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Anyone need a radiator for a 56.. It was recored 15 years ago still have paperwork.. It has a high efficiency 3 core in it.. Never had a heating problem with it but it does have a small leak on the bottom tank.. About every six months it needs a little adding to it... I'm not interested in shipping due to size and weight... I'm in Albuquerque nm .. Thinking 300

Not the best picture but the 56 is mine.. Daily driver.. The Oldsmobile is a 52.. Customers car

As far as I've been told 57 is different.. Don't know if it's different but still usable..

Right now a good comprise seems to be defrost out vent halfway.. Adjust temp as needed

Dual point double the fun double the trouble lol

Yeah i was afraid of that lol

Boy I'd have to dig up where I set the springs and bushing at..I think Spring wise it was set to the second to lightest springs and the bushing I think it has the largest bushing.. Now as to where my timing is set.. Well I'm not quite sure.. Everything matches up at tdc but if I set it to five degrees you can't even drive it.. So it's set at about 30 degrees which can't be actually 30 degrees but yet everything lines up at tdc.. All I know is it cranks fine and runs great lol

Any idea what the common suspects are for annoying buzzes from the heater box area.. It'll buzz if the vent is turned on but only with the blower going... It'll also buzz if the vent is closed and of course no blower.. Guessing it's the vent flap rubbing on the box??

I'm assuming you're talking about the msd distributor not the boxes.. I've been running their distributor for a few years..expansive yes.. Works well. Yes lol

I went with these guys for my 56 Buick..100 percent new and 100 percent USA pricey but no problems and in stock http://www.caparadiator.net/classicrad

I'm guessing the positive cable is just barley touching a post it shouldn't be

You're right zinc isn't a myth what is a myth is that there is zero zinc in modern oil.. That's not true even slightly.. What's also a myth is that there's not enough zinc in modern oil for old engines also not true for the large majority of old engines out there...

Zinc didn't really come up although that was one of my concerns about running regular off the shelf oil..I know see it's a myth that really shouldn't affect most people

The hex head has seen better days.. It's fine has been for years but I'd like to replace it at some point

So you just used the 18-1.5 plug with I think a 19mm hex and no problems thread wise

I didn't see any 10w 30 listed but looking at the castrol 5w 30 it has about 800ppm zinc which is supposedly what was in the oil back in the 50s

I'm guessing a copper crush washer

No idea but the book does say that both the engine and transmission drain plugs are 18mm.. Now 18 by what it doesn't say lol

So the book says 18mm which the few I find have a 19mm hex.. Online they are saying 11/16-20 with a one inch hex... My current one has a one inch hex.. Hmm... The 18mm ones I'm seeing do look to small

Does anyone know where to find a non oversize oil pan drain plug for a 322.. All I'm finding are the self tapping oversize ones

I think this next oil change I'm going to try castrol gtx 10 30... Not really concerned with pressure rise just couldn't help but notice that with the 5 30 it pegged quick compared to the 5 50 I guess my assumption was if it pegged the gauge that fast it would be reaching other areas just as fast

I normally run castrol syn 5w 50 but noticed it takes a second to build pressure and it's slow.. The previous owner was running castrol gtx 5w 30 and it would build instantly and quickly... Hence my thinking of going back to that

Anyone running a 5w 30 in their nailhead

I know all the tricks to removing the dash and wiper escutcheons but I'd like to get the actual correct tools...I found on eBay a Mac brand sc18 tool that says it's for old buicks and the measurements seem about right for the headlight switch.. Anyone experience??

Well I stole your idea.. Just rigged up my own brake light switch pretty much like yours.. Always annoyed me u had to be pushing on the brakes a bit before they would light up.. Not anymore:) be safe out there