beerczar1976

I'm going to just go for a good "eyeball" alignment too. Now how about that fender to door gasket visibility? I'm thinking if I can get my hood lined up a little better, it won't be as visible. From the shoulder of the fender down it's hidden, but it's right "out there" because of the hood to door gap.

Spent some time trying to line things up this weekend on my '50 Special. Two items. Front fenders are looking pretty good though, to my eye, the gap between rear end of fender and front edge of door looks a little wide, but figuring for clearance of side chrome, not re-installed yet, it could be fine. However, when hood is put on, the gap between rear end of hood and top front edge of door looks WAY wide. I believe the gap is supposed to be something only like 1/8". To get that, I think I'd have to move the hood hinges back. But, doing this would move front edge of hood back from current front edge of fenders... I'm at a little bit of a loss. I know my hood does currently sit a bit diagonally to the tops of fenders; gap on one front corner is a bit wide and gap at opposite rear corner is also wide. Can also be hard to close and lock sometimes, I'm thinking due to the alignment. Front ends of fenders should be good width wise as mustache bar kind of dictates where the fender bolts that go to it, have to go. Also, is the "bellows type" door gasket, the big flat long fender height gasket that's supposed to stop air and water from getting in between fender/cowl/and door, supposed to be visible at the top in the gap between the hood and the front edge of door? It's canvas like material so it can be trimmed, but there's a little retainer at top end with 2 screws thru it. If you cut it too short, it won't be held in place correctly. Someone have some close-up reference pics.? I've looked on line, but every shot is from front 1/4 at an angle or too far out to see the spacing and if gasket is visible well.

Guys, dumb question, but this is the first time I've done this project, so please bare with me. I recently had my speedo. head re-built, found out old one was pretty much jammed up from no use for who knows how long. I also replaced the cable as old one had broken and become a twirled up mess inside the cable jacket. It's been cut to proper length per the shop manual. Yesterday, I used some white lithium grease on the cable, ran it down the housing jacket and re-attached at bottom end to tranny. and to top end at speedo. Everything engaged fine, however on first trial, I had a lot of ticking and some needle jump. Sounded like an old typewriter. Well, pulled the cable, applied more grease; second run, almost no ticking, initially, and less needle jump. Shortly after, ticking came back, and again had some needle jump. Before I contact the re-builder, and sound like an idiot to him too, exactly how much grease should I use? I also remember reading not to lube like the top 1/3 of the cable, which I didn't...does that only apply when using the OE graphite/grease lube? The article mentioned if using too much of the graphite lube, it works back into the speedo. head and makes a mess. Not looking forward to burying my hands back into 60 year old insulation, but I'll pull the speedo again if need be. I found it's easier to pull the cable with the gauge dropped down out of the way and able to pull the cable straight out the hole in the dash. Thanks!

Jaybird, thanks. I've been down the road of pulling the switch apart. Not too bad, just need lots of patience and a way of holding the springs in place from "blowing up" on you. I tried to remount my original rheostat coil using the new rivet option. Snapped right off again as soon as juice hit it. I recently found another switch on eBay, though unfortunately, it's not as "pretty" as mine was. Pretty rusty and discolored even after cleaning with a wire wheel on the Dremel and PB Blaster. I also had to drill out a couple of the terminal screws as they had rusted themselves permanently in place. Current plan, is to mount this "new" switch in place and see if it works. If it doesn't due too much screw terminal corrosion or hidden internal damage inside the "box end" of the switch, I'll be yanking out the porcelain/rheostat component from the cruddy switch and mounting into the frame of my nicer, semi-functioning switch, and see I get all functionality back. Here's to hoping!

They're probably not hard at all to duplicate, like Buick Man said, as it's a simple set-up; a reflective housing, a light bulb socket, one or two screws, and the appropriate lead(s) that can be fed down inside the steering column to the light switch. I don't think, if memory serves, that it even gets connected to the fuse panel. I bet the two wiring places over here in RI have the exact bulb sockets and wires/terminal connectors in stock, it'd be just the housing that needs to be formed. In short Buick Man, what are your thoughts on going forward with re-popping these lights? Is it financially viable? Seems like there is some demand out there... I'm waiting for mine to show up in the mail. Should be soon. What would you need? Better photos and maybe some measured line drawings? I'd be willing to try to do that. Is there a limitation by GM on reproducing certified accessories. I think I read on another forum, someone kind of got the slap down by Ford for reproducing a no longer produced accessory or part of theirs a while back, but it might have been because it had the Ford symbol or logo on it.

I think since I'm getting a little varied response on value, I may end up keeping it... Robert, If the article hasn't gone to press yet, I'll try to send you some pics of the item. If you haven't already finished writing article, would it make any sense for me to help by adding to the article with some pics of the installation process? I know we live too far apart for your to come and do the article or pics, but I'd be willing to help. As for Sean's note...yup, I was that lucky guy! Ended up finding it by searching using "vintage, Buick" or "vintage, GM"...

Henrick, I've got a '50 Special, the baby brother to the Super. Some parts carryover from the Special to the Super, but definitely more cross between the Super and Roadmaster. Yes, you have the 263 engine. Get an original or repro. shop manual. Many vendors and can even be purchased on CD-Rom. The Oil Filter is seen in your picture located up to the front right of the engine near the radiator. Changing the oil on these cars is actually pretty easy because the oil filter canister may have a drain plug at the bottom that allows you to remove (most) of the oil from the canister before putting in a fresh filter. This will depend on the particular unit on your car. I've also seen what looks like the same canister housing but without the drain plug at the bottom, if so, the remaining oil (after taking out the filter) can be removed by using a plastic bulb-type baster available at a home/cooking store. The top of the canister has a bolt on it that loosens the lid. There should be a gasket between the lid and the canister body. The oil from the entire engine is drained via the drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan. Fuel Filter...what you have will work fine, however, if you want to change over to "original style", the filter will have a glass bowl and a ceramic/stone filter element. I've got one on mine, very easy to clean. The glass bowl usually threads into the metal body like a jar and is then held in place with a metal loop that swings down underneath the glass. There are a few general styles. Come up on eBay quite often. Carter made a lot of them. This link shows three different styles... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-3-Misc-Carter-Fuel-Filter-Glass-Assemblies-/161348986597?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25912626e5&vxp=mtr Air Cleaner...those come up on eBay pretty often. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-53-Buick-Air-Cleaner-/400626187070?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d472e7b3e&vxp=mtr That link is for representation purposes...I've seen them WAY cheaper than that. They're the oil bath type meaning that the "bowl" is filled with 50w oil. There will be a big metal ring shaped element that sits inside sandwiched between the top half and the bottom removable bowl. The element, at least on mine, is filled with metal strip/filings. Both the element and bowl can be emptied and cleaned routinely. The other big part that looks like a muffler is called the "Silencer" which I guess quiets the sound of the air as it flows into the carb. The small end of the cleaner clamps to the top of the carb., the big center muffler section clamps to the top of the valve cover with a large band clamp onto the support that is visible in your pic. Spark Plug Cover. This link shows what it's supposed to look like. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1953-Buick-Super-Special-Spark-Plug-Cover-with-Original-Nuts-/371102269467?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1950%7CMake%3ABuick&hash=item56676b401b&vxp=mtr I still want to put some fresh Tranny fluid in mine, but yes, I believe the Dexron type is the current available ATF out there that works with the Dynaflow. I agree with the others on your slipping from Park issue. The Shop Manual covers adjustment and/or repairs that may be required. The Dynaflow repair manual, a separate book from the Shop Manual, also covers adjustments/repairs a little more extensively. Let me know if you've got any other questions. I'm in the process of putting mine back together. Prior owner tore car down, repainted, and then gave-up putting it back together. A lot of my knowledge has been gained from reading posts on this forum, scouring the internet for reference pictures, and of course putting down some cash for the books. I don't mind scanning parts of the manuals. Some have done it for me, and I've repaid the favor.

The DynaLite is a column mounted accessory shift position light for vehicles that didn't come with factory lit shift indicators.

Guys. Just picked up a still in the box, with instructions, DynaLite. Will most likely be installing on my ride, but do remember that there were some folks looking for one in the past, cash is king after all...

Hey Robert! Thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for. Seems like the only thing I'm missing then is the referenced 6v fuse holder. I'll see what I can come up with locally. Based on the drawings, I have all of the other parts. I'm wondering if I can reach out to the eBay seller and see if he's still got the fuse holder dangling from his dash. He's listed a bunch of Buick stuff lately. If anyone needs the actual ebrake assembly, I've got the one that came with this switch assembly and I don't plan on using it. Yes, that headlight switch, of course, is a specific unit to the '50 thru '52 cars...Buick only for that matter! I got a pretty crusty replacement one off eBay recently. I'm in the process of cleaning that one up after my overzealous cleaning managed to ruin the rheostat coil on my original one. If the replacement doesn't work, due to condition of screw terminals, I'm going to make one last attempt of repairing mine by removing the entire ceramic rheostat component from the frame of the replacement and putting it into my switch (condition is WAY better). The only reason mine can't be repaired is once that coil is broken, there's pretty much no way to re-attach it. I tried putting a new loop in the end and attaching it back to the ceramic with a new rivet, but as soon as voltage hit it, the coil burnt right off the rivet again.

Good deal. I'll check my wiring diagram. As it was an option, not sure if shows up on there. I may try to see if someone has a more updated wiring diagram as I don't think this option was really introduced until a couple years later. Eckler's/Classic Chevy.com lists a modern interpretation of it, and as you said, they suggest wiring it to something only live with the ignition. I'll take a look at my fuse panel, as I think it does have couple empty spots for accessories, or worse comes to worse, splice it someplace after the ignition. One weird thing we recently figured out is that the my car will not start (won't even attempt to crank or give power to the instruments-fuel gauge, oil pressure, etc.) without the Ignition Wire that runs to the headlight switch in place.

Guys. Bought a used original emergency brake light set-up off of eBay recently. This is one of the red jewel under dash mounted units that has a plunger switch that comes in contact with the ebrake ratchet. When engaged, the light comes on as a reminder that the brake is on...Now big question is, what's the best way to connect it to the fuse panel on a '50 Buick? I have the bracket and original plunger switch as well. I think I might have seen an NOS one listed at some point that still had the directions, I'll see if I can find it and try to read the directions off the photo in the listing, but if anyone has one of these units on their car, let me know how you've wired it. The mounting bracket, should match-up, or come pretty close to the holes that are already in place under the front edge of the dash panel. Thanks,

Robert. I saw that one on eBay. For $20, price is great, but condition is pretty questionable. Might be just a ton of rust on the screw terminals. Worry would be if the rheostat coil was just as badly corroded as the terminals. I think when I did the cleaning, that's how mine got loosened up. Might be worth grabbing though. Curious if I could pull just the rheostat coil/porcelain section out of the eBay one and put into my frame. I saw on a Ford Truck forum last night that Ford actually carried the rheostat/porcelain section as a replacement part. Another thing I'm going to try on mine is to either drill out old rivet, put a loop in the end of the broken coil and insert a new rivet. Other option may be to again, create loop in end of coil and put a small brass screw thru loop and run the screw down into the old terminal; will grind head of screw as flush as possible so flipper doesn't get caught up on it. I'll let you guys know what I do and if I have any success.

Need some guidance. I was having issues with the dash lights on my '50 Special, external lights were working fine. Found out that the map and dash lights were on the wrong terminals. Corrected wire placement. Still no go. Removed switch and cleaned the little "rivet" terminals for the turn functions as well as the screw-in terminals for the wire placement. Re-installed switch and wires. All external lights still work, interior lights don't work in any of the turned positions at all and saw a puff of smoke from behind dash. Removed the switch and saw that the spring rheostat had either snapped when turning the switch, or overloaded and broke. Long story short...Does anyone know of someone that repairs these switches? Are they repairable? Shop Manual says no. The switch was used on late production '50-52 only. Early '50 had a separate Map Light Switch from Headlight/Interior Lights. I saw a near identical '53 switch on eBay, but it was 12 volt. I don't know if the 12v switch would work. Direct replacements are pretty much none existent, or at least from I've found so far. YNZ has one, but it, like the others I've seen, doesn't have the separate terminal for the Map Lights. Switch should have 3 terminals up backside, 3 across bottom, and 2 towards the front of the switch on top. Are any of you guys holding an extra they're willing to part with? HELP!!

I agree with above posts. Another quick check is to verify that the dash wiring is hooked to the correct terminals on the switch as well. Currently working thru dash lighting on my '50 Special and found that Map Lights and Dash/Accessory Lights were on wrong terminals thus dimming/not dimming when they weren't supposed to, or, not going on/off when supposed to based on switch position. Wires may have been moved years ago, when above rheostat corrosion/"crud build-up" became a problem. I used some CRC electrical switch cleaner on the terminals and rheostat. Seems to move a little more freely and the lights turn on/off/dim a little more crisply than before.

Now that's a new one I don't believe I had found before. May definitely see how much a small batch of ready to use Nason Deep Red will run me. I've got left-over can from the body painting job, but I don't know if (1) it's still any good, and (2) if it was prepped for air gun. Got quite a few chips to touch-up here and there.

Thanks Tom. I think I remember finding supplier before but I don't have spray equipment. I might try to re-contact them and see if they can do spray cans. Probably super expensive though...

Hey guys. Was away for a week of Coast Guard Reserve duty. Last night while I was cleaning up our old Coleman 2-burner stove, I happened to notice that it looks pretty close in color to my stock wheels and vent window rain guards. I haven't done a thorough side-by-side yet, but first glance put's them pretty close. My wife also thought the same thing. I just checked a Coleman resto. forum and it turns out Krylon sells a Hunter Green in spray can that those guys are all using; Rustoleum also has it in 3 slightly different shades of HG also. Any thoughts on how well these might match or if it's close enough? I checked with the local parts guy who can mix custom paint, but quoted me a pretty high price for enough paint to do all 5 wheels. My current rims and rain guards seem to be original paint, but are pretty worn and oxidized. The car itself had been re-painted another color by last owner, so I don't have much to go by except on-line paint chips, which even then, based on monitor or printer quality/settings will look different anyway. Yes, I know that rain guards and wheels should match body color, but I thought the original Geneva Green would look pretty good with the current Dark Red Pearl color of the body, and also show as a styling hint of original factory color. Thanks!

Pete. Thanks for taking the time and doing those photos. Mine pretty much looks like same set-up as yours. I think only thing different is the use of the lock washers like in photo #3 on the fender top sides. I do remember seeing that CARS has the bolts, washers and lock washers. I'll be putting an order together soon, just need to count up how many cage nuts I'm missing. When removing the fenders to put the bellows weatherstrips back in, I did catch a couple places where it looked like a few were missing here and there. I know the front lower side of one of my fenders is missing one for sure where the fender and the radiator skirt bolt together. I want to just measure first, as I'm not sure they're all the same size/style though.

Hey guys, I think I struck out on the Speedo. I plugged the snapped off section of cable back into the back of the Speedo. and tried to twirl/spin by hand. Seemed like it didn't want to budge, and definitely no needle movement. Next step will be to pull Speedo from dash and see if it'll work from a better angle or to see if I can see what's got it stuck. May have to send it out for a repair. I know Shadetree had posted some home DIY work on his Speedo. a while back and will follow what he did.

I was lucky enough to have all of my glass except front passenger window. Buick Farm had a NOS glass still in the factory original box.

Yes, nowadays we refer to them as fender wells. In the Shop and Parts Manuals they're referred to as Fender Skirts. I think the front one surrounding the radiator and behind the grille is called the Radiator Skirt. So, if someone's got some pics on how they're front fenders are bolted on, and what size, bolts, washers, etc., that they've used it would help. I did just find that the '48-'49 Shop Manual is actually more of a help than the '50 Manual. A lot of line drawings and some photos were left out in the '50 book. Instead of just describing the spacing that's supposed to be between hood and cowl/fenders and doors, it actually had a picture/drawing! It also listed the correct bolt thread-size, but not length; or if it's supposed to be just a flat washer that goes under the bolt, or if there's other washers/spacers involved. Thanks!

OUCH!! Noted. Shop Manual does state twist with fingertips. I tried it once, but that was before I pulled the cable out of the housing. Will give it another try with fingers first, and then try at a very slow speed with drill. I was wondering if turning it the wrong way too fast would be an issue...

Guys. Looking for some help and/or pics on re-mounting front fenders on a 1950 model year (others are probably near the same set-up). I installed new front body hinge sealing strips (bellows type weatherstrips) over the weekend and in order to do so, needed to remove front fenders. Prior owner hadn't mounted the fenders fully before selling, and I'd like to put them back on, as close to correct as possible. The Shop Manual is a little confusing as it mentions mounting the fender skirts and fenders pretty much in the same section. It gives a detailed drawing of the stacking of spacers, washers, etc. for the skirt mounting, but doesn't give clear direction on the fenders. Are the fenders held on in the following order? Bolt, washer, fender, fender skirt, washer, and nut? After that, the horrible task of fender/door/hood spacing begins. Blekk! I could never be a full-time body man! LOL Thanks.

I wish I had a camera to post a pic., but I figured out why my Speedo. doesn't work. I suppose when the cable is snapped off about a foot or so into the housing and the section of cable below the break has turned into a twirled octopus, it isn't going to be spinning!! LOL My wife and I had to cut individual strands of cable off and un-wind them. After quite a bit of tugging, swearing, and hoping I could free the jam from the housing, we cleared the mess. I was thinking of just ordering a new complete cable, but the grommet where the cable housing goes thru the cowl access panel didn't really present an easy way to get it out. I'm ordering a cable repair kit. The housing seems to be good. Cleaned off about an 1/8" thickness of grease, grime, and what have you off of the outside of near the entire length of the tube. As others have suggested, I'm going to also take the top end of the busted cable and plug it back into the backside of the Speedo head and give a spin with a drill. I'll be able to rule out any issues in the head that would have caused the cable to snap in the first place. I'm hoping it was just age, but the non-broken sections of the cable seemed to be in still good condition.