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TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. Welcome aboard Robert,.......I'm sure that the guys in "Pre-War" forum can assist you as needed. I am concerned that a first time poster would admit to his sanity concerns though. It's OK to be "crazy" about old cars. TexasJohn, Philosopher and "Well Known Troublemaker"
  2. No offense but think slower. It was stated that it died when they TRIED to drive it. You assumed it wouldn't die in the driveway and I assumed it would. Who knows, I guess we will have to ask. TexasJohn
  3. Coil breakdown or sucking air into fuel stream? Hook up a timing light and drive it while watching strobe. Hook up a temporary clear fuel filter with long rubber hoses and hang it where you can watch it. That's all I got. TexasJohn I think the suggestion about temperature was that the high temperatures might relate to inducing vapor lock, not that vapor lock caused high temperature.
  4. Fresh out here except already posted observations. My 264 idles on 17". John
  5. Try posting on the "Reatta" forum, they have very knowledgeable followers and surely could help you. My first guess is a problem in the steering column with the wiring for the ignition. Connect a test light to something that is powered up with the ignition and see if it goes dead when turning the wheel. You could also check at the fuse panel to see if fuses goes dead for any of various items that are only powered with ignition on. TexasJohn
  6. Stan, .............Please DO NOT continue to run it, when the pin contacts the cylinder was, it will cut two nice grooves and ruin the block! There is also the possibility of the rod jerking the bottom out of piston, swinging and punching a hole in the block. When the slack or slop between the pin and rod or pin and piston becomes excessive, the shock load of the assembly reversing direction at speed is incredible. I suggest pulling the oil pan and rolling engine until that piston is within 45 degrees of top and feeling all the around cylinder to feel for grooves. Then put it on top and feel all the way to the bottom of skirt and check again. I would be wise to check all cylinders this way and check for any more loose pin bolts. PLEASE DO NOT RUN IT. TexasJohn
  7. Well Stan, I'm not familiar with that particular engine but if like others I have seen, the bolt clamps the pin in the central postion of the piston. The pin if not captured will slide to the end and rub the cylinder wall creating a groove. Again, I don't know this engine, it could be that the piston does have snaprings also to retain pin so I will let others more knowledgeable take over from here. TexasJohn
  8. Dang Bernie, that muffler sticks out like a diamond in a goats butt!! What kinda paint did you use on 'er? Brian, clue me in, what is "Linenkegal"? some kind of brew? TJ55
  9. Mike, you talking trash again or did I understand that you car is really named Lucille? Or is that "Loose Wheel", no , maybe that is a Kenny Rogers song? ? TexasJohn, Philosopher and "WELL KNOWN TROUBLEMAKER"
  10. I realize now that you have already made your decision by catching up on you other thread, but I wanted to point out that body removal is not that bad if you consider only the things you must disconnect, mostly at the firewall. Wiring, hoses, cables and such. The shift linkage from column and unbolt the steering box from the frame. The steering box can remain attached to the column and guide it out when lifting the body, no need to pull steering column. I won't detail the entire procedure, just not as complicated as it first sounds. Naturally you would remove pitman arm and PS hoses also. TexasJohn
  11. Well Brian, it's a start, that's the main thing. An old car is never finished, just a work in progress with less intensity than a restoration. Besides, we all need something constructive to do to have a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction in our lives. Philosopher and 'WELL KNOWN TROUBLEMAKER" TexasJohn
  12. Went to see the cars today at the Power Tour stop in Arlington and it was well worth the trip, I found a $20 bill in the middle of the overflow parking lot!......There were alot of cool cars there, more of them in public parking for visitors than in the participant lot. Was dissapointed that there weren't many fifties cars, a few Chevys of course but only ONE BUICK I think and it was a nice '54 Special. Did see 3 or 4 nice '69 GTO's which I am fond of but they were locals in the public lot also. You could stand on the street corner and watch without having to walk around as they were entering and leaving all the time, virtual parade of cool cars. Did see on old and very nice green Hudson Hornet and other odds and ins. Seems as most of participants were driving 70's and up models but thats ok, should have kept my '70 Chevelle SS396 but I never grew attached to it, just another car worth more to someone else. Just a few of my observations today, see ya! TexasJohn
  13. Yep, that's right! Lube does make it easier to close but she flushes up to the cowl and settles in better, just needs stiffer springs to keep it against the stops at full tilt. John
  14. Thanks guys but I need a better in depth understanding of it all before I could do an article. I'm adverse to putting out false or incorrect information that could mislead others. I sometimes try to help when I myself don't have a clear understanding of what I speak. I will consider the idea, just not right now. John
  15. Mike, having rebuilt one unit does not qualify me as an expert, just trying to help others while it is fresh in my mind. ( I'm afraid that won't last long because I couldn't remember how to remove a dash cap from the last time I did it!!) John
  16. Joe, when testing the unit while removed from lid, listen for vacuum leaks from unit, if you find it coming from the top of pump housing at the reed pin, lightly push it down and see if it stops leaking. That is one way of checking the integrity of the little rubber washer under the pin head. It will leak when piston hits full stroke but should not leak while piston is traveling up under vacuum. John
  17. Kad36 made some very good points. If any member knows of a comprehensive rebuild article on these vacuum pump, please post it for all of us. It would save authoring another piece on the issue. TexasJohn
  18. Joe, I forgot to mention a couple things. The water pickup on the bottom has a light check valve in it, blow back and forth thru it to be sure it seats when you suck on the pipe and opens when you blow into it. If your main return spring is broken, try a hardware store for a replacement. It is a 7/8" diam. x .080" wire x appx 5" long, If you can find a comparable spring rate.. I picked up a pack at Home Depot but not exactly what I wanted, a little too heavy spring but worked in a pinch. A spring as short as 4 1/4" should work. Also, the pump bodies have timing arrows, match them up on assembly, (but it will only go one way). John
  19. You are the future of this country young man, take that responsibilty soberly and always remember to place what's good for the country above what might be good for you and you will do fine.
  20. Joe,.........It really is easier to test on the car. First, disconnect vac hose at washer bottle and hook a vacuum guage directly to it, check vacuum when button is held down, that will show you if switch is erratic. My vacuum is weak at 15"hg idling. I have 20" from the Y connector when wiper motor hose is disconnected and dead ended into guage. Reconnect vacuum hose and remove water hose. Push and hold button appx 4-5 seconds and release. If it doesn't start squirting water after 5 or 6 cycles, it never will. Remove lid, remove the nut and pump from lid. Remove side hose and spring clip from middle of pump body. Make note of all parts and position. Mine had a broken spring. Clean up all parts and if still pliable, re-assemble in reverse order with light silicone grease or spray. That reed valve at top of vacuum chamber shuts off vacuum when pump hits full stroke and holds it there. Test it to see if it leaks vacuum when applied during piston travel, it should not leak until piston reaches top of stroke and then chatter. Mine leaked so I sealed the pump to the gasket surface with new gasket I made. You may need to use an 8" fine flat file to smooth the casting ridges so that you have a circular seal pattern with 4 radial lines to center fitting. Use a fender washer on top to increase clamping surface area, smear a little plumbers putty or caulk under the washer and tighten nut with fitting aligned same direction as other fitting.If the reed assembly does not leak, the top of the pump should have a vent path, I am not sure if it is critical. Check the water side check valve by alternately blowing and sucking of the pickup tube, it must backseat to hold water in the chamber. Re-attach hose and put back in jar. Test it on the car again. If it works, connect water hose and watch for leaks under the dash onto glove box or floor. I made a new gasket for my lid. If you use rubberized cork, you may get a better seal on pump than paper gasket.
  21. Thanks Willie, sorry for the delay, had to mow the grass you know. Behold, signature below,
  22. Hey Mike M. Just got mine working and they didn't need no stinkin' primin'! Of couse they did pee in the floor until I put on new hoses. John
  23. You have a good frame and front end, it isn't that hard is it. Just getting a couple A frame swing sets and hoists huh? We are here to butt in anytime. I like the idea of keeping it original, if not keep all the old parts. TexasJohn
  24. Well, I can get two streams to hit the windshield for a 3-4 second burst. It isn't like electric but it may suffice for now unless I hit some of them "Dang big old Texas bugs" ! Can you get parts for the washer pump and wiper motors? John
  25. Mike, Thanks buddy, when I went to look, I thought to try bumping straight up on each corner with the heel of my hand and "Voila!" it's off now. Thank you, thank you, thank you! John
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