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1935EB

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  1. Dave the video is awesome!! A AACA club member has asked me if the 1933 Plymouth engine used a water distribution tube. This would aid in moving water to the rear of the block. It would be made of sheet metal. I have borrowed a picture of one for a later Plymouth Dodge car or truck as sold by Roberts Auto Parts. I do not know if 1933 used one. Can anyone shed light on this? Thanks, Chris
  2. Reg, Of the three mentioned by Todd the 1st and 3rd are the best. The 34 to 36 repair manual from Plymouth is a lot like Windows "Help". You get a lot of information but not much you can actually use. I am being a little cynical but the handbook is full of good stuff and also the 3rd party booklet has very useful procedural instructions that the big manual has a tendency to "gloss over". You can find all three on Ebay under Vintage Car Literature. Chris
  3. Some progress to report. The engine has been disassembled, hot tanked, and clean. The engine rebuilder, G&G Performance in Tomball TX, tell me that this is the first rebuild for this engine. I do not know how many miles were on it. The water jackets were full of rust, there was some ridge around the top of the cylinders. They were able to bore the cylinders .030 over. As many of you know the lifters on the 1933 are unique to this engine. G&G say they will re machine mine. I will order a engine rebuild kit from Kanters. It should arrive in January and than G&G will reassemble the engine. Than the engine will go to the paint shop and be installed in the frame. Once in frame the sheet metal can be painted and installed along with the top and upholstery. I'm optimistic! Notice the pesky water pump has been removed. It took heat and penetrating oil to break down years of rust that had this stud frozen tight to the pump flange. I am hopeful the pump can be rebuilt as this is also unique to the 1933.The 1934 and up have a nice bypass that probably improved circulation. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to ya'll. Chris
  4. This is the cowl vent assembly. Envision it as though you are on the floorboard looking up at the bottom side of the cowl. As with a lot of parts on this car I had to find the handle from another car. I found the spring in my cars "miscellaneous box" as well the "L" shaped cam follower. I discovered the little bracket to which this "L" bracket attaches with a clevis pin. Do I have the handle assembled correctly? Thanks, Chris
  5. Some of you are already aware, and I am sorry to report to others, that my Mother passed away at the end of September. She was 89 and had her wits about her right up to the end. I am thankful for your Prayers and kind thoughts.
  6. Many thanks Erick! It would not surprise me to learn that the window parts were galvanized. Mine looked like they could have been. I think for restoration purposes the paint will work fine. In a wet and humid area like Houston I think the paint will be better than galvanize. Is the rubber channel available from a supplier that you Know? The more you see good original cars the more you learn. Is that a round rubber bumper riveted to the front of the grille at the top? On the window glass I was thinking of using black window setting tape and cut it flush with a razor blade. The little rubber bushings (anti rattle) on the metal rod will be replaced with a longer rubber hose like a vacuum line. Thanks, Chris
  7. Erick and others, For those with an intact 1933 PD Grille can you provide the dimensions as shown on drawing? I hope the drawing is legible. The temperature gage is back and "The Temperature Gage Guy" did a very nice job. The turnaround was about 1 week. I sandblasted the lower side door window channels and the instrument cluster housing. I spray painted with dark grey primer. Thanks, Chris
  8. Thanks Erick, I think a sketch with dimensions of the rubber piece would be helpful. Chris
  9. Thanks Selmer. Erick can you post a few more pictures of the rubber part?
  10. Here is a photo of the Engine placed on an "EZ Run Cart" that makes it easy to move around. I have been having a tough time removing the water pump. The photo shows the pump. It is attached with three nuts on the bottom that are threaded onto three studs. The passenger side and center are loose. I can see day light between the pump housing and the front of the block. The pump housing is frozen to the stud on the driver side which you can see in the close up. I have used PB Blaster and WD 40. No help. I have hammered on this with a flat ended punch until I felt I would do damage in continuing. I have applied heat but maybe not enough. I do not think this is a unique problem and that it may be problematic with early Plymouths. Any experience and advice before I really heat it up and use a hammer chisel with a blunt chisel to force it off the stud???? Easy Run is the name of the cart and you can find them on eBay or direct by searching for it. Chris
  11. Well things are getting a bit more back to normal now that my Mother is out of the hospital. She is doing well, and thanks for your kind thoughts and prayers. Since we have had recent input on door window frames I wanted to post photos of the door window frame tracks. I hope these pictures show the detail. I will be sandblasting these and painting them dark gray primer. They attach to the door at the top and bottom. They are not lined with rubber or felt but instead the window frame travels on metal rollers. It is important to note that only the convertible had the window glass supported within a metal frame so these may be different from the closed cars. Some notes. On the one marked driver front (third one up from bottom) you see a small bracket attached with a screw. This bracket is missing on the passenger front. I bought these from a guy who said they came from a '34 Plymouth. The '34 convertible was only available in the 112 inch wheelbase version and only with a vent window that the '33 did not have. I am wondering what this bracket is attached to and if it only was used on '34 models. These window frame tracks are the same as '33 otherwise. In fact I had only one track that came with my car and it matches up with the new ones. In the center are two piece strips that I believe hold an "L" shaped rubber weather strip that prevents rain water from flowing down into the door. The weather strip might also "squeegee" the water from the window glass as it moves up and down. These also came with the '34 window frame tracks and I think the reason there are two pieces is to accommodate the vent window mechanism in '34 convertible models. A '33 convertible would be one continuous strip? Hopefully someone with an original door intact can shed some light on this. Other progress to report is that the engine has been made ready for the engine rebuilder. I will be delivering this next week. I see where Kanter's has complete rebuilding kits for these cars, bearings, valves, pistons, etc. I have heard good things about Kanter's and would like your feed back as well. Please let me know. Chris
  12. Keen25 and Scott. They are made of carbon steel with a thin laminate of stainless steel wrapped over them. They tend to rust from the inside out if water gets in past the seals and glass. The lamination makes it difficult to straighten a bent section as they end up with wrinkles. The stainless part does not rust under normal conditions and does respond to polishing with the right equipment. I will post pictures later when I get a chance. Chris
  13. That painted section on the door top is interesting. Most 1933 convertibles I have seen have these and they are red. In a black and white photo red usually appears to be a light gray or even white when it contrasts against a dark color like black or navy blue. The photo shows good detail on the top boot cover. I think this is a 1934 Plymouth as well. It is a shame you cant see any of the top iron detail that would indicate chrome plated or painted (white metal). Chris
  14. Following are some pictures of the instrument cluster. The oval cover plate is nickel plated, glass has been cleaned. There is a round rubber seal about 1/16 inch similar to a large o-ring that is sandwiched between the glass and the instrument case. I carefully wiped the dust from the face of the main instrument panel being careful to not scratch it or remove the reflective gold paint. The pictures show the actual instruments they have not yet been wiped down. The instrument case will need a light sandblasting and it looks like it is gray on the outside and flat white on the inside. As most temperature gauges go they all seem to need attention and this one is missing the bulb that goes into the cylinder head. Some guys in the Vintage Chevy Club use "The Temperature Gauge Guy" ( Mr. Martin in Burlington VT 802-862-6374 ). He can repair and has information on most temperature gauges, including the tubing length, bulb size, threaded retainer nut, etc. He will rebuild mine for about 110 to 120 dollars. He will supply new capillary, bulb, and retainer nut. I assume this will be calibrated as well. He will reuse the spring wire that is wrapped around the capillary tubing. More pictures as this part moves forward. Thanks for your patience with my recent absence. My Mother has been in the hospital twice in the last two months. I pray for a healthy and speedy recovery. She is 8 years older than this Plymouth and in better condition. Thanks, Chris
  15. Mike, Those inside door panels and the outside door handle escutcheon indicate Dodge or Desoto. 1933 PD Plymouth has oval outside door handle escutcheon. Chris
  16. Thanks for the kind words. Dave the photos of the blue Dodge are very revealing. Note the Dodge convertibles have a chrome plated top iron set this I think is right for 33 and 34. For 33 Plymouth they are painted glossy black, for 34 Plymouth they list them as "white metal" what ever that is. The photo showing where the top center bow is attached to the lock pillar shows a thin rubber pad that I never knew existed. This looks like it can be made from a rubber pad. Thanks again!! Chris
  17. Guy's, Hope to have some new info posted soon. My mother has been very ill and in the hospital, she's 89. Also, even though retired, I find that I am busier now than when I had a desk job. Chris
  18. Happy Easter to all. We give thanks for all God's blessings. Tom thanks for showing the orientation of the rubber bumpers. Steve finished most of the work on the front of the package tray. A few more welds and also the fabrication of the top iron rests comes next. The new part will be welded into place on top of the package tray. This red one is what it should look like (photo from Scott B.). This is how my new one turned out. It is made from subassemblies that are welded together. You can find earlier photos of these in earlier postings. Thanks for looking, Chris
  19. Hi Tom, The ones you are showing are the rears. I meant to ask about the other ones that are for the front. I had them mixed up. None of mine had any rubber on them and if I had not looked at the Then and Now website I would not have known they existed other than the metal plates. I have come to discover that everything has a purpose and to not ignore things like this. Your bumpers look in great shape for age of them. Chris
  20. Some progress being made. The guy's at Old Parts Cellar (Then and Now Automotive) did a great job on the parts that needed rubber vulcanized to them. Their service was excellent. I gave them a week before checking to see if they had received the parts and when I phoned they had the parts ready to go and were waiting on me to give them a credit card to charge. Can anyone tell me which direction is front on the rear axle bumpers? Even the motor mounts are marked with which direction is front. Steve has done his best to restore the gas tank apron which was in pretty poor shape as most are. He has done well with it. The cowl is now black as was noted earlier in the thread. Progress has started on the rag top. Initial fitting is taking place. Steve wants this top finished before he applies the color coat on the car as he does not want to deal with scratches and dings caused by fitting one. It is interesting to note the differences between convertibles of the time period. The Chrysler products did not use anything more than canvas to keep water from flowing up and over the top of the side windows. This is in contrast to my Chevrolet Cabriolets which have a metal bar with a weather seal on it. I think the chevy was a little more water tight (maybe). I show a picture of a friends 1933 Chevy side seal assembly. I believe Chevy owners removed these bars in good weather and left them off until cold weather arrived. This also explains why many of these are lost and missing on these cars. It took a bit of explaining and a visit to AACA Club Member John Doerfler's nice 1933 Plymouth Convertible to show the upholstery man how this all fits. Keen's great pictures earlier in the thread shows this as well and was helpful to the upholstery man. Thanks, Chris
  21. Hi Steve, The photos show the correct orientation of the wood under tracks. In the photos the front is to right and the rear is to the left.
  22. A few months back this discussion came up on my "Paint Colors for 1933 Plymouth Convertible Coupe " thread. The response was that there is a "gasket" that goes between the top of the transmission and the cross member to keep water and dirt from getting up in here. For those that have not seen how this goes together the pictures show the shifter housing and fingers. It gets bolted to the cross member and than the fingers go down into the transmission to move the gears. The photos are for Plymouth cars but the configuration for your Dodge may be very similar. DodgeKCL replied indicating it was made from canvas duck material which I assume is wax or oil impregnated cloth in the shape of a donut. I am guessing here. Based on this I do not think a motor mounted correctly on good mounts would move or jerk much so as to allow the fingers to come out of the transmission. Chris
  23. Bob, Jason, and JayG, I have a 1933 Plymouth PD six cylinder that I want to work on. This engine is a little longer than the 4 banger. Same idea is to mount on stand using the clutch housing bolt holes that mount the transmission. I have a 1970's version of a Snap On engine stand it is robust but I worry like Rameses32 what do you think? Chris see my restoration thread under "Paint Colors 1933 Plymouth Convertible Coupe" for pictures of this car.
  24. Dave, Look closely at photo 2. You see a little metal strip that shows right above the tire. It is still connected with one bolt. This strip is about 3/4 inch wide and maybe 6-7 inches long. A piece of rubber is vulcanized to it and it rubs against the bottom of the transmission. That is called the "steady rest". And yes, it is a part that I need. I will send it off to the Antique Parts Cellar with my motor mounts to have the new rubber vulcanized to it. Send me a PM and we can discuss. Thanks!! Chris
  25. Ply33, We cleaned the inside of the top of the windshield frame and than poured primer paint down into it. In one of the photo's on page 9 of this thread you can just barely see the gray color inside the frame through the holes to mount the rearview mirror. These parts are plated but our hands covered them with grime and smudges as we positioned them on the car for a test fit and for the upholsterer to begin fitting the top. Erick, I use Speed and Sport Chrome Platers of Houston to do this work. The breakdown was as follows but prices will vary due to condition, pitting, broken parts etc. Side Posts 2 x 262.00, 524.00 Total (includes repair of a crack) Top Bar 225.00 Lower windshield frame 2 x 475.00, 950.00 Seal retainers 2 x 40.00, 80.00 Knobs 2 x 120.00, 240.00 Total about 2019.00 Craig and Kevin 713 921 1132 are my contacts. They do an excellent job and are known in the area for their work with pot metal and the repair of pot metal. I use the following criteria when looking at platers. Proven quality by looking at other VCCA or AACA members cars Do they break parts in the plating process? Do they lose parts? These folks at Speed and Sport have not lost or broken any of my Plymouth or Chevy parts. This is important especially for parts that are almost impossible to find. They are probably more expensive than most but you tend to get what you pay for. You also know you will get your parts back. As for platers in general the cost of this has gone through the roof as City, County, State and Federal environmental laws and regulations really impact this business. As for your parts, they are now experienced with 1933 Plymouth Convertible parts. Hope this is helpful, Chris
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