Pete K.

Pete, If you can't find new king pins, I've found it can work if you've got "OK" pins and you can put in new brass or bronze king pin bushings in the axle knuckles, oversize if needed, then ream them to your king pins.

Well, I have my spring out of the pressure valve and I see that it is a CONICAL spring. Since the body of the valve is conical, I imagine this is the original spring. I found a couple of springs in my collection so far, that seem to have the same pressure, but they aren't conical, also, I can't find my blasted gram scale. If you could see this place, you'd see why.

Mike, I don't think it would hurt too much if your oil pump cover gasket is up to .009". The thinner--the better though. I should have said before that not all auto parts store gasket paper is alike. I believe the black paper is the type you want, but I don't recall it being sold as thin as .003" - .004". Fish paper may be a better option.

Alright, alright,... I'll take my oil pump relief valve spring out tomorrow and measure it. I have a drawer full of scrapped springs of all types and sizes. Most go to old slot machines and jukeboxes from my business. I have a tone arm gram scale to measure the spring tension of mine & try to match up a new spring. I'm not going to pull my pump out since I just filled the crankcase and almost ready for first start up. I can't remember if I checked the damn spring between the vanes in my pump, but my son told me I had a tiny bit of oil pressure on dash gauge when I was furiously hand cranking engine with the plugs out to help prime the oil system before I start it. If you've got the old, broken VANE spring in your hand, it shouldn't be that hard to match up one very close to it. The gasket used in the oil pump is just the thickness of a SINGLE gasket cut from a sheet of gasket paper you can buy at any auto store. There is no where near enough oil pressure in a hundred years to "blow out" a gasket there in that little pump, especially if it's got a by-pass, (or pressure relief valve), like it does. The one and only important gauge on ANY engine start up is always the oil pressure gauge.

Steve, That is just maddening. I would take this matter up with E-bay, even though the jerk seller said "no returns'.His poor photo, a third party buying it for a present, etc... I think you may get some satisfaction if you ask. If you notice, his items say they are covered by E-bay Buyer Protection Plan. Good up to 45 days of purchase. Click on that and see what I'm talking about. I, for one will NEVER buy from these guys if they can't describe their parts well enough. Good luck,--- Pete.

Elmer, Is there any way the broken casting can be repaired? The method I was thinking of is to clean it really well, No traces of oil, wire wheel the mating part carefully to get down to shiny metal, then using a strong epoxy like Marine Tex. The drawback is the forces put on this part where it broke and perhaps even the clearance where there would be a bead of epoxy evident along the repair. I've checked all my books and have come up with zilch for an interchange.

The "h" rubber sits on the bottom glass, as you know, and the flange of the "h" is on the inside. Both glass panels tilt out only.

Yes Mike, The Ford Model A's have the same type generator third brush charging system as the '25 Dodge has. (and others). They do make a "voltage regulator/ cut-out relay" now for the A's, with modern electronics packed into an original looking Model A generator cut-out. The 3rd brush is now permanently set at a charge rate of no more than 15 Amps at full speed and there is no more un-regulated charging/ discharging as in the original system. Check it out at their website, I think it's "Fun projects.com". I think any 12 volt voltage regulator should work on our old Dodges, with a bit of experimentation. I'm getting one for the "A" pick up I own since I drive it a lot and need the headlights now after dusk. I may not re-vamp the '25 dodge though.

Jay, I have a $3.00 roll of cork gasket material in my shop that I cut all sorts of gaskets from, including two new cork gaskets for the Dodge valve covers. Just unroll the cork material, trace around cover with a ball point pen, cut it out with a pair of scissors. brush on a coat of "Weldwood contact cement" made by the DAP people, found in most hardware stores. Do both the cover edges and the cork, allow to set-up, then carefully place the cork gasket on the valve cover and it's permanent. I choose to cut out the center of the gasket so as I only have a thin cork strip cemented around the mating edge of the valve cover-to-block instead of a huge floppy piece of cork doing nothing to seal the cover to the block. I also found it better to leave the areas bare where the valve covers overlap each other and close to the heat tube. It's hard enough to get these in right without a gasket getting in the way. Jay, my '25 didn't have their gaskets on the covers either. The covers-- were originally, slightly dish shaped, so when the wing nut is tightened, it should in theory, flatten out evenly around the perimeter of the valve cover--- The rear cover overlapping the front one and finding it's way through the little groove at the top of the heat tube at the same time. ---GOOD LUCK.!!!

Don't you all just LOVE fiddling with those valve covers and heat tube???

Larry, your daughter-in-law is PRECIOUS! and TALENTED. Reminds me one birthday for my brother-in-law, who loved to borrow my tools and keep them for ages. I bought a sheet cake and with a tube of blue stuff, I wrote in very nice script, "Mike, where's my damn compressor?" He loved it, so he said. Got my comp. back the next day.---Thanks for your post Larry,--- Pete the ole' grump.

I agree with trp... Don't drill that lock!!! Soak the whole blasted thing in a pan of ATF and acetone,50/50 mix, OR your favorite penetrating oil. Have patience. Learn how to use a lock pick set you can buy on Flea-bay. Don't buy a cheap Chinese set, been there done that, never again! You'll use them many times in your life, usually for others I found out. You may have to hang the whole assembly somehow to soak the assembly in a pan and cover it up closely with saran wrap. The cam end may be rusty too, leading to harder work picking the tumblers and opening the lock.

At least I CAN add, the two sets of top clamps are made for a "touring car" compared to a "roadster" bodied car.

Well, It really got me to thinking--I've had old cars of many different types and years, the lifter/valve stem clearance can be varied. Sure enough, I removed the valve covers on the '25 just a bit ago, again, to VERIFY my readings of months ago. (why didn't I write them down??). The COLD clearance on this Dodge Brothers engine is .007" - .008" and one was .009".--COLD. This Dodge was driven hundreds, if not thousands of trouble-free miles by it's previous owner,(RIP), as a family member told me of his Dad's New England tours he took with this car. NO ONE has touched this engine since his death in '94. This is verified. It actually looks like the engine's never been apart. I now have such great compression using the hand crank since I did have some stuck valves back in April of this year at purchase. The compression leak down is well within limits. The car had not been even started since owner's death. Anyway, I'm always learning a few idiosyncrasies about this Dodge engine every day. Perhaps this valve train design somehow runs cooler? I see no valve issues now with my engine, so I'm keeping these valve clearances as I find them. When I get it running, which will be very soon I hope, I'll check the hot clearances.---Pete.

Jay, As you probably know, "The Book" says to adjust them when engine is warmed up, set to .005" - .006". I think you'd be OK if you set the clearance to .007" for intake and .008" for the exhaust valves when cold. Just remember to check clearances again when you've got it running.

Mike, I don't think the seals are in wrong. Just make sure the bearing retainer and locking tab is adjusted per instructions in the book. Most old cars, and new ones for that matter, the axle's are hard to turn by hand, very hard sometimes, with new, or even good seals installed. You are also spinning over the rear end gears too. When you put the wheel back on it will be far easier to turn that axle. I would start there and try that. You're right, the axle can only go in positively into the square hole. A bit of oil on the seals would be a good idea for lube during installation.

Mike, Are you positive it's only the new felt seals hanging up your axle? Could it be when you installed the axle, one or more of the seal lips, or edges got folded under? I've not had the time to pull my '25, (A-388850), back end apart yet, sorry. I do have a spare axle here and I certainly see what you mean by the "unmachined part" of the axle! It looks like it was forged on a blacksmith's anvil. If everything looks to be in place with the new seals, try bolting up your wheel and tire on drum, then try turning it. With the extra weight there, you may find it only to be a slight drag, which I think is OK.

Welcome!! You've found a very nice Dodge indeed! It looks super. There's plenty of knowledge here on this forum, try and locate an original or reprinted owner's manual for your new antique Dodge which will have a lot of basic info you'll need to have at a glance in book form. Please feel free to ask any questions you have, my '25 is a bit older but there are '30 dodge owners here!! P.S., We all love to see any and all photo's of your great Dodge coupe! Good luck!

Mike, I think you're only asking for trouble adapting filters to the Dodge. First of all, nothing can get in your oil except through the air intake and that's a little dust maybe, if you spend a lot of hours on dry dusty roads. Carbon from combustion will too, but with the right oil, it will settle out, or just change the oil when it darkens to your shade of choice. Air filters are mostly of the screen type, which will keep only large stones out. The paper and screen type filters don't have enough square inches of area for the amount of air needed for the proper mixture. They have been known to become saturated with fuel, which could lead to catastrophe. Just keep your splash pans in place. I've been driving antique auto's since 1971 with no factory filters, many miles on all types roads, tearing down those engines 20 years later to find NO wear from the non-use of filters!!!

I'm hoping somebody here on the Dodge Brothers Forum can verify this big old metal sun visor is an accessory Dodge part, or standard equipment for a particular Dodge Brothers car. There is no markings what so ever on the visor. I wanted to try this forum first before the AACA "What's-It?" heading, since almost all the very early parts I recently obtained are for Dodge cars, 1922- 1926. If you notice, the visor has clamp-on fittings, it looks to me that it must clamp to a post, as like an open car's windshield frame. Does the closed cars have some kind of a post this would clamp to? I can't picture this visor on my '25 tourer, and I don't believe I've ever seen a visor like this even ON an open car. I suppose it would work though! You can click on the photo's 3X to get a close up of the clamp part. Any input or photo's of this set-up "in action" would be very much appreciated!---Pete.

You've got a great start with that '39 Tater! Don't forget... things happen in THREE'S. You may have to make more room.

Do you know the cost?

Bob, I think most any 12 volt coil will work OK on the '25 Dodge engine. If you can see what the coil is rated for, You'll need 12,000 Volts at the plugs. As you know, the Dodge, then, didn't use a ballast resistor in their circuit. Some modern coils have a built in resistor, others don't. Most all coils (or the box they come in) have a sticker on them with their part number, voltage rating, etc... and a notice stating the coil does not or does have an internal resistor. The previous owner of my Dodge (RIP), by-passed the old Dodge coil and installed the Echlin IC-12, a neat install I guess, but he must have panicked at the parts store when he and the "young"(?) counter man saw the sticker on the coil stating it needed a ballast resistor, SO...he bought and installed one in series with the positive wire from the coil to the distributor. The Dodge WAS driven for many miles with this set-up as I can attest, but I feel there is no reason to have the ballast resistor in this car. Having been brought up on many early cars in my life, I don't recall ever seeing a ballast resistor until I had a '34 Ford once that had one from the factory. I still have two Model A Fords, NO resistors in their circuits. I am speculative on the ballast resistor's intended use. Some say they deliver a hotter spark. or maybe it's the dawn of factory car radios that called for them. We can start with Ohms Law; I=V/R.( I, being the Amps, V, the Volts and R, the resistance.) A resistor is exactly that, A device to resist voltage and transform it to heat.

The size of the coils Jason, were 1/4 smaller with finer gauge primary & secondary windings. The winding machine the man was using to do my other coils would be able to do an auto coil like the Dodge coil without much ado. This scenario with my rewinding man, in the Boston area quite a while ago, maybe 25 years ago, was an electric co. that was set up to do just that, rewinding coils, armatures, etc... One really needs a winding machine, or a lot of spare time to wind the 10,000 plus turns of primary wire on an auto ign. coil. The device was quite small, a table top sort of thing that had a counter set up to wind wire on a core, fed from a spool of the proper gauge wire. When it got to the end, he snipped it off and soldered it to the terminal it went to--Not brain surgery atall. For 200 bucks, I think one could procure a complete Dodge distributor unit on E-bay and possibly get a good coil in it.

I hear exactly what you say Mike. To all here on this post, my '25 came to me with the original coil by-passed and a newer type 12 V. coil installed on the firewall. I've come across a seemingly good orig. coil that will be tested out "for sure" when I get the car running. I've left the re-vamp modern coil in place, un-wired, "just in case". I'll never spend $200. on a rewound, new coil for the '25, It's just the principle with me, since I used to get impossible-to-find coils rewound for other type antique machines at a whopping cost of $12. and that's about the cost of a modern replacement automobile coil today that will work on the Dodge car.