wayne sheldon
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Posts posted by wayne sheldon
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1 hour ago, sagefinds said:
Sure is a big hole in that left front tire,looks hollow inside,kinda wonder why it isn't flat. Oh,and an old friend of mine called his a Stupidshaker.
That tire reminds me of one I saw many years ago at a swap meet, on display, not for sale. It had been a recent "barn find", not the whole car, just the wheel and tire actually found in a real barn.
The tire had had some significant damage, and was mounted on the wheel/rim. Through the damaged area, the tire was filled with cement! It had clearly been driven on like that for many miles! The cement did not fill quite evenly, and the hollow spots had beaten halfway through the remaining tread!
Must have been an interesting story behind that wheel and tire!
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If i lived near there? I would leave a paddle leaning against the railing.
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My first antique automobile, a 1929 Reo coupe, had a rim spreader under the seat when I bought it. Sold the car almost fifty years ago, but still have the rim spreader! It is a nice one. Some years back, I got a couple of them in a pickup load of parts I bought cheap. They were broken, one of them badly repaired. I worked them over, made a replacement piece for one of the hand cranks. I straightened some bent arms (both had been BADLY abused!), and re-brazed some broken castings. Now I keep my nice one nice, and use the two repaired ones. The smaller one for model T rims (light duty), the bigger one for the Paige's rims! They are a lot tougher to work on!
Fun stuff!
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37 minutes ago, Rata Road said:
nothing to put them on....yet!
Something to look forward to!
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Nice one!
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Looks like a really good rim spreader! No good size reference, however it looks larger and heavier than a lot of them!
As Bob (1937hd45) says, the step plate looks like a 1928/'29 model A rumble seat step plate. There were two, slightly different. Originally, one mounted on the rear bumper brackets, the other on the top of the rear fender. I believe the curves on the underside of this one indicates it was originally for the top of the fender. The odd bracket is very interesting, and looks fairly well done. The angle of the mounting base may indicate it was intended to mount about halfway up the fender. It could work for either the front or back half of the fender. This might have been done to make it easier for a child to climb into the rumble seat without scratching the fender?
The headlamps look nice also!
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I imagine that you are looking for the typical era three arm screw jack type rim spreader? There were many different manufacturers of those. Generally speaking, all of them were intended to fit a range of sizes of rims. One of the most common sizes of rim spreaders tops out at just over 21 inch (rim size). So, basically, almost any rim spreader you are likely to find should work on your 20 inch Chrysler rims.
There were some cars of the late 1910s that used much larger size rims! I have seen 27 inch collapsible split rims, and 25 inch were fairly common. Finding a rim spreader large enough to spread those size rims is very tough!
I don't know about your side of the world? However, here in California, finding and getting 20 inch collapsible split rims is difficult. I need a couple rims myself, and although not urgent, I have been looking for some for twenty years. I did manage to pick up one about ten years ago. I have seen many 21 inch non-Ford split rims, and even a few 19 inch. I know a lot of people and cars using 20 inch split rims! But finding available 29 inch rims around here is tough.
Good luck at your upcoming swap meet!
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Frankly? If I were in the market for something like this in this sort of situation? I would not want someone putting it back together and getting it running so that I could test drive it. But that is me. The fact is that it is too easy to close up a badly cracked block, tighten up rods with Babbitt beginning to crumble, or sealing any of a dozen chamber leaks just well enough to sound and feel good.
I would much prefer to examine it very closely myself, get a real feeling for how good or bad the block appears to be (ANY car could actually have an engine block ready to split in half!). Then decide to risk it or not. If I decided to take the chance, I could dig a little deeper and fix it better than I would expect anyone trying to dump a car (whatever the reason?) would likely have done.
The "Any car-cracked block" comment? A very long time ago, I did buy and begin restoring a model A Ford. Before I decided they were just a bit too new for me. I got a bargain buy on a decent original model A. The previous owner had had a minor accident with it, and wanted to get rid of the damaged one after buying a nicer replacement. It just so happened that I had most of the parts needed to repair the accident damage, so for the bargain price I drove the damaged car home. That was one of the sweetest running model A Fords I ever heard! It performed quite well. However, when I took the engine apart? I found a crack in the block running the full length of one cylinder, across the top surface, down through the valve port and through the chamber. That block was almost literally ready to split into two big pieces! But it sure ran nice!
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7 hours ago, kcmadr said:
I have settled on tagging this as a 1915 Ford Model T Brass Radiator.
Sounds reasonable! The clarity and angle of the photo just doesn't give enough detail to take it much further. The wheels are later 1919 or likely even later demountable rim wheels. However, even back in the 1920s, many people switched to the more convenient demountable rim wheels on older Fords. And a lot of restorers (way more than half I think!) back in the 1950s and 1960s used the later wheels on earlier brass model Ts. So the wheels generally do not actually indicate the year of a model T.
A funny thing about model T Fords is that in the 1950s and 1960s, most of what was "known" about model Ts was mostly from people's faulty memories! The truth is, that a lot of what people were sure about in those days was flat out WRONG! Serious historic research into the model Ts began in the late 1960s, and little by little the factual details have largely been sorted out.
The majority of older restorations of model Ts usually have a lot of mistakes in parts used on the car. Only an up close examination can really determine just how right or wrong a car's restoration may have been.
This particular runabout presents itself as a 1915, and short of a close examination should be referred to as such.
Certainly a nice looking car! It looks a lot like mine! Only mine isn't nearly as nice. However, I still like mine!
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A well earned tribute to be sure!
Congratulations to you Ed!
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I hate to say this. But it was likely built in the 1950s or 1960s as a fantasy vehicle. Numerous companies built hundreds of similar vehicles.
If that is what you wanted, and the price was reasonable? Enjoy it! A person can have a lot of fun with these.
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That is just nasty! It always saddens me to hear of the loss of a beloved dog or cat (sometimes even a bird!). But first a long time companion followed by a fresh new puppy!
Those furry little pests sure have a way of grabbing one by the heartstrings!
We recently had one of the most loving cats ever die suddenly at less than two years age. Apparently some genetic issue.
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A 1926 model T wire wheel uses the same 21 inch tire as a 1928/'29 model A Ford. The quantity of those is high enough that they aren't nearly as expensive as the clincher tires for model Ts are.
Most collector car tire dealers should be reasonable. However, and I have never done business with them myself so cannot say with any authority whether or not they are okay, I hear that Summit Racing usually has the best price with shipping included.
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So Harry Jewett may be a distant cousin of yours? He was quite a remarkable man! Athlete in college. He became an engineer and figured out better ways to handle and transport coal. From that he became a coal merchant making a sizeable fortune buying, selling and transporting coal from where it was to where it was needed! As a relatively young wealthy man, he invested money into the fledgling automobile industry, becoming a major shareholder in the Paige startup. Still traveling around the country dealing in coal, he checked with local Paige dealers and found his investment was in jeopardy. Long story short, in short order, he took over the company!
At around that time, he had sold his coal business to (in a twist of early automobile fate!) Alexander Malcomson, who was the largest money investor in the young Ford Motor Company!
Freed from his coal merchant business, Harry Jewett jumped into turning the Paige company around and it became one of the most successful and profitable small automobile manufacturers. Between 1911 and 1927, under Harry Jewett's leadership, Paige lost money in only one year! The same postwar recession year in which Ford lost money!
Harry Jewett was a conservationist, owned and donated a large estate as a park. a truly remarkable human being. People, especially in this hobby, should be more aware of him, and his accomplishments.
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11 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:
More woodlites
Since the page flipped? I'll "quote" the picture!
Thank you 30DodgePanel and Casper Friederich from Finland!
Woodlites were probably added after-market?
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I think that is an Essex.
(With the Woodlites!)
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I believe it is a 1925, one of the larger models that year, probably a model EQ based upon the radiator. It may be an early 1925 before many of the enclosed bodies got the longer roof line. It appears to be a four-door sedan, not one of the Duplex Phaetons.
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Mrs. Belmont's butterfly is quite the parade car! I wonder if that is a Benz under all that decoration?
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Wonderful photos! Some really incredible automobiles! I am curious however, what are the criteria for this tour? I see several cars I would expect to see on the London to Brighton Run, even a couple I am fairly sure I have seen in videos and photos from the L to B. Several other cars are clearly about 1908 (the Ford model S might be as early as 1907?).
Thank you for the photos! And the videos I will watch later when I can be uninterrupted!
I am envious. I have many thousands of miles in model T open wheel speedsters and racing cars! Probably a couple hundred miles in the rain, sometimes very heavy rain!
One of our most memorable Endurance Runs? We got stuck behind a herd of cattle being driven from one pasture to another. Do you know what cattle do when walking (and they do it a LOT more than you might think?)? Try THAT in an open wheel car!
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Just to be clear, there are three items there. The flip-top cap, the Motometer itself, and the diving girl attachment. Items generally sold separately. And each item individually varied a lot with a great selection to choose from for each of the three items.
The cap, unfortunately was one of the pot-metal versions. It is showing signs of disintegration, so its value is limited to mostly a shelf piece. Very similar caps were also cast in brass, and are much more suitable for use on cars to be driven.
The diving girl also appears to be pot metal, however in somewhat better condition. Whether or not she could survive cleaning and re-plating? Difficult to know. Again, these were sometimes cast in brass and better suited to withstanding the vibration of a driven car. A good friend had one like yours many years ago. Re-plated nicely and looked beautiful for several years. Then one day he said he "was driving down the freeway and watched helplessly as she dove off the Motometer!" All that was left of her on top of the Motometer was her feet!
However, these are beautiful and so era-nice that If I had one, I think I would have to put it on a car!
The Motometer is a nice one! One of the larger models. They came in a bunch of slightly different sizes (looking or measuring from the sides?), beginning around 1918 onward to about 1930. It has the fancier wreathed bezels, and fancier gold rearward thermometer plate. Both plusses for many people!
The Masonic badge will add considerable interest I would imagine! What it might do to the cap's overall value? I wouldn't care to even guess.
Motometers were offered by many automobile manufacturers as factory options, usually with the marque name on them. In addition many automotive parts stores and dealers offered Motometers as after-market accessories with many choices for name badges. Many tens of thousands of Motometers were sold with any of the dozens of standard "Boyce" name plates. Parts dealers often carried hundreds of plates including some of the rarest of automobiles. Leftover dealer stocks make some of the rarest car's nameplates quite common (at least many years ago before people started throwing away what they couldn't sell?). Some of the rarest and most valuable Motometer nameplates are for early tractors, some selling for thousands of dollars! (Tractor collectors are extremely competitive!)
Other nameplates represented anything from municipalities to automobile clubs, and popular fraternal organizations. Those values can be anywhere from worthless to crazy high!
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Do you know if your wheels are stamped steel and welded? Two or four (half of a half) piece cast steel and welded? Or one or two (half wheel) piece castings?
These type of wheels were much more common in England and Europe during the 1910s and 1920s because Europe did not have large supplies of appropriate wood for wooden spoke wheels. In America, thousands of acres of Hickory provided a nearly inexhaustible supply of one of the best woods on the planet for automobile wheels. Forests in America were conveniently close by, minimizing transportation costs. As automobile technologies and styles changed over the early decades, wheel designs also needed to change . Eventually much higher speeds adding to the stresses endured by the wheels, coupled with improved manufacturing technologies made wooden spoke wheels impractical.
England and Europe during those earlier years did not have adequate supplies of wood suitable for wheels. They could have sourced Hickory from America, or some other appropriate wood from elsewhere in the world (such as Australia!). However the cost to ship such large quantities as they required was cost prohibitive. So English and European manufacturers spent more on developing all metal wheels much earlier. Similar appearing "spoke" wheels were a natural avenue to pursue. Hence so many wheels there similar to yours.
I am not familiar with the manufacturer of your wheel. However, I believe I have heard of them over the years that I have researched wheel history. There were several American companies that manufactured similar type steel wheels as after-market accessory or "improved" wheels. Parker Hydraulic Manufacturing made similar type wheels for model T Fords. Theirs were hydraulically pressed one side at a pressing out of steel. Then trimmed and welded together to form the whole wheel. They were expensive, but virtually unbreakable! Even in those days some people worried about wooden wheels breaking!
Please people, do not worry too much about wooden spoke wheels being unsafe! If they are in reasonably good condition, and driven normally? Wooden spoke wheels almost never break except as the result of some sort of collision! Check them occasionally to make sure something hasn't loosened up, and enjoy driving on them! If you find that something has loosened up or otherwise begun to fail? Then fix it. There are several good wheelwrights still available in the hobby!
I have never seen anything to indicate that Paige or Jewett offered such all metal wheels (I have seen some that were cast aluminum!) as a factory option. They did offer steel disc wheels on most of their models during the 1920s, and I have seen numerous era photos, ads, and even a few surviving cars with the steel disc wheels on them. I have seen a few Paige automobiles with wire wheels also.
This type of metal spoke wheels is rare on American cars of the 1920s. Rare today, and rare in era photographs! I know a few companies did manufacture such wheels as after-market accessories. And I suspect that is what these are. Personally, I like them, and consider them to be an important part of a car's history!
You might should inquire about this down in the "Graham and Paige" section of the forum. Maybe someone that frequents there might have some sales literature for your model Jewett. But do not hold your breath. As the owner of a 1927 Paige 6-45 sedan, I can tell you that "Graham and Paige" is mostly about Graham. Paige and Jewett questions often result in the sound of crickets.
IF (big IF) these wheels were offered as an option? Original sales information, brochures etc, are the most likely source of information about that. To that end, I would suggest checking with the AACA's research library, or the Horseless Carriage Foundation Inc. in La Mesa California.
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I agree on both. Between the wheels, tail lamp, and hood my first thought for the coupe was 1932 Chevrolet.
The 1929 and 1930 Chevrolet trucks had fewer louvers on the hood sides than did the 1931 and 1932 Chevy trucks, or any of the model AA Ford trucks. The truck in the photo clearly shows those distinctive fewer louvers.
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Yes, a 1925/'26 Studebaker ER (standard six, the smaller model those years), Duplex Phaeton. The Duplex Phaeton was Studebaker's version of a "California" fixed top touring car. The body style was offered for only a couple years, however I believe on all three model sizes of cars. They also offered a Duplex Roadster with a similar fixed top. The idea was a sort of halfway between the regular open style cars and the full coupes and sedans.
As most manufacturers lowered the prices of coupes and sedans, the "halfway between" cars became impractical for manufacturing and selling.
The brown car is one of the two larger models. Note the somewhat different shape and sharpness of the radiator shell on it.
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That Locomobile cabriolet may be ugly, but I like it!
Model T or A?
in What is it?
Posted
It is altered to be a farm trailer, but may have some good parts, the rear cross member has been welded on to add some sort of hauling racks. But even it might be repaired fairly easily? It appears to be the more common earlier through 1925 "short" rear cross member.
The drive shaft pinion bearing spool is the open type, used from about 1920 through 1927. The torque tube is the unusual "stepped" taper used off and on during the 1920s, and most often found on later models.
I cannot see the backing plates well enough to be sure, but they appear to be the earlier small drum style used through 1925. Cannot tell if anything about the wheels or hubs are still useful or not. Often wheel conversions for such trailers involved serious cutting and/or welding of wheels and hubs.
One photo does clearly show that the frame was punched for the "four rivet" brake ratchet/quadrant which was used from early through 1924. For 1925, that quadrant was replaced by a "two rivet" version which saved about two cents per car through 1927.
Not having holes punched for the earlier forged running board brackets might shorten the timeframe another few months on the early end? That change had a long crossover time with frame rails punched for both style brackets for a couple years, basically 1919 through 1921. Frame rails could have either style, but the holes be punched for both styles.
Can't see enough of the engine pan to see if it is likely good or not? However it appears to be the common "three dip" style used from 1917 through 1925 model year.
Basically, the chassis is likely a 1921 through 1924.