beerczar1976

My opinion would be to just remove the chrome fuel door guard. It kind of breaks up the striping. Otherwise looks good.

Looking for the chrome escutcheon used on '50 Specials with the 3-piece rear window. The escutcheon covers up where the bottom left and right chrome trim meets in the center of the window. Should look pretty similar/concept wise to the escutcheon used at the bottom center of the windshield. Doesn't need to be perfect, but not total junk either. Of all the parts to need to find?! Thanks!

Thanks guys...Marvelous! I just love buying parts to get shipped the wrong ones and need to re-order them again :| Anybody need 4 oval head shaped bumper bolts?

I've ordered bumper bolts from the same vendor twice. Ordered 4 the first time, then realized I needed another 2. However, second order came with bolts under the same stock# but with round heads and square backs coming off the threads. The first 4 were almost oval shaped with rectangular backs coming off the threads... I found pics online of 50 bumpers, and it looks like most cars have the round bolt heads, but the bolt heads drawn in the Parts Manual diagram, look to be oval like I received the first time. Which shape are they supposed to be?!

Has anyone with a '50 Tourback used Kanter's Door Perimeter Weatherstrip Kit# 10280A, (currently $465.00)? I asked them to send me a component listing to make sure their kit covers everything. It'd be cheaper than "piece-mailing a set"...Might be cheaper than Steele Rubber's stuff too.

I was just re-reviewing what Steele Rubber is offering for their '50 Super door "kit", and the listing of parts (for the front door at least) that come in the kit, are the exact ones that they have listed out separately for the '50 Special...Thoughts?

I'm looking for a vendor that sells, preferably as a kit, the door weatherstrips for a '50 Special Tourback Sedan. I've seen that a couple vendors are offering kits or full sets for the Super and Roadmaster but not the Special. I'm guessing neither of these would work 100% as I know those models were larger, and I'm thinking the doors may have been too... But, if someone knows that a Super's weatherstrips are the same, I'm in business. Otherwise, I think I have to order the weatherstripping piece by piece or get generic, cut to fit stock. Has anyone on here with a Special, done a full weatherstripping job? My windows and vents are done!

Sounds good. That will be an easy enough option to try. If I remember correctly the leads for the front bumper mounted turn signals just just screw on to the same 4 screw mount where the horn/headlight leads go.

One issue that came up when I re-installed my tailights (this is the first time they're in place with me as the car owner at least) is that when I put my turn signals on, the tailights signal properly but the lights (indicator arrows) in the dash do not flash with the tailights. Let me clarify that a bit, when I INITIALLY switch on the turn signal, left or right, the in-dash indicator will flash once, and then stop. The tailights themselves continue to operate as they are supposed to. What might be causing this? Just throwing these out there as two possible idea...(1) I do not have my front bumper turn signals re-installed at this point. Bumper guards are a little too beat up. (2) I do have a confirmed issue with my in-dash light switch that operates all the lights...might be the rheostat. I do know that the switch does have control over all dash lights; wondering if the switch is faulty, maybe it's over-riding the indicator arrows... Thanks! Was it Alan Kriss of PA that someone noted as doing light switch repairs?

Phil, I was kind of thinking that myself...as long as the bolts are long enough, than what's the difference. My bolts look like hardened steel I guess. They have 3 -- marks on the head. Head I think remember is 3/4". I'll swap the lock washers with the flat washers as I think I put them in the opposite order on the front end. Oh...also, did you put the bolts thru the frame from the inside? I think the nuts go on the outside. From center of car...Bolt head, lock washer, frame, bracket, flat washer, nut.

I was putting my bumper backing bars (brackets) back on my '50 Special the other day and realized that they're not all the same length, I'm also short some bolts (again, I'm now like the 3rd owner of the car, and I'm doing the re-assembly). I scoured the Parts manual last night for proper length/application, but it didn't even list all of them...Looked in Parts Group 7 and 8. Front bumper bracket set-up is 5 pieces (Left outer "bent L", left support "flattened S", center "Large U", right support "flattened S", right outer "bent L") and requires 6 bolts in total, 3 per side for attaching to the frame horns under radiator/engine. The rear 2 bolts go thru frame and hold center bracket and the outer brackets. Front bolt goes thru frame and holds center bracket and the small support brackets. Rear bumper bracket set-up is 3 pieces. Main center bracket (across the width of the car) is held on by 2 bolts to the rear frame cross member under trunk. Outer brackets are held to the frame by 2 bolts and 1 bolt which attaches them to the main center bracket. Each bolt set-up is a hex-bolt with a flat washer, a lock washer, and a nut. Anyone know the correct length for each location? I may end up replacing with new as a few are eaten up by rust and I'm missing a few. Also, should it go, bolt head, flat washer, then lock washer and nut, or bolt head, lock washer, then flat washer and nut? Pics are good, but # of each length required would be fine. Parts book doesn't show the bolts in the diagrams just the major bumper components.

Bob's is back in stock. Ordered them yesterday as part of a return for mis-shipped part in prior order. He's using L-6006 as his part# so I'm wondering if they're the same as what Patrick's got? Anways, I'm good for, now, but I'll keep you in mind if I end up blowing one of these. One of my old bulbs blew, I'm thinking it was just an old bulb and hopefully not a wiring issue.

Hey guys. Looking for sealed beam 6-volt headlamps? Bob's was out of stock with last order, I think, of course, they're back in-stock now. Anybody able to find them cheap somewhere? Worst comes to worst, I can order thru them again, but would want to order a bunch of stuff at once to save on shipping.

Tank, thanks for the help. I'll have to, as you said, bolt up the lights, or try to jump them to the body/frame. As for switch, shop manual does detail the replacement of switch, Page 10-71. Looks like I'll be maybe doing another contortionist act to get to those wires. Of course it refers to the ever popular Buick specific wrenches. Does anyone know where I can find a Wrench J 1589? I'll do an eBay and web check, but I know even trying to find the one used for taking the wiper arm knurls off is pretty hard to find. Just in case, does anyone also know where I might source a replacement switch. I think I've seen some listed thru the parts houses, but they usually have a disclaimer that they don't do all the functions as original or something along those lines.

I'm sure this is a super DUMB question. Do the taillight assemblies need to be mounted into the rear quarters to be working, or can i just plug in the wiring when the taillight bucket is not touching the car for them to work? The more I think about it, I'm thinking they have to be touching in order for them to have a ground. My headlights do work however without touching the body and just hooked up to the harness. I'm trying to figure out if 1) my taillight bulbs are still good, and probably more importantly, 2) if my old taillight harness is still good. Bulb filaments are not broken, nor are the bulbs blackened. Harness (portion outside of the car) may be a little iffy, but since the proper rubber harness tubes are $100+ a set, without even adding the wiring that goes in them, also another $100+, I'd prefer not to be replacing these unless 100% necessary. The taillight assemblies themselves are actually in very good condition. No rust or corrosion. Hoping I'm just being a little un-educated and missing the step of bolting the buckets back into the quarters will make the difference. Lastly, the multi-way light switch that's in the dash near the radio. What's the best way to remove this to service or to at least try to clean up? When I pull it out, the headlights turn on as they are supposed to, but the maplights don't seem to be shutting off. I'm thinking it's probably just dirty/cruddy contacts inside of the switch. I don't seem to be getting any instrument lighting either. These switches seem to be a little complicated as they have 2 levels of "pull-out" and also have the ability to turn to brighten or darken the interior lighting. Hopefully the whole radio assembly doesn't have to come out! Pulling my brother's '52 Chevy radio was a nightmare! I'll double-check shop manual too, but some items aren't covered all that well in there. Thanks.

I recently ordered new door handle gaskets to put my outer door handles back on. They are quite a bit thicker, like 3-4x, than the old ones I found kicking around in my boxes of old dis-assembled parts. I don't think the old would have "squished" down that much over the years. Do you think that the vendor may have used the wrong gasket stock? I can't quite get the inner retainer spring (long rectangular steel with slots cut in it) to slide back in and grab the tangs on the ends of the door handle that go inside the door. I've tried hammering the spring lightly with a hammer and block of wood, but it barely budges. Should I maybe try putting a little bit of grease or something on the tangs to get the retainer spring to slide easier, or are the gaskets just too thick? Could I maybe run them across a belt sander to take a few mils off?

Anybody know the outer diameter measurement for '50 Special headlight rings or "doors" as they are called? Went to place an order yesterday and vendor lists rings with 8-7/8" and 9-1/16" outer diameters. These wouldn't have varied by factory, right?

I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a window gasket for my Special Tourback. It's got the 3-piece window. This will be a new "re-install". I wasn't the one who took the windows out. Does anyone know how many clips hold the outside mouldings back on? I know the center dividers are held on by long screws that go thru the gasket and the center "post" pieces. I think the bottom has 7 or 8 clips. Does the top have clips too? If so, how many are required. I'll check my parts book too. A glass shop will be doing the actual install. Just told me to make sure I had all clips as he wouldn't have access to any. Thanks!

Ben, Thanks for the pic. I took another look at my parts over the weekend. I've got the 2 corners, one's on its way from Buick Farm, and 2 centers. One's got the slots that hold the rubber arrowheads and second, shaped differently but just with bolt holes. I'll use your pic and the ones from Dan to build-up the deflector area. I think I should have everything now that goes back there. Will order 8 of the rubber arrows as that's how many slots I have as well.

Ben, are you saying there might be additional pieces then that build up the rear end? Right now, I've got the bumper and the 3 Gravel Deflectors. Left my parts diagrams at home today, but I don't recall seeing anything else that was supposed to go back there. I see you've got a 41D as well, same as me. Do you have a pic. of your back bumper set-up? My assumption was that bumper bolted to brackets and the gravel deflectors bolted direct to body and filled in the space between the body and the backside of the bumper.

Dan, You're right. I was using that as an example. I've got a opposite shaped left piece as well. However your question on the center piece is a good one. I'll have to take a look at my center piece when I get home from work today...Maybe that has slots in it to accept the rubber pieces. I'm now just getting to the point of putting the bumpers back on and hadn't really looked too closely at the rear and front centers yet. I was missing the Right Rear and Front Left until just the other day when I ordered replacements from Buick Farm.

Hmmmm... a '50 rear end looks nothin' like that! I may have to hunt down a pic from somebody with a '50 or later. Catalogs list them, but maybe they get used in a different way/location on the later gravel deflectors. Now that I'm looking at your pics., it looks like those rubber pieces go into the deflector, like in a slot or something. All deflectors I have just have the bent over tabs with the built in/clipped on speed nuts that match up to the holes in the body. Here's a pic of a right rear deflector. I was thinking those rubber pieces pinched between the deflector and the body.

Dan, Thanks for your help again! Now you mentioned "the elongated side goes up"...Totally not how I pictured them being used. You wouldn't happen to have a pic., or a link to one, of them installed do you?

Wow say this 5 times fast...Rear Bumper Rubber Gravel Deflectors. These are the little elongated arrow head shaped pieces, that I guess go between the rear lower body/fender and the metal bumper gravel deflector inserts. I checked the parts book and it famously lists either As Required or didn't list a specific qty. I think these were meant to keep the inserts from vibrating or rattling against the body?... Has anyone gone thru the process of putting this little do-hickies in or did you just skip them?

Looking for "Special" emblems for front quarter panels. Featured on the '50 Special Deluxe models. Script is very similar to the 1957 "Special" just without the red/white/blue 1957 circle in the middle.