RockinRiviDad
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Posts posted by RockinRiviDad
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Finally, the end result. My neighbor modified the store bought Holley bracket. Works great.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/brackets_and_linkage/parts/20-14
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42 minutes ago, Chris64 said:
Awesome build thread. How are you liking the sniper so far? l wondered if the intake gave any issues?
Thank u. LOVE the Sniper!
I just started a thread on my short experience.
No issues with intake
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Examples of my shotty throttle linkage fab work before realizing I forgot about my kickdown switch.
Here is an example of what I came up with to attach my kickdown. The problem was I had the kickdown mounted for the arm to pull out as the throttle was pulled back (accelerating). The arm is suppose to travel inward when accelerating.
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I am no mechanic…I will share how I “think” it works with the little experience I had. Hope the guru’s teach us both if I have it all wrong.
A few months ago I was fortunate to have a transmission mechanic aquaintance make a house call to help me sort this out. What he showed me was that the micro switch on the throttle linkage sends power to SP/KD (switch pitch/kick down) switch any time there is any pressure applied to the gas pedal.
So yes. My understanding is U need that micro switch to work. Otherwise the SP/KD will never recieve the signal
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14 hours ago, RoadShark said:
Where is the fuel pump mounted? Does it make a lot of noise?
Good questions.
Fuel pump is mounted to inside frame rail, behind the rear axle on driver side. Instructions recommend to mount as close to sending unit as possible (within 24”).
Holley actually recommends internal fuel pumps which last longer & are more efficient. But I did not think that was possible on our cars. I have since learned that universal internal fuel pumps (which mounts inside fuel tank) are available from a few company’s (Aeromotive is one). I spoke to an Aeromotive rep at a show & he claims it would totally work on our cars.
I wouldn’t call my external pump “loud”. But it makes noise, u can hear a hum/buzz. At idle & music off I can hear it. It’s not bad. And in my case, I still don’t have all my interior installed. I’m still lacking carpet & padding. I’m sure that will help muffle the hum. I may switch to an internal pump if/when my external one takes a dump.
Pic #1: external fuel pump
Pic #2: inline fuel filter between sending unit & pump
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On 12/28/2018 at 6:30 PM, RivNut said:
Looks good; sounds like you're a happy camper. How did you retain the linkage for the kick down and switch pitch?
Thank u.
Funny u ask. “Retain” didn’t just happen, it was a bit of a struggle. Linkage was actually problem #1 & kick down/switch pitch was problem #2 haha.
After the initial install of the EFI there was no “easing into the throttle”. It was either ON (full throttle) or OFF (no throttle).
It turns out that the factory mechanical throttle linkage angles on some old cars do not play well with some TBI’s or aftermarket carbs. Our cars have that kind of linkage. So I needed to change that angle. I spoke to a couple of shops & they all said they always fabricate brackets. I am NOT a fabricator but I thought “how hard can that be” right?
I had a hell of a time figuring it out. I went thru 5 brackets just to get the throttle linkage right including one store bought Holley bracket. I was so focused on throttle that I forgot about the kickdown/switch pitch. Then I made 2 more brackets that would accommodate the KD/SP before I figured out that I was mounting the KD/SP wrong...UGH!!! Lucky for me a neighbor showed up just before I torched my car in frustration haha. He offered to help modify the Holley bought bracket with his welding skills & WAH-LAH!! It worked...still gotta get that washer in place
Lots of learning...but I’m learning
EDIT 01/2020: DO NOT forget to check your TPS (throttle position sensor) after U install your bracket. I had to reconfigured my homemade throttle linkage bracket. U can see by comparing above pic to the one below that I moved linkage mount 3/4” forward to get more range. I had mine set at 97% @ WOT on my old bracket before I made a bracket to incorporate my kickdown. It never dawned on me to RECHECK my TPS. Now that I did I found that my kickdown wasn’t allowing full throttle. I was only getting 76% @ WOT…Ugh…I cut off top of bracket & had my neighbor weld on a piece of 1” angle iron, I drilled new mounting hole & cut away excess metal to avoid contacting rotating parts. I was able to achieve 92% @ WOT after all done. The kickdown still limits throttle travel. I was considering using an aftermarket kickdown switch. But after my test drive I am good with 92%…that is plenty good. I can FINALLY do burnouts.i hope this helps keep others from learning the hard way like I am
Here is another idea that might have been easier to do from the start. This is the Holley bracket I started with. If I would’ve cut this bracket like I did but rotated to point forward (to the left as it sits in this pic) before welding it that might’ve given me the throttle range I needed. Live & learn. Hope this helps someone.
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Woo WHOO!! I now have about 3500 miles clocked on my Nailhead. Approximately, 2500 of these miles are with my EFI.
I LOVE that is still resembles a carb. Simple & clean. With my air cleaner on guys at my local cruise-ins are blown away haha
My carb was 600 cfm’s. This EFI throttle body is 800 cfm’s. I’ve read that our Nailheads LOVE cfm’s & this 800 cfm sure made a difference haha
I purchased the Master Kit which includes the external Holley fuel pump, mounting hardware & hoses. This made it easy.
I really enjoy how I can simply fire my car up & drive it now. I was not that lucky with my carburetor.
I paid a reputible shop to do the install & I am pleased with their work. I was hoping that by hiring a pro I would avoid some headaches. Unfortunately, I still had a few problems which I sorted out. Overall, I am glad I made the switch.
One problem was that the O2 sensor was not welded correctly. The kit comes with an O2 bung, high temp gasket & quality straps to hold it in place. The shop said welding it in would be better. Well the weld job sucked & it was leaking. I didn’t catch it for a while due to the placement the shop chose. They put it kind of close to my frame rail. Not sure why. That is probably why they couldn’t weld around it right. Instructions call for placing O2 sensor “as close to engine, generally 6-8” from collector”. The shop placed mine further than that. Not sure why? Obviously, I will have to go have a talk with them.
I’m good for cruising with this setup. But another detail I learned is that the second half to any EFI is to pair it with an electronic distributor. Holley has one for our Nailheads on their website. So I will do some homework & see where this goes.
Edit: forgot to mention, the ECU is built into the TB. It sits just behind the nameplate on the face of the TB.
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Too many choices…this thread is never gonna end haha
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When u said “while everything is apart” I thought u meant everything was still apart haha. But it sounds like u put it all back together.
I greased the tracks while they were out of the car before install. Like someone already said, I used a little brush (solder flux applicator brush about 15 cents at HF). I bought a small tub of lithium grease not the spray.
U might still be able to use the brush method thru the two access holes for your quarter windows. You’ll have to take front door skins off to access tracks to use the brush. Or not & just try that spray.
Good luck
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Impressive! Me likey! 😬
I’m no screw expert. But I’ve dug thru many bolt bins at the home centers to know this kit is NOT all stainless steel screws. And some of these screws are located “out of sight”. But like Ed said, all of the screws that are visible are certainly made of stainless steel.
Great find guys. Thx for sharing
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Good thread…ordered mine…come as a pair…two different shades of black…oh well, I only needed driver side anyway.
I was gonna Gary’s method. The i remembered Winston’s comment about taking retractor apart. So I thought I would try that. Luckily, it worked out.
Thx guys
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I am happy to report that I just got off the phone with Mr. G’s. Jennifer there is a nice lady. She said the kit does come with instructions on where each screw needs to go.
I will post a pic as soon as the kit gets here
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Thx guys. Love the feedback!
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13 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:
The odds of fixing it yourself with no experience working pot metal and getting a good result would be the same as winning the powerball lotto.
Awesome! Soooooooo you’re saying I have a chance? 🤣
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Eh…thx…but not too worried about a new grill. I have bigger dents on my quarters & fenders to worry about haha
But original post asked the question about grill restoration. My question is fitting. Can dents/bends/gouges/scratches in these pot metal grills be fixed?
Here is what I would like to have straighten. I thought about adding some heat & bending it back? 🤷🏻♂️
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On 9/9/2018 at 2:28 PM, Garysriv said:
Not surprisingly my front belt retractor covers are busted up so I got replacements from the Parts Place.
Your project came out nice. Good job.
My driver side cover is busted up too. I tried the Parts Place site & cant find the covers. Can u pls post a parts number
thx in advance
edit:
I couldn’t find it under “Buick Full Size”. But I found these under “Skylark/GS/Regal/GN”
I think these are the ones
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I am considering buying a new package tray. I doubt I will buy from OPGI. Jason’s link doesn’t work anymore.
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These first gen grills are made of pot metal. Can the horizontal pieces in the “field” of these grills be straightened?
Holley Sniper EFI on my Nailhead
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Thank u sir