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Everything posted by 1935EB

  1. Howdy! At first I thought this was for tightening bolts on rear axle assembly. The collected opinion on this forum is that it allows for the rear end to move up and down on very rough roads without it damaging the floor pan. Welcome to the forum please post a few more pictures of your work on the 1935! Chris
  2. Scott, I hope my package tray front turns out as well as your's did. Yes, the cowl and firewall will be painted a glossy black. When you get a moment could you post a photo of your floor board where the seat tracks bolt to? This will help me locate the holes I need to drill for mine. Thanks, Chris
  3. Dave, These look like the ones for my 1933 Plymouth. They will be the same for 1933 and 1934 Plymouth and Dodge cars.
  4. I agree with the heat. Do not burn the head of that bolt off unless you have room to drive it out towards the outside of the frame and it does not look like you do. I can see a jack stand in the photo so I am thinking you have removed the "load" off the spring assembly. Can you move the spring assembly laterally side to side to maybe loosen things up a bit? If you do not have an acetylene rig you can buy a plumber's burns-o-matic down at your local hardware store. This will get it hot enough. There are some days when everything you touch on these cars goes "south" and you are right to take a breadth and tackle it later. Chris
  5. Working on the "dove tail" recievers. These are pretty worn. Does anyone know a source for the springs, and the cast recievers? I would think these are the same for Plymouth and Dodge. Thanks for your help. Chris
  6. On an earlier posting I requested some dimensions so that I could fabricate a new package tray assembly. A few folks have gotten back and the main ones are as follows. B is the back of the package tray front to the back of the package tray rear and this is 9 1/2 inches. E is the center to center of the ears that are a rest for the convertible top irons. There is a rubber pad that goes on these. this dimension is 43 1/2 inches. A is the outside of the front tip of the package tray front to the other side and this is 47 3/4 inches. Using a stretcher shrinker I have made the three main pieces. These will be welded together and than a 1/2 x 1/2 angle is to be welded to the top edge of this assembly. We did a rough fit of the original convertible top assembly. This is to be made on the car and Steve wants to have this done before he applies the finish coat of paint to avoid scratches and marring. The piece of wood is steam bent. The top irons on these Plymouths were painted glossy black with a chrome plated release handle. The 1933 Dodge cars had a chrome plated top iron assembly. According to Scott and the parts book, the 1934 Plymouth had a "white metal" coating. We were wondering if anyone knows what this is? You can see where the original package tray front was removed and why I am building a new one. I think the street rodders remove these package tray fronts to allow for the seats to go further back. Any input on the package tray front and the top iron colors is appreciated. Chris
  7. The progress being made is very impressive. Your target completion of early next year should be achievable. As to the Chrysler brakes isn't the Ammco 1750 the brake centering tool and drum micrometer that could be used on a Dodge? The Ply33 website shows how to use this on the Plymouths. They show up on Ebay from time to time. I have one but it is missing the piece that enables it to be used as a drum micrometer. It can be used to center the shoes. This restoration is a good inspiration to the rest of us. Chris
  8. John, This photo shows a door. The upper most indentation above the belt molding appears to be Vermillion on most, but not all, convertibles I have seen. Also the red rolls over onto the top of the door. The inside trim piece that holds the door upholstery panel will be Durode Gray. If anyone knows this is correct or incorrect please let me know soon. Chris
  9. Frank and Scott, Thanks for the kind words. It is getting there. On page 1 of this thread, post number 20, I show a "coupon" with three colors mixed and sprayed on. This is a PPG paint system. Single stage as this will not have a clear coat sprayed over it The color I am using is Durode Gray, actually a tan with a gray tint to it. This paint color uses a Vermillion (Red) pin stripe, wire wheels, and top of door insert. The PPG paint dealer researched the original offset numbers provided on the 33ply website, google 33 ply and you will see the website. It is managed and put together by the Plymouth Owners Club 33 technical director. Durode Gray (PPG IM 924) is Ford Fern Gray 33112 Vermillion is Valor Red 70402 I wanted to see the Chrysler light gray (a lighter tan) used with a cream pin stripe and wheels. This is PPG IM 680 now 23517 ©. Let me know if you need more. Thanks, Chris
  10. Thanks Tom, Dry fitting will take place in next few weeks. Steve has painted wheel wells, insides, top and bottom of floor pans. Body will be painted in next few weeks. Steve also wants the convertible top man to make the top and fit it before he paints it. I concur. Some questions. Does anyone have an idea where wood strips would be under the upholstery panels? I have two curved wood pieces and they go under the rain gutters in rumble area. I am interested in photos of folks rumble area upholstery panels to see where the wood strips might go. A coupe would be very similar to convertible coupe. Dodge cars would look the same. More pictures later. The firewall will be painted black. The inside of body should be dark gray primer but Steve sprayed it with color. It will not be seen any way. The pin stripe will be "vermillion" as well the wheels. Thanks and I hope you are enjoying the progress reports. Chris
  11. The underside of the floor pan and body interior is stripped, primed and painted. Some extra holes are not original Plymouth. Fenders and splash aprons are ready for "color". Steve has prepared the body and splash aprons for color and these photos will be posted tomorrow after Church. Hope you are getting something out of this thread.
  12. Guy's this is a test to see how Windows 8 works with this. I hope they show up. These headlight buckets are from Donald Axelrad. I think he has done an excellent job on these. You drill out the rivets that hold the steel mounting hardware and than attach the bucket using his screws that look like rivets when assembled.
  13. Mike and Scott, I do not know how to post this as a private e mail and than again there are probably others who have an interest in these dimensions. I have fabricated my own package tray front edge in threes pieces (additional pieces will be added as well). The dimensions requested below will enable me to weld the three pieces I have made together. Let me know if you have these dimensions. Thanks, Chris
  14. Thanks Scott, especially for the research. The bracket with the ball stud holds the little three piece bracket shown below. These I bought from NC Industries back in the 1990's. It works well but I can't tell you for sure if it is correct for Convertibles. It is available painted or chrome plated. It came with a piece of rubber as well. It would be nice if others with 1933 and 1934 Plymouths and Dodges would show pictures of their attachment brackets as this would show variation from year to year and model to model. The difference between clamp assemblies on closed bodies and convertibles may be just the black paint or chrome plated. Chris
  15. Hi Scott, Is it possible the windshield post that has the squared off reveal at the top is from a 1931-1932 Chevrolet Cabriolet? They used the same configuration, not the same parts. The method to fix the windshield up or down was just like John Doerfler's Plymouth PD. Chevy did not use a pin on a knob. What does your Dodge parts book show on the part numbers?
  16. DodgeKCL and Ply33, Here are pictures of 1933 PD transmission. The shift lever mounts to top of cross member and parts extend down into the top of the transmission. The engine could not move very much within the limits of the motor mounts given you would lose touch with the top of the transmission? How did they keep water out of the transmission case? Chris
  17. Scott, The barrel nut goes to the outside of the frame. The five holes drilled in the center of the top bar are 1/4 inch. The mirror bracket holes are 3/16 inch, the frame holes are 1/4 inch and accommodate the barrel nut (sleeve nut) side of the fastening hardware. I think 3/16 is actually Number 10 and is for the thread size so a Number 10 oval head screw chrome or nickel plated with a number 10 barrel nut. The OD on barrel nut is why the hole is 1/4 inch in the top bar. Hope I am making sense here. In my research the barrel nuts are available nickel plated from Restoration Specialties in Pennsylvania. Page 212 of their catalog. Bolts sold separately. Hope this helps Chris
  18. Scott, The dimension center to center is 2 and 3/4 inch. The hole size is close to 3/16 inch. Barrel nuts attach them to frame. John's PD convertible has a rubber bumper. I will try to get a photo of it. Even then it may not be correct so others with these cars should feel free to chime in. all 33 and 34 Plymouths, Dodges, Desotos and Small Chryslers shared these windshield frames including the convertible sedans. Chris
  19. Here are some additional photos. The windshield parts turned out nicely done by Speed and Sport Chrome Platers of Houston. They specialize in pot metal and can repair just about anything. My windshield frame uses a pin that moves within the knob to position windshield frame up and down. But why do it just one way??? Here is John's 1933 Plymouth PD convertible coupe. Hope you enjoy these. Chris
  20. Get your tubes and liners at the same time. One thing to think about is the orientation of the valve stem. I can not tell from the photo if yours go straight up to the center or if they are offset (stick out towards you). Be sure you know which ones you need. As for 17 inch tubes for my 1933 PD Plymouth the stems are straight up and are not available from any manufacturer that I know of. I will have to use a motorcycle tube that is straight up but the valve stem has a different size than we are used to seeing on the auto tubes. The offset valve stems for 17 inch are available given that Ford and Chevy use these. Hope this helps, Chris
  21. Dodge KCL and PLY33, I will take a picture of my 33 PD Transmission and shift tower. Below are some photo's of the 1933 PD front fenders. At least there are no rust outs, major tears, and dents. Having said this there is a lot of work to do to get these back into shape. I have begun work on the front panel of the package tray. More work this weekend before I can show the results. Chris
  22. Dave, Thanks for the great photo's! These are for a Dodge but they look just like the Plymouth. That small hole in the wood floorboard directly behind the hand brake lever plate looks like the access to adjusting the hand brake band? Chris
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