seat adjustment. You can use the adjusting lever to get better access to the front and rear mounting bolts.I removed the front hold down brackets first. Just slide the seat backward and remove the bracket on passenger's and driver's side.Remove 2 bolts from each bracket. Showing one of the removed brackets.Once hold down brackets are removed, adjust the seat in the foward position. You will now have clear access to the rear mounting bolts. Remove 2 bolts, both on driver's and passenger's side.The front seat assembly can now be moved out of the car. When doing so, be very careful not to hit or sit anything on the under seat heating fan assembly (driver's side).It is highly recommended that 2 people remove the seat assembly. This seat is extremely heavy. Unfortunately, I was stuck by myself to remove. Did I mention my car is in a 10 X 17 carport and had very little room to maneuver? I had to remove this behemoth incrementally. I somehow was able to get it done however. Showing the removal site.Showing the front seat assembly removed from car.Overall, difficult task. If 2 people do this, it becomes an easy task.

Next up were the pair of door stops.Simply remove 3 screws and remove stop. Each stop has 2 grips on the backside. These grips are sandwiched between the stop and body of car. Keep these all together. Showing the removal site.Showing the stops removed from car.Overall easy task.

I am going to do a total repaint. While I want to keep my car as original as possible, I don't plan on keeping the colors original. I do plan on a 2 tone scheme. Probably a lighter smoke grey over a darker smoke grey over a lighter smoke grey.

Glad to hear that Ben! I am happy whenever I can add any value to this Buick forum. What color(s) are you painting your car?

The hard work doesn't bother me at all. I assume the guides are the same. Just need the regulators. However, I was wondering if the manual regulators could be modified to fit the motors. More than one way to skin a cat...right?

Next up to be removed was all the window trim.I first removed the corner trim for the rear quarter window from inside the car. Just remove 3 screws (make note which screw goes in what hole, they are all different).Showing the corner trim removed.Next, was the slender bottom trim piece for the rear quarter window.Remove a total of 5 screws along the length of this piece. On my car, more than half of these screws were too rusted to remove with a philips screwdriver. I took a dremel with a small cutting wheel and cut a groove into the heads of those screws and then removed the screws with a flathead screwdriver. Once all 5 screws are removed, you will need to slide the trim piece out from the outer corner trim piece shown here.Just wiggle it while pulling until it slides out and the part is now removed. There is a rubber seal that I also removed. Not sure if there are new replacements. Mine was a little brittle at the edges. So I carefully peeled off. This rubber fits into the square notch shown at the top of the door post. Next, I removed the trim piece for the rear quarter window mounted at the roofline.There are 6 screws total that mounts this trim piece. All 6 screws are accessed inside the channel of this trim piece as shown.Once all 6 screws are removed, you will notice that this trim has an adhesive that bonds this piece to the roofline. Simply wiggle this piece while pulling down, off the roofline. Take your time and pull off very slowly to avoid bending. Make note that even though the outer corner trim piece shown here is separate, it will come out with the piece you are removing now.Both trim pieces should now be removed. Showing the rear quarter window area after trim removals. Finally, I removed the front window trim mounted to the roofline as shown (as you can tell, my daughter takes driving the Buick very seriously)!Again, you wil need to remove a total of 6 screws. All the screws are accessed inside the channel of this trim piece as shown.You will notice a special piece of rubber seal mounted on the most rear screw. Note its orientation and keep. Keep in mind that the screw at the very front is covered by a piece of foam seal. You will need to pull this back to find the screw. Once this trim piece is removed, you will notice that there is an associated gasket sandwiched between the trim and roofline. Keep the gasket and trim together. Showing removal site on car. Showing all the window trim removed from car. Overall, easy task.

So, I think I have asked this question before, but didn't get an answer. Can anyone tell me and/or show me the difference for regulators between electrical and manual applications? Of course the obvious difference is a mounting surface for the electrical motor. Also, this question applies to 2 door hardtop century/models. Thank you.

Another gorgeous weekend. After playing in the backyard with my kids, I took some time to remove more parts from the Buick. This time, I started with the rear window assemblies.First, I mapped the order of removal for each nut/screw. Most of the screws/nuts were sealed with some type of gummy substance. Just peal away with something that has a flat head until you have access. As you can see, there are 9 total connection points for the whole assembly.Be sure the window is in the closed position. If you don't have the hand crank, a pair of plyers will do. Just be sure to not damage the splines on the regulator. There are 2 channel guides for one assembly. I decided to remove the smaller of the 2 guides first, which is the one farthest to the rear (the picture below is a passenger's side view). There is 1 screw and 1 nut that holds this guide in place (labeled as 1 and 2 in the picture above). Remove both. Reach in the access hole and pull the guide out from inside until you clear the screw hole. Then, pull the guide down until the guide rolls off of the rear window roller. Showing the rear guide removed.Next is the last guide which is much longer. Remove 2 screws and 1 nut (labeled as 3, 4 and 5 on the picture above). Reach back into the access hole and pull the guide out from inside until it clears the screw hole. Pull the guide down until it rolls off of the front window roller. You will have to manipulate this guide a bit to remove.Showing the front guide removed.We can now remove the window. The window is only held in place by the guide in this picture. First, roll the window down slightly to clear the trim at the top (be sure to hold window with one hand while doing this to prevent window from falling). Pull/push the window foward while angling a bit to clear the regulator arm roller from the center window guide. The window is now free and can be pulled out of its slot. You will have to angle the window in a bit before it can be pulled out completely. Take your sweet time doing this to avoid scratching up the chrome on the window frame. Showing the window removed.Finally, I removed the regulator. 4 screws hold this in place (labeled as 6, 7, 8 and 9 in the picture above). Remove all 4 screws while holding regulator in place. Pull the regulator out from access hole. Showing both window assemblies removed from car.Overall, easy task.

Not sure how much different the pulleys are between a 322 and a 401/425, but I know that on later 322's with AC, you had one 2-grooved pulley mounted with one single-grooved pulley.

At first glance, it looks very intimidating, but it's so easy to remove.

I couldn't figure out what to remove next, so I decided to do something quick and easy...the door ajar switches. Showing the rear of switch. Just pull the connector out from switch and label. Remove 2 screws and pull switch and associated gasket from the car. Showing removal site. Showing switches outside of car. Overall, easy task.

After a little bit of a lay-off, I was able to continue removals on this gorgeous day! I started with the emergency brake release assembly.Just a look at the mounting bolts.I chose to detach the emergency brake cable first. Just remove the cotter pin and tap the cable end out from the hole.Showing the cable end detached.Remove both bolts that retain the emergency brake cable brace.Remove the last 2 bolts. One of these last 2 bolts also mounts the fuse panel in place. Make note of this. Once the last 2 bolts are removed, the assembly will come right off. The last thing that needs to be done is to detach the emergency brake warning light wire from the fuse panel. This wire is at the No.1 slot on the panel.Showing the emergency brake release assembly removed from car (shown in 2 pieces)Overall, easy task.

I wonder who the car belongs to. It would be cool if it were someone who's a member of this site.

Am I the only one who caught this? I am salivating, but it's not over the new chalupa. Gorgeous 1955 Buick Century, 2 door, hardtop in the backround, just like mine!

Just got done digging through my trashcan. 2 compression springs...compliments of Mr Willie.

Just received these small spare pieces for my power window motors. Now I just need to find a replacement compression spring. Compliments of Mr Willie.

I have a 55, 2 door hardtop, but my trunk has not been stripped out yet. I would be more than happy to post pictures of mine by this weekend, but it sounds like you need pictures of a stripped trunk. Just let me know.

Yes Sir, I did. The old grease was part of the problem so I made sure I cleaned it thoroughly before putting any new grease in it. I posted all my progress on the "post-war" forum. If you are curious at all, here's the link (covered between pages 3 and 4):

No Sir. They are much different. Not sure how much that affects the difference in regards to seals.

When I purchased a set of factory power window motors, I found that 2 of them were non-functional. With some help from my Buick family (especially Ben), I was able to repair both and get them functioning again. Now, I have a full set of good power window motors. I am very pleased with how everything turned out. I also learned and now know a little more about electrical parts than what I did before. I have always dreaded working on electrical parts because I hated dealing with them. Now, I am a little more confident and comfortable with working on it. Here's some video of the repaired motors.

At last...

Yes Sir, that exactly what I have. As a matter of fact, this one is in the same shape as mine...one brush looks good while the other doesn't. Only difference is that both of these springs look to be in good shape.

Yes, I know of 2 places in my area that rebuild motors. I went to Lowes, hoping that I could find a replacement compression spring. No luck. The OD of the spring is 6mm and has an approximate length of about 1.3125" (uncompressed). I figured I'd fix the more cheaper and obvious problem and see if it makes any difference. If not, I will move to the brush. I can tell you that the wire that connects to the brush is frayed and worn. Also, the solder is broken at this same wire and needs to be resoldered. I might play with it more tomorrow and see what else I can do with it.

So finally, I was able to clean the last motor and get it put back together. A while back I said that the inside showed signs that it had overheated. One of the brushed and the associated wire was badly burnt...so badly that its compression spring lost all integrity and was in a permanent compressed state. All I want to do was to make sure the motor worked, so I removed the spring and carefully stretched it back out. I lightly sanded and cleaned the contact surfaces of the brush. After dousing the insides with electrical contact cleaner and blowing it out with compressed air until dry, I put back together. I hooked the battery back up to the motor, I was able to get to work briefly!!! There is life after all. However, it will need a new brush and compression spring to work properly...which is fine with me. At least I can pack the motors up now knowing I have a full set that I can work with. Thank you for all your help.

Fingers crossed!