RockinRiviDad
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Posts posted by RockinRiviDad
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Cruising my car around is waaay cool. But its much cooler rolling with some tunes right? Yup...I pulled the trigger & installed some tunes. The plan was to keep it basic with the exception of not using a head unit...It kinda morphed from there & I went overboard.
Since my center console probably wont see the light of day anytime soon, I used one of those Bluetooth gadgets to stream music off of my phone...no need for a head unit
This multi-channel EQ allows for the refinement of sound thru my speakers that a head unit would’ve accomplished. Plus it allows for an aux cord to use my iPod. Love that!! My temp mounting locations SUCKS! I will be relocating that...
Power provided by a JL Audio 900w amp...
Top of the line 3-way Infinity 6x9’s were used for the rear deck. I ordered a 6x9 subwoofer that a member here recommended. It was to be mounted in the factory location between the two rear seats. The 3-way Infinity’s 6x9’s over powered that 6x9 sub. So I decided to use the same sub I am running in my truck...a shallow mount 10” Pioneer sub/enclosure combo
For front speakers I was excited to find two 3.5” two-way speakers that Classic Autosound sells attached to a mounting plate made to fit the factory speaker grill of my 65.
yes...a bit more than I had originally planned...but it definitely sounds fringin AWESWOME!! Now I gotta attack the trunk restoration & add sound deadener in there too...never ending saga haha
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I added more sound deadener. This time I covered the doors with it.
I never mentioned what product I used. This car is so big that I had to buy sound deadener 3 times & ended up with 3 different products. End result, I finally found a good product on amazon. Its actually thicker than the expensive DynaMat stuff but at less than half of the price.
Apparently, the little dimples on the foil are to be rolled out smooth to ensure proper adhesion. I did not do that. Looks like I have to go back & get after that
Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yACwCb4A41SQ1
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1 hour ago, whitewatersky said:
loving this thread - thanks for sharing.
it'll be handy for reference ... if I ever get my build going again...
Thank u…
no problem…if u are anywhere near me, I am more than willing to come help however I can (sorry, I can’t see your full profile from my phone)
heres a link to a better build haha. I found this link posted on the forum days ago by Schmiddy & I’m LOVING it haha. Makes me feel like erasing my work & starting over by following Schmiddy’s lead haha
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On 12/31/2018 at 6:13 PM, Rivdrivn said:
Maybe we need a nailhead art thread
Yes! I agree!
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HOLY SHET!!
U THE MAN SCHMIDDY!!!
Thx for sharing your site. Your work is AMAZING!!
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To think this is the same stuff we breath 😳
Sorry to hear about your misfortune
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1 hour ago, jframe said:
So, you're saying that I could do away with this A/C bracket over the valve cover since my car has a Sanden compressor with it's Vintage Air unit now? It will hold fine just mounted at the front?
Yes. That is my understanding. I have not crossed that bridge yet. But all the research I have found points to the same outcome. New style AC compressors (like ones used by Vintage Air) do NOT need the rear bracket on our first gen Rivs. Most recently I was talking to Russ Martin (Nailhead Guru in NoCal) & he confirmed this.
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I purchased door weatherstripping from Rubbertherightway over a year ago. But I just installed them a month ago. NO metal tab/ring
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🤕
My little brother works for UPS. He tells me the horror stories of how boxes are handled. I’m sure ALL shipping companies are the same. In this case, if it ain’t packaged like Bernie’s glass was then it ain’t gonna survive more than an 1/8 of a mile
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On 1/21/2019 at 12:39 PM, bunchabuix said:
I need one.
Jerry
ROA 8691
Unfortunatly, my buddy doesn’t wanna “tool up” just to make one bracket. Sorry
I was under the impression that more guys needed bracket
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Here is a pic of my standard AC bracket that would fit over non-finned valve covers. I have the finned valve covers. I always figured on modding my bracket once I get my AC in. But the further I get on my build the further from “stock” I am getting. I am now considering aftermarket AC which will NOT require this bracket of mine. That is still to be determined.
I took this pic at the same angle as the pic Powerage posted so we can compare the modded bracket vs non modded bracket. This mod is fairly easy for most of us to do on our bracket. But what if we/you don’t have a bracket??
Questions:
Would it be a good idea to ask my buddy if he wants to make these for u guys?
How many guys need them?
Is there a big demand for these?
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19 hours ago, George, buick-riviera.pl said:
Guys, which size should be used ?
The direction I was given by the forum was to use 5/16” on my 65. I did & it worked out fine.
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9 hours ago, George, buick-riviera.pl said:
Guys, is the installation of the windshield to be done with a tape ? If yes, which size should be used ?
The direction I was given by the forum was to use 5/16” on my 65 front & rear glass. I did & it worked out fine.
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On 1/8/2019 at 7:12 AM, jframe said:
These axles just bolt in, don't they? Since it's a chunk type rear, no "C" clips? Thinking about doing the rear axle bearings on mine, since I don't know how old they are.
Correct…no “C” clips
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I forgot to mention, one detail that the shop I used pointed out was that both main fuel line & return line needed to be 3/8”.
My car is a factory A/C car which requires a main & return fuel line. My plan is to add A/C someday. So I had already bought a pre-bent fuel line kit from a fuel line vendor. This fuel line kit I bought & installed was a big step in the right direction. Or so I thought…
That was NOT the case. Factory fuel lines for my A/C car is 3/8” for the main line & 1/4” for a return. I woulda probably tried to use the 1/4” line without knowing any better & something coulda went wrong. Glad the shop figured that out early & ran a new line.
The EFI kit comes with all the fittings u need for this step too. Here’s a couple pix
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My goal was to find a complete steering coupler to replace my ratty old coupler. Prliminary searches found that there are tons of rebuild kits out there. But no complete kits. By “complete” I mean I wanted a coupler that would simply require the removal of the old & installation of the new. Not the case. The rebuild kit does not look difficult to tackle. But I was being lazy & I did NOT want to do the work IF I could find a complete coupler. Looking back, this process was not bad.
I finally found a race shop that had a complete coupler. When I got there to pick it up it turned out “complete” meant “mostly complete”. Apparently, they ALL require some kind of parts swap. In this case, the part needing to be swapped was the coupler/clamp that the steering column shaft slips into.
Pic #1: U can see where the missing coupler is missing on one side. U can see their style grounding strap is different than some guys are used to seeing. Also, its kinda hard to see in this pic but both the rotation limiting stubs & mounting stubs are different sizes.
Pic#2: shows the coupler/clamp that slips over the steering box input shaft
Pic #3: Old coupler in vise. In order to separate the two halves I used my cut-off wheel to cut the rivets.
Pic #4: The two halves separated. U can kinda see the old grounding wire if u look closely
Pic#5: Once cut, the old rivets would not simply fall out. I had to use a punch to drive them out. Didn’t take much effort.
Pic #6: Like I mentioned earlier, the mounting stubs are different sizes. So I simply drilled out the appropriate hole.
Pic #7: Last few steps were to clean & paint the old half & join the two halves together.
This is a pretty simple write-up. I hope this helps others.
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5 hours ago, telriv said:
Yes, choke fully open & at hot idle for PROPER adjustment.
32 minutes ago, telriv said:As long as the throttle is closed in the idle position the engine doesn't need to be running. Just key on engine off. REMEMBER, DON'T leave the ignition on without running for any length of time.
I wish I was better at this stuff. I’m confused. I’m sure I’m the only one. Sorry for being so dense.
I had my engine cold, engine off, key hanging on the hook in the garage when I adjusted mine.
Can u pls help me understand how the choke, hot idle & ignition being on plays a part in PROPER adjustment. I’d like to get mine right too. Thx
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2 hours ago, telriv said:
Yes, choke fully open & at hot idle for PROPER adjustment.
Fianlly, a Guru chimes in haha
So how do u suggest PROPER adjustment for those of us (me 😬) without a choke?
And “hot idle” I assume means to have the engine running at op temp at idle during adjustment of micro switch?
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I may be misunderstanding u. Choke & idle have nothing to do with setting it. The micro switch is only operated by the throttle linkage when u press the gas pedal.
Choke = butterfly valve adjustment
idle = set screw adjustment
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5 hours ago, RivNut said:
David,
How about a separate thread on the rebuild of this rag joint. The full scenario from beginning to end with lots of pictures and tech talk.
Ed
Haha…I’ll do the best I can with what I got. But u guys know I’m no mechanic…so I may lack some of the “tech talk” u want haha.
I didn’t take too many pix. But I think I may have enough for a good write-up.
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The only forward spring I have is the factory one that comes up from below the micro switch. The spring hooks to a plate screwed to the throttle linkage mounting base on the firewall.
My micro switch is cracked. I was still able to adjust it tho. It doesn’t take much movement to set it. Loosen the tiny screws & with throttle in the resting position push the micro switch forward until u hear the mechanical click of the switch. Tighten screws. Then test it by pushing rearward only on the vertical throttle linkage rod coming up from firewall. The slightest pressure on the rod towards the firewall simulates your foot pressing on the gas pedal. There should be movement between the vertical throttle rod & the horizontal rod that it attaches to. That slight movement is all u need to open the micro switch.
Hope that makes sense. Most important, I hope I got it right.
Guru’s wanna chime in?
My 65, another build to follow
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
I recently sent my entire gauge cluster (including plastic surround) off to get work done. I used a company near my work called North Hollywood Speedometer & Clock Co. I was very happy with the result. I had them overhaul my speedo, reset my odometer to current mileage on rebuilt engine, repaint all orange needles, clean/test all circuit board runs, replace burned out bulbs, paint scratched up clock bezel & polish all lens. I asked about converting my clock. But the price seemed high especially after reading the recent clock conversion thread.
Once they returned it, the gauges looked amazing which made the plastic surround look like garbage. In my normal “work backwards” fashion haha, I took the gauges back out & proceded to attack the renewal of my plastic gauge cluster surround. All the aluminum like decorative sticker inserts looked purple from the sun beating on them? Or just the heat?
I did not want to lose the thin 1/8” aluminum decorative stripe on these inserts. I tried to find 1/8” masking tape & couldn’t find it. So I used 1/8” pinstripping tape. It worked fine.
The paint process kinda sucked tho. Everything I read & advice I was given all said I gotta use adhesion promoter to paint plastic. So I did...it didn’t lay nicely...I hated the finish. Sanded it all smooth & just used paint. It came out BITCHEN!!
Check out all the mounting holes that are broken. I ordered a two part epoxy from SEM products to restore these tabs. These little tabs are not as important to fix as the main mounting tabs that I plan to fix on my center console. I also have the task of fixing the plastic mounting tab that holds my glove box door hinge. I will practice on the little stuff first. I might start a separate thread on that repair. Didn’t see anything when I tried the search function.
Other than tab repair, I thought I was done renewing my cluster surround. Then I discovered Schmiddy’s website. Wow! Good job Schmiddy!! Now I gotta steal a couple ideas he shared haha. One idea being the turn signal & high beam indicator repair. Love that! I will also try his LED bulb idea & his technique of using thin gauge metal to repair the larger tabs on my center console. Incorporating thin gauge metal like he did may work wonders on my glove box door hinge mount.
BEFORE/AFTER
BEFORE/AFTER
1/8” PINSTRIPE TAPE IN PLACE BEFORE PAINT
EDIT: I had to squeeze this in here. Schmiddy made me do it haha. U can see my turn signal indicator wasn’t in bad condition. I simple touched it up with a hobby brush. Mine didn’t come apart quite like Schmiddys did in his pix