beerczar1976

Guys finally got my '50 down here to VA. Will now have time and a garage to work on it. I had pulled fuel pump in spring and had Then & Now rebuild it. Anything special about putting the pump back on? I've gone thru the Shop Manual looking for removal or install directions and couldn't find either. Does the arm need to be held up or pushed down when inserted back into the block and aligning with the cam? Any pointers would be good. I was planning on at least coating the end of the arm with some oil or grease so it might protect the cam some.

Turns out I do have an extra #0. Overall it's in good driver shape but does have a small dent in the center. See photos.

Wow those bumpers look great!! I've got the same issue on mine where the grill teeth held their chrome finish pretty well, but the bumper faces themselves as well as the front turn signal bumperettes are pretty messy. How much did it run you, if you don't mind sharing, to have the work done? I'd at least like to get my turn signal buckets cleaned back up. I'll check to see if I have an extra #0 grill tooth that looks to be in good shape and will let you know.

I recently purchased the 1950 Super and Roadmaster Written Assembly Instruction Manual as re-printed by Faxon. Though the info. was mostly useful, sadly a good 1/4 of the book is devoted to factory instructions for truck and rail shipments to the dealerships. The good point was that hardware types/sizes and torque specs., where applicable, are referenced in an easy to use listing/table. This listing is above and beyond what I've found in the Shop Manual as well as the Fisher Body Manual. What I was unhappy to find was that in a number of sections, the Manual references assembly drawings that are not in the Manual; it mentions see Drawing # xxxx for a detailed view. Of course these are in the body panel, bumper, hood/trunck, and door alignment sections! Anyone ever purchase this manual and have been able to find or cross-reference these drawings? Are these maybe the same drawings that are in the Body or Frame Parts Manuals? I've found the 48/49 Shop Manual and 49 Fisher Body Manuals to be very helpful, (as that's when they changed body styles) but again, I'm not sure that the specifically referenced drawings are in these sources either. Anyone ever get the 1950 Engineering Data Manual? I've read the description a couple times, but I think it may have been geared more for Salesman to use. I guess it's splitting hairs, and I know a bunch of folks will be saying that if the doors or hood opens without binding, who cares...But, if there were specific drawings for quality control/final out the door fitment checks at the factory, I think they'd be super helpful in our efforts to recondition our cars. I'm wondering if these drawings are available in the Buick Heritage Alliance or AACA libraries?

Just called. That's a big negative. As I understood it, the last time they made emblems (of any style) was at least 10 years ago, and the Special emblem wasn't one of them. I think what has stopped anyone from making these is, I believe, they were a one year only emblem. 51-52 uses same font script for Trunk emblems, but material is thicker and mounting pins are in a different location.

Fr. Buick, I certainly hope they do. I've checked both CARS and Bob's on and off since I first bought my car a few years back and no luck. Oddly enough, only the Super, Roadmaster, and Dynaflow emblems were offered as re-pops. I'll check their catalog now, and maybe give them a call to see if they're maybe just not listed.

Figured I'd give this a try again. Still looking for a good set, driver or better, of the "Special" emblems used on 1950 Special Deluxe models on lower front qtr. panels. I know some folks have NOS, but I can't afford over $100 a piece for them!! Realistic offers/prices only please. Thanks!!

Welcome and Good luck buddy! Will be watching for photos/build updates. Wishing I had the two-door Sedanette model myself. Mine's the Tourback Sedan. I concur with above for parts. CARS and Buick Farm have been very helpful to me. Bob's is pretty good too, but being an east coast guy I've had a little bit more luck and speedier shipping with the two aforementioned sources. Buick Farm, as of last check had a bunch of different NOS moldings still avail. They also come up on eBay as NOS pretty often too. I think I saw in your pics that yours is a Deluxe model as well due to the emblem holes in the bottom front qtr. panels above the spear mounting holes. If you don't have the "Special" emblems that go in those locations...good luck in finding some. I've been chasing those dang things for a few years now. Be wary on some that get listed as they look nearly the same, but they end up being '51 trunk script and not '50 qtr. panel scripts; material is thicker and the mounting pegs are in different locations. The replacement grill teeth come up every so often too, but I've hardly ever seen the turn-signal teeth; most that get listed are worse off than the ones I have. With that said, I've got a bunch of the manuals that pertain to the '50 models, so I'll share if you get stuck on something.

You may want to also look at your shop manual. The directions "seemed" kind of easy to follow for the '50 at least. In saying that, I've never done it myseld...In my manual they show the use of two different kinds of sealers; the formable type and what used to be applied from a caulking gun type thing. It mentions that the formable type is applied in a few specific areas around the window frame (mine is a 3-piece window) and then once the gasket/glass/trim is assembled and put into the frame as an assembly, the more liquid type of sealer is added. I know you can still get the formable kind. It's made by 3M, comes in a big log that has removable strips/strands of the stuff. My local auto guy said many refer to it as "dum-dum". The strips/strands can be twirled/formed to whatever length/shape/thickness you want. I wish I had know about it earlier because it's also supposed to be used under some of the window moldings around doors and the like to keep out rain. I think you'd be able to use the 3M black weatherstrip sealer around the rest of the gasket unless there's something more specific to window installations... I'm going to attempt to tackle my two-piece windshield over the winter. I've tried sealing the old gasket a few times but it's too old and dried out that where one spot stops leaking, the water seeps thru somewhere else.

As a reference for DIY hauling, A U-Haul Auto Transport trailer will run you just over $300 for 4 days usage. Budget also rents car trailers, but they don't do trailer rental only, you've got to rent a truck with it; combo. will set you back about $700-$800. I'll be hauling my '50 Special down to VA from MA the week after Christmas. Can't wait to get back to work on it!!

Your question piqued my interest as I have a '50 Special and would also like to put in a rear speaker someday...I found the following link to be perhaps helpful. It's out of the 1951 Chevrolet Radio Shop and Service Manual, but it's got to be pretty close in concept to the Buick. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/radios/51rs/51rs34.htm. The speaker was made by United Motors Service which was a division of GM. The first page of this Service Bulletin also details the speaker set-up a bit as well. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/radios/pdf/6D652ums.pdf. It mentions a 4-way switch and a 5"x7" speaker being used. However, now that I look at 1953mack's eBay link...The schematic on the ebay listing looks VERY much like the schematic shown in the 1955 Chevrolet Service Bulletin which uses a "fader" instead of a 4-way switch and possibly a 6"x9" speaker. In some cases of styling and accoutrements, Cadillac and Buick were typically a few years ahead of what was offered in the Chevys.

Thanks for the follow-up guys. I tried emailing, and I think, calling, the POC just before departing Mass. No response. So as my3buicks notes, it's probably a no-go. Still working on getting my '50 shipped down here anyway. Avg. shipment quote is around $500. Highest I've gotten was about $1k, but that was from one of the "big name" hauling companies that specializes in high-end stuff. I'm going to also check in with my neighbor who has a family member that runs a hauling service to see if he goes up to the northeast at all; maybe he can give me a good price, and at least it'll be someone I'm acquianted with. Other option may be to rent a trailer and borrowing my dads p/u. Checked with UHaul, but they seemed to calculate the '50 wouldn't fit on their dual axle trailer (about $200 to rent). Budget had bigger trailers but would only rent them with at least a 10' box truck; price was around $700-$800 for the combo.

Recently just moved down to Chesapeake, VA from Massachusetts due to a Coast Guard assignment. Are there any BCA Chapters in the area? I had found one contact in the Chapter listing before, but didn't get a reply, and a web search isn't really coming up with anything locally active. Thanks!

I think I got my replacement door glass bottom rubber from either CARS or Rubber the Right Way. I think they sell it by the foot or in big sections and you just cut it to the proper length for your door glass. It's U shaped for the glass to sit into and has a \ shaped flap piece that goes towards the outside of the door skin.

I too just tested my Sending Unit for my '50 Special as I was in the process of cleaning the tank and installing a new fuel line. My float was totally eaten away, but found an identical one off eBay. I at first tried using an ohms meter on the Sender (tested out of the tank and disconnected from the fuel line and fuel gauge wire) and was also getting some wacky readings. As you said, out of the 0-30 range AND not much of a difference when checking from Empty to Full. However, I did a test as highlighted in the Shop Manual. I took the Sending Unit up to the front of the car. Removed the cowl access hole and attached a lead from the post on the sending unit to the left post on the back of the Fuel Gauge. Next connect a lead from the mounting flange of the sender to a good ground on the car; I attached it to one of the dash brackets. With leads that are a good 5'-6' you can then hold the Sending Unit inside the car with you. Turn the Ignition to on, and try moving the float arm up and down. On a '50, the needle on the Gas Gauge doesn't have all that much of a sweep, (I at first thought it was doing anything until I looked closer) as compared to the float arm swing distance. I lucked out that when mine touched the stop at the top (Full), my gauge read Full. When at the stop at the bottom, it was reading Empty. A similar test can be done to check the front to rear wiring for the Gauge/Sender (IF it is already known that your Sender is working using the above test); steps below. 1. With Ignition OFF disconnect Sending Unit wire. Connect a lead from the post on the Sender (out of the tank) to the wire that exits out bottom of trunk.. Attach a lead to the flange of the Sender to a good ground on the car. 2. Turn ignition ON, then move Sender arm up and down to the Full and Empty stops. If wiring is okay, dash unit will move freely from Full to Empty. 3. If, on the test, the dash unit reads Empty at all times or the reading is noticeably lower than from when testing the Sender directly connected to the Gauge, look for a ground in the wiring between the Gauge and the end of the wiring. If the Gauge reads Full at all times or is reading higher than Empty or Full when at either stop, look for points of high resistance such as dirty connections, broken wire strands, or open circuits. I know this is more of a manual process than just getting a simple ohms reading, but intuitively it should work (I'm not sure how "accurate" these gauges were to begin with as again on a '50 the Gauge needle sweep is only like 1/2" Empty to Full). My next test will probably be doing the one I just highlighted in steps 1-3 above just to make sure that the Gauge reads Full or Empty when it's supposed to with the Sender still out of the tank, but attached to the wiring leading from the trunk. I would hate to do this whole project, get everything buttoned up and come to find out I've got an issue with Sender to Gauge wiring. Good luck.

Good to know. I'm planning on giving myself the good part of a day to do the cleaning. Did you do anything to block of the filler neck other than just taping the opening closed? I'm guessing it's okay if the cleaner and sealer goes up inside it. My tank sounds like its got a lot of loose rust in it. Can't really see it in there though. I believe there's a baffle in there some where that could be holding it. May try to shop vac it out if I can.

I've finally been able to take some pics. of my car. I've got a 1950 Special Deluxe Tourback Sedan w/Dynaflow. Approx. 98k miles, if memory serves...Based on frame info., I believe it was built in Flint. It's a latter '50 model based on the dash set-up. Original color was Geneva Green; it's currently wearing Nason Deep Red Pearl paint. It's still being put back together from prior owner's teardown. I picked it up about 2 summer's ago now and have been chipping away at the basket case ever since. Still to come will be a fresh windshield gasket, finish installing the door gaskets, cleaning of the gas tank, a new fuel line, and remounting the freshly rebuilt fuel pump (Then and Now, Weymouth, MA). I had Scott's Speedometer rebuild the Speedo/Odo. It now works. Was stuck due to a broken speedo cable. The snapped cable looked like an octopus when I finally freed it from inside the metal housing; not sure if the broken cable caused the head to seize after non functioning, or the stuck speedo. head snapped the cable. I'm still working on re-mounting the side trim, need some clips. I've got a lot of other parts to re-install as well. The behind the bumper filler panels, rear Dynaflow emblems, still missing a Special emblem for front quarter, glove box and glove box door, rear seat, headliner, and will be refreshing the door panels. I've got the air cleaner. Took it off after she dropped dead on side of road last fall due to clogged fuel system (hence the prior mentioned fuel line fixes). I've got the other grille teeth, one's got a bent mounting bracket. Just bought a new dash to engine wire harness. Can't wait to see how she runs after fresh fuel lines and new wiring!!

Guys. Finally got around to dropping my fuel tank for cleaning. I'll be using the POR-15 kit. WIll also be replacing the original fuel line with a new one I ordered from Inline Tube. Yes, it most likely will not be going back in one piece. Wish it could have, but there's no way I'm lifting body off frame to put it on like they did at the factory. It'd take some serious snaking to even try to get it up and over the frame and between the body. Not going to happen. Oh well. Unfortunately snapped off a couple of the mounting clips. Will do my best to find something that matches. While doing an inspection of my tank, I found my fuel sender to look like the picture. Anybody have luck with cleaning one back up? I THINK it still works. The arm moves pretty freely, but needs to be pushed back and forth, doesn't just swing. Obviously will need a new float. Also found the large spring shaped thing rolling around in the tank too. I believe its one of those anti-siphoning do-hookies that's supposed to be inside the filler neck...

I was able to pull door access cover panels from an ebay seller. For whatever reason, my car as purchased from PO, didn't have them. What is the correct thickness of the rubber bumpers that attach to the top side of the triangular bracket? CARS sells at least two different thicknesses. As I understand, the windows when lowered are supposed to rest on top of these brackets/stops. The rear door covers are the only ones with these brackets. This must stop the window from going all the way down; I know many modern 4-door cars do not allow the rear windows to go down all the way leaving an inch or two of glass sticking up above the door frame when fully down. The front covers are just that, they cover over the access hole. I'll try to dig back thru all the various manuals that I have to see if they call out the right thickness.

Eric, thanks. I'll do my best. I'm guessing the one piece approach probably won't work, but I'm going to try. From what I remember seeing on the car, vs. what the tubing looks like coming out of the box, some of the bends didn't look right. We'll see. I'm wondering if anyone has ever suggested to the tubing vendors that they should maybe sell a one-piece version for body-off projects, and a multi-piece version for those that are leaving the body on...

Well...I just took the 20 min. ride to storage. I can see why some folks have resorted to cutting the line. I can see where Buick5563 mentions using a lift as this will allow you to push/pull/turn as necessary. I don't have a lift, but will try to at least get all 4 corners up on jack stands as high as possible. This MAY give me just enough room. The line doesn't really get sandwiched between the body and frame anywhere, but it does have to clear 4 body mount perches (mid-body); 3 towards the front, a gap, and then 1 towards the rear. I may try to use the gap area to my advantage by passing the rear section and as much as possible of the front section of the line over the rear perch and then pushing the front section forward back towards the front of the car. Leaving the line nearly bent in-half as it comes out of the box, may actually prove to help in the install; though they do instruct that the line be straightened before install. There does also appear to be one tricky section which is where the line runs thru the front frame member at almost a 90 degree turn... I suppose I won't know for sure until I try but will be busy for the next couple weekends. I'll keep you guys posted if I managed to do it! Keeping my fingers crossed.

Mine's certainly a driver too. My car is over at it's winter storage garage. Funny thing is, the line from Inline comes shipped almost folded in half in a box that stood over 6' tall, so it shows that there's plenty of flex to the line. Will have to get over there and crawl under to see what's what. Maybe I'll luck out and not find that the line isn't sandwiched between the body and frame, but just runs along it/through it.

Hey everyone. Got my fuel pump re-built by Then & Now in Weymouth, MA. Insanely fast and excellent service. Came back with a bag of goodies (all the crap that they pulled out of the original) to show that they just didn't due a cursory cleaning and re-paint. Anyway, next steps will be to drop and clean my tank (may replace the fuel sender at the same time) as well as to install a new pre-bent fuel line from Inline Tube. Now here's my question, I've noticed on a few prior posts that it seems many folks have had to cut their new one piece line into a couple smaller pieces to get it back on the frame when the body is in place. Please tell me there's an easier way... The pre-bent one-piece line was pretty cheap, I think the shipping charge was almost as much as the line, but I'm hoping that I don't now have to hack up a brand new line to get it in place. A few others noted to try to raise the body off the frame just enough to squeeze the line thru...Can I just loosen the body mount bolts near the tight spots, or am I looking at loosening every single mount on both sides of the car? I'm hoping that buying a new fuel line didn't turn out to be a project that I can't really handle. Thoughts?

Eric, why did you have to cut the new line? I just bought a line from Inline Tube myself, but haven't had a chance to get under car to pull the old one out. This was not something I had hoped to hear...

I had similar issue with my "jumper hose" disintegrating too. I was lucky enough to finally find brass fittings at a real old-school hardware store that matched thread size. As a note...Many of the auto-parts stores can no longer get the size that was OE because, "due to low demand, that sizing has been discontinued". I too just bought a new fuel line from Inline Tube. Big project will be dropping and cleaning tank! Not looking forward to that. Hoping my Sending Unit is still in halfway decent shape; they're not cheap.