Doug 845

I wonder if the engine was replaced? 1913 was the first year of the 6 cylinder for Moyer, but this 1913 still has a 4 cylinder engine. Was the 6 cylinder an option?

The master cylinder looks scary. The quick paint job on the engine makes me wonder what type of other work was done to make it look pretty.

Car is sold per the owner.

I was just informed by the owner the car is sold.

Beautiful car. I always wanted a Model T because of the ease of finding parts and never considered a Chevy, but this car has me thinking. How easy is it to find parts for a 1917 Chevy? Is it hand crank to start? It looks like it has a clutch and gear shift like a Model A. Was Chevy more advanced than Ford? Does it have mechanical brakes? When did Chevy start to manufacture the 1917 models?

Were the blinds an actual option from the factory or an owner accessory? Quite unique.

California location - Arizona license plate????

Nice car. I wish it were closer to me. The enclosed transportation cost to the northeast is a deal killer for me.

What State is the car located in?

I wish that my 1934 Ford Coupe bodies and chassis would sell on the Fordbarn. They are both listed for sale for $16,500. I would buy this T in a minute.

The numbers stamped on the block looks like they were shaved down and re-stamped. The coil box has a 1916 faceplate.

I would like nice original used or NOS clamps & hangers for a 1933 or 1934 V8 Ford. I really don't want to use the universal kinds because they don't look right on an original car.

Check out my '39 for sale on Ebay. I'd rather sell it to someone here that would keep it original and restore it. Make me an offer.

I would like to thank everyone who gave me the solutions to my problem. I am trying to get the car running its best before I put it away for winter. All I have left to do now are the brake wheel cylinders and shoes.Its great to have a forum of Chrysler experts providing much needed advice to novice backyard mechanics like myself. Again, thanks to all.

I called All American Carb and explained my carb problem again. The mechanic who rebuilt the carb told me to adjust the idle set screw and enrich the fuel mixture. It worked. My car now idles when the choke plate is fully opened. The car now idles very very slightly a little uneven with the vacuum gauge reading between 16.5 to 17. I checked my dwell again and now my old dwell meter is reading 36. I readjusted my timing to TDC. c49er mentioned in a previous post my dwell should be set at 38. My shop manual doesn't have a dwell setting for my '39 Chrysler 6 Cylinder. Is 38 the correct setting for my '39? If it is, should I reset my point gap for such a small difference?

I called the shop and explained what I found when I did the smoke test. He said that the throttle shaft would be hard to find and a bushing might be required. There is a little wiggle room on the shaft when I move it. The car is a low mileage vehicle (59K mile). The car dies when the choke plate opens fully even after I adjust the carb for more fuel. The only vacuum leak I found was at the throttle shaft.

I did not get a manual with the meter. I think the meter has seen better days. What I did was check for a vacuum leak with a smoke test. I found out that the throttle shaft is leaking from excessive wear. I'll have to ship the carb back to All American Carb and have a bushing installed.

c49er, The point gap is set at .020. The Dwell angle is reading about 22. I am using an old dwell meter I bought off of Ebay that has to be played with to get it to work.. How do I adjust the dwell to reach 38. I am obviously not a mechanic and could use all the help I can get.

I installed the new coil and it seems to have improved. The dwell meter I have is old and finicky. I have to play with the switches to get it to work. The best I could do was to get the dwell set at 22 instead of 20. The timing is correctly set at TDC. The only problem I have now is the carb. After the car engine is completely warmed up, the throttle plate opens wide open and the car starts to run rough. If I slightly close the plate the car runs smooth. Is the plate suppose to be wide open when warm or slightly closed?

I followed the shop manual and made sure the new wires are correctly installed. I installed new Autolite 306 spark plugs - gapped per manual specs. I ordered a replacement coil from Andy Bernbaum and will install that next weekend after I receive it. Based upon his advice I ordered the generic 6 volt coil and will have to make an adapter of some sort. He said he could get an original one made but it would take 4 weeks and cost $225. He said try the $39 coil first to make sure that the coil is the problem. Jack M suggested checking the dwell which I will do first. I didn't realize that gap setting & dwell setting is the same thing. I do own a 6 volt dwell meter. Grimy refers to worn distributor cam lobes which make perfect sense because I noticed this when I replaced the points. By using Jack M's & Grimy's suggestion, I will use the dwell meter to fine tune the dwell setting. Thanks to all - I will post results after the dwell adjustment.

I adjusted the valves cold - 2 thousands over @ .010 & .012 by turning the car over with the distributor cap off. I could see when the rotor was at the high point of the cam at each cylinder and then traced the wires back to each spark plug and adjusted each pair of valves individually. I found that the #4 intake valve was way to tight and the #3 exhaust valve was slightly lose. I then started the car and let it run for about 10 minutes and did the same tracing procedure and checked the hot factory clearance specs of .008 & .010. I was surprised to see that the valves were nearly perfectly set using the cold clearance settings. I had to only tweak a couple valve clearances. The car runs better and I adjusted the timing back to TDC. I still doesn't run perfect - but it did improve. I wondering if I set the valve gap slightly wider that the car would run even better after if warms up. Perhaps my expectations are a bit to high - expecting a 1939 car to run like a 2016 model. Thanks to all who replied to my posting.

I replaced the condenser with the tune kit and nothing changed, I'll try adjusting the valves first. What is the best way to adjust them cold? I was told to adjust them 2 one thousand inches over cold (so I don't burn my arms / hands on the exhaust). Do I just turn the car over with the starter a little at a time by myself until I get all the valves adjusted? I hope the coil isn't crapping out because that costs some serious coin. I changed the plugs (oily old ones) and the dry compression tests were all great and very close (120 lbs).

I have a misfire on my 1939 Chrysler Royal 6 Cylinder after it warms up for about 5 minutes. I've tuned it up, had the carb rebuilt by All American Carb, installed a new fuel pump, and new plug wires, The engine starts fine and runs great until it warms up. What would cause this? I hate to start replacing parts and waste what little money I have. The vacuum gauge reads fairly steady at 17 and when misfires drops to 16. I've advanced the timing slightly to because of the low reading on the vacuum gauge. As a side note - the rebuild by All American Carb was outstanding. I had a local carb shop in NY rebuild the carb and wasn't satisfied with their work. The local rebuild made the car run rough and decided to find another shop that could do the job right. I read some posts here on the forum about All American Carb in FL and the comments were spot on. Their rebuild made the carb look and perform like brand new.

There is a 1907 Model R for sale on ebay today. What parts aren't correct? At first glance the cowl lights seem wrong, the rear light is not brass, & the horn doesn't seem correct. What else am I missing? What would be an accurate value for this car? I'm comparing the pics posted on ebay to the car in the AACA museum.

If anyone is interested, check out my Royal on ebay.