Kosage Chavis

If I didn't have other priorities for my car, I would definitely have to take you up on this offer Mr Lamar. Good luck.

Just wanted to also welcome you Andreas. Love your car. I hope you will post plenty of pictures of the process.

Crank pulley, compliments of Matt. Crank pulley with associated crank pulley spacer, compliments of Doug.This pulley and spacer will give me the 3rd groove needed to operate the AC system. I am now just 2 steps from a complete factory AC system. Just need the scoop assembly and set of clear ducts. Also, a couple of factory light sockets, compliments of Doug.One of these light sockets will serve as illumination for the ignition switch, a feature of the 54 buick, but for whatever reason, was deleted on the 55 buick. I decided to bring it back for my car.

No librarians that I know of, but I will take that as a compliment. I didn't even think about using newspaper instead of plastic bags. That's a good idea and will use it. Thank you.

Are you still parting this car out? Thank you.

Thank you for that Mr Willie!

Didn't get anything done the past weekend in terms of removals. Spent time with the kids, tore down an old deck and got ready for Halloween. However, I was able to box up a few things.Each piece that is removed is boxed up with plenty of saved walmart plastic bags to ensure fragile parts remain safe over time. Depending on the part, I will also add bubble wrap. Any associated fasteners and/or miscellaneous pieces go into a labeled zip lock bag and placed in the same box. The box is then sealed and labeled. I do keep a book where I record important information on each specific box/item. I record the given box number, date of when item was stored, what the box consist of and exactly where it is being stored. If anything such as location of storage should change, I must update the book. I created my own labeling system. The label is broken into 4 parts: 1ST IN: any part accessed from interior EX: any part accessed from exterior EC: any part accessed from engine compartment TR: any part accessed from trunk UN: any part accessed from underneath the car 2ND DS: any part accessed from driver's side PS: any part accessed from passenger's side C: any part accessed from center of car 3RD F: any part accessed from front of car R: any part accessed from rear of car 4TH this contains a 4 digit number that gives the order in which each part is removed. In the case where 1 item is an assembly that will be broken down into smaller pieces at the later time of restoration, each sub-part will be labeled with the same part number with the addition of a 3 digit number. This 3 digit number will be given in the order of the removal from the larger assembly. All boxes are placed on my shelving unit in my garage and much larger items are placed inside my locked shed.I do not take anything for granted. This is my defense against losing pieces, forgetting where the part is installed at and breakage. This process allows me to take my time and keep an organized and clean workspace. I also back up everything done on this car with plenty of pictures and video if necessary. If you can't tell already, this forum has become my diary which is a tool also. Finally, I have you all, to whom have given much advice, encouragement and in some cases, parts that I am looking for to aid in my process. Thank God removing things from a car doesn't cost me anything, which gives me the time and money to search and purchase the accessories I need to make this car just like my Dad's/Grandad's buick. Once the time comes for restoration and installation, I will take it one task at a time.

Would you happen to have the exploded view for the 4-way p. seat for the small body series? Also, are power seats from oldsmobile, pontiac, cadillac or chevy interchangeable to a small body buick?

I have a well thought out plan. Trust me. Lord willing, you will see.

Well, I am only 5'-8". But either way, I have made up my mind about installing the power seats. It just depends on what I can get my hands on first...the 4-way or 6-way. I do appreciate the advice and I am always confident in the help of my Buick brothas!

I would definitely be interested in a 6-way power seat if one was available.

Okay, how about this...can a 2 way seat be easily made into a 4 way seat by simply adding an extra motor.

Thanks so much for that Mr Willie. So if I am removing a power seat from a junked car, how can you tell whether one seat is 4 way or 2 way. I assume that a 2 way seat has only 1 motor versus the 4 way seat that has 2 motors.

Not a problem Mr Willie. Thank you.

Anyone?

Does anyone have pictures of a 4 way power seat for a 55 buick century or special? I would like to see some shots of the seat skirts so that I can see the difference between the seat skirts with power seats and manual seats. Thank you.

I will be sure to treat it in that manner Mr Lamar.

It's funny you should mentioned that Mr. Willie. I was thinking to myself when I was looking for those 4 bolts that hold down the steering box, "I am probably looking right at the bolts' faces and won't even realize it until I start removals in the engine compartment."

Time to remove the front dash.First, remove screws that hold down the steering column firewall seal and pull off the firewall. Seal remains on the column and will be removed at a later time.The next step was to remove 4 bolts to the steering box in the engine compartment. The idea behind this is to allow the steering wheel to drop while the steering box raises up, like a seesaw. Well, after some time of trying to figure out which bolts to remove on the box and with time running out, I opted to abandon that step. Too bad, it would have made things so much easier. However, removing the steering column firewall seal gave me just enough play in the steering column. I rested my chest on the steering wheel while planting my left foot at an angle that would allow me to push off of it. I put all of my weight onto the steering wheel and pushed off my left foot, pushing the steering column just enough to the passenger's side, that I was able to get enough room between the column and the driver's side body and lift it up and out. Now, showing the front dash removed from car.Overall, this task was difficult. Drop the steering wheel if you can.

So, just a few little things still need to be done before we are able to remove the whole dash. First, pull out the signal/high beam indicator light assembly from behind the dash.Remove the emergency brake indicator light just below that...and then remove the screw that holds this wireway brace below that.Showing the rear of dash these last 3 items attach to.Decided to also remove the shift indicator to make sure it doesn't break when removing the dash. Just remove the 2 screws and slide out from top of steering column. Showing the shift indicator removed from car.Overall, all of these tasks were easy.

The speedometer is almost impossible to remove with a lot of things still in the way. We will need to create some space by freeing the rest of the dash from the car. The last thing that holds the front dash in place are the mounts on the very outsides of the dash. To gain access to the outer dash mounting bolts, you will first need to partially remove the decorative strips that line the foward part of the door opening. Remove screws that line these strips along this edge shown here. There is one screw that is impossible to get to, right between the body of the car and the mounting area of the outer dash to ccompletely remove strips. On this side in the picture below, mine broke while the one on the other side is still intact. Don't worry about this as long as you can move these strips out of the way enough to get access to these bolts.Remove these 3 bolts on both sides of dash. The dash should now be free enough to move around a bit, but not enough to remove completely out of the car. However, I now have room to remove the speedometer. The decorative dash nameplate wil also be removed.Unscrew the speedometer cable and pull both light sockets from rear of housing.The knob for the tripometer and associated foundation should have been detached when removing the tubular dash braces (previous post).Tripometer cable will be removed with speedometer as one assembly. Remove the 2 inner nuts that holds the speedometer inside the dash. You can now pull the decorative dash nameplate from the dash. Now, remove the last nut that retains the speedometer while holding in place. Carefully remove speedometer aassembly. Showing speedometer removed from car.Now showing the dash nameplate removed from car.Overall, easy task.

Another set of dash braces need removal. This last set of braces are mounted just above the steering column.Each brace is held on by 2 bolts...1 at the bottom (shown just to the outside of the hanging bolt).And then 1 at the top (of each). Simply remove bolts in no particular order. Showing the tubular dash braces outside of car.Overall, easy task.

Next would be the steering column brace.Simply remove both brace-to-dash mounting bolts. Finally, remove both steering column clamp bolts. Separate the clamp from steering column and remove the associated rubber liner. Showing the brace removed from car.Overall, easy task.

I would then move on to the most difficult of all the interior removals...the front dash. I started with the set of radio braces that also brace the center of the dash in place.Remove the single bolt at the top of each brace and then remove both bolts on the bottoms of each brace, located at the speaker opening of the dash.The passenger side brace will have a wireway attached to a clip. Remove from clip.Showing radio braces removed from car. Overall, easy task.

On my car, I have a speaker control switch.If I had a knob, I would have just simply pulled it off. This would give you access to the retaining nut. Unscrew and remove from dash.Showing the switch removed from dash. The switch will be removed from car at a later time. This task was easy.