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Jon: How can we check if a BB-1 will clear? I am running a Johnson on a 1924 Cadillac V63.

Carl — I don’t think I’m divulging too much to remind you that you have a nice original V63 touring already! And what about the wonderful 26 Cadillac you love driving around? I see there is some enthusiasm for big old cars chopped up into trucks. I have never felt it myself. Keep reading craigslist and buy something that is less — well — ugly. Happy driving, all. By the way, Carl, I am counting on you to stay healthy and keep your V63. I still like checking it for authenticity now and again. In a few years I am going to retire and restore mine. I won’t be doing it for the money; in fact I will be doing it against the money. I have adopted the car, and it is now family, so there you have it.

Thank you. I should have thought to look in the Book of Information. As for the doors flaps — I bought the car restored, and the upholsterer, I think, was proud of doing fancy work. Perhaps a bit too fancy to be correct. But I will leave it because it looks nice. I am much more bothered by the vinyl upholstery on my 1924 Cadillac. The pattern is right but the material is wrong. Someday I may address that. Thats again for your help.

Thank you. I will look forward to the info. In the mean time I ran new black wire all the way from the switch to underneath the dash, so the horn is working again. I think the klaxon is an important safety feature given the weak brakes. I will be interested in seeing the correct path for the wires. When I took the upholstery off the door, I expected to see some wood. But I don’t think there is any. What about the body? Is there wood under the metal. Regards, Mike Barnes

My 1915 touring has the horn switch on the driver side door. Very quaint, but it quit working. I suspect the wires just got wrecked by being rubbed by the hinge. Please look at the pics. I am wondering — how should the wires be running to avoid wear? Many thanks, Mike Barnes, Vancouver

Could somebody post a link to Guest’s Gearvendors discussion, apparently on the AACA site somewhere? Many thanks, Mike Barnes

Recently I moved my forum from Yahoo to groups.io. Details below of its purpose. Here is the website if you want to check it out and request membership: https://groups.io/g/EarlyV8Cadillac. ”A group for owners and folks interested in Cadillac cars fromd 1915 till the late 1920s. Nineteen-fifteen marked the introduction of the V8 engine in Cadillacs, and the late 1920s cars are popular enough to find lots of online support already. This group addresses a need for sharing information and resources for the under-appreciated ‘nickel-era’ cars. You don’t need to be an owner to join. All are welcome.” Cheers, Mike Barnes, Vancouver

Recently I moved my forum from Yahoo to groups.io. Details below of its purpose. Here is the website if you want to check it out and request membership: https://groups.io/g/EarlyV8Cadillac. “A group for owners and folks interested in Cadillac cars from 1915 till the late 1920s. Nineteen-fifteen marked the introduction of the V8 engine in Cadillacs, and the late 1920s cars are popular enough to find lots of online support already. This group addresses a need for sharing information and resources for the under-appreciated "nickel-era" cars. You don't need to be an owner to join! All are welcome.” The AACA forums are great, of course. I won’t bother stating my favorites (well, this is one of them). Sometimes a hubcap rolls away — that is, the subject gets changed. Sometimes a wheel falls right off — and somebody sounds unhappy. Fortunately, these disasters of the road are rare.

Like others, I lost the correct position of the enrichener pin when I took carb apart and put it back together. But I found this procedure quite easy: Remove the arm that connects to the choke cable. That way, you can turn the “choke” adjustment knob by hand. Have somebody crank the engine. Starting in the richest position (knob turned all the way counter-clockwise, very slowly turn the knob clockwise. When the engine starts, you are not far off the correct choke position. Perhaps you are a bit rich. Turn now one way, now the other, to find the best engine running. When satisfied, put the choke cable adjustment arm back on the shaft. Do it such that the adjusting click screw on the carb is around half way. That way you can still adjust leaner or richer.

For my 1915 touring car -- but not a 1915 streering box! Those weren't adjustable; I'd like a slightly newer box with capability of removing slack. Thanks, Mike Vancouver

For early touring car. Mine has 1915, I want a box slightly newer with capability of removing slack. Thanks, Mike, Vancouver

Turns out I have the 1915 steering box, which is pretty unadjustable. Does anybody have a slightly newer box (adjustable) they would like to sell? Thanks, Mike Barnes, Vancouver

It is much much closer to the illustration supplied by 22touring. I am on holiday with limited internet and away from car. I want to thank everybody very much for support. Will be puzzling over it in a week or so! Cheers, Mike in Canada

There is a whole wheel, but I only photographed a bit at the top right. Any ideas about that cam? Just holding the wheel in place? Your suspicion may be right that this is a plain bushing or no bushing. I guess the steering box will have to come right off to check. Or I can put up with the slack a while longer. Thanks, Mike

I am trying to take out slack between the worm and the worm wheel. Later cars and later manuals show that a narrow wrench was inserted on the outside (body side) of the steering box to turn the eccentric bearing belonging to the worm wheel. But I don't think my car is like that. There is not enough bearing sticking out to grab with anything, and it doesn't seem hex anyway. When I remove the cover (engine side) there is this cam-shaped thing seemingly acting as the bearing for the worm wheel. Should that be turned? I don't know what I would grab it with, given that there is little space between engine and box. Also, I don't see where I am to loosen a lock before twisting. Second photo is a 1916 manual (my earliest). My steering box is somewhat different. It looks like one single cast box housing the worm all the way to the steering lever. An early design? Maybe not even Dodge? If I had the answers, I would not be posting here. Help and advice appreciated! Mike Barnes, Vancouver, Canada

Yahoo, not Youtube ! Silly mistake on my part. M. Barnes

Promotional materials do come up on Ebay. I bought a booklet similar to yours for my V63 Cadillac. Well produced but smaller: around 8 inches wide by 6.5 inches deep. It is from 1925, so shows the V63B series with nickel radiators. Cadillac also turned out a fun little book called "Coach work old and new . . . from Biblical times to the refined motor cars of to-day" This is a rather grand claim for a booklet of only 23 pages. Mike Barnes

Dear 29Caddy: I think the car looks terrific, and while I can't shed light on your questions, I can recommend you join the EarlyV8Cadillac forum, which I moderate through Youtube. Find the site, ask to join, and I will approve your membership right away. We have around 75 members now, with cars (or interest) in the year range from 1915 to around 1929. Cheers, M. Barnes, Vancouver, B.C., Canada

I joined the Vintage Car Club of Canada -- which really only exists in my province; other provinces have their own clubs, despite the national-sounding title. Most members are interested in newer cars — agreed — but our club has an Antique Chapter. I shouldn't really be allowed in with my car, since the cut-off is around 1916 (Horseless Carriage Club of America allows cars made up to the last day of 1915). However, my 1924 car tours well with the brass-era beauties. It is rather slow and low-geared (compared to the cars of the later 20s and onwards). This is where my interest lies; the club is smallish & familial, full of personalities and expertise. Everybody has an opinion, let that much be said! H-H: you might consider looking for an antique chapter also. They will probably be flexible enough to allow a car from the nickel-era. And you will kill the brass-era cars on hills (or if you are carrying passengers). But of course we don't gloat. Happy hunting; happy driving, Mike Barnes, Vancouver

As for values, I really only watch Cadillacs on Ebay. Two V-63s, both closed, both similar to the car under discussion here, sold for under $15,000 (one may not have sold, but that was as high as the offers). They were unrestored cars, driveable. After selling for around $14,000, one of them then showed up repeatedly on Ebay again, and the new owner wanted around $40,000, claiming the car was too good an original to merit restoration. I don't believe he ever sold in that range. He may still have the car, but since he wants to triple his money, I don't know if he is worth approaching. You might want to join an antique car club or two in your part of the world. This hobby is an aging one: bargains do present themselves, and in the mean time you will have a very good time meeting folks with a L-O-N-G perspective on things and irreplaceable knowledge. Thanks for joining the EarlyV8Cadillac forum! Mike Barnes, Vancouver, B.C., Canada

Dear H-H, Carl may have mentioned to you here that there is a Yahoo group for the early V8 Cadillacs; he is a member, and I am the moderator. Here is the link: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/EarlyV8Cadillac/info If you wish to join, you will need a Yahoo account (easy and free), click on the Join Group button, and I will approve the rest. Good luck in your car searches. A price in the 30s for a closed Cadillac from the early 20s seems steep to me. These cars do not sell promptly; there are not many prospective buyers. In that price range you might get yourself a touring car some day from a private seller. Regards, Mike Barnes, Vancouver, B.C., Canada EarlyV8Cadillac@yahoogroups.com moderator

Around a year ago on several forums a 1920s era Rolls Royce touring car showed up in photos. Perhaps it was a winner at one of the prestigious judging events. Anyhow, I am only interested in one detail of the car: the top, because though black, it had a strip of blue running from front to back along the sides. I thought it was a nice touch. As I need to have a top made for a 1920s touring car of my own, I'd like to see details of that RR top to help in the making of mine. Thanks to anybody who can come up with a photo or two!

Thank you, Ivan. I never need much excuse to buy a book, and the least expensive copy for sale online is apparently in VG condition. On its way. Regards, Mike Barnes

Would you gentlemen mind providing some more info why one sort of engine suits overdrive better? There has been a V-63 Cadillac for sale for some time in the eastern USA boasting Mitchell overdrive; and a company called Gear Vendors is happy to install overdrives in quite an assortment of cars. Thanks, Michael Barnes, Vancouver, B.C. earlyV8Cadillac list owner

These were on Cadillacs of the era, perhaps other cars also. They screw onto a shaft. One controls choke, the other high beam. Thanks, Mike Barnes, Vancouver, B.C., Canada Check out EarlyV8Cadillacs@yahoogroups.com!