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Everything posted by 1935EB

  1. I found the steel toe board! The photos show it to be a little worse than I remember it. The wood floorboard is up side down but you get the idea. The photo of the steel plate around the hand brake lever is from AACA member John Doerfler's car. Note the front edge is bent upwards at an angle that is consistent with the toe board. The reproduction one I bought from N/C industries is flat and will need to be bent. There is some progress on the gas tank apron. Holes have been filled in left fender. The correct fasteners for the gas tank apron to fender are 1/4-20 Round Head Bolts (aka Stovebolt in the early 30's Chevrolet world). The floor pan presents a problem. The 1960's fix up included a new floor pan. As you can see the problems are fairly obvious and not just an alignment issue. Steve will reposition the front wood floor board as original. The rear wood floor board is about an inch and a half too long because the new floor pan has an incorrect opening. In order to accommodate the wood floor board we would need to cut the steel floor board back a bit (see earlier posts on this thread). My inclination at present is to leave it alone and trim down the rear of the wood floor board. Left alone there are no problems with clearance with the battery box and raised center of the X Member on frame. Hope this is informative, Chris
  2. Hard to believe those are the same front fenders that Ed was working on earlier!! Chris
  3. Hello Tom, Yes it appears the website was compromised and the last few posts are missing from most threads. I will try to repeat the last one. My comments were that many folks both in the thread and through private messages had provided excellent input on the body mounting pads etc. There are three body brackets on the frame side rails and also one on the front of the cowl below the firewall (eight total counting both sides). The pads here are made of a canvas like material and they suspend the body over the frame side rails providing clearance above the rivet heads on the top of the frame. Back on the rear of the frame there is body webbing between the body and the frame. The thickness of these pads can also be used to adjust the levelness (?) and position of the body. Another input was that there is body webbing on the top of the gas tank (between frame and tank) and also on the top of the gas tank straps. This webbing is a little wider than the straps themselves about a 1/4 inch on either side. Grounding of the fuel tank sender is accomplished through the fuel line. I posted pictures of the rolling chassis, the front fenders,and the progress being made on the rear clip: The front fenders are not as bad as I had feared: Some more Chassis views: The rear clip work is nearing completion. Steve is working on the gas tank apron which looks better than it actually is. Steve will begin assembling the car with the pieces in primer to determine fit and shape. He will do the heavy hammer and dolly work to be sure they fit. He will then disassemble the pieces, prepare the surface for the finish color coat of Durode Gray (dark tan). The body and sheet metal will be one color. Hope you all enjoy the progress report. Chris
  4. Ply33, This is very helpful. I can see the small rivet heads on the top of the running board splash apron in photo two. They had to hold something. The body mount pad looks to be 1/4 or 3/16 inch thick? Once compressed with the weight of the body there will still be clearance between the wood side sill and the top of the rivet head on top of the frame. Back on the drop in the frame above the rear axle there would be webbing on the top of the frame rail. Very interesting. Thanks for posting these photo's. It is amazing the amount of knowledge on this forum. Chris
  5. Tom, So the top of the body bracket is level with the top of the rivet heads, this makes sense. I would also use webbing only where the body contacts a frame bracket and a frame rail. To answer the earlier question, the webbing is flat with no piping. This leads to the next question. Is there piped weather strip between body and top of running board splash apron, also what goes between running board and lower splash apron? Thanks again, Chris
  6. Welcome! Keep us up to date on the progress. In addition to the radiator outlet I wouldn't drive this car one inch with out looking at the water out let on the head! Good luck, Chris
  7. The wiring harness for my 1933 PD Plymouth has the outside braiding as well, also my early 30's Chevrolets. I purchased a new one from Y n Z. These folks were very helpful. They modified my harness to include turn signals, fog lights, etc, and blended this wiring into the harness. The wire braiding machines are special equipment and the operators are specially trained. This is one of those areas like chrome plating and pot metal repairing where I leave it to the experts. Chris
  8. Got some photo's of the Plymouth. They have made good progress on chassis and frame. We will be assembling the primed sheet metal panels in a few weeks for fit and form. The pictures show the running board splash apron in it's approximate position. For the Dodge and Plymouth guy's who have done this before I have a few questions. This car had a "fix it up restoration" in the late sixties early seventies. The running boards that came with the car were from a 34 Plymouth. and I have no idea how the pieces were originally fit together. The front and rear of the running board and splash apron are attached to the fenders with 1/4-20 Hex Head bolts, per the parts book. The parts book indicates there are 9 tubular rivets. Do these rivets hold the bottom lip of the side splash apron to the running board? My new rubber coated running boards from Buckeye Robber do not have these holes pre drilled. There are 9 holes of the proper size in the splash apron plus 2 "new" ones. The driver side has only these 9 holes and no extras. They are about 3-16 inch in diameter. Do these 9 rivets hold the running board to the splash apron or does it only hold welting? Along the top of the splash apron are 6 more holes about 3/16 inch in diameter. Do these hold another piece of welting with rivets as they come up against the bottom of the body or are there screws that go through these and screw up into the wood used in the frame rails of the body? These screws could also hold the welting in place here as well. I have body webbing 1/8 inch thick to place on the top of the frame rails and to place on the body bolt brackets. The rivet heads stick up more than 1/8 inch, should I use two layers or use 1 layer at least 3/16 inch thick to accommodate those rivet heads? I have been told there are not any body bolt pads as you see on a Chevy of this time period and that only webbing is used. The tabs that extend from the splash apron to the body bolt holes help align the splash apron. I am thinking these should be on top of the webbing and touching the bottom of the body? Thanks for all your input, Chris
  9. Taylormade, Here is a photo of what they could be. You mentioned a 1/2 inch nut. Did you mean the wrench size or the bolt diameter? These are made of brass as they should be for plumbing work. In reality most that you find are cad plated carbon steel. This style of bolt is used more for shear than anything else, and also places where the head is blind and not reachable by a wrench. A bolt with a 1/2 inch wrench flat is usually a 5/16 bolt diameter. Hope this helps. Chris
  10. Taylormade, They look like the bolts used to hold a toilet onto a floor flange. They come in two popular sizes in the plumbing section of your local hardware store, 1/4-20 and 5/16-18. the length is usually 2 inches or more and you would cut these down. Larger diameters are another story and if these are 3/8 or 1/2 diameter bolts I would give a call to Restoration Specialties and Supply Co. For the windshield frame the same company has the barrel nut and oval head screw set. The are nickel plated brass and you have to order each part as a separate item. Chris
  11. Here is a photo of what is left of my front motor mount. I am thinking the "U" shape should fit in the "U" shape of the engine to frame bracket in the above photo. Note it has a straight 1934 type but it looks like the 1933 PD mount shouldfit in there. My mount only has a little rubber left on it. Chris
  12. Thanks for keeping this in one thread. You are about a few months ahead of me and my 1933 Plymouth and I find this to be an excellent guide. It gives advance warning as to what I can expect. It doesn't get better than this. Chris
  13. Thanks Countrytravler I will be in touch shortly. That Dodge toe board looks about the same. I am wondering if some other folks have an input on this?? Thanks also for showing what the "insulation panel" on the underside looks like. I remember those teeth that protrude outward and that hold this insulation in place. They were on the one that I had that "disappeared". As soon as I get a new toe board the old one will show up. Another question, please look at the photo below. This is a 1934 PF engine in my 1933 PD frame. It looks like the flat style 1934 PE PF front engine rubber mount is used. I think the arched type rubber mount and a different front motor mount frame is used in 1933 PD models. Anyone know if this is correct? Anyone have the correct style front engine mount frame and rubber insulator that they would part with? Antique Auto Parts Cellar looks like they have all these rubber mounts, some require a core for their vulcanization process. Fun fun fun Chris
  14. Getting the frame stripped down of rust, grime and very little old paint. Does this mean that this is the 798 th PD Plymouth frame built? Should it match the engine serial number or any other number? Chris
  15. Looking to buy a steel toe board for a 1933 Plymouth PD. Will be used in the restoration of the Plymouth covered in "Paint Colors for 1933 PD Plymouth" thread in this section. Pictures shown on page 4 and 5 of this thread. Thanks, Chris
  16. The photo in post 35 shows no toe board. It fills the empty space right to left between the two angled supports and directly below the firewall. One of these supports has the headlight dimmer switch. It is made of sheet metal with reinforcements pressed in. Chris
  17. Hi Tom, Starting back in the rumble set area and moving forward to the hinge pillars is all steel and welded in place. The next two are wood and are removable as shown in the pictures above. The toe board is steel and it is where the gear shift lever comes through. It is screwed onto the toe board support plates. It has a provision for mounting a heat insulation matte. I am sure the firewall has one of these mattes as well but I have never seen what they look like. I am guessing horse hair covered on one side with a thin layer of black rubber as they are in my Chevrolets of the same vintage. I removed mine back in 1979 and with three moves later, well you know the story. Anyone having an extra one and willing to part with it would be in my debt. Chris
  18. The body is going well. The patch panels (four of them) from Riley's (Floyd) worked out well as you can see. Interior now needs to be worked on. Holes have been filled in the firewall in accordance with an earlier discussion. I think the wood floor board supports are in the wrong place. The floor of this car was cut out and replaced. I believe the wooden board over the battery tray and under the seat should start at the hinge pillar and move forward. The little floor board cross member needs to be 2 1/8 inches wide and should be positioned using the wood floor boards as a guide. These floor boards were made by NC Industries. I am in need of a steel toe board as I have misplaced the original from this car. If you have an extra or know of one that someone else has please let me know. Chris
  19. Hi Tom, Let me work on this. Chris
  20. Some progress to report. Most of the car has had the old paint and rust stripped, major dings knocked out, holes welded closed, fillers added and a fresh coat of primer sprayed. Doors and fenders. More photos as time allows. Chris
  21. Hi Mike, These are not for sale until I find out what they go to. They have the same red primer and blue black overspray as the 1933 Plymouth had. I am still trying to determine where they go. Chris
  22. Tom, Some photos may help. There is a crown and I think you can see it in the photos. Thanks, Chris
  23. Kev33, That luggage rack is a great example of a 1934 Master or Standard Chevrolet rack. It probably fits Pontiacs and small Buicks as well. The Chevrolet emblem goes between the two Stainless Steel strips at the top of the rack. The Dodge is beautiful and I hope it runs as well as it looks. Your avatar shows a 1933 Plymouth PD, are you working on one of these as well? It amazes me how similar the 1933 and 1934 Plymouths and Dodges really are. In 1933 Plymouth had the PC and PD. The PC had the shorter headlight buckets like on this Dodge. Did Dodge have a major change up in 1933 models like Plymouth did? Chris
  24. Thanks Taylormade. What is great about your car is that it is original. This is probably the first time the top of the frame has seen daylight since it was manufactured. Chris
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