TexasJohn55

That's funny Bob, there's my problem! I have the same problem, it is counter-intuitive and I always have to recheck my book. Why is the primary shoe the shorter one and the secondary shoe the longer one? I rechecked shoe location when I revisited the issue and they are correct, but I did not think to measure the diameter and width of shoes. My manual says that the 40 series only uses 1 3/4" shoes on the rear and 2 1/4" shoes on the front whereas all others use 2 1/4 on the rear also. The 70 series uses 2 1/2 front and 2 1/4 rear. Mike, I have never had issues with springs in the past, they looked good so I re-used them.

55 Special Power Brakes. Has new wheel cylinders, hoses and MC rebuild. Drums look like new or turned, shoes have good lining and look to be seated so I degreased and sanded them. Has very good braking, too good on the rear, tends to lock up rears under hard braking below 40 mph, especially right rear but both will leave black marks. I have adjusted anchor pins and readjusted shoes, no effect. It seems to be improving the more I drive it, which isn't much, but it favors the rear brakes. Is it the nature of the beast?

Mike, for that job you get an "Attaboy!" and 2 Gold Stars! All things considered, I would say that a 6 day work week (50 hrs) is record time for that. TexasJohn

Mark, I fashioned one out of a black flat faucet washer. It is a little tedious, drill out the hole or use a small rat tail file to open it up so it fits snug on shaft then carefully and evenly work the outer edge down on some fine sandpaper until it fits snug in the recess. Mine doesn't leak but I got lucky. The copper washer is reusable. I'm not sure how long it will last because the faucet washer material may not live exposed to oil. I think you should be able to find something more suitable. TJ55

What Bernie means is both, you have to learn his "lingo". TJ

What Bernie means is both, you have to learn his "lingo". TJ

Yeah, I have noticed that. It seems they are always vague or imprecise on MY year model when the book covers several year models..........Marriage, I got lucky. Keep trying, none are perfect but hopefully still learning, life is a journey. TexasJohn

Padgett, Maximum torque at zero rpm, that's interesting and I understand the concept but would the flywheel and mass in motion add to the torque while running due to inertia?

Sure thing. I once had a friend bring me a Honda lawn mower that wouldn't start. He said it cranked up and ran a little while then got to where it died and wouldn't restart. It spun over with little compression. I removed the valve cover and valve a valve stuck down in the guide. I freed it up, changed the oil and ran it with a 8-12 oz of MMO for awhile. The engine looked clean inside but when I drained the oil it was BLACK! That was a year ago, haven't heard anything since then. TJ

Add a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil to the first oil change, if it runs ok, drive it awhile to cut all the carbon and varnish before you change the oil again. It will not hurt to leave it in there awhile to do it's work. You can rig a valve spring compressor lever setup to compress each valve to the max if the piston is down and you might feel the sticky ones as you slowly let them return. You will not be able to lube the stems and guides with bonnet style seals unless you unkey the valves at TDC and replace them as you go. Some engines used orings under the spring retainer instead of bonnet seals.

Yes, different sorts of wear patterns appear on bearings as well when "lugged down" to peak torque and below.

Joe, I have noticed you don't like Haynes manuals, did you have a bad experience or get burned using one of them? John

Isn't that normal? It does a "light check" on all warning lights when keyed on, then they cycle off. If it does not come on after starting up it may be ok. In response to your question, I do not know where the connector is on that car.

Try this,enter E041 is search box.

James, I just saved a copy to my computer, I can print off from my ink-jet and mail you a copy if you like. TexasJohn

The silence is deafening.

Then you have more money than time!?...............

Good article. From what I read, high fuel levels or high float setting or needle and seat leaking cause this after shutdown, especially heat soaking. I have seen a phenomenon like "wicking" also, contaminants build up a layer on the surfaces. You should try a new needle and seat and recheck float for leaking and filling with liquid and reset float level. You might even add a small 0-15 psi guage at carb inlet to monitor pressures,. If there is a fuel level plug on the side of that Holley, remove it after shutdown and see it fuel keeps running out. John Siphoning: Does that model have the tiny check ball underneath the accelerator pump and sqirter nozzle, one may be beneath the nozzle retainer screw in the body, could it be missing? I see help has arrived, Jump in here CarbKing!....

tenugent, Is there a remote possibility that you leaked a tiny bit of coolant into one cylinder while sitting and rusted it up? If so, it may have shown as a different looking spark plug when you pulled them. Also, it you haven't already changed the oil, crack the pan plug and be sure it's only oil that first dribbles out, not water and watch for condensation in the valve cover, you would have probably already seen rust when you pulled them. Just seems odd that the engine would stick that tight. TexasJohn

UPDATE: The '55 has been running nicely and quiet since running around town a little and cranking once in awhile. I'm not going to chase problems that go away when driven on a regular basis. It appears that no damage was done from the horrid snapping noise after sitting 6 months. New inspection sticker this week, first time since '03. Sure felt good to drive it around. Next project, shocks, feels like the rear need some fluid and front need replacing, and on and on..........

MrEarl, Spot on! I have it worse than would appear, it seems to come in waves-these irresistable urges sweep over me to fix something. I have a loving and (somewhat) understanding wife but have been getting some negative feedback lately, she says things like "the washer needs fixing, you need to put in a lockable keyed deadbolt to keep the 2 yr old grandson from running off, the roof still leaks, my dishwasher needs cleaning, my car needs PS fluid its noisy again, I'm gonna get a ticket for no inspection, etc,etc........" Starting to look like I'm spending more time on the forum instead of working! I think I have the '55 strain and hope it's not as bad as yours. And yes, I WILL pray for you AND the Misses. TJ55

I'm with you Rob! Funtionality and utility! What's the point in having a good looking woman to show off if she won't cuddle with you. Like having a slick and fat milk cow that don't give milk! 4 doors RULE! John

Bill, there is a flat-head screw with a little gasket on the driver side of the carb bowl if it's a WCD. That is for checking the proper float level. After running the engine and shutting back down, there should be fuel dribbling out that hole when you remove the screw. If a lot runs out it may be too high, if none runs out it is too low. Low float level won't fill the accelerator pump cavity and fuel slosh in a curve won't feed the main jets. The hesitation could also be the "driveability" issue I mentioned about not having a vacuum advance hooked up if it still isn't. My timing is set 3/4" BEFORE THE TIMING TAB for the same issue you are having, you COULD NOT DRIVE IT before I did that. I don't know why and don't care because she drives nice and NO PINGING OR CLATTER when I accelerate under load. Vacuum is stable at 17" hg, 20" from vacuum pump wiper hose. The flutter you have will NOT go away no matter how long you ignore it. If the valve seats and valves were ground too far, the valves bury up in the head effectively making them longer and protrude up against the rocker arms and pushtubes. If the rockers are not adjustable, the lifter is bottomed out internally and effectively becomes solid and begins holding the valve off seat. The lifter can only absorb appx .075" before it bottoms and holds the valve open. This would be MOST noticeable on hot engine because the valves actually grow in length. As Willie already stated, the possiblity of mismatched lifters and pushtubes should not be discounted. As to which cylinder or cylinders is causing the pulsing vacuum reading; start the engine COLD and run for 20 seconds, kill it and feel of the exhaust manifold at each port to find the cold one, crank and run 20 sec and feel again, crank and run 20 sec and feel again. Repeat until it becomes obvious which cylinders are at fault. your temp gun will assist you after the manifolds become too hot to feel. SORRY, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME TO MAKE THE TRIP TO CHATTANOOGA, WISH I COULD. There, Ive said my peace and shall not post on this thread any more. Regards, John

Yeah Barney, City code and ordinances require a 30 ft setback to structure and they banned carports altogether I think, grandfathered some existing structures. If I could get a variance or waiver I would have put up a double wide a long time ago. I may look into that again but chances of approval in my neighborhood are slim to none. Finances no longer allow moving as an option either so I'm kinda stuck now. John